BMW E46 Integrated Bluetooth and Voice Command for Less than $100 Pictorial DIY

Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox

prices have gone up since this DIY was first posted
so how much does this mod cost these days?

About 160-190 depending on the price you get the Connect2 for.

Also, what kind of 1/8" mic extender do I get? Anything special, or any will do. I have my mic ghetto rigged through the center of the car until I get an extension.

Great DIY. Getting the A connection pushed up to the vent area was challenging. Otherwise you laid out a great step by step. Thanks

Microphone sound was too muted...new placement/location.

Originally Posted by Cheechman7

Great DIY. Getting the A connection pushed up to the vent area was challenging. Otherwise you laid out a great step by step. Thanks

Microphone sound was too muted...new placement/location.

Has anyone experienced a glitch with this setup that doesn't allow you to adjust the volume of the stereo in your car? This is after a phone call or even pairing. I'm thinking that for whatever reason either the parrot or connect2 is interferring with my volume control. I have full control of everything with my business CD except the volume. To recover from it, I need to turn off my car (basically power cycling the setup) and turn it back on.

I have never had my HU volume become unresponsive and yes, I can really understand how that would be annoying.
The parrot doesn't have any direct communication with the HU, meaning I don't see anyway that the parrot (or eclipse) is your issue.

Additional notes from PM's with hohowan:

- Both steering wheel buttons and knob are unresponsive. I can turn off the radio, switch bands, audio source, and etc.

- Same time of the parrot install, also installed a resistor/diode pack on my aux connection: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=422239

Wow, this thread (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=422239) is 29 pages - lol.

I skimmed the first few pages & then jumped top the last and backed up until I found the charging topic. But I can't find any details though on how to add the charge circuitry to the aux cable.

I guess I am rushing too much, but my gut feeling is that you are going to have to remove one or the other in order to isolate it to know what is causing the issue. Please send a link it you can to the details of the charge circuit from the lighter.

Originally Posted by hohowan

Has anyone experienced a glitch with this setup that doesn't allow you to adjust the volume of the stereo in your car? This is NOT after a phone call or even pairing. I'm thinking that for whatever reason either the parrot or connect2 is interferring with my volume control. I have full control of everything with my business CD except the volume. To recover from it, I need to turn off my car (basically power cycling the setup) and turn it back on.

^edit

Its not so much a charge circuitry, but rather a noise filter so my Aux doesn't get disabled when I plug in my charger. I'm going to live with it for now, it rarely happens. If anyone else has experienced this please shoot me a PM. (see http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...&postcount=168)

So I've changed my location of my mic (I'll add a picture later when I get a chance) after doing the resitor mod to the mic. Obviously its not as stealth as the OEM location, but ppl can hear me now which is the point right.

Anyone else have problems with the OP's link for the Connects2 CTPPAR007? I bought one from that website and it hasnt come in in 4 weeks, I go online to look up the "lowcostcaraudio" reviews and they seem like a scam... over half of them said they had to get their money back from paypal.

Originally Posted by hohowan

... but rather a noise filter so my Aux doesn't get disabled when I plug in my charger ...

Ok, so now what I read matches your explaination ... if thats make any sense at all.

Unforntunately, it doesn't mean that I am any help to you.

Originally Posted by InterlagosBlau

Anyone else have problems with the OP's link for the Connects2 CTPPAR007? I bought one from that website and it hasnt come in in 4 weeks, I go online to look up the "lowcostcaraudio" reviews and they seem like a scam... over half of them said they had to get their money back from paypal.

Sorry about getting screwed. I went with ebay seller liquidice-2008.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CTPPAR007-BM...item2a0f685370

Around 85 after shipping from the UK.

Originally Posted by hohowan

^edit

So I've changed my location of my mic (I'll add a picture later when I get a chance) after doing the resitor mod to the mic. Obviously its not as stealth as the OEM location, but ppl can hear me now which is the point right.

Hohowan, where'd you move your mic to?

I've tried the OEM location and the A-pillar for my GROM IPD3 and still haven't been able to get quality sound. My parents won't even talk to me if I'm using the bluetooth.GROM is replacing my unit (hum/buzz at low RPMs rather than high RPMs) and I'm hoping to add a 1/8 watt 220ohm resistor as well as move the microphone yet again when I reinstall. I'm considering putting a hole near the sunroof controls and just slightly popping the mic out...sort of a compromise between stealth and functionality.

Has anyone integrated this setup with a dynavin unit? I say this because I lost my steering wheel bluetooth button with the dynavin unit, really miss the push to talk function of the parrot

Originally Posted by jojo12

Hohowan, where'd you move your mic to?

I've tried the OEM location and the A-pillar for my GROM IPD3 and still haven't been able to get quality sound. My parents won't even talk to me if I'm using the bluetooth.GROM is replacing my unit (hum/buzz at low RPMs rather than high RPMs) and I'm hoping to add a 1/8 watt 220ohm resistor as well as move the microphone yet again when I reinstall. I'm considering putting a hole near the sunroof controls and just slightly popping the mic out...sort of a compromise between stealth and functionality.

I ended up using the large loop clip that came with my CK3000 and attaching it around the rubber cable conduit going to the mirror. Then for some extra strain relief I ziptied the mic cable to the same conduit. I'll update this post this weekend with a pic.

Unfortunatley this doesnt apply to you since you didnt get the Parrot kit. Hopefully it gives you another idea though. Its not stealth but it also isnt stickied to the mirror, which I didnt want to do.

Sent using Bimmer App

I think I have a similar clip system for my Grom mic so I'll def look into experimenting with that and other locations to see where I get the best sound. I'm gonna try a few different places, as well as an 1/8 watt 220 ohm resistor, and post back where I end up permanently placing it.

Can anyone confirm how I'm supposed to add the resistor to the mic line? As far as I know, I simply need to cut the mic line somewhere and add the resistor in-line (as shown in video below). The guy at RadioShack didn't think the mic would be a sufficient power source for the resistor, any thoughts?

How to solder an in-line resistor:
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=713336874001

Originally Posted by jojo12

I think I have a similar clip system for my Grom mic so I'll def look into experimenting with that and other locations to see where I get the best sound. I'm gonna try a few different places, as well as an 1/8 watt 220 ohm resistor, and post back where I end up permanently placing it.

Can anyone confirm how I'm supposed to add the resistor to the mic line? As far as I know, I simply need to cut the mic line somewhere and add the resistor in-line (as shown in video below). The guy at RadioShack didn't think the mic would be a sufficient power source for the resistor, any thoughts?

How to solder an in-line resistor:
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=713336874001

Ok, not trying to pick on the guy from RadioShack because he probably didn't understand your exact setup, but he is incorrect.

The Parrot (and most small electronics) uses a condenser mic. This type of mic requires voltage applied to it for it to function. Typical condenser mic circuits have current limiting resistors in series with the mic to adjust the voltage on the mic. If the mic is driven too hard, then it becomes super sensitive and will clip the received audio.

The Parrot has a 1k0 (1000 ohm) inline resistor already to tune the mic. I played around with values and found that an additional 330 ohms gave me the desired sensitivity.

The first time I did this I added a 330 ohm resistor inside the mic casing. Then when I put the same system in my wife's suv, I found that it is actually easier to pop open the Parrot box and replace the 1k0 resistor with a 1k3 resistor. Yes this is 30 ohms less that my 'desired' value, but it's only 2% off and my testing was a little grey anyway.

Hope this helps.

Here is a link to some pics showing swapping the resistor out.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1104261...rotMicResistor#

You're a god among men Steve. Those pics and diagram are exactly what I was looking for. I'm going to try your suggestion of a 220 ohm resistor even though I have a different mic and see how it works. I'll hopefully get time to pick up that male to female extension and solder everything up in the next couple days while I wait for my new Grom unit to arrive. It's gonna be a busy week, I've got a bmw performance intake, e90 roof racks, and my Grom replacement coming soon!

Thanks again steve, I'm sure other people will find the pics helpful too.

I have the BMW business with mp3 and the iPhone 4 I paired it all up and everything works right but the steering wheel buttons don't work at all has anyone else had this problem?

Steve, where you find the parts for the patch cable you put together? Finding the mini-jack is easy, but I was unable to find a female mini-jack where I could unscrew the end in order to neatly hide/protect the resistor like you did. Is there a certain name for that part other than "unscrewable mini-jack female adapter"?

Originally Posted by jojo12

Steve, where you find the parts for the patch cable you put together? Finding the mini-jack is easy, but I was unable to find a female mini-jack where I could unscrew the end in order to neatly hide/protect the resistor like you did. Is there a certain name for that part other than "unscrewable mini-jack female adapter"?

I'm pretty sure I got mine at Radio Shack (now called The Source in Canada).

Digikey has them for $1.88

http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...3506-ND/724800

btw - mono is prefered. If you have to use a stereo connector, leave the center contact (# 2 in this picture) unconnected.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Jack_plug.png

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