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Old 11-09-2009, 09:59 PM   #1
azzy989
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325 ZHP build thread **warning...lots of pics**

alright guys, i thought i'd share a project me and a few other fanatics worked on over the past few weeks. i came across a used m54b30 motor on craigslist. it had 92k miles and the owner had simply bought a new motor because his head was warped and the head gasket was no longer sealing. on top of that, he had done a pretty sketchy heli-coil on the block and head in an attempt to fix the issue. here are a few pictures of us tearing into that motor:











once we got to the crank and rods, we determined that all were still in good condition and they could be reused...now this information has been posted up a few times here and there but i don't think it is really common knowledge so i figured i would post up EXACTLY what you need to stroke your 2.5L m54 up to a 3.0 or swap a 3.0 liter into your 325..

DISCLAIMER: this is meant to be a guide only, attempt at your own risk

the main differences between the 2.5 and the 3.0 lie in the internals..the main parts needed for the swap are:

- an m54b30 crankshaft or s52b32 crank shaft (both are the same)
- m54b30/m52TUb28 connecting rods
- m54b30 pistons
- m54b30 intake cam (the exhaust cam on the 2.5 is the same part number as the 3.0)
- m54b30 intake manifold with at least the DISA valve still on it ( i believe the other intake accessories are interchangeable)
- m54b30 "purple" injectors
- m54b30 throttle body and intake boots
- m54b30 compatible intake
- m54b30 maf sensor (3.5" vs the 2.5's 3.0" maf sensor) there are 2 different mafs available for the 3.0L. make sure to check yours and get the appropriate maf for your car..i believe 3 pin mafs use the part number- 13627567451 while the 5 pin mafs use the part number- 13627566983.
**EDIT: there appears to be an exception for xi 330's..it seems like the xi's never switched to the 5 pin maf sensors that the rest of the cars did. i'm not certain whether there is an "ms45" 330xi or not. another way you can check your ECU type is to pull your ecu out of the box (this goes for all vehicles i suppose)...there was a sticker on mine with my VIN number as well as the ECU type...for example: "WBXXXXXXXXXXXX MS 45.1"

instructions on how to do this can be found on tim's very useful supercharger diy thread

http://my330i.com/mod47.php

in the pre production notes read sections 1-4**

if you do go with the stroker method a very important thing to know is that the head bolts, rod bolts and main bearing bolts are all stretch type bolts which means they are 1 time use only. you MUST purchase these bolts. part numbers:

head bolts (14 total): 11121740065
rod bolts (12 total): 11247589671
main bearing bolts (14 total): 11111740345

everything else is the same between the motors...the block, the head, the oil pan, oil pump can all be reused


the build
now on to my actual build. i lucked out as my buddy rich (richaraiza) was going ESS ts2+ which meant his zhp cams were up for sale so i threw those in the motor instead of looking for a regular 330 intake cam. instead of hoping that my internals were good enough for the task, i ordered a completely new set of piston rings, bearings, gaskets and other misc. parts for the swap. if anyone needs this parts list, i have it readily available. just PM me.

the plan to pull the motor was as follows: remove the intake manifold, remove the front of the car, disconnect the driveshaft from the transmission, disconnect the transmission cross brace and finally undo the engine mounts.


the initial tear down....







this is a pretty good picture of all the intake tubing out of the way...notice all that wiring you'll have to deal with


fantastic shot brandon...


front end of the car off




ok this picture is pretty important..in order to keep everything in check, label ALL of your electrical connections...even if you don't know what they are, have some sort of description. i labelled maybe 95% of the connections and let me tell you, even then it took us a while to figure out where the remaining plugs went.

what we did was keep the engine wiring harness with the car as per adam's (pei330ci) suggestion. one thing you will run across is the wiring to the fuel injectors. this took some figuring out on our part but we eventually got it. there are 6 metal clips that hold the injector wiring to the injectors themselves. if you pop those 6 clips off the wiring will come right off and give you much better access to the 9 top intake manifold nuts.


the donor 330 manifold and wiring




mmm brand new gaskets


more to come....
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Last edited by azzy989; 11-12-2009 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:08 PM   #2
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well done!
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:09 PM   #3
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more under car work


now to the actual engine pull:


this is why you have to pull the manifold...the 2nd lifting point for the motor is underneath it




crazy angle of the engine coming out


last minute labelling


its bleeding!!


finally the engine out of the car


and the mess we made


look at all that room in the engine compartment!


the next step was to disconnect the transmission from the motor. the auto tranny is VERY heavy...


valve cover off....my motor appeared to be very clean which is a good thing!


a view of the ebay headers...i swear its almost easier to pull the motor than to try and install these on the car...the nuts are so much easier to get to. i coated the headers with vht ceramic coating. i'd also like to note that after a whole year, the headers still appear to be in good condition.








now for the cam removal. this is a delicate process. some of the lobes on the cam are probably still acting on valves so they are spring loaded. bmw camshafts are hollow! you have to undo the nuts for the bearing caps slowly and carefully. make sure that you equalize the pressures as much as possible so that you don't snap the cam


once the cams are out you can pull the cam trays up. the lifters will fall out..remember the order in which they came out so you can put them back in the same way.


oil pan, oil pump and oil girdle removed so that you can see the crank....thats the nasty cast iron 2.5 crank


cleaning the cylinder walls....my cylinders still had VERY defined crosshatching on it. we didn't get a picture of it but because it was still very visible we decided that honing was not necessary.


another picture of the b25 crank


pile of cam parts....


my car and brandon's sitting in the garage (brandond11)


the b30 crankshaft in its new home


newly ringed b30 pistons going in


a cool view of the block..notice the small yellow dots on the crank lobes. those are the color codes that indicate what kind of bearings you need. in this case, i needed the standard "yellow" main bearings.


we stopped taking pictures from here because everyone was doing a lot of different things at once. the rebuild is pretty much the same as the disassembly. i will talk about the cam installation though. what i did was clean all the bearing cap surfaces thoroughly. you don't want anything scoring your cam journals. apply some engine oil/engine assembly lube to the lifters and the bearing caps next, set your motor at 30 degrees before TDC (rotate the crankshaft 30 degrees counter clockwise from TDC) that ensures that all of the pistons are either at the bottom of their stroke or in the middle of it so that you don't touch any valves and pistons...next, put the cams in as close to TDC position as possible. TDC for the cams have the lobes at cylinder 1 facing each other at a slight angle. example here:



now this is the hard part, you need to put all the bearing caps on and start to tighten them down. there is no easy way to do this. you will be working against at least 2 valve springs. the trick is to go slow (1/2 a turn at a time) and make sure to equalize the pressure.

as far as timing goes, Dr. Vanos has the m54 double vanos timing tools available for rent. its 50 dollars to rent plus a 200 dollar refundable deposit. www.drvanos.com you can also buy the tools from ebay for around 300 bucks. there are 7 tools total that you will need.

here are some pictures of the final product.




some of the things that i 'fixed' while the motor was apart were the beisan systems vanos seals and the zhp rattle fix...a new CCV valve...i also got rid of the exploding auto clutch fan and wired in an electric fan and thermostat from summit racing...and finally new upper and lower radiator hoses

now here comes the part that scares most people off from this build...

Software and wiring

there are several things you can do to ensure your software is compatible.. i will go through them all.

your first option is to do the full build including the b30 intake manifold but reuse the b25 injectors, throttle body, and maf. using this setup you will have no software issues and the car will 'run fine' according to ESS...(they do have a stroker map for this setup) and say it yields about 215 crank hp...

your next option is to use all the b30 components and find a donor b30 ecu. you MUST make sure that the donor ecu is the same software type as your car...the wiring harnesses between ms43 and ms45 are different, and swapping wiring harnesses could potentially be a pain! other things you will need if you go this route are the EWS, and possibly the LCM and instrument cluster from the same car the ecu came from. that will ensure that your mileage all lines up and you won't get the tamper dot.

your final option is to send your ecu to get tuned. this is the option i chose. i sent my b25 ecu to ESS and they flashed it up to 3.0 specs, and they gave me a 330 zhp NA tune as well. i figured this was best idea so that i could keep all my electronics the same. this tuning is a pretty cost effective option and doesn't cost much more than their regular NA tuning costs.

right now the motor has about 900 miles on it (yea i racked up quite a few miles in the last week ) and everything is working 100%...i have no CEL's, SES's or anything like that. and, all in all the swap took 2 weeks to complete...90% of the work being done friday through sunday....and a few odd weekdays trouble shooting...

b30 engine swap
it is certainly easier to just buy a 3.0 motor from a junkyard and install that into your car. some things that you have to note. you should try and find a motor that is of the same ecu type (ms43/ms45) as your vehicle. if you can't get that information, the wiring is almost identical between the two..the o2 sensors and maf sensors are different between ms43 and ms45 and there is 1 stray plug for ms43 which goes into the intake manifold. bmw decided to get rid of this for ms45...so converting a motor between ms45 and ms43 is a pretty simple task.

if you need any information about the resources that i used feel free to PM me. i can answer all the questions you may have. one more note: this was my first motor rebuild and all of the work was done in a garage...this swap is entirely possible if you have the time to commit to it.

a big thanks to Brandon (brandond11), Rich (richaraiza), Jacob (JF0517), Corey (our engine rebuild specialist ), Stuart (330i ZHP), Adam (PEI330ci) and finally Evan. All of your help was much appreciated.
thats about it for the build...hope you enjoyed seeing/reading about it..

update:

i threw the car on a dyno...results were 200 whp and 184 wtq...not great compared to all the other 3.0's with headers but definitely not too shabby considering it is an automatic. and video of the dyno....the car became a lot raspier with the 3.0 but it's definitely a very cool sound

my exhaust setup is: ebay headers + 325 stock exhaust (all resonators and mufflers in)...no cats...

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Last edited by azzy989; 11-18-2009 at 07:58 AM.
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:10 PM   #4
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sweet!
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:13 PM   #5
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Wow thats awsome
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:14 PM   #6
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wow sweet congrats looks like fun
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:15 PM   #7
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wow nice right up
if i wasnt going S/C id probavly do this
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:18 PM   #8
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wow!
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:18 PM   #9
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Nicely done bro, and it looks factory like nothing was changed lol
How much of a diffrence in power do you feel?
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:22 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B View Post
well done!
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadpass View Post
sweet!
Quote:
Originally Posted by secono330ci View Post
Wow thats awsome
Quote:
Originally Posted by b/\/\w STREETS View Post
wow sweet congrats looks like fun
Quote:
Originally Posted by E46 S54B32 View Post
wow nice right up
if i wasnt going S/C id probavly do this
Quote:
Originally Posted by zhp6mt View Post
wow!
thanks a lot guys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by I8URAMG View Post
Nicely done bro, and it looks factory like nothing was changed lol
How much of a diffrence in power do you feel?
haha yeah thats the best part about the swap. i definitely felt a BIG power increase..particularly in the low end. you can definitely feel the extra torque that the 330 has down low. i think the most interesting change on top of the power was the noise the engine makes. it is a lot more mechanical and throaty. all in all i'd say the swap was well worth it. the b30 motor is a lot stronger out of the box and its a better base if you want to supercharge your motor...
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:33 PM   #11
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So, you'll pass smog right?
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:38 PM   #12
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Awesome...congrats on a great build.
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:40 PM   #13
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So, you'll pass smog right?
if you use your stock headers and o2 sensors then yes you will pass smog. i won't because i am running catless, but i'm registered in a county that does not do emission testing.

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Awesome...congrats on a great build.
thanks man. much appreciated
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:40 PM   #14
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Damn dude
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:45 PM   #15
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fricken sweet! awesome work
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:54 PM   #16
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Damn dude
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fricken sweet! awesome work
thanks

i do want to note...this swap is possible for the 328/323 guys. the issue behind this is the wiring. the 323/328 runs on ms42 ecu's and use a mechanically controlled throttle body as opposed to the drive by wire one in the m54... i believe bmw chuzo did this swap a while back so i'm sure if you are interested in that swap and you have an m52TU motor...you can ask him about the wiring...

a link to his build thread:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...376&highlight=
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:59 PM   #17
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if you use your stock headers and o2 sensors then yes you will pass smog. i won't because i am running catless, but i'm registered in a county that does not do emission testing.
Lucky bastard
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Old 11-09-2009, 11:02 PM   #18
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Good job man, but alot of damn work.
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Old 11-09-2009, 11:53 PM   #19
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Go Azzy
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Old 11-09-2009, 11:56 PM   #20
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woot! Nice job on the build

Engine swaps are damn fun, the first time
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