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Old 01-09-2010, 12:01 PM   #1
jmac55
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2000 323i Woes!!

My first thread so don't be too hard on me, please. My 2000 323i immediately goes into "limp" mode when I start the engine, creating obd codes p0601, p1542 & p0120 each time. Recent repairs are: replaced both cam position sensors (oem), vanos rebuild (Beisan by Raj w/my so-called help), MAF sensor cleaned and a new battery. After obtaining operating temperature I can turn the car off & then back on the car runs great with no limp lights but MIL on & aforesaid codes. Can go anywhere at any pace. After warm-up, I clear codes with my Actron scanner and no more codes regardless of miles driven or how driven. The next day situation is repeated. Any suggestions or help?
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Old 01-09-2010, 01:19 PM   #2
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Try the throttle reset directions in this post.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=631647
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Old 01-09-2010, 04:04 PM   #3
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Hi Raj!! Long time no see. I've tried the throttle reset many times. Still doing the same as it did on the test drive after you & I rebuilt the vanos except now I also get the 601 code. Did good after new battery but cold weather really shuts it down. Good to hear from you.
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Old 01-09-2010, 04:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmac55 View Post
My first thread so don't be too hard on me, please. My 2000 323i immediately goes into "limp" mode when I start the engine, creating obd codes p0601, p1542 & p0120 each time. Recent repairs are: replaced both cam position sensors (oem), vanos rebuild (Beisan by Raj w/my so-called help), MAF sensor cleaned and a new battery. After obtaining operating temperature I can turn the car off & then back on the car runs great with no limp lights but MIL on & aforesaid codes. Can go anywhere at any pace. After warm-up, I clear codes with my Actron scanner and no more codes regardless of miles driven or how driven. The next day situation is repeated. Any suggestions or help?
P0601 Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Error

P1542 Pedal Position Sensor Electrical

P0120 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Malfunction

I would look into diagnosing the switch built into the gas pedal for the second two codes, no clue on the first code. I've never had to deal with either of these codes so I don't know what else to suggest
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Old 01-09-2010, 05:13 PM   #5
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Thanks cancell. From what I've read & depending on where the info comes from, there is no TPS on the gas pedal. Only a kick-down for the tranny.
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Old 01-09-2010, 05:28 PM   #6
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Lol sorry. I didn't think before I replied but with the code provided, it points towards the Throttle Position Switch in the throttle body connected to the intake and/or the pedal for drive by wire systems(which your car and mine do not have). I would start there and if you do find that it is faulty, let me know because I think I have an extra one that should be good.
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Old 01-09-2010, 08:28 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by jmac55 View Post
Hi Raj!! Long time no see. I've tried the throttle reset many times. Still doing the same as it did on the test drive after you & I rebuilt the vanos except now I also get the 601 code. Did good after new battery but cold weather really shuts it down. Good to hear from you.

Hi J!! Didn't realize it was you. I provided that link since you provided it to me and said it worked. I guess it didn't.
Your P0601 code is concerning. I don't know if I've seen this before. Take a look at this recent post.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...&postcount=140
You might have someone with a GT-1 reprogram your DME. You might need a new DME.

I presume the throttle position sensor is part of the throttle. I don't know about a pedal position sensor.

Is your vanos still rattling since the repair
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Old 01-09-2010, 09:55 PM   #8
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Please consider getting factory codes before spending money on parts or labor. Your Actron scanner is a generic OBDII tool that does not read BMW's vehicle specific codes, which may provide you with better information leading to a faster diagnosis.

Have a look at the article in my signature titled "Is your check engine light on?" You'll find descriptions of your car's diagnostic system, the difference between OBDII (and so-called 'manufacturer specific' OBDII) and BMW's chassis/ECU specific fault codes. We use, carry, and strongly recommend using a tool like the Peake Research R5/FCX3 - which is BMW-specific, and costs about the same as a trip to the dealer for diagnostics.

ken@bimmertools.com if you have any questions about the article or the tools we carry.

Best of luck from a fellow 2000 323i driver!

Ken
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Old 01-10-2010, 05:54 AM   #9
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Hey Raj. The adaptation did work in that the throttle response greatly improved. Didn't solve the limp problem. Just checked my car (25 degrees outside) & all I have to do is turn the switch on to get limp mode. Lights came on & didn't go out, cranked car & got the SOS. Yeah, still have the rattle but apparently works great. Thanks Ken for your input. I think I'll invest in a BMW specific tool so I'm going to do a little research to determine which one based on my usage, the cost & the capability of the tool. Don't know how much the charge would be to reprogram, if that'll solve the problem, but that will be factored in too. At least I'll be looking at the BMW codes.
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Old 01-25-2010, 10:33 AM   #10
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I am having a similar problem, and instead of starting my own thread I'll just piggyback this one.

My '99 323i will intermittently (twice in the last month) spit the check engine, EML, and stability control light, then go into limp-mode much like the OPs car.

But unlike the OP, my car doesn't do it all the time. If I let the car sit for a minute after limp-home is triggered, the EML and stability lights will turn themselves off, and using a generic OBDII scanner to clear the engine light, I also get the P1542.

So, do i just have the bum pedal sensor?
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:17 AM   #11
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What was the fix?

Hey fellas - I know this is an ancient post, but I'm hoping you can post up the final resolution to this problem. I just had the same problem this morning on my way to work - have not pulled codes yet, but symptoms are the same as yours. Thanks
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Old 12-01-2010, 11:10 AM   #12
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When mine was doing in the limp mode phase I clean the Throtle Body and it was fine after that
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:26 AM   #13
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Hi E46's fans, what update for the problem?
I got same one, same 323i 1999 ( this early-E46 has cable ,throttle different with post 2000 no cable)
still fighting badly, order THROTTLE unit, will come next week.
If any update, please post here , all of us will appreciate .
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:40 AM   #14
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I took off my throttle body, cleaned it like crazy, cleaned the mating surface, lubricated the linkage and cable, and replaced the gasket. I also cleaned the ICV while I was in there; it was really gunked up. I also sprayed all electrical connections that I unplugged with an electronics cleaner. I have about 700 miles on it since I cleaned everything, and it has been running great since (knock on wood).

My local shop told me that sometimes the throttle bodies do just need to be cleaned, but that replacing the engine wiring harness and the occasional throttle body replacement are not unusual. Once I have a few thousand miles on it I will feel more confident - if it happens again I will have my shop check it out. Good luck and post your results please!
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Old 12-17-2010, 11:41 AM   #15
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I too have done all this stuff. Finally, I had to replace the throttle body for a permanent fix. Pre-00 will be the blue label ones.
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Old 12-17-2010, 11:46 AM   #16
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I too have done all this stuff. Finally, I had to replace the throttle body for a permanent fix. Pre-00 will be the blue label ones.
Did you have to get the new throttle body programmed by a shop with the BMW computer, or were you able to just bolt it on and go? Any problems since then? Did cleaning it fix the problem at all, even if just for a short period of time?
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Old 12-17-2010, 11:50 AM   #17
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Did you have to get the new throttle body programmed by a shop with the BMW computer, or were you able to just bolt it on and go? Any problems since then? Did cleaning it fix the problem at all, even if just for a short period of time?
It is plug and play to replace, no coding needed. No problems since them. Cleaning bought me about 4 days and then I got stuck in limp mode 40 miles from home. Pain! It isn't worth the fight IMO. I have a source for throttle bodies for $125 used if you want PM me and I'll give you the info.
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:49 PM   #18
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any updates on this? Im stuck on limp mode with the same generic codes.
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