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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 09-27-2010, 03:40 PM   #81
SprChrg328
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Old 09-27-2010, 04:07 PM   #82
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Quote:
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^
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Old 09-28-2010, 01:11 PM   #83
Riverbmr3
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I replaced my FSR from Pelican and then problem still the same, called Pelican and they sent me a new FSR and sent them back the first one cause we thought it was defective. After installing the new FSR problem still the same.. anybody encounter same problem and what the solution be?
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Old 09-29-2010, 06:49 PM   #84
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Done here. A magnetic screwdriver and the bmw flashlight are pretty helpful. You can actually alternate between kneeling on a floor mat outside the car and looking in and laying on your back with your feet out the door to get it in. No screws for mine. One question though. I can't remember if it was this way before the replacement but when I hit auto and any temperature is selected, the fan goes to one notch before all the way high. I thought it turned on full speed before. Has anyone seen this?
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Old 09-29-2010, 09:32 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffmr View Post
Done here. A magnetic screwdriver and the bmw flashlight are pretty helpful. You can actually alternate between kneeling on a floor mat outside the car and looking in and laying on your back with your feet out the door to get it in. No screws for mine. One question though. I can't remember if it was this way before the replacement but when I hit auto and any temperature is selected, the fan goes to one notch before all the way high. I thought it turned on full speed before. Has anyone seen this?
That's normal... the Auto will sort of reset the fan speed and adjust it to the necessary speed to get the cabin temp to whatever setting you selected.
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Old 09-29-2010, 10:05 PM   #86
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I was just wondering though because I set it to the lowest and highest temperatures in 70 degree weather and it never went to complete high which it should have if it was using the full range. I seem to remember it doing this before.
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Old 10-03-2010, 09:24 PM   #87
truajb
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Open things up again today to probably install the new FSR. With the help of a screw driver and some luck, I was able to complete the job in about 20 mins. One tip is to tape the parts that sits in front of the FSR up so that it's not in your way. It will still be there but at least it becomes easier for you to reach the FSR. Good luck to other DYIers.
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Old 10-09-2010, 02:26 PM   #88
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Thanks to sycE46, for the great DIY. The only things different were that I had Phillips screws holding in the glove box. I did manage to lose one of the torx screws holding in the FSR unit...it fell behind the carpet and as I tried to retrieve it it worked it's way deeper. A note to add would be that the air vent just wiggles right out...that gives you access to the module that you have to unscrew. I paid $67.42 for the FSR with shipping from autohausAZ. It is a Behr unit and a lot smaller the OEM. Took about an hour to replace...that included coming back in the house a few times to look at the DYI and pictures. The fan works like new again, I can hit 'auto' and it adjusts now. Previously the fan was either on high or off...no in between speeds. I have to figure I saved at least a couple of hundred dollars with this...so many many thanks !!!!
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Old 10-09-2010, 08:18 PM   #89
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According to the bentley manual you can get that duct out of the way if you remove the heater control panel and attack it from the top. I was real close to trying it but finally was able to maneuver the old FSR past the metal tube down there. Wasn't able to wiggle the air vent out from below.

Last edited by wildcat293; 10-09-2010 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 10-16-2010, 04:20 PM   #90
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Thanks for the DIY.

This would have taken me about 20 minutes if I hadn't ^%$#^ up and broke the clip on the top of the flap actuator, Its the cream colored cap like thing shown in pictures 3 and 4. Its not terribly expensive, as it looks like it comes with the actuator bracket part number 64 11 6 979 467 in real OEM. About $10 with CCA discount, but unfortunately, I can't get my hands on one until next week Wednesday. Grrr. I'm really good at turning simple jobs into colossal jobs... For anyone else who reads this. Its true you don't have to disconnect it completely, but you have to make sure when you push it out of the way that you are not stressing the clip. I didn't have light in the right place until AFTER I heard the crack.

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Old 11-10-2010, 01:37 PM   #91
Rick C.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sycE46 View Post
Here's my DIY on replacing the Final Stage Unit (Resistor).

I know there's other DIYs on this, but i tried to create one with better pictures. It can be a little confusing when you're trying to replace the unit.

A failing Final Stage Resistor will cause the cabin fan to blow at sporadic speeds. It usually shows up as the fan blowing at a faster speed then it is set to.

http://www.bokchoys.com/differential...stage_unit.htm

Parts Needed:
Final Stage Unit (Part # 64116920365)
(Check BMW for latest part #)

Tools Needed
T-20 Socket
Philips Screw Driver

1. Remove Glove compartment. (6) Philips Screws. Unplug light and flash light wires.



2. Remove the lower tray holding footwell light. Unplug light.



3. The final stage resistor is located behind the footwell air duct as seen in the picture. There's a module blocking it, you'll need to move it out of the way before you can access the Final Stage Resistor. Move this module by removing the (2) T-20 Screws. There's a hose that's connected to this module that you don't need remove. Just let the module dangle.



4. You should be able to see the Final Stage Resistor now. Remove Final Stage Resistor by unscrewing the (2) T-20 screws. Unplug the wire. Un-clip unit and pull out.



5. Reconnect everything in reverse order and you're done.

Picture of a new final stage resistor

Thanks so much for that detailed DIY! My blower motor gave me only one warning before it stopped working altogether. I found my part at AutohausAZ.com for $70...followed your steps...and now I'm back in business! It's a little tricky contorting yourself into position and trying to get a light on things, but if you take an occasional break to stretch out...you will get it done.
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Old 11-10-2010, 02:41 PM   #92
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Old 11-10-2010, 02:47 PM   #93
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Very Usefull
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Old 11-11-2010, 04:17 PM   #94
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Got my BAHR FSR from http://www.rmeuropean.com. I only paid $59.17 and received Free shipping.

It is a little bit of a pain, but everyone should be able to complete this DIY in 1 hour or less.

My story: 2 months ago my blower did not come on, all I did was turn the car off and back on, like magic the f'n blower came to life. Blower worked perfectly until 1 week ago. I started the car and turned on the heat, blower never came on. I did a few check steps (disconnected Negative terminal, checked fuses) nothing worked. Today I Replaced FSR and everything is working fine.

Last edited by JosephZ; 11-11-2010 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 11-21-2010, 01:44 PM   #95
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I am having major difficulty - I can only get to one screw, of the module in the way, and even then - only to see. Can't use a screw driver T20 because it is tucked up behind the center console. Can't use a socket because the top of the module I have to get out of the way, prevents the socket from getting close to the screw. Any extension and the socket will be to long and will hit the fuse box.

I can't see how this can be done in any way, shape, or form.

How in the F&*K do the wires come off?!?!?!?!!? There is zero play - there has to be a latch that can't be seen.

I finally figured out the FSR is lower than the original part I saw. Like someone else here - there is no getting the vent out of the way - it does not just wiggle off in any way. The Bently shows that it is clipped on and would need to take apart many pieces in the engine bay.

Only one screw holding it in but it won't budge - there was a plastic clip as well - had to force it aside but the unit still does not move.

Last edited by CylonRed; 11-21-2010 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 11-21-2010, 04:33 PM   #96
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Well - found out how to take the wiring out - had to pry the retainer clip up and it slipped tight out. FSR got reclipped BACK in - could not budge the clip. Starting to break the plastic clip and the housing for the module that was in the way. Decided to reclip the wires back in since the FSR was not going to come out - nothing to grab onto. Still could not get the clip holding the FSR on, to move out of the way. Decided to take the wires out again - broke that clip and now the wire hardness will NOT come off. NO idea why - wires are inthe way to see, can't get enough light to see the clip that broke off - it looks like it completely broke off all of the way across.

I don;t see how this is even possible to work out. How it can be done in 20 minutes is beyond me.
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Old 11-29-2010, 01:04 PM   #97
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Just did mine and it worked! My symptoms were hat regardless of what I did the fan would stay on even after the car was off. If I turned it on I wouldn't get hot or cold air but warm and it would be blow heat. One I turned the system off it would go full blast. Doing this solved everything.
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Old 12-04-2010, 11:17 AM   #98
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I am about to replace the FSR in my 325ci, hope everything goes smooth
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Old 12-04-2010, 02:57 PM   #99
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thanks everyone for the info on FSR, just replaced mine and the blower is working now
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:08 PM   #100
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thank you for the write.. up.. completed yesterday.. my ac was intermittent then everything just stopped working, AC, heat, defrost.... i had the part for the day.. yesterday was it., definately not as easy as chaging the oil.
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