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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW! |
| View Poll Results: Should I: | |||
| Fix it |
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37 | 75.51% |
| Trade it |
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3 | 6.12% |
| Sell it |
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9 | 18.37% |
| Voters: 49. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Posts: 87
My Ride: 2001 BMW 330Ci 5sp
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Ugh, I'm thiiiiiiiis close to trading my baby in on a used Mazda3. Crazy, I know. But here is the breakdown:
2001 BMW 330Ci 5MT Steel Gray, red leather, sport package, xenons 130,000 miles Has (recently fixed): - Front Control Arms/CABs (10k miles ago) - Complete cooling system overhaul (7k miles ago, see http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=626388) - Final stage resistor (climate control works great) - alternator (15k ago, reman) Needs: - Tires (4) - Power Steering pump/hoses (still working, but leaky and sort of whistles) - Voltage Regulator (alternator replaced recently, but the voltage regulator is not adequate so it needs to be swapped for a Bosch item) - Something on the intake. I replaced the boots after finding a tear, but it has not fixed my occasional lean code, and now it is idling quite rough. I suspect it needs a new or cleaned ICV. - Oil level sensor (has been out since I bought it, just 10 seconds or so of a yellow warning light on startup) SES light is ON. Grr. I've been driving around and trying to diagnose this for a while. It seems that over 70 deg F, the SES light turns itself off. It's been colder recently, and here are the codes: P0313 P0300 P1342 P1351 P1349 P1345 P1347 P0171 P0174 P0313 pending P0300 pending I mean in the grand scheme of things, it's probably a few hundred in parts away from being just fine, plus another $600 or whatever for tires. I'm about to put on the snow tires anyway, so till April or whatever I actually don't need the tires. It's the unknown that's killing me. Could my SES be related to worn VANOS seals? I think I could do that fix, but it's another level of complexity. Maybe camshaft/crankshaft position sensors would need to be replaced too. Mass air flow maybe? I think the ignition coils are ok because the problem is on all cylinders. I don't want to drop $500 or $1000 on parts and tires if something else is about to go wrong anyway. So the Mazda3 is a 2005 5-door hatch, in crazy lava orange. 5 speed, 's' trim, with the 2.3L engine. It's clean, serviced, with new tires an 52,000 mi on the clock. Black cloth interior, sporty red trim. I can buy it at $11k. The BMW is worth about $5800 as a trade with the SES light on and the rough idle, or $6300 if everything is working. Decision points:
So, what do you folks think? Fix or trade? ![]() Or sell? Heck, if I'm going to trade it for $6k, I might as well offer it here for, lets see, considering the sales tax credit and the extra hassle, $7300. PM me. KBB private party value is $8200 in good condition, $7300 in fair condition. It's a steal. Hmm, but I do like the thing.
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#2 |
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The De46vil's Army
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you'll regret it if you get rid of it, that 3 is gonna feels sloppier than courtney loves axe wound.
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Dude, i think the answer is obv. your problems arent that bad. To decide, go drive a mazda and see if you can change. Im guessing no.
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#4 |
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Registered User
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mazda 3 feels like sh!t compared to the e46.
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#5 |
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Registered User
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My friend bought a Mazda3 when his other car got stolen... he loves it. That being said, you have to know what opinion you are going to get posting this on a BMW board... and that includes me. BMW all the way.
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#6 |
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Registered User
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at least get a speed3.
your BMW is ****ed. i've been where you've been before and i took out the cars from my garage, borrowed jackstands. oiled my bearings on my toolbox. and got to ****ing work. now its been running great ever since. sounds like you wouldn't be in this situation if you would have just fixed things when they come and not let them pile up. i've learned my lesson. it took a week of constant work to fix all the **** wrong with my car. either way, sorry to bust your balls, just get a speed3.
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#7 |
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Registered User
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yea if your gonna get a mazda, at least get a speed3.
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#8 | |
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Sponsor
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Quote:
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David ///M | eas
david@europeanautosource.com web: www.europeanautosource.com tel 866.669.0705 x33 | ca: 714.369.8524 Blog | YouTube | facebook | twitter | flickr |
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#9 |
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Just Nuts
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No don't keep the BMW because you don't know how or don't want to fix your car in the right way. Your cooling system was fine but you went and 'fixed' it. The other parts of you car were not fine, but you did nothing for them. Maybe if you keep swapping cars, you will eventually find a used car that is perfect. Although I don't see the chance of that being high since people would generally keep the cars if those are perfect.
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#10 |
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Registered User
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im guessing a speed3 is out of the price range? i would keep the beemer, but learn to work on your car....love it and it will love you....
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-Maksim DIY: How to Tackle Electronics Projects Need Quality Brakes, Headers, Meyle Products? BimmerBrakes has it! |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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i dont know i just arrived from the world of japanese cars (Subaru STIs) and its nice to be driving something solid, quiet and with a soul
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As the car gets less expensive, the inevitable ghetto-ization of what used to be a carefully-engineered brand follows
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#12 |
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Registered User
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I think you just need to find a car you can easily afford. BMWs are expensive to keep especially at 130,000. You have to realize that a lot of what goes wrong, especially what you're talking about, happens to other cars too. Suspension overhauls, coolant leaks, new tires etc. It is just a cost of ownership, and you have to factor that into the initial price of the car. If the Mazda is going to break the bank too, then look even lower. I don't see why you are hesitating to repair your car, yet willing to shell out a couple thousand after trade in for another car. The Mazda is going to have some high priced repairs as well, but they will be cheaper in general because the components are cheaper. Regardless, you will be stepping into another used car that will have repairs coming soon. When buying a used car, always ask yourself why the other person is getting rid of it...
If you are driving around with 11 SES codes and are running on worn tires, it sounds like the car has become out of your price range and you should just get rid of it. Our cars do interesting things for even small issues, so the codes could be just one relatively inexpensive part, but I don't think the car is just a few $100 away from repair especially considering the other problems you are having. The E46 can be a great car, but not if you are constantly worrying about breaking down. Last edited by JK1150; 10-13-2009 at 07:17 PM. |
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#13 | |
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Registered User
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e46s also come standard with these, that mazdas do not:
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#14 |
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Registered User
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not for me..god damn it
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#15 |
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Registered User
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Mazda 3's are terrible cars if you want something that you do more than just drive to the shops and back in.
PS, if you want to tell me i'm wrong, at least be someone whos driven one before. My girlfriend owns an 08 Mazda 3 SP23 and its just.. I can't stand it. Its a housewifes car.
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- Matt
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#16 | |
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Sponsor
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Old Saybrook, CT
Posts: 728
My Ride: 2000 E39 / 2011 M3
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Quote:
Also, for a car with 130K on the clock, those issues you are talking about is nothing much at all.
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#17 | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Posts: 87
My Ride: 2001 BMW 330Ci 5sp
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Um, no actually, he expansion tank cracked, letting out all my fluid and leaving me stranded. I replaced the other stuff because it was at that mileage, I was going to be in there anyway, and Tischer has a nice kit.
Quote:
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#18 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Posts: 87
My Ride: 2001 BMW 330Ci 5sp
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It's not a question of affording it, I'm not going bankrupt. It's a question of value. I have other things to spend my money on. A mid-to-high mileage Mazda3 will probably cost something like $1500 less per year over the next few years when fuel and maintenance costs are factored in. The question is whether the BMW is $125 per month better than the Mazda.
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#19 |
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Registered User
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I have a 2005 Mazda 3 hatch w/ the 2.3 and a 2004 330 convertible. Of course the 330 is a much better ride, faster, handles better, brakes better and looks better. Still, the Mazda handles great, not as tight as the 330 but still really good. With good tires it really sticks to the road. Mazda engine revs freely, torque steer is not really an issue. The E46 is great off the line. The 3 is not so hot off the line but accelerates decently once the revs hit 3k. I like the Mazda. I love the BMW. Hope this helps.
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#20 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Posts: 87
My Ride: 2001 BMW 330Ci 5sp
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vs.
Yea, I guess it seem like I was letting things pile up. I don't really see it that way. I've been letting maintenance things pile up a little because I'm in the back of my head thinking about trading it in on something else. The key is to get your wear items to all wear out at once, and trade it. Otherwise you're the moron who trades a car with new tires. What I've done is create a decision point, that I was thinking would hit around February, right about when my PA inspection is due. I've been rotating my winter tires and they have about one more season in them. Unfortunately, the intake/lean/SES issues that cropped up in the last month have sort of pushed my decision point forward. I either fix it all now and commit to keeping the car another two years or trade it in.
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| Tags |
| 330ci, fix, philadelphia, sell, trade |
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