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Old 05-02-2012, 11:28 PM   #21
jbehr99
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Usaf-wx, sorry to bring up an old thread, but I am having the exact same problem. The funny thing is, it started AFTER I changed the transmission fluid at 180K. In the morning it revs high, but after it starts to heat up it goes back to normal. Did you guys ever figure out what is the problem?
I am having the same exact problem also. I have a GM tranny and I just changed the fluid last weekend with 65,000 miles on the car. I used the fluid from the dealer Dexron VI and the OEM filter and gasket from the dealer. In the morning the car revs high but doesn't move very much. Once I get to the end of the street, about a block, the car seems to run normal. If anyone has any insight into this problem or solutions that would be great. I did not have this problem before I changed the fluid, it is just starting now. I can not think of anything that went wrong. I made sure during the whole fluid change process everything went exactly how it was supposed to.
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Old 05-02-2012, 11:37 PM   #22
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same issue here..
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:26 AM   #23
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I am having the same exact problem also. I have a GM tranny and I just changed the fluid last weekend with 65,000 miles on the car. I used the fluid from the dealer Dexron VI and the OEM filter and gasket from the dealer. In the morning the car revs high but doesn't move very much. Once I get to the end of the street, about a block, the car seems to run normal. If anyone has any insight into this problem or solutions that would be great. I did not have this problem before I changed the fluid, it is just starting now. I can not think of anything that went wrong. I made sure during the whole fluid change process everything went exactly how it was supposed to.
Thanks
Someone told me it's a software issue, the "adaptations" needs to be reset. I called my dealer, they wanted more than 200. A fellow fanatic told me to disconnect the battery and this will reset the adaptations? I did, the car seems better, but the real test will be in the morning when the vehicle is cold. I am keeping my finger and eyes crossed. maybe you guys can do the same and we can all report back
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:23 AM   #24
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Someone told me it's a software issue, the "adaptations" needs to be reset. I called my dealer, they wanted more than 200. A fellow fanatic told me to disconnect the battery and this will reset the adaptations? I did, the car seems better, but the real test will be in the morning when the vehicle is cold. I am keeping my finger and eyes crossed. maybe you guys can do the same and we can all report back
you can reset the adaptations by: turn the key to the second on position, but dont turn your engine on. Keep it in that position for 10 seconds. Then turn your key to the off position for another 10 seconds without taking the key out. Then turn your car on and it is all done.

this actually made my car more responsive but did not fix the problem. don't waste your money on the dealer software... it won't work
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Old 05-03-2012, 06:52 AM   #25
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All this information is great. When I get back from school I will disconnect the battery and report back tomorrow with the results. If this fails, then I will try the turn key method. With the battery, should I leave it disconnected over night, or just for like 20 min?
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:14 AM   #26
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you can reset the adaptations by: turn the key to the second on position, but dont turn your engine on. Keep it in that position for 10 seconds. Then turn your key to the off position for another 10 seconds without taking the key out. Then turn your car on and it is all done.

this actually made my car more responsive but did not fix the problem. don't waste your money on the dealer software... it won't work
update: wow, what can i say, disconnecting the battery and Key sequence made my car A LOT more responsive, too. I think she is back to normal(fingers crossed).

but it didn't fix the problem for you though? What I did notice is that she revved at 1500rpm upon starting, lasted for about 1-2 minutes, then came down to 1000rpm. After that I took her for a drive and things seemed ok, no high revs, even when aggressively accelerating on the streets. i then took her on the freeway, tried aggressive accelerating from 65 to 80, and it seemed ok, except that my car is getting older does not reach as fast as it used lol . I am still gonna check the trans oil level today. Thanks, I think you just saved me at least $200
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:13 PM   #27
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update: car back is completely back to normal,,, gosh damn,,, who would have thought that a key sequence and/or disconnecting the battery would help....I also have to say that I put in 1 more quart of trans oil today even after I had the shop change and fill trans oil last week and made sure to fill all the way to fill hole. and No i did not have an oil leak. I don't know why I would need 1 more quart, but guys I know u had your oil changed, do yourself a favor, take it back to the shop, have them lift the car, make sure it is plane/horizontal, check the level, make sure it is full. My car's high revs and sluggish acceleration are gone, outta here, caput, done...
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Old 05-03-2012, 03:39 PM   #28
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All this information is great. When I get back from school I will disconnect the battery and report back tomorrow with the results. If this fails, then I will try the turn key method. With the battery, should I leave it disconnected over night, or just for like 20 min?
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyhead View Post
update: wow, what can i say, disconnecting the battery and Key sequence made my car A LOT more responsive, too. I think she is back to normal(fingers crossed).

but it didn't fix the problem for you though? What I did notice is that she revved at 1500rpm upon starting, lasted for about 1-2 minutes, then came down to 1000rpm. After that I took her for a drive and things seemed ok, no high revs, even when aggressively accelerating on the streets. i then took her on the freeway, tried aggressive accelerating from 65 to 80, and it seemed ok, except that my car is getting older does not reach as fast as it used lol . I am still gonna check the trans oil level today. Thanks, I think you just saved me at least $200
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update: car back is completely back to normal,,, gosh damn,,, who would have thought that a key sequence and/or disconnecting the battery would help....I also have to say that I put in 1 more quart of trans oil today even after I had the shop change and fill trans oil last week and made sure to fill all the way to fill hole. and No i did not have an oil leak. I don't know why I would need 1 more quart, but guys I know u had your oil changed, do yourself a favor, take it back to the shop, have them lift the car, make sure it is plane/horizontal, check the level, make sure it is full. My car's high revs and sluggish acceleration are gone, outta here, caput, done...
it seems like your oil level was low. disconnecting the battery doesn't do ****. and when you reset the adaptation it will seem more responsive for a week or two then the issues come back. ATs in our cars are sucks ass. Someone need to write up a DCT retrofit
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:31 PM   #29
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ah man ! really? But remember, I did the key sequence and disconnected the battery last night and there was a difference. Only this morning did i add more oil, but since last night the car has been good. Time will tell I guess...My next car is likely gonna be stick, but hate shifting all the time, stop and go, can't play with my girl, etc,,,,ugh
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:29 PM   #30
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I added another quart of fluid to the transmission yesterday and the car is now running perfectly. Looks like the problem is solved now.
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Old 05-07-2012, 12:28 AM   #31
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ya i guess i needed one more quart, too....car is still running great
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:13 AM   #32
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Thanks, only did it twice, when the engine was cold, today it didnt even do it when the engine was cold. so i likely have a software issue? thought mine was cable driven. lets hope its a software issue. thanks for the input.
You are confusing two seperate things. The transmission is controlled by a cable, in that there is a cable and linkage, actually, I think it is just linkage, that switches the transmission from Park to Neutral, to Drive, etc. Buy all e46 transmissions have a TCM, a Transmission control module. It has software loaded in it (simplified explanation) that controls how the transmission works, when it shifts, and how it shifts. The TCM is controlling the shift points, and communicating with the engine controller, and things like that.
This is not a situation like the throttle by wire, which replaces an actual throtle cable to an electrical signal transmitted via a wire, and you seem to have these things mixed up.

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car is at 70,000 miles, kinda nervous about doing a transmission fluid change at this point. How can I check if Im leaking or low on fluid?
There is a plug on the side of the transmission that you have to remove, and stick your finger in to make sure the fluid is up to the level of the plug (real high tech sh!t, right?). The trick is, that the car has to be level, which means ramps in the front, with jack stands in the rear, adjusted so it is level, or 2 sets of jack stands, again, with the car level.
It was too complicated for BMW to put an actual dipstick in the damn car. The truth is, they wanted to make sure that only the bravest and most determined people would actually check their fluid level, rather than have a dealer raise it up on a lift and check it for them (that will be $150, please).
If you get under your car, you can look for leaks around the transmission pan, the drain plug, the fill/fluid level plug, the transmission cooler, which connects to the transmission, and runs through 2 solid lines to the front of the car, and connects to a cooler under the radiator Expansion Tank.
As far as being worried about changing the fluid, there is no need to be worried, if you have a well functioning transmission. You are actually 30k miles ahead of BMW's reccomended service interval. And a transmission fluid change would not hurt a transmission that has no problems, despite the rumors you have heard. It would actually be good for it.
The problems start when someone in a situation like you have, with a malfunctioning transmission, decides to get a fluid change, and then some time later, the transmission dies, and they post something like "OMG! I changed my transmission fluid, and now my transmission is dead! It had to be that fluid change!"
I'm not saying that you personally would do that, but there are plenty of people who have, which is why people like you are nervous about a simple fluid change. That BMW fluid is synthetic, but it does not take on some magical properties that hold a transmission together, unless someone makes the crazy decision to let the magic out by putting in new fluid and a filter. When these people who posted these claims had their transmission replaced, most likely with a used unit from a wrecked car, what do you think happens when that transmission is installed? They change out the filter, and add new fluid to it! The exact thing they claim was the cause of their transmission dying! Now, does that make any sense?
I would risk angering the magic BMW transmission fluid Gods, and do a fluid and filter change. When the fluid is drained out, I would disconnect the transmission cooler lines, and blow out the transmission cooler, just to make sure some sort of blockage has not developed in there. Then, refill it, and hope for the best.
It is somewhat likely that it may not help, and that your transmission is dying. But if it is, leaving the old fluid in there is not going to help it, and new fluid may even make it last a bit longer. But you may want to prepare yourself for the fact that your transmission may be on its way out.
You have my sympathies. I hope it is as simple as a software update, and that all of this works out. But I would change out that fluid and filter anyway. You are actually at the perfect milage to do so.
As far as the people who say changing the ATF change was the cause of a transmission dying, I would love to hear from someone who will swear that their transmission was working perfectly beforehand, that it had never once hesitated while switching into reverse, and that their transmission died after a correctly performed transmission fluid change, with BMW fluid, and Genuine BMW filter, installed by someone with a decent knowledge of BMW's, working with the proper tools, and a proper check for leaks and correct fluid level after the car was driven for a few hundred miles.


EDIT: For some reason, I did not notice the second page of posts before I posted all of this info about how to check the level, etc. I blame my iPad, which does not always display the second page. Sorry for some useless information. If your fluid was low, it will definitely cause issues. But you may want to look for a reason why it was low. I would check on that software update as well. Also, disconnecting your battery does not reset anything in your transmission.

Last edited by MJLavelle; 05-07-2012 at 02:19 AM. Reason: I was a dumb ass, and missed page 2!
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Old 05-07-2012, 11:13 AM   #33
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MJLavelle: you info IS useful. I thought my high revs were due to needing a adaptations reset, it was not, it was due to a low fluid level. and yes disconnecting the battery didn't do much, Pedi was right
OP: I probably have the record, 181K and first transmission oil change, the car runs way better. Go for it. Just make sure to check the level again at some point after driving the car just to make sure it remains full. You have two guys here who checked their levels a week later and need 1 more quart, no there were no leaks, but for whatever reason it needed 1 more quart
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:58 PM   #34
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mjlavelle: You info is useful. I thought my high revs were due to needing a adaptations reset, it was not, it was due to a low fluid level. And yes disconnecting the battery didn't do much, pedi was right
op: I probably have the record, 181k and first transmission oil change, the car runs way better. Go for it. Just make sure to check the level again at some point after driving the car just to make sure it remains full. You have two guys here who checked their levels a week later and need 1 more quart, no there were no leaks, but for whatever reason it needed 1 more quart
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:58 PM   #35
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Usaf-wx, sorry to bring up an old thread, but I am having the exact same problem. The funny thing is, it started AFTER I changed the transmission fluid at 180K. In the morning it revs high, but after it starts to heat up it goes back to normal. Did you guys ever figure out what is the problem?
Hmmm...have you guys ever considered that your gears are cold and don't want to engage properly? Mine has been doing this since I bought it. It revs till 3 or 4 and then changes. If you figured out the trick, you can let go of the gas and it usually changes, or give it more gas. Hope you guys arent idling your cars in the morning. The owner's manual states that you should take off right away after starting. Your gears should be up and running within 5 minutes of country road, and 10 minutes of city driving.

PS: Just a fun fact, the old Ferrari Daytona's 2nd Gear would not engage until at normal operating temps. Yes, a FERRARI. Drivers would have to switch from 1st to 3rd in order to prevent gearbox destruction.

Lesson: They are machines, and machines will perform like all machines.
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:38 AM   #36
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Sweetness - what do u think of this article, it states we don't need more than 10-30 seconds idling? I think Ferrari's are on a league compared to their own...
http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/auto...car-in-winter/
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:10 PM   #37
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Sweetness - what do u think of this article, it states we don't need more than 10-30 seconds idling? I think Ferrari's are on a league compared to their own...
http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/auto...car-in-winter/
Both reinforcing my points. I outlined that above. And if Ferrari's were in a league of their own, why do they have the same issue of gear stick? Actually, I'm pretty sure that 90% of cars have this
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:50 PM   #38
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Sweetness - what do u think of this article, it states we don't need more than 10-30 seconds idling? I think Ferrari's are on a league compared to their own...
http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/auto...car-in-winter/
As this article proves, Yahoo News is an oxymoron. It is nothing more than some idiot Journalism School Graduate that:
- Did not have the foresight 4 to 6 years ago to see that a career in Journalisim, working at a newspaper or a magazine, was about as useful as getting a degree in Typewriter Repair.
- Is a person that has no knowledge of the subject they are writing about
- Is also a person who is not actually not writing anything, but is just collecting snippets of articles written by people who also don't have a lot of knowledge of the particular subject they are writing about.

Seriously, Yahoo News just collects pieces of other websites articles, and strings them together into something that looks like it could be a news story. They don't interview people, they take a piece of an interview of a person, and then post a link to the actual interview. I particularly liked the advice that leaving a car idling while running into a store or coffee shop was bad for the environment. It is also bad for the car, if you want it to be there when you get back. This applies to about 2% of Americans who actually live in a town where there is not a single meth head that would jump into a running car and sell it for $50, which is like one Amish town in Ohio. Hell, even they have the sense to tie up their horses and buggies.
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:33 PM   #39
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How long did you disconnected you battery for? Both terminals? The (-) minus is easier to remove on my 2003 325xi wagon....
thanks....
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyhead View Post
update: wow, what can i say, disconnecting the battery and Key sequence made my car A LOT more responsive, too. I think she is back to normal(fingers crossed).

but it didn't fix the problem for you though? What I did notice is that she revved at 1500rpm upon starting, lasted for about 1-2 minutes, then came down to 1000rpm. After that I took her for a drive and things seemed ok, no high revs, even when aggressively accelerating on the streets. i then took her on the freeway, tried aggressive accelerating from 65 to 80, and it seemed ok, except that my car is getting older does not reach as fast as it used lol . I am still gonna check the trans oil level today. Thanks, I think you just saved me at least $200
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Old 05-10-2012, 12:46 AM   #40
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How long did you disconnected you battery for? Both terminals? The (-) minus is easier to remove on my 2003 325xi wagon....
thanks....
the (-) terminal for 5 minutes
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