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Bavarian Soundwerks' Mobile Electronics Forum
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Old 12-30-2009, 12:54 AM   #1
msb046
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Question :( Need help with DICE and/or wiring problem

I just installed the BSW d.110 sub and amp with no problems - it was working great for a day. Then I installed the DICE silverline pro, which was working okay (didn't work out all the bugs/programming yet), but about an hour after installation the battery was drained to the point where the engine wouldn't turn over. I jumped it the next morning and drove it around all day, then tried playing with a few settings on the dice unit and the battery was drained again after about 15-20 minutes after very little music playing. The battery only has 10,000 miles on it, so i'm wondering if there could be a problem with my wiring? Any help would be much appreciated.

*When I tried to start the car when the engine wouldn't turn over, sometimes the HU would turn on and the headlights would flash, other times it wouldn't and the headlights wouldn't flash (not sure if it is relevant or whether there wasn't enough charge left in battery)
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Old 12-30-2009, 01:38 AM   #2
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did you ever just listen to your radio after installing the sub and amp? i actually did something similar and my battery drained pretty quickly. i had my battery disconnected while installing a few things, then after installing my sub my battery died pretty quickly..
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Old 12-30-2009, 02:36 PM   #3
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yeah, i'm pretty sure i listened to it several times for a few minutes each with no problem before I installed the DICE hookup. Also, I drive a 2001 330xi. Is my best bet just to buy a multimeter and start measuring voltage drops? Where should i test?
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Old 12-30-2009, 07:28 PM   #4
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i would like to know this as well. going to have to test out my battery now..
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Old 12-30-2009, 11:57 PM   #5
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bump
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Old 12-31-2009, 12:12 AM   #6
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You will need to perform a draw test and start disconnecting devices one by one to see which is draining your battery. A multimeter is required.
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Old 12-31-2009, 01:13 AM   #7
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could you explain where I should be taking the readings with the multimeter? The only devices connected are the DICE and the bsw d110 amp. Also, has not run down today since i disconnected the DICE completely.
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Old 12-31-2009, 10:02 AM   #8
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could you explain where I should be taking the readings with the multimeter? The only devices connected are the DICE and the bsw d110 amp. Also, has not run down today since i disconnected the DICE completely.
With the Dice diconnected, pop fuse # 41.

Set the Multimeter in DC A mode = direct current amperes. DC is usually marked by a horizontal solid bar over a horzontal dotted bar.

http://support.moonpoint.com/hardwar...ct-current.gif

Set the multimeter in the highest current setting (ie. 10A) and put the probes in COM & 10A locations.

Place the probes on both contacts of fuse #41 and take a current measurement. it should be near zero. if it is not, then it could be the amp, but I think you have already ruled that out.

Connect the Dice back up - with iPod disconnected - and repeat the current measurement.

Connect the iPod to the Dice and again repeat the current measurement.
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Old 01-02-2010, 03:04 AM   #9
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Thanks Tom and Steve for the advice...

so i bought a cheap multimeter and it only measures current up to 250mA (stupid me). Is there anyway I can salvage it and measure the voltage drop across fuse 41 and a ground, or do i need to buy a better DMM? Also, While playing with some settings on the DICE the battery ran down (again) within the timespan of 15 minutes. I did notice that after turning the car off (before and after the battery went down) there was a whirring sound behind the dashboard and some strange noises that are new to me. Also, with the car off and key out of ignition it looked like the ipod was still charging so I unplugged it. The DICE alone continued drawing current from the battery since I didn't leave the ipod in for more then 15 seconds after the car was off. Any ideas what could be wrong?
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Old 01-02-2010, 03:06 AM   #10
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On a similar note what is everyone's opinion on those portable battery starters? Is there a decent one for under $100?
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:01 AM   #11
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Thanks Tom and Steve for the advice...

so i bought a cheap multimeter and it only measures current up to 250mA (stupid me). Is there anyway I can salvage it and measure the voltage drop across fuse 41 and a ground, or do i need to buy a better DMM? Also, While playing with some settings on the DICE the battery ran down (again) within the timespan of 15 minutes. I did notice that after turning the car off (before and after the battery went down) there was a whirring sound behind the dashboard and some strange noises that are new to me. Also, with the car off and key out of ignition it looked like the ipod was still charging so I unplugged it. The DICE alone continued drawing current from the battery since I didn't leave the ipod in for more then 15 seconds after the car was off. Any ideas what could be wrong?
The only way to effectively measure current with a voltmeter is to measure teh voltage across a 'sense' resistor. The fuse doesn't have enough resistance to develop a measurable voltage drop across it.

If you substitute the fuse for a 0.1 ohm resistor - tough to find - and the measure the voltage across it, every 0.1 volt measured would equate to 1 amp being drawn through the resistor.

Propably easier to get a meter that can handle higher current.

But I agree with you ... it sounds like the culprit is the Dice box or wiring. When you disconnect the Dice, are you disconnecting it at the trunck interface or at the Dice 12-pin connector?
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Old 01-02-2010, 01:45 PM   #12
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I disconnected at both the trunk interface and the 12-pin. Do you think it's safe to assume its the DICE unit or the DICE wiring? Should I just request a new box? I ordered from BSW.
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Old 01-02-2010, 09:04 PM   #13
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So everything went to ****. Now I think I have a wiring problem because suddenly the speakers started cutting in and out, then just went out (while the sub keeps playing) and power to the head unit flickers on and off. Also, I have the warning lights for ABS and DSC turning on too, and the battery is not charged because I didn't want to drive it around after that stuff started happneing (driving it around for 25 minutes wasn't enough). All this was done after the DICE tether was unclipped. Any ideas what wire could have a loose connection?

Update: This is explained by the alternator failure and the charge on the battery running low.

Last edited by msb046; 01-03-2010 at 07:25 PM.
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Old 01-02-2010, 09:09 PM   #14
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Sounds like you have a short somewhere in your system - possibly affecting ibus. Try tracing what harness, wiring or module is causing this.
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Old 01-02-2010, 09:24 PM   #15
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Sounds like you have a short somewhere in your system - possibly affecting ibus. Try tracing what harness, wiring or module is causing this.
I'm new to wiring. What is the best way to do this?
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Old 01-02-2010, 09:38 PM   #16
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I'm new to wiring. What is the best way to do this?
Bringing it to a professional is best if you have no experience with your BMW's electrical system.
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Old 01-02-2010, 09:42 PM   #17
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Bringing it to a professional is best if you have no experience with your BMW's electrical system.
Any idea what the cost would be? I'm interested in learning (I did the sub and amp install myself and it seemed straightforward) so if it is possible for me to do it, I'd like to. Also, I'm wondering if it is a loose connection from one of my crimping jobs.
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Old 01-02-2010, 09:49 PM   #18
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Any idea what the cost would be? I'm interested in learning (I did the sub and amp install myself and it seemed straightforward) so if it is possible for me to do it, I'd like to. Also, I'm wondering if it is a loose connection from one of my crimping jobs.
Without seeing the car in person, it would be nearly impossible to diagnose over the internet. Try returning the car to its previous state and installing the items one at a time.
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:46 PM   #19
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Any idea what the cost would be? I'm interested in learning (I did the sub and amp install myself and it seemed straightforward) so if it is possible for me to do it, I'd like to. Also, I'm wondering if it is a loose connection from one of my crimping jobs.
Sorry to leave you hanging. I have to agree with Tom on this. Something is shorting out that shouldn't be, but you already know that.

Crimping anything can cut through the intended connection instead of splicing it - especially when working under the dash.

Any time you tape a bundle of connections together, stray wires may come in contact - especially when chrimp connections are made.

I would start by seperating all connections that you made one by one. You should be able to find it.

Do you have a buddy who can solder?
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Old 01-03-2010, 04:19 PM   #20
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Checked all my wiring - redid my crimping of the remote turn-on wire which may have been the problem. Also put some electrical tape around the edges of other crimps just to make sure they were not shorting. I tucked away all wires neatly to decrease chance of shorts. Then I jumped my car, leaving the leads on for about 5 minutes, and the speakers worked fine. So I turned the car off and installed the sub and tried to start and the engine almost turned over. Then I jumped again and car and radio worked fine. As began driving the brake, warning, and ABS lights went off.

Then I went to drive it around for 40 minutes. About 20 minutes into the drive every few minutes the battery light would flash on. A few minutes later I noticed that when the bass started getting real loud in songs that the speakers would cut out for a second or so (like it was drawing more current than the alternator or battery could provide). Turning the volume down real low made this better. Then the battery light began to flash on more frequently as I headed home. In my garage I turned the car off. Then tried to roll up the windows which went up VERY slowly like there was almost no charge left in the battery. As the car turned off there was a strange whine starting high pitch and going down coming from the under the hood. The battery seemed totally dead and teh lights didn't even flash when I tested the ignition again.

Do you think the alternator is bad? the battery? battery is OEM replaced about 10-15k ago, but could my previously bad connections have killed it or killed the alternator?

Could I have blown a fuse?

Update:

Wanted to test the alternator so I measure the voltage at the battery terminals.

With car off: 9.5 volts
Engine jumped and running: 10.9 volts
as the car ran with music on, the battery continued to drain slowly.

Does this mean my alternator or voltage regulator is bad? Could I have caused this with my wiring? Car is 2001 and has 95k miles and is on original alternator.

Last edited by msb046; 01-03-2010 at 06:37 PM.
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