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E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

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Old 04-09-2011, 10:49 PM   #81
Dan99
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^No. 36mm.
Thanks!
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Old 04-11-2011, 11:33 AM   #82
GCoop
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lol in the process of bending the tabs right now.
How did it go?
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:00 PM   #83
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How did it go?
I'm not too sure if I bent it enough, in the meantime, I'm just waiting for the socket and axle to arrive in the mail.

Thanks for the concern though.
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Old 04-14-2011, 03:57 PM   #84
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Does anybody know what's the part number for that rubber piece that I used the tie rod puller on?
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Old 04-14-2011, 06:34 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan99 View Post
Does anybody know what's the part number for that rubber piece that I used the tie rod puller on?
I don't know if the rubber boots are available separately. I haven't been able to find part numbers.
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Old 04-19-2011, 11:40 PM   #86
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got it done. everything went smoothly. thanks for all the help guys.
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Old 04-26-2011, 05:05 PM   #87
Sixracer
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My car has 101k and I have done 2 CV boots in the last 11k miles. Now 2 more are torn to hell and I need 2 new axles. Not up for doing it myself but man, my mechanic is getting rich of my all wheel drive. Makes me think RWD and snow tires is the way to go. Also have 2 cracked rear springs.
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:58 PM   #88
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Not to revive an old thread as my first post, but my 02 325Xi is showing the signs of CV axle failure, did the brakes 3 weeks ago and noticed grease splattered on to my right front caliper. Also, I get a shimmy during hard braking like the FCAB are gone. I planning on DIY. I'm conidering either FCP Groton or Cardone Axles. Would like to here any ones feedback on these. I just purchased the Bently manual and I am going through the procedure. Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 05-26-2011, 09:43 PM   #89
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Not to revive an old thread as my first post, but my 02 325Xi is showing the signs of CV axle failure, did the brakes 3 weeks ago and noticed grease splattered on to my right front caliper. Also, I get a shimmy during hard braking like the FCAB are gone. I planning on DIY. I'm conidering either FCP Groton or Cardone Axles. Would like to here any ones feedback on these. I just purchased the Bently manual and I am going through the procedure. Thanks in advance for the help.
Stay away from FCP> Too many horror stories.....
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Old 05-26-2011, 10:27 PM   #90
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Agree with mp333, FCP uses some Chinese knockoffs and it seems from most reports that they will fail rather quickly. Personally, if you're going to keep the car for another 60 to 100K miles, I'd just get OEM from Turner. I don't think I'd feel comfortable driving on cheap axles that could go at any time.
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:29 AM   #91
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I replaced my right front axle with a DSS brand axle from FCP. It lasted just over a year. This time I went with A1-Cardone from Rock Auto.
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:43 AM   #92
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Originally Posted by AtTheBar View Post
Not to revive an old thread as my first post, but my 02 325Xi is showing the signs of CV axle failure, did the brakes 3 weeks ago and noticed grease splattered on to my right front caliper. Also, I get a shimmy during hard braking like the FCAB are gone. I planning on DIY. I'm conidering either FCP Groton or Cardone Axles. Would like to here any ones feedback on these. I just purchased the Bently manual and I am going through the procedure. Thanks in advance for the help.
I got my axle from napa auto parts. It was a reman for 80 bucks and has been strong for almost a year now. I don't really know the brand napa uses though.

My fcabs were totally shot as well as the rest of the suspension and i never had a bad shimmy under any level of braking. Usually thats due to warped brake rotors. Did you change your rotors when you did the brakes? or at least had them faced? Front rotors don't last more than 2 pad changes before they start to warp. First change after putting in new ones you can face them if thier bad, but after that your pushing it.
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:07 AM   #93
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Solutions are not always as they appear-
I too had shimmy/shaking problems when braking. So, logically I replaced the front rotors & pads. However I still had the same problem. In this case the culprit was the FCABs.
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:31 AM   #94
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I think i am going to have to replace my front pass side axle soon...best price i have found for a new GKN axle is Bavarian Autosport, $199. For those that have "DIY" this repair- what is the consensus on what to remove? undo the strut (and risk breaking the bolt as many seem to have) or undo the control arm/ tie rod??
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:46 AM   #95
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Install Video-
http://www.youtube.com/embed/2zWGHdZvBbI
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Old 05-27-2011, 11:15 AM   #96
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I got my axle from napa auto parts. It was a reman for 80 bucks and has been strong for almost a year now. I don't really know the brand napa uses though.

My fcabs were totally shot as well as the rest of the suspension and i never had a bad shimmy under any level of braking. Usually thats due to warped brake rotors. Did you change your rotors when you did the brakes? or at least had them faced? Front rotors don't last more than 2 pad changes before they start to warp. First change after putting in new ones you can face them if thier bad, but after that your pushing it.
Napa axles are Cardone axles in a different box.

In my experience, bad FCABs don't really cause a 'shimmy' in the wheel under braking. It's more of a 'darting' feeling. If you stab the brakes hard and quick the front end darts to the left or right with bad FCABS. It's caused by a drastic change in toe at the front wheels.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickna View Post
Solutions are not always as they appear-
I too had shimmy/shaking problems when braking. So, logically I replaced the front rotors & pads. However I still had the same problem. In this case the culprit was the FCABs.
FYI- warped rear rotors can cause a shimmy in the steering wheel as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kylek325i View Post
I think i am going to have to replace my front pass side axle soon...best price i have found for a new GKN axle is Bavarian Autosport, $199. For those that have "DIY" this repair- what is the consensus on what to remove? undo the strut (and risk breaking the bolt as many seem to have) or undo the control arm/ tie rod??
The axles that Bav sells are Chinese, not GKN. They just charge more than everyone else, hence the confusion. That may have changed in the last few years though.

If you remove the bottom of the strut, you are less likely to throw the car out of alignment than by disconnecting tie-rods and control arms.
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Old 05-27-2011, 01:52 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kubica View Post
Napa axles are Cardone axles in a different box.

In my experience, bad FCABs don't really cause a 'shimmy' in the wheel under braking. It's more of a 'darting' feeling. If you stab the brakes hard and quick the front end darts to the left or right with bad FCABS. It's caused by a drastic change in toe at the front wheels.



FYI- warped rear rotors can cause a shimmy in the steering wheel as well.



The axles that Bav sells are Chinese, not GKN. They just charge more than everyone else, hence the confusion. That may have changed in the last few years though.

If you remove the bottom of the strut, you are less likely to throw the car out of alignment than by disconnecting tie-rods and control arms.
Just pointing out that it could be something other than rotors.
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Old 05-27-2011, 05:02 PM   #98
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I think i am going to have to replace my front pass side axle soon...best price i have found for a new GKN axle is Bavarian Autosport, $199. For those that have "DIY" this repair- what is the consensus on what to remove? undo the strut (and risk breaking the bolt as many seem to have) or undo the control arm/ tie rod??
I emailed BavAuto about their axles and they are made by OP Parts.
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Old 05-27-2011, 05:09 PM   #99
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I replaced my right front axle with a DSS brand axle from FCP. It lasted just over a year. This time I went with A1-Cardone from Rock Auto.
How are the A1-Cardone axles holding up? I am considering getting these from Rock Auto also. I'm planning on doing the axle and FCAB since I'm down there. I'm planning on just ordering the bushing kit from Turner with the bushing pressed into the carriers.

Last edited by AtTheBar; 05-27-2011 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 05-27-2011, 05:33 PM   #100
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^don't buy oem fcabs. They are garbage too. DEFINITELY get powerflex fcabs. Install is much easier, and you can reuse them instead of replacing them every time the arm is removed.

I went to an undercarriage tech session at the dealer last weekend through BMWCCA. Not sure if you guys know about these, but it's a free inspection for about 20 club members at a time. They block off 3-4 lifts and do a comprehensive inspection and answer all your questions. Only supposed to get 30 minutes on the lift, but I got about 90! Anyways as the car was going up, the tech pointed to my powerflex fcabs and says "you have these, nice!". I replied with "yeah the oems are garbage." He replies "yeah they are, they only last 12,000 miles."
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