Oil with Zinc for '63 Corvette?

A friend just acquired a beautiful '63 Corvette and is letting me play with it...(VCG and a wiring harness (some know the story)). Anyway, does anyone happen to know if Zinc comes in an oil or if there are particular Zinc additives that are good?

Or, is this an old wives tale that it does anything for a car this old with an engine so big?

Thanks guys...sure I'll post photos later!

Doug

sooooo he gets to screw your beagle and you get his car for a while. nice trade.

I've never heard of zinc being of any specific benefit to older cars. I think some lubricants do use some metals or other minerals/elements beyond hydrocarbons to enhance lubrication itself and other benefits (reducing surface oxidation). I would imagine that simply using a good, high-quality synthetic, changed regularly (both time and mileage on a rarely driven collectible) would provide 99% of any benefits you might otherwise realize with additional addititives.

Anyone else with more specific knowledge of older cars? Have bearing materials changed that much over the years for example that zinc might somehow help earlier compositions?

I used to know, but have since forgot. Sorry for the useless post.

I thought synthetics were bad for really old cars, and you should just use dinosaur oil?

Dino oil generally works better as synthetic is too thin and will seep through older style gaskets and seals. Certain additives might be of help. Your best bet is to hop onto a corvette forum and check it out.

What you mean by zinc is probably ZDDP (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate), which is better for older cars with flat tappets.

The e30 guys like Mobil1 15W50 and Valvoline VR1, neither of which should be hard to find at a local parts store. I'd lean towards dino oil as well, and I second the suggestion to go on 'Vette forums and see what they recommend.

Interesting and thanks...even for the useless post!

If he is running a hydraulic roller set up, and the engine was built to tight specs he will be fine. If he is running the original flat tappet set up, with regular rocker arms then he will need to use an engine oil that is deemed " high mileage" These have the added zinc that his engine will benefit from. It is not a good idea to run synthetic in an old motor as the tolerances are not as tight. It will not get the proper lubrication to all the bearings. Also synthetic oil loses viscosity when it over heats, and corvettes by nature run hotter (look at the angle of the radiator and it will explain a lot) The fan flows straight at a radiator that is slanted, with all sorts of obstacles in the way. My father actually uses diesel oil in his gas 89' 190E because of the higher zinc content.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf Here is a chart from mobil 1 showing that their high mileage forumla contains a higher PPM content of zinc. I am only assuming that this holds true for all "high mileage" oils.

oh and what I run in my classic cars is rotella by shell. Though I'm consulting my machinist on my current engine build to see if he can make it tight enough to run synthetic.

I own a 2004 Land Rover and use Rotella 15w40, which has ZDDP. My rover uses a v8 block design from a 60s Buick v8. Therefore tolerances aren't tight. ZDDP was stopped being put into regular dino oils because it kills catalytic converters. It is now strictly used for diesels and 'off road' cars. It acts as a detergent in the engine and increases bearing life on old engines. Since I cut my cats off anyway, I could obviously care less about it harming them. Being a 63 vette I assume it doesn't need a cat either. I would use it in that engine. It's good protection.

synthetic. dino oil is a myth.

Originally Posted by kuksul08

synthetic. dino oil is a myth.

explain? I've heard this too, but I've heard it the other way, both without clear explanations why.

I haven't seen a zinc additive by itself,but I did use original Harley Davidson oil in a '73 sportster. The label clearly noted there was a zinc additive in it. It was strongly reccomended by the shop and other experienced biker dudes. So oil like that is out there.

Edit: Look into Valvoline VR1 oil.
sent from my ATARI sc1224

Originally Posted by mcr_driver

Dino oil generally works better as synthetic is too thin and will seep through older style gaskets and seals. Certain additives might be of help. Your best bet is to hop onto a corvette forum and check it out.

Originally Posted by Vin Vega

If he is running a hydraulic roller set up, and the engine was built to tight specs he will be fine. If he is running the original flat tappet set up, with regular rocker arms then he will need to use an engine oil that is deemed " high mileage" These have the added zinc that his engine will benefit from. It is not a good idea to run synthetic in an old motor as the tolerances are not as tight. It will not get the proper lubrication to all the bearings. Also synthetic oil loses viscosity when it over heats, and corvettes by nature run hotter (look at the angle of the radiator and it will explain a lot) The fan flows straight at a radiator that is slanted, with all sorts of obstacles in the way. My father actually uses diesel oil in his gas 89' 190E because of the higher zinc content.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf Here is a chart from mobil 1 showing that their high mileage forumla contains a higher PPM content of zinc. I am only assuming that this holds true for all "high mileage" oils.

oh and what I run in my classic cars is rotella by shell. Though I'm consulting my machinist on my current engine build to see if he can make it tight enough to run synthetic.

Originally Posted by atinybug

explain? I've heard this too, but I've heard it the other way, both without clear explanations why.

Refer to posts above for a clear answer.

Originally Posted by atinybug

explain? I've heard this too, but I've heard it the other way, both without clear explanations why.

I believe the issue is that using synthetic after dino has been used for a long time will cause issues because the synthetic oil will expose poor sealing/gasketing where dino sludge has kept things 'sealed'. Also it may break apart sludge deposits and if it's bad enough, clog critical oil passages.

On a new engine (not modern, but brand new from factory) there is no reason to ever use dino oil.

edit: ...other than cost, although synthetic can sustain longer intervals so the increased cost is offset by the more infrequent changing.