DIY: Do It Yourself
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|08-19-2013, 02:19 AM||#1|
Join Date: Apr 2012
My Ride: 2003 325i
DIY:Code P1445 (DM-TL Pump)
Hopefully I'm posting this with the right format and what not, but recently I got this error code and found no DIYs anywhere on how to do it. I was kinda skeptical at first on replacing the pump itself because of the generic fixes (like the gas cover being off / un-tight) but I always close the cap, and furthermore, bought an entirely new cover.
Anyways, without further delay, the DIY for an e46 on how to replace the DM-TL (Diagnostic Module Tank Leakage) pump.
Hopefully this is the same across every e46, mine happens to be a '03 325i.
BOSCH PN: 0 261 222 018
$90, cheapest, free shipping to the 48 US states.
Brand new in the box, it'll be black and white, I did find that on other forums, but color doesn't matter, what it does, does.
The actual module (on my car atleast) is located up under the back passenger side, under some black plastics.
The plastics are simple to come off, all you need is a basic bolt set to access these two screws
Once you've got it off, it'll expose all the whatever the heck that stuff does, what we're looking for is gonna be towards the back on the car.
This is the old pump, the hoses are just air hoses. I didn't want to do this at first, fearing they would be some sort of liquids in there, but there was not.
There are two bolts that hold in the long cylinder canister thing, go ahead and unplug the DMTL pump, then unscrew those bolts on the chassis, I found it easiest to put a jack stand under it to hold it up.. Go ahead and wiggle the entire canister down, (you'll notice it still holding in place after removing the screws, it's just plastic)
Next is the pump itself. It's attached to the canister by 3 screws, I just used a alan key, carefully, to loosen them.
This can either be done before you loosen the 3 screws, or after, whichever's easiest, but this hose needs to be detached from the DMTL pump itself. (The hose that's sticking off)
It's just a clip, once loosed, is being held in snug by rubber washers, just wiggle it out.
The old pump (left) and the new pump (right)
PLEASE TAKE NOTE: The rubber grommet/washer/ring/thing on the old pump (left) needs, NEEDS to be removed and attached to the new one (right)
Replace everything back in reverse order, just make sure you're hoses are sung, hose clips in place, and you actually plug the new DMTL pump back in. We did have a few casualties, but these clips are gonna be just fine.
Once complete, employe your local dog to run a test drive
Thanks for reading. I tried to make this really simple for everyone, hopefully saving you a lot of money than going to the dealership. Total time: approx. 30min.
PLEASE NOTE: Your ECU does not check the DMTL pump every time the ignition is on. This post is most accurate on describing the conditions necessary for the pump to operate. How much of this is true, I'm not sure, but I will say that before replacing, i did fill my tank to half.
I turned my ignition on right after replacing, light was still on.
Let it sit overnight, cranked it up in the am, it was on, went off when I put it into reverse after idling (to warm the engine up) for about 30 seconds.
Lastly, hopefully these links to the pictures don't break, if they do, here's a link to the album that they're hosted in.
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|diagnostic, diagnostic pump, dmtl, p1445|
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