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E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

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Old 10-27-2010, 03:04 PM   #61
TiAgXi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kubica View Post
If you dont remove the strut, you have to remove the tie-rod and outer ball joint from the knuckle to get the axle out of the hub. Pick your poison.
Isn't that what the guy in the vid does? Looking through quickly again, I follow the Bentley manual almost 100% and do things quite differently.

Here's what I do:

-remove wheel and chisel out indentations on axle nut

-replace wheel and remove axle nut then remove wheel.

-remove abs sensor from caliper and remove brake caliper fron steering arm

- detach CA from subframe

- detach sway bar end link

- remove axle from hub

- remove axle from diff

- replace axle radial seal

- replace everything.

No need to remove strut from hub or undo tierod.

In the end, you're right. Pick your poison. The only real problem I have with the vid is the guys using a screw driver to remove the axle.

I didn't know air tools could supply the 300 ft/lbs of torque needed for the axle nut...that's impressive.

Last edited by TiAgXi; 10-27-2010 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 10-27-2010, 04:25 PM   #62
Itzed
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I really didn't have any trouble getting the axles out, I just went under the differential and found a place where I could tap it out by placing a screwdriver on just the axle and using a couple moderate blows with a hammer. Both of them came right out. As far as putting them in, I just tapped them on the ends with a maul and used an old socket that was a little smaller than axle to avoid hitting it directly, and to make sure I didn't damage the threads. Of course I never really heard a "click", because of the noise I was making, but I'm sure they are in. The distance from the differential is the same as it was on the ones I removed. One other thing, after I replaced the passenger side one, my ride smoothed out quite a bit. I'm sure the split boot or loss of grease or something was enough to cause a slight balance problem on the old one.
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Old 10-27-2010, 04:27 PM   #63
Kubica
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiAgXi View Post
Isn't that what the guy in the vid does? Looking through quickly again, I follow the Bentley manual almost 100% and do things quite differently.

Here's what I do:

-remove wheel and chisel out indentations on axle nut

-replace wheel and remove axle nut then remove wheel.

-remove abs sensor from caliper and remove brake caliper fron steering arm

- detach CA from subframe

- detach sway bar end link

- remove axle from hub

- remove axle from diff

- replace axle radial seal

- replace everything.

No need to remove strut from hub or undo tierod.

In the end, you're right. Pick your poison. The only real problem I have with the vid is the guys using a screw driver to remove the axle.

I didn't know air tools could supply the 300 ft/lbs of torque needed for the axle nut...that's impressive.
I personally hate the Bentley manual.

I would say my way is better, only because you don't put as much stress on the ball joints when you dissassemble. A control arm is ~$200 if you screw that up.

And why does it say to put the wheel back on and then remove the axle nut? That is crazy talk.
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Old 10-27-2010, 04:45 PM   #64
TiAgXi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kubica View Post

And why does it say to put the wheel back on and then remove the axle nut? That is crazy talk.
Probably because putting 300 ft lbs of torque on an axle nut while the car is on jackstands could be dangerous.
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Old 10-27-2010, 07:01 PM   #65
Itzed
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It's because someone has to apply the brakes so you can get the nut off. Nothing to grab and hold if there is no disk.

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Old 10-27-2010, 07:45 PM   #66
TiAgXi
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It's because someone has to apply the brakes so you can get the nut off. Nothing to grab and hold if there is no disk.

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If you remove the axle nut before you remove the brake caliper you can remove the axle nut while the car is on stands. I've done it that way as well. I think the safest way to do it is with the wheels on, center caps off and the car on the ground. Or maybe its just the way you can do it without a helper. iono.
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:21 AM   #67
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glad you did it...i installed mine and the ring never opened!!!!! yup!!..... i had to spend three days banging it out...when it finally came out the Cv axle ringwas all jacked up. I took the car to a repair shop, and I got lucky when the new shaft went in and I did not screw up the gears in the tranny.!!! lesson learned..DO NOT GO TO AUTOZONE FOR NEW CV AXLE TO SAVE $$$$$$ go to FPgroton.com!!
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:37 PM   #68
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I watched a guy do mine while only removing the tie rod end, did nothing with the brake or steering knuckle. He just kind of pulled everything out of the way. I cant imagine this would damage much of anything given the forces these parts see under normal driving conditions.
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Old 03-17-2011, 10:35 PM   #69
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What are the simptoms of a bad axel?I am getting noise from the front... Kind of sounds like when your tranny is a gear too high. Barely perceptible.
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Old 03-22-2011, 12:15 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by botaman View Post
I have attached some pix for you to see how to remove the axle spline from the hub.
From the differential is a lot easier. I used a long and bend screw driver from Harbor Freight, I wedged it some how and wacked with a good size hamer.
You can re-use the OEM cir-clips.
You also need to replace the radial seals, if you don't you may find a leak later.

what is that tool in the first pic?? ive been having the shittiest time trying to do my right axle. its stuck and that tool is what i need.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jgold47 View Post
What are the simptoms of a bad axel?I am getting noise from the front... Kind of sounds like when your tranny is a gear too high. Barely perceptible.
clicking at low speeds and slow turns. :/
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Old 03-22-2011, 12:24 PM   #71
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what is that tool in the first pic?? ive been having the shittiest time trying to do my right axle. its stuck and that tool is what i need.



clicking at low speeds and slow turns. :/
ok thanks. Phew, definately not it. I am thinking i I have a tranny problem (not a better thing I suppose. Either my clutch is starting to slip or I have syncro issues. my noise goes away when the car is in neutral or the clutch is out....
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Old 03-22-2011, 12:34 PM   #72
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what is that tool in the first pic?? ive been having the shittiest time trying to do my right axle. its stuck and that tool is what i need.
Yeah! BMW is the only car I've ever known that is so tight to remove the spline shaft from the hub.

That tool is a combination of axle puller and the rod is from a hub puller. If you want to buy the tool make sure it's big enough, most axle pullers are tiny.
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Old 04-07-2011, 04:10 PM   #73
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doing this over the weekend....
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Old 04-08-2011, 01:49 PM   #74
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doing this over the weekend....
Good Luck to you and your car.

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Old 04-08-2011, 02:09 PM   #75
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good luck to you and your car.

lmao!! Oops...
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Old 04-09-2011, 06:21 PM   #76
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Good Luck to you and your car.

lol in the process of bending the tabs right now.
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:58 PM   #77
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where can i purchase a 12 pt socket at?
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Old 04-09-2011, 08:47 PM   #78
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Sears.com

Works nicely on the oil filter housing too.
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Old 04-09-2011, 08:53 PM   #79
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Sears.com

Works nicely on the oil filter housing too.
Is this the right one?

30 mm 12 point

from sears.com
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2&blockType=G2
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Old 04-09-2011, 09:54 PM   #80
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^No. 36mm.
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