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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 11-26-2009, 04:03 PM   #61
xi_ter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy_bee View Post
I have the earlier Iphone, 2nd gen 3G version, not the S. Can I do voice dailing with that?

thanks in advance, great thread
There are voice dial apps for $4 and less, but by the time you run them and voice dial, it is easier to use the contacts touch screen to call. How accurate the voice recognition on these programs is questionable since they all seem to get 3 stars out of 5.
The GS iPhone is much easier to activate the voice dialing...push the round button for 3 seconds and voice dialing is active. Possible to activate without diverting the eyes from the road and it's an Apple app.

Using the system for a month, I'd say the biggest benefit is that the pairing "chirp" tells you that you have your cell in your pocket and you haven't forgotten it.
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Old 12-04-2009, 09:50 PM   #62
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Steve325 - any updates? You never showed pics or install details. Dooes the kit you used (not the connects2 kit right?) work well/the same?

Also, I know it does a beep when you start the car to indicate pairing. What if your radio/headunit is turned off? Will it still beep and show "phone" as it pairs then go back into off mode? What if the headunit is off and a call comes in? How does it behave then?

Thanks!
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Old 12-04-2009, 10:49 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by ZZen330 View Post
Steve325 - any updates? You never showed pics or install details. Dooes the kit you used (not the connects2 kit right?) work well/the same?

Also, I know it does a beep when you start the car to indicate pairing. What if your radio/headunit is turned off? Will it still beep and show "phone" as it pairs then go back into off mode? What if the headunit is off and a call comes in? How does it behave then?

Thanks!
Very sorry - I was debugging issue that ended up being my BB pearl - not the Parrot kit, so I waited to update things until I was sure.

Also, there are two threads going on & I ended up posting in the other one yesterday:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...=#post10978309

Yes I installed the quickconnect product that came with a SW101C from www.audicom.it

Only difference I can tell from the connect2 interface is mine does not use the R/T button - only the Phone button.

That means to disconnect a call I have to push & hold the phone button for two seconds. It's a little annoying & the connect2 sounds nicer.

Here is the Op Manual for the SW101C:

http://audicom.it/storeimgs/BMW%20USO%20ENG.pdf

Yes I get the beep when the bluetooth connects.

The system works the same whether the radio is on or off. When the Parrot connects or a call comes in, it 'steals' the front speakers from the radio (and turns the back speakers off). The Parrot has a built in amp & drives the speakers on its own whether the HU is on or not. I hope the way I said that makes sense.

I don't get the PHONE message displayed on the HU. I'm not sure if its because my USA-SPec is constantly updating the display or not. I will have to try it with just the radio on, but I don't think I get the message at all.

delmarco, can you comment on this with the connect2?

Last edited by steve.325i; 12-04-2009 at 10:55 PM. Reason: fixed link
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Old 12-05-2009, 03:21 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by steve.325i View Post
I don't get the PHONE message displayed on the HU. I'm not sure if its because my USA-SPec is constantly updating the display or not. I will have to try it with just the radio on, but I don't think I get the message at all.

delmarco, can you comment on this with the connect2?
On my car with the Dension icelink (very old....I know..), it'll display "phone / wait" during a call. I know the Dension is always updating the display too. cuz when I turn HU off (while its playing form the iPod), it'll still display the artist / song from the ipod on the HU instead of just showing the time.
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Old 12-05-2009, 03:19 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by steve.325i View Post
The system works the same whether the radio is on or off. When the Parrot connects or a call comes in, it 'steals' the front speakers from the radio (and turns the back speakers off). The Parrot has a built in amp & drives the speakers on its own whether the HU is on or not. I hope the way I said that makes sense.
Do you have H/K? Do non-nav equipped cars have the amp in the trunk?

In my 2005 with Nav, connects2, and CK3000, I get a lot of noise thru the system when the bluetooth is activated and during a call. Pops, clicks when it comes on or shuts off, and alternator whine and other noises thru the audio system during the call.

I'm pretty sure I understand why... the CK3000 has a built-in amp and seems to me, it's sending an amplified signal to the sound system that isn't expecting it. But, what's perplexing is, I believe the non-navi systems are configured the same way... with a radio/display up front, amp in the trunk. The only difference with the nav is, the radio module is in the trunk and uses the flat pin connector. All my equipment is installed in the trunk and I used a 1/8" male to female extension cable to route the mic to the stock location.

I corresponded with a vendor about the connects2 and they confirmed I ordered the right one. Their solution was to run an extension cable from the connects2 in the trunk to the ck3000 up front, but I decided to run an extension for the mic instead... easier and $5 from Radio shack.

I'm thinking about a line output converter between the ck3000's amplified signal and the inputs to the stock amp so I can adjust the output from the ck3000 to match what the amp is expecting.

Anyone with H/K and/or Nav do this upgrade yet?
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Old 12-05-2009, 05:17 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvr826 View Post
Do you have H/K? Do non-nav equipped cars have the amp in the trunk?

In my 2005 with Nav, connects2, and CK3000, I get a lot of noise thru the system when the bluetooth is activated and during a call. Pops, clicks when it comes on or shuts off, and alternator whine and other noises thru the audio system during the call.

I'm pretty sure I understand why... the CK3000 has a built-in amp and seems to me, it's sending an amplified signal to the sound system that isn't expecting it. But, what's perplexing is, I believe the non-navi systems are configured the same way... with a radio/display up front, amp in the trunk. The only difference with the nav is, the radio module is in the trunk and uses the flat pin connector. All my equipment is installed in the trunk and I used a 1/8" male to female extension cable to route the mic to the stock location.

I corresponded with a vendor about the connects2 and they confirmed I ordered the right one. Their solution was to run an extension cable from the connects2 in the trunk to the ck3000 up front, but I decided to run an extension for the mic instead... easier and $5 from Radio shack.

I'm thinking about a line output converter between the ck3000's amplified signal and the inputs to the stock amp so I can adjust the output from the ck3000 to match what the amp is expecting.

Anyone with H/K and/or Nav do this upgrade yet?
I have HK and No Nav my system is fine all around.
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Old 12-05-2009, 09:14 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by sycE46 View Post
On my car with the Dension icelink (very old....I know..), it'll display "phone / wait" during a call. I know the Dension is always updating the display too. cuz when I turn HU off (while its playing form the iPod), it'll still display the artist / song from the ipod on the HU instead of just showing the time.
Hmmm, I wonder if the connect2 is actually sending the text "phone/wait" to the HU. I don't think they mention this in the Audicom documentation. I will check.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jvr826 View Post
Do you have H/K? Do non-nav equipped cars have the amp in the trunk?
Nope, I have a pretty basic system:

Business CD HU - 2003 Alpine CD53
no trunk amp
no nav
USA-Spec PA12-BMW on trunk i/f
Parrot CK3000 with audicom SW101C steering wheel i/f

Oh, I upgraded all four speakers to energy ENC650X ... I think I am happy without a sub now.
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:42 PM   #68
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I have HK and No Nav my system is fine all around.
Great! So, I kinda have H/K. Well, the amp is no longer in the car and I have bypassed it completely. So if it works with your amplified system, it should work with mine.

I believe the connects2 must have resistors in place to tone down the CK3000's output because it is in fact amplified... I confirmed that today by connecting a speaker to the two pins on the blue box directly, without all that relay harness BS that comes with it. I've read the entire Internet, yeah I'm tired, and the CK3100 has both amplified and low level outputs on it, the CK3000 only has amplified outputs.

So, my issue is one of two things: a grounding problem due to the missing H/K amplifier in my car, or, a combination of that plus I may need to introduce a line output converter between the CK3000 and Connects2, or between the Connects2 and the radio harness. If you don't have one, I shouldn't need one either.

So, I am about $170 into this at this point and can return the stuff I bought IF I don't futz up the harnesses, but my curiousity is getting the better of me and I need to figure this out. There's a tool on a parrot forum where I posted about this issue who carried the conversation all the way to "oh yeah, I know what the problem is... it's that 40 pin connector and the way the h/k system is configured." but will not tell me how he figured it out. He says "I spent days of aggravation figuring that out, I don't see why I should give the solution for free." He's a retailer of car kits, so I offered to buy his solution and of course he hasn't responded with what that is.

If I figure it out, I will post the solution for the world to see. F that limey bastard!
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:32 PM   #69
steve.325i
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Originally Posted by jvr826 View Post
Great! So, I kinda have H/K. Well, the amp is no longer in the car and I have bypassed it completely. So if it works with your amplified system, it should work with mine.

I believe the connects2 must have resistors in place to tone down the CK3000's output because it is in fact amplified... I confirmed that today by connecting a speaker to the two pins on the blue box directly, without all that relay harness BS that comes with it. I've read the entire Internet, yeah I'm tired, and the CK3100 has both amplified and low level outputs on it, the CK3000 only has amplified outputs.

So, my issue is one of two things: a grounding problem due to the missing H/K amplifier in my car, or, a combination of that plus I may need to introduce a line output converter between the CK3000 and Connects2, or between the Connects2 and the radio harness. If you don't have one, I shouldn't need one either.

So, I am about $170 into this at this point and can return the stuff I bought IF I don't futz up the harnesses, but my curiousity is getting the better of me and I need to figure this out. There's a tool on a parrot forum where I posted about this issue who carried the conversation all the way to "oh yeah, I know what the problem is... it's that 40 pin connector and the way the h/k system is configured." but will not tell me how he figured it out. He says "I spent days of aggravation figuring that out, I don't see why I should give the solution for free." He's a retailer of car kits, so I offered to buy his solution and of course he hasn't responded with what that is.

If I figure it out, I will post the solution for the world to see. F that limey bastard!
That really sucks. Somebody says they have a solution to your problem & wont tell you?!? Yup, that would piss me off too.

I can't really help you because I'm not using the connect2 box. The audicom SW101C & quickconnect cable still used the supplied cable with the CK3000 that does the speaker mux'ing. With the CK3000 relay box I don't get any popping when it switches over. I wonder if the MUTE wire into the radio is actually used and maybe there is a disconnect in your case.

The alternator whine during a call may be an easier symptom to diagnose first and the solution may take care of both problems. I agree with you. I would ensure a solid ground as a first step. Maybe it is trivial as a bent ground pin on your radio interface. IMO you should not need any filtering on the 12DC supply.

You know, I think I would swap it out with another unit before mucking with it any further. That will at least confirm if it is your vehicle or the parrot/connect2.
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:38 PM   #70
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You know, I think I would swap it out with another unit before mucking with it any further. That will at least confirm if it is your vehicle or the parrot/connect2.
Yeah, I'd love to do that, but I had to order it from the U fn K. The Connects2 is not available in the US for some reason.

I do have a friend with an unmolested M3 with the same sound system/navi setup. Maybe I can convince him to let me connect all this crap in his car and see if it works without issue. If so, then I guess I know where my problem lies.
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:44 PM   #71
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Yeah, I'd love to do that, but I had to order it from the U fn K. The Connects2 is not available in the US for some reason.

I do have a friend with an unmolested M3 with the same sound system/navi setup. Maybe I can convince him to let me connect all this crap in his car and see if it works without issue. If so, then I guess I know where my problem lies.
When I was debugging my system I disconnected the SW101C steering wheel controller to rule that out. Then I "borrowed" a CK3000 from futureshop (I'm in Canada) to rule that out as well.

Yup, I would pick the "call a friend" option.
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Old 12-19-2009, 01:06 PM   #72
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I just got my Connects2 and the parrot CK3000 in the mail. It took a while getting the Connects2 (16 days from order), but I'm happy it finally arrived.

I am not doing the install myself. Primarily because I have a broken neck. Since I am paying to have it installed, can someone recommend an iphone 3gs cradle that I should have installed at the same time? Preferably one that also charges at the same time.

The 2010 335d's cigarette power points are in the arm rest and under the glove compartment. Neither are easy to use.
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Old 12-19-2009, 02:43 PM   #73
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Kelor - Umm, I'm not sure the Connects2 kit will work with a 2010 335....which model of connects2 kit did you get?
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Old 12-20-2009, 06:42 PM   #74
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Kelor - Umm, I'm not sure the Connects2 kit will work with a 2010 335....which model of connects2 kit did you get?
I got the CTPPAR006. Sure hope it does.

Along with that assumption, thoughts on an iphone 3gs cradle?
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Old 12-20-2009, 07:33 PM   #75
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I got the CTPPAR006. Sure hope it does.

Along with that assumption, thoughts on an iphone 3gs cradle?
It looks like its supposed too ... this is from:
http://www.incarexpress.co.uk/view_p...rtno=CTPPAR006

*******>********>********>
Manufacturer: Connects2
Part Number: CTPPAR006
Warranty: 12 Months


Weight: 500 g.
Fitment: BMW

Additional Information


For Parrot CK3000Evolution For use with:-
  • 1 Series (With Business/Professional 40pin MOST - CAN-Bus)
  • 3 Series (With Business/Professional 40pin MOST - CAN-Bus)
  • 5 Series (With Business/Professional 40pin MOST - CAN-Bus)
  • 6 Series (With Business/Professional 40pin MOST - CAN-Bus)
  • 7 Series (With Business/Professional 40pin MOST - CAN-Bus)
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Old 12-23-2009, 05:30 PM   #76
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Well now I'm concerned. The guy that BMW recommended told me that the install will take roughly 2 1/2 hours @ $120/hour.

I know this appears to be a simple do it yourself project, but I just don't have the ability right now. Thoughts?
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Old 12-23-2009, 09:15 PM   #77
steve.325i
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Well now I'm concerned. The guy that BMW recommended told me that the install will take roughly 2 1/2 hours @ $120/hour.

I know this appears to be a simple do it yourself project, but I just don't have the ability right now. Thoughts?
You know, it's pretty quick when you are scrolling through the pics, but when it comes down to implementing it you are bound to get caught on one or more steps. It took me an hour and a half just to get my vents out

Even it all thing go without a hitch, I beleive it would take 1.5 hours ++ if you want a clean install with all the wires tie-wrapped in place, the modules secured so they wont rattle, etc, etc, then add 15 minutes (at least) at the end making sure everything works.

I think 2.5 hours is reasonable ... if the guy promises a clean install. I would acutally try to lock him down to a fixed price. Try offering $250 flat rate & see where it goes.
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Old 01-19-2010, 03:39 PM   #78
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Guys, please help. I got the CTPPAR007 with parrot ck3000 and installed it on my X5 which seems to be supported. I got it working but I got the volume too low to be usable while driving and the R/T does not end the call.
Somebody mentioned that Parrot comes with an audio amplifier built in which for some reason it is not good enough in mine or something is not done properly. The volume controls work though.
I guess none of you had problems with the volume? Can somebody explain how the CTPPAR007 works? Do you know if the speakers are connected directly to the parrot by the CTPPAR007 or it goes through the car/HU amplifier. I thought of adding an additional amplifier but what are the wires in the CTPPAR007 that I can cut/tap into?
I just assume that CTPPAR007, when in phone mode switches the speakers from the HU to the parrot amplifier. Is that the case?
My car is equipped with DSP. Would this be the problem? thanks.
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:38 PM   #79
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Guys, please help. I got the CTPPAR007 with parrot ck3000 and installed it on my X5 which seems to be supported. I got it working but I got the volume too low to be usable while driving and the R/T does not end the call.
Somebody mentioned that Parrot comes with an audio amplifier built in which for some reason it is not good enough in mine or something is not done properly. The volume controls work though.
I guess none of you had problems with the volume? Can somebody explain how the CTPPAR007 works? Do you know if the speakers are connected directly to the parrot by the CTPPAR007 or it goes through the car/HU amplifier. I thought of adding an additional amplifier but what are the wires in the CTPPAR007 that I can cut/tap into?
I just assume that CTPPAR007, when in phone mode switches the speakers from the HU to the parrot amplifier. Is that the case?
My car is equipped with DSP. Would this be the problem? thanks.
There is volume control on the radio, the Parrot and on the cell phone. Try to put all of them at max and adjust from there. R/T seems to end voice calls immediately but there is a lag disconnecting voice mail.
The CTPPAR007 adds the wires travelling from the HU to the Steering Wheel buttons for the telephone functions. If your HU was connected with the harness of wires, then the DSP shouldn't be a factor - DSP was a connector for the CD changer.
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Old 01-20-2010, 04:00 PM   #80
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All volumes are at MAX although the radio volume button does not control the volume after switching to BT, only the steering wheel controls work.

Just a quick update on the problem described above I found that the volume on the parrot audio amplifier is not as high as the OEM radio audio system and when switches to BT it uses as max volume the audio volume level the radio was at at the time of the call. I can turn the volume down but not up form the controls. So, if used as a normal volume for listening to a news channel for example then the BT is not usable (too low) but if I listen to music at the high volume and an incoming call comes, then the volume is fine and the BT works fine.

I was thinking of adding an additional amplifier ELK-800 but do you know what are the two audio wires form CTPPAR007 or parrot I can cut/tap into.
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