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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 08-02-2010, 09:23 AM   #741
Arby1028
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Originally Posted by JLondon View Post
Arby...what's the bump on the sunroof/homelink switch panel? Mine's flat. Maybe the sedan is different than the coupe.
Hmmmm...I think that bump is normal? Could be for the sunroof motor, etc.?
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:51 AM   #742
spencers
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Originally Posted by Arby1028 View Post
Good luck...remember there are only sharp things contained behind the vent, radio and glove box when you are reaching your hands back there
I thought I was the only one that experienced this! I diced my hands up a little bit while installing it.
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:52 AM   #743
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Originally Posted by JLondon View Post
Arby...what's the bump on the sunroof/homelink switch panel? Mine's flat. Maybe the sedan is different than the coupe.
Sedans have the bump, coupes don't.
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Old 08-03-2010, 10:27 AM   #744
E36M3FORNOW
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After 2 days of testing I can now say that the stock location of the mic works flawlessly
Great mod, great price ($100 including all parts) loving it so far
I-phone 4 works with this mod
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Old 08-03-2010, 10:59 AM   #745
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I'll throw in my experience from this past weekend.

I followed this DIY after receiving the kit from a fellow fanatic. The DIY itself is very precise and following it is really all anybody really needs. I will say however that removing the center vent was BY FAR the hardest thing I ever had to do. It's never been removed before so I'm not sure if it was a factor or not, but it took us almost 2 hours trying almost everything to get that damn thing out. Myself and my very loyal buddy worked on my car from 11 PM and we were done with it at 3:45 AM lol.

The install also included putting in a spec.dock which I'm quite happy about. Thank you so much to all those who contributed to this DIY and to this thread, your information and explanations are truly priceless. Stock location of the mic is by far the best. I can hear people's voices very clearly through the car's speakers. People hear me surprisingly well through the mic. I have heard from one of my callers however that (while I was on the highway), it sounded to them like I was "far away". The mic was probably picking up a bit more background noise than usual which would have probably been taking over my voice a bit. From what the caller told me, they would rank my voice quality at a 7/10 on the highway. Still loud enough to have a conversation but not the usual 10/10 clarity from when I'm on regular streets or at an idle.

I'm left with one final question: I will soon be upgrading my iPhone 3G to an iPhone4 however I wanted to know, is there any way at all that voice dialing can be used with the 3G? From what I've read, people need only press the voice button on the steering wheel to activate this feature on the phone. I know this feature was first introduced with the 3GS, but I was wondering if anybody had found a solution to this on the regular 3G. I suppose it's only a matter of time until I upgrade my phone and have this feature, but I was wondering if there was anything I can do in the interim. Thanks again for everybody's help
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Old 08-03-2010, 11:54 AM   #746
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I'm left with one final question: I will soon be upgrading my iPhone 3G to an iPhone4 however I wanted to know, is there any way at all that voice dialing can be used with the 3G? From what I've read, people need only press the voice button on the steering wheel to activate this feature on the phone. I know this feature was first introduced with the 3GS, but I was wondering if anybody had found a solution to this on the regular 3G. I suppose it's only a matter of time until I upgrade my phone and have this feature, but I was wondering if there was anything I can do in the interim. Thanks again for everybody's help
The voice control needs a bucket load of processing power to operate smoothly, so while there are half-baked implementations available in the appstore, the new hardware really does enable it to work as it should.
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:32 PM   #747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spencers View Post
The voice control needs a bucket load of processing power to operate smoothly, so while there are half-baked implementations available in the appstore, the new hardware really does enable it to work as it should.
Hmm... so no real way of getting that single voice button push on the steering wheel to activate some form of voice dialing on an iPhone 3G huh? ah well
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:31 PM   #748
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Originally Posted by E36M3FORNOW View Post
Sedans have the bump, coupes don't.
No bump in my sedan...
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Old 08-03-2010, 05:46 PM   #749
E36M3FORNOW
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No bump in my sedan...
We'll yours is a ZHP lol
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:06 PM   #750
ohio330
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I got the parts and installed this past weekend. Very easy. I got the center vent out in like 5 minutes. I pulled up from the bottom and pull out while rotating the bottom up. I hope that makes sense. kinda like an out and up at the same time.

Question though, may have been answered but am too lazy to search through all the pages. I have the Dice Ipod kit. I cant use my steering wheel controls or radio controls to change songs anymore. Can someone help please?
TIA
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Old 08-04-2010, 09:27 AM   #751
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Well all the recent activity in this thread got me motivated to install my kit, so thanks everyone. The DYI was very helpful and I am quite grateful for the time and effort that went into getting it done.

That said I can offer a few thoughts on my install.

First and foremost I hate the glove box and hope this is the last time I will have to be upside down half in my car trying to get it back in place.

Secondly, I had some struggles with getting the A/C vent out of the dash. Obviously, I got it out but after taking a look at it there appears to be a simple way to make it happen.

There are two notched "wheels" on the top corners that anchor the piece in place. You should be able to slide a butter knife / panel tool in at the top corners to depress them and just slide it out. Hopefully that can save someone some frustration.

My "A" connector (original OEM harness) had virtually no slack and it was a real PITA to get it moved back, around and above the radio chassis. I managed to cut my hands up pretty good before finally getting the connector to face the drivers side with the wiring coming out of the back toward the passenger side. Once I did that I was able to get the harness out and slowly move a chunk at a time of the wires around the side of the chassis.

When reinstalling I wasn't able to immediately get the radio back in due to the cluster of wires. I had to run the Antennae lead above the new wiring rather than below. Once I got that done it fell right into place.

I have it paired with a 3Gs and so far people are telling me they hear me fine with the mic in the OEM location.

Other than that try not to do it in a 100 degree garage in the middle of the summer and you should be fine.


All in all I am really happy with it. Works well and only cost me about 130 in parts.

Thanks again everyone for the helpful input.
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Old 08-04-2010, 09:58 AM   #752
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Originally Posted by burnhamd View Post
I actually just want a picture of where it is and what it looks like. I have not seen one in person.

To use the microphone you need to decide a few things.
1. where to install the parrot.
Trunk- like mine
Behind dash like everone else.

if you use my method it will require a lot more work but work more similarly to oem and you would not have splice your microphone. However you would have to basically make another harness.

If you do it the regular way then you will have to cut the microphone cord somewhere in your dash and splice it to the parrot.

I can give you directions for both when you decide what you want.

It will involve shorting the two balanced connections together into an unbalanced jack. which is fairly easy. However there may need to be some gain correction (I havent done this yet).

Depending on whether you do do it or not I will buy the peice that covers the steering wheel and put the microphone there like the later model convertibles and your car.
Here are a couple pics. If you can tell me where the wires go I can intercept them somewhere. I'm currently leaning towards a dynavin install, but I'd still like to use this mic. I don't see why it wouldn't be possible with a dynavin.


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Old 08-05-2010, 02:51 PM   #753
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Originally Posted by RHLP3 View Post
....First and foremost I hate the glove box and hope this is the last time I will have to be upside down half in my car trying to get it back in place...
Cross your fingers you don't have to replace your Final Stage Resistor... http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=713544 like I have to next week

I've had no A/C for the last 3 days and now my battery is dead due to the fan not turning off when turning off the car.
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Old 08-05-2010, 11:05 PM   #754
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There's a whine that linked to the rpm of the engine. Anyone had this and knows how to deal with it? Please let it be something simple like a resistor. PEACE.
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Old 08-06-2010, 06:30 AM   #755
Arby1028
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Cross your fingers you don't have to replace your Final Stage Resistor... http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=713544 like I have to next week

I've had no A/C for the last 3 days and now my battery is dead due to the fan not turning off when turning off the car.
I had to do this a while back. Just be patient and take your time. A couple yoga classes prior to replacing the FSR is highly recommended!
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Old 08-06-2010, 03:42 PM   #756
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Originally Posted by Pimpwerx View Post
There's a whine that linked to the rpm of the engine. Anyone had this and knows how to deal with it? Please let it be something simple like a resistor. PEACE.
I dont have this particular problem but others have talked about it. A ground isolator loop would probably work. Check connections and if everything else is fine then that is pretty much your only option to get rid of it. (unless you want to install it in the trunk)
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Old 08-06-2010, 05:51 PM   #757
alexramsey
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Hey guys! Just got done with the install, everything went smoothly. Two tips for others: 1. If you want the vent to pull out quickly and easily, simply take your palm to the bottom of the vent and push up...then pull out as hard as you can. 2. The C/A connector is the hardest bit because you have to pull the connector up through the left of the headunit cage. I found that if you pull the cable to the connector up first, it frees up space...then flex the headunit cage to the right as much as possible and pull/push the connector up quickly.

I have a problem, however. I have a Motorola Droid X. I have successfully paired the device, but the phone says "Paired - Not Connected". When I make or receive calls, the phone does not use the bluetooth and the button for bluetooth on the call screen is grayed out. Anybody else had similar issues? Anybody know if I did something wrong?

One more question, if you press either of the buttons on the wheel...should anything happen (besides voice activated bluetooth because the Droid X doesn't have that until the Froyo update.)

Thanks. I will continue searching this thread, sorry if this question is a repeat...but I've only read 12 pages in the 35 or so on here...don't have that much time on my hands.
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Old 08-06-2010, 08:25 PM   #758
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I dont have this particular problem but others have talked about it. A ground isolator loop would probably work. Check connections and if everything else is fine then that is pretty much your only option to get rid of it. (unless you want to install it in the trunk)
Thanks. I'll see what a groun isolator loop is and try to get this sorted out. I ride around with the radio off a lot, so it's noticeable to me. PEACE.
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Old 08-06-2010, 09:49 PM   #759
steve.325i
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Originally Posted by burnhamd View Post
I dont have this particular problem but others have talked about it. A ground isolator loop would probably work. Check connections and if everything else is fine then that is pretty much your only option to get rid of it. (unless you want to install it in the trunk)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pimpwerx View Post
Thanks. I'll see what a groun isolator loop is and try to get this sorted out. I ride around with the radio off a lot, so it's noticeable to me. PEACE.
Hmmm a ground loop isolator is usually targeted at line level audio. It would be a little difficult to insert into the parrot/connect2 system.

A powerline noise filter may be more effective, but the question is where to put it. Both the 12V constant and the 12V ignition lines from the HU to the Connect2 would have to be filtered. Definitely a PIA.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_003S15A...t.html?tp=2653

I would check your connections first to make sure all connectors are completely seated. Disconnect & reconnect everything to make sure any oxidation is scrapped through.

Quote:
Originally Posted by alexramsey View Post
One more question, if you press either of the buttons on the wheel...should anything happen (besides voice activated bluetooth because the Droid X doesn't have that until the Froyo update.)
Sorry to hear that your phone won't connect. I only have used blackberry's. I would recommend resetting the Parrot to clear its pairring memory & retrying. Also, have you enabled bluetoooth handsfree on your phone - my phone has a bunch of options under bluetooth. Have you ever sucessfully used your phone with any other handsfree device? Just throwing a bunch of thoughts out there.
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:08 AM   #760
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Originally Posted by Pimpwerx View Post
There's a whine that linked to the rpm of the engine. Anyone had this and knows how to deal with it? Please let it be something simple like a resistor. PEACE.
I have a similar problem under different conditions. I didn't have a whine at first. Then I changed my speakers and increased the volume of the Parrot while I was at it. Since then, I get a loud popping sound when the cell pairs and whining. I suspect I need a ground loop isolator, but don't know where to place it.
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