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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 04-27-2012, 04:31 PM   #241
lkstaack
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Do I need to clear my codes so they go away for good? I have inspection next week.
Some, perhaps all, fault codes are stored even after the fault is no longer present. You won't be failed based on a stored fault code. Being the paranoid person that I am though, I would clear stored codes indicating a problem with my cats prior to a smog test.

However, you probably know that you will fail a smog check if you clear fault codes prior to a test. An entire emissions cycle must be completed prior to the test after clearing OBD codes. This cycle typically takes 50+ miles of city and highway driving, plus cold starts over a period of days. I recall reading on the internets what exactly must be completed for a complete cycle; search if you care. Its pretty involved, but is usually achieved over 3-5 days of regular driving.
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Old 04-30-2012, 10:47 PM   #242
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For everyone who removed their stock post O2 sensors, why are you wiring up 2 resistors? Can't you just run both of the post o2 heater wires to the same resistor?
The DME will set a fault as it monitors the heater circuits independently and will notice if it's wires are crossed. I did that back in the beginning when I was figuring this out, and I think it was like a "short to ground" kind of fault.

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Guys no CEL but those two codes are still showing up in my pocket scanner..... I've driven more than 50 miles with it off already.
With OBDII you won't actually see the check engine light untill you get two complete drive cycles with failures back to back. But it is a fault because you are seeing it with your scanner.
Have you replaced your pre-cat O2 sensors yet?
Did you FREE-AIR calibrate the LC-1?
If you have an volt meter you can even check the output of the LC-1 to make sure you are getting about .650V at idle. If all this has been checked and you have set the voltage values and the 1/3 second delay, I don't see how it sets a fault. Has all of the above been checked?
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Old 04-30-2012, 11:18 PM   #243
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The DME will set a fault as it monitors the heater circuits independently and will notice if it's wires are crossed. I did that back in the beginning when I was figuring this out, and I think it was like a "short to ground" kind of fault.



With OBDII you won't actually see the check engine light untill you get two complete drive cycles with failures back to back. But it is a fault because you are seeing it with your scanner.
Have you replaced your pre-cat O2 sensors yet?
Did you FREE-AIR calibrate the LC-1?
If you have an volt meter you can even check the output of the LC-1 to make sure you are getting about .650V at idle. If all this has been checked and you have set the voltage values and the 1/3 second delay, I don't see how it sets a fault. Has all of the above been checked?
Everything been replaced. It's been now 400+ miles and no CEL on the dash. I'm due on my inspection now. The scanner still shows the two faults. I'm thinking those faults could be freeze frame codes.

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Old 04-30-2012, 11:22 PM   #244
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I don't get it. If there is a fault the light should come on. I've done all these miles and its still off but the codes are there? My car I feel is playing games with me. I want to go to the inspection station knowing its ready. I don't want to pay $30 again and again.....
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:10 AM   #245
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I don't get it. If there is a fault the light should come on. I've done all these miles and its still off but the codes are there? My car I feel is playing games with me. I want to go to the inspection station knowing its ready. I don't want to pay $30 again and again.....
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"With OBDII you won't actually see the check engine light untill you get two complete drive cycles with failures back to back."

This is absolutely correct. However, codes don't clear themselves
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:30 AM   #246
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"With OBDII you won't actually see the check engine light untill you get two complete drive cycles with failures back to back."

This is absolutely correct. However, codes don't clear themselves
So my car should pass the obd inspection then.

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Old 05-01-2012, 07:40 AM   #247
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So my car should pass the obd inspection then.

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CEL lights and codes can really only indirrectly effect an emissions test. The real deciding factors are OBDII readiness monitors. In RI, I need 5 of 6 to be set to "Ready" in order to pass. Granted, if you have a CEL, you're not going to have 5 readiness monitors in the "ready" state.

A simple device like this can read readiness monitors: OBDII Scanner
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:53 AM   #248
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CEL lights and codes can really only indirrectly effect an emissions test. The real deciding factors are OBDII readiness monitors. In RI, I need 5 of 6 to be set to "Ready" in order to pass. Granted, if you have a CEL, you're not going to have 5 readiness monitors in the "ready" state.

A simple device like this can read readiness monitors: OBDII Scanner
In mass its 8 monitors.

It's been well over 400 miles since this light went out on its own so The monitors should be ready...

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Old 05-05-2012, 09:50 PM   #249
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^you also wont be paying over and over again
you pay once if you fail you get a reject sticker and X amount of days to fix it
and when you "fix it" you go back to the SAME STATION its no charge

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Old 05-06-2012, 01:10 AM   #250
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^you also wont be paying over and over again
you pay once if you fail you get a reject sticker and X amount of days to fix it
and when you "fix it" you go back to the SAME STATION its no charge

< used to be a state inspector
I know I know. I'm on in expired sticker right now..... Going monday morning.
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Old 05-06-2012, 07:48 AM   #251
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God bless Florida and their lack of emissions testing... i.e. none.
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:13 PM   #252
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Guys she passed! Thank you all for helping me out through my ordeal.

Looks like the adaptations needed to be balanced out.
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:48 PM   #253
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Guys she passed! Thank you all for helping me out through my ordeal.

Looks like the adaptations needed to be balanced out.
Good news!
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Old 06-16-2012, 01:48 AM   #254
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Before I begin this, can anyone confirm the following?
I know there were a few diagrams, but I wanted to make sense of it.

I opted to use resistors since I wanted to rule out possibly bad O2s ( I have post cat heater codes)

1. Diagram - Is this okay?



2. For the ground, the best ground is a common ground. So basically I'm going to tie up grays from the 02 sensors with the white and blue wire from the LC-1 to a ring connector and connect it to the factory grounding point by the ECU?

3. I know opt stated that the resistor don't get much hotter than 150f. Anyone see the same? I'd like to put it under the engine cover just as the opt did.
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:27 PM   #255
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Your diagram is correct. The only thing I could add is that I don't like to tie the two O2 sensor signal wires together. I run Bank1 sensor to Analog! and Bank2 to Analog2.
I use the 50ohm 10watt resistors in my setup and they don't get any hotter then the fuel rail gets in stop and go traffic.
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:26 AM   #256
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Will it not work to run both Banks off of Analog1 so Analog2 can drive an AFR meter?

Thanks,
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:59 AM   #257
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Will it not work to run both Banks off of Analog1 so Analog2 can drive an AFR meter?

Thanks,
Yes. I have have had my setup running like that without issue since March. See below.

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I got my LC-1 all installed and wired on Sunday. The wideband readings look good. I installed it in probably the simplest method: I took off the engine cover and located the two rear O2 sensor connectors right next to the fuel rail. I cut wires on the sensor side of the harness for the O2 voltage signal only (i.e. the wires corresponding to the yellow wire for each engine side harness for the rear O2). This prevented any cutting on any stock wiring. Also, I did not have to find a way to mimic the heater circuit because it remains in place.

I had another bung welded in for the wideband. I grounded the LC-1 to the ground strap located above the ECU under the hood. I got power from the red/white and yellow spot 12v switched power in the ECU compartment. Just cut some sheathing and soldered on a wire. The LC-1 brain is tire wrapped to the transmission cross member under the car and is safe from debris or hitting anything. The wiring end of the LC-1 was run on the driver's side of the motor (less heat sources to burn the wiring on that side) and the excess is looped and tie wrapped next to the brake master right below the rain tray for the cabin air filter housing. I put the LED and push button calibrator there too for easy access. It was a pretty painless install.

I left the check engine light codes tripped and on. EA and E9 I believe are the rear O2 cat codes I was always throwing. On other cars I have owned, most of the time, if the ECU sees a correction, the light will go off. I was thinking that the ultimate test of this system would be to see if the ECU turns the light off itself. Though, it might be incapable on this car/setup. If the light doesn't go off by the end of Friday, I will reset and see if it comes on in the future.

Comments welcome! Thanks to the originator of this idea; I hope it solves everything for me.
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Old 06-19-2012, 08:14 AM   #258
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Even if the CEL is off, are all your monitors passing?

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Old 06-19-2012, 08:17 AM   #259
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Even if the CEL is off, are all your monitors passing?

John R.
I assume this is an emissions testing question. There is no emissions testing in Florida, thank God! None of my cars have cats. To try to answer your questions, I can tell you when I scan for codes, there are zero thrown and no pending. If you keep the stock O2s in place, I think you have the best setup b/c you are not relying on a resistor, and it will pass visual inspection. Also, with the way mine is setup, there is no appearance of wire tampering to the stock O2s. the only thing anyone can see is the additional wideband sensor.

Hope this helps!
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Old 06-19-2012, 08:26 AM   #260
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Thanks, You can have a monitor not ready but still have no code set.

John
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