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Old 02-14-2011, 02:45 PM   #41
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BMW calibrated the dip stick to read accurately when the reading is taken 5 minutes after engine shutdown. This is contained in the owners manual.
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Old 02-14-2011, 03:10 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EmFiftyFour View Post
I think dip sticks are very inaccurate when a car has been run. Unless it was checked on a cold engine, I never trust what that dipstick says. Mine looks dry if I pull the dip stick out after a drive, meanwhile the system is full. Thats cause the oil still hasnt drained back down into the pan. Any dumb shade tree mechanic would call that dry and overfill the system.
I think they're very accurate, but agree that it takes a while for the oil to return to drain pan.

If I measure mine at five minutes after shut down, I know it will be low (still within range, but apparently down at least a 1/2 qt.)...an hour later, pretty close to full, but in the a.m., it will be at the same level it was when I drained it, shook off the last drops, and refilled with 6.9 qts....maybe just a tad lower now.

But you fill it cold and if you wait long enough after that, it should be right at the bottom of the top notch...give or take just a tiny bit.

If you fill oil based on the dipstick, you're assuming the dipstick/guidetube are correct...and they're not always...usually I'm sure they are, but mine wasn't!
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Old 02-14-2011, 06:01 PM   #43
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It really shouldnt be that hard. But wait till you see how fun removing the old gasket will be from the valve cover I know mine was almost fused with the valve cover, and only came off in bits and peices. Took me forever.
Ah... maybe that's what I was trying to do... Maybe I didn't have my putty knife in the right place and was, in fact, trying to separate the VC from the gasket instead of the gasket from the cylinder head.

However, I must digress to the broader question: Can I have 200 - 220 psi across all cylinders during a COLD compression test at 45F and still have a bad HG?

What specialized tools are needed to swap a head gasket (in a perfect world if I could just outright buy every tool I needed for the job)??

What else should get replaced while doing the head gasket? I would assume miscellaneous gaskets/seals, etc. Is there a kit out there for this engine? Perhaps the timing chain tensioner?

I will, at a minimum, want to replace the PCV hose, coolant hoses, waterpump, thermostat, expansion tank, and potentially the radiator if it is seriously clogged with milky mix... How much do you guys think this adds up to?

The crappy part is that I'll be away from the car for work for up to 5 weeks and I NEED to get this car running which means I have to make a part buying / tool renting decision a few weeks before I get back so it's all there, ready to go when I get back.

Any and all input is appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 02-14-2011, 06:31 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by E46Mango View Post
BMW calibrated the dip stick to read accurately when the reading is taken 5 minutes after engine shutdown. This is contained in the owners manual.
+1. I thought nobody will mention this. Checking oil level on cold engine (w/o running it) is wrong. RTFM.
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Old 02-14-2011, 07:08 PM   #45
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+1. I thought nobody will mention this. Checking oil level on cold engine (w/o running it) is wrong. RTFM.
And please do tell whats wrong with it? I gotta hear this..

Ramzi, if you wanna replace the head gasket.... Pelican has a kit available for it. Comes with pretty much all gaskets. While your in there it wouldn't hurt to replace the plastic coolant pipes going to the head and block if you got the money for it. Some say to do it.. I did it, but kinda regret it. Mines were in good shape at 137k. You'll need to send the head out to a machine shop as well to get it checked out. Let me know if you need the write-up, but I wouldnt listen to everything that guy says in there. Also the BMW TIS is a good thing to have. 10 bucks on ebay. Finally, find yourself a place to rent those special tools, because they are around $400+
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Old 02-14-2011, 09:11 PM   #46
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And please do tell whats wrong with it? I gotta hear this..
http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/06/04/31
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:36 PM   #47
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That didn't answer my question. That just showed me what to do after an oil change. They dont mention which way is more accurate, cold or warm. They just tell you to run the oil after an oil change to make the oil light go out.

Logic dictates that all of the oil is in the pan when the engine has stood over night. Still think you'll get a better reading when some of the oil is not in the pan and all over the cylinder walls after 5 minutes? Think about it.
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:48 PM   #48
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I hate to prove obvious things, so here is my last reply on this topic:
http://www.linquist.net/system/files/E462001Ci.pdf
Page 135:
Quote:
Checking the oil level
1 Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2 Shut the engine off after it has
reached normal operating temperature.
3 After approx. 5 minutes, pull the dipstick
out and wipe it off with a clean
lint-free cloth, paper towel, or similar
material.
4 Carefully push the dipstick all the way
into the guide tube and pull it out
again.
5 The oil level should be between the
two marks on the dipstick.
As with fuel economy, oil consumption
is directly influenced by your driving
style and vehicle operating conditions.
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Old 02-15-2011, 04:39 AM   #49
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I hate to prove obvious things, so here is my last reply on this topic:
http://www.linquist.net/system/files/E462001Ci.pdf
Page 135:
'after approx 5 mins., the oil should be between the marks'

That's fine, and that's what mine does 'approx' 5 mins after shutdown. But, it'll show about 1/3 up from bottom notch.

What happens, I think, is that many do that, think it's accurate, add 2/3rds qt of oil, drive around blissfully thinking they did good, when they're really running around with oil level above where it should be.

If you use the mark within 5 mins. of shutdown to top it off, you'll end up with the wrong amount of oil. If you use the mark just to know whether you're fine or not, you'll be fine...unless it shows you're on the low mark and then add a quart out of panic...then you'll probably be 1/3 of a quart too high. Not catastrophic, but not good.

I bet somewhere in bmw's instructions, they compensate for the way they wrote this, say, maybe in the instructions for changing the oil.
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Old 02-16-2011, 12:29 AM   #50
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I hate to prove obvious things, so here is my last reply on this topic:
http://www.linquist.net/system/files/E462001Ci.pdf
Page 135:
So that was the best you could do with your final reply on the topic?
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:57 AM   #51
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Not having access to the car right now, what's the easiest way to see if the motor is M54 or M56 on this 325? (might be really dumb question, but still a question...)
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Old 02-16-2011, 11:40 AM   #52
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Not having access to the car right now, what's the easiest way to see if the motor is M54 or M56 on this 325? (might be really dumb question, but still a question...)
Not sure what the M56 motors look like, but I think it should say SULEV somewhere or something. I guess call the dealer and give them the vin.
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:44 AM   #53
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Alright... So i talked to the wonderful folks at Pelican. Here's what they said I should replace:

(In Process)


11-12-7-507-597-M17
Head Gasket Set Head Gasket not included Also use two 11-62-1-732-969-M17 exhaust manifold gaskets

1
$199.00

$199.00

(In Process)


11-62-1-732-969-M17
Exhaust Manifold Gasket With Integrated Heat Shield, Manifold to Cylinder Head, 2 Per Car, Each

2
$19.00

$38.00

(In Process)


11-12-7-501-304-M17
Head Gasket, 0.70mm, 525i/Touring 2001-03, 528i/Touring 1996-00, 530i 2001-03

1
$39.50

$39.50

(In Process)


11-12-1-740-065-M58
Cylinder Head Bolt Set, (14 Bolts Per Set)

1
$27.50

$27.50

(In Process)

11-51-7-527-910-M9
Water Pump, 323i/is/iC 1998-00, 325i/Ci/xi 2000-04, 328i/Ci 1999-00, 330i/Ci/xi 2001-04, Z3 2.5/2.8/3.0 1999-02, Z4 2002-04, 528i 1997-00, 525i 2001-03, 530i 2001-03, X5 3.0i 2000-04

1
$131.75

$131.75

(In Process)


11-53-7-509-227-M2
Thermostat with Integrated Thermostat Housing includes gasket, BMW E46 3 Series, All Except M3; E39 525i/525i Wagon, 530i, 528i/528i Wagon from 9/98, Each

1
$64.75

$64.75

(In Process)


11-61-7-501-566-M9
Ventilation Valve, Pressure Regulating Valve - Oil Separator

1
$65.25

$65.25

(In Process)


11-61-1-432-559-M9
Ventilation Pipe, Valve Cover to Pressure Regulating Valve, E46 323i/323i Wagon, 323Ci/Ci Wagon, 328i/Ci, 330i/Xi/Ci/Ci Conv, 325i/325i Wagon, 325Xi/Xi Wagon, 325Ci/Ci Conv; E39 528i/528i Wagon (from 9/98), 525i/525i Wagon, 530i; E60 525i M54, 530i M54; Z3 2.3, 2.5i, 2.8 (from 9/98), 3.0, Coupe 2.8/3.0; X3 2.5, 3.0; X5 3.0; Z4 2.5, 3.0

1
$28.00

$28.00

(In Process)


11-61-7-504-535-M9
Connecting Hose from Pressure Regulating Valve

1
$38.25

$38.25

(In Process)


11-15-7-532-649-M21
Ventilation Hose, Pressure Regulating Valve to Oil Dip Stick Tube, E46 323i/323i Wagon, 323Ci/Ci Conv, 328i/Ci, 330i/Xi/Ci/Ci Conv, 325i/325i Wagon, 325Ci/Ci Conv, 325Xi/Xi Wagon; E39 528i/528i Wagon (from 9/98), 525i/525i Wagon, 530i; Z3 2.3, 2.5i, 2.8 (from 9/98), 3.0, Coupe 2.8/3.0; E60 525i M54, 530i M54; X3 2.5, 3.0; Z4 2.5, 3.0

1
$11.00

$11.00

(In Process)


11-61-7-504-536-M9
Ventilation Pipe, Return Pipe from Connecting Hose

1
$35.00

$35.00

(In Process)


17-12-7-510-952-M21
Upper Radiator Hose, Includes Air Bleeder Screw, BMW E46 3 Series, All Except M3 1999-04, Each

1
$29.00

$29.00

(In Process)


11-53-1-436-408-M21
Radiator Hose, Lower to Thermostat with Temperature Sensor Fitting NOTE: Also use water temperature sensor 13-62-1-433-077-M9

1
$25.75

$25.75

(In Process)


13-62-1-433-077-M9
Temperature Sensor, 525i/Touring 2001-03, 528i/Touring 09/98-00, 530i 2001-03, 540i/Touring 09/98, M5 2000-03, Each

1
$28.25

$28.25

(In Process)


12-12-0-037-607-M220
NGK Spark Plug, High Power, EACH

6
$11.50

$69.00

(In Process)

17-11-9-071-519-M6
Radiator

1
$150.75

$150.75

They also said I'd need the following tools:

PEL-B305
BMW 3 Series (E46) Service Manual - 1999-2005, by Bentley Publications [More Info] [view in catalog]

$98.95


83-30-0-490-856-BOE
Torx Socket for Head Bolts, for late BMW 4-valve models (M42, M43, M44, M50, M52, M54, M60, M62, S50, S52) [More Info] [view in catalog]

$64.00


TOL-3017
Camshaft Holding Tool/Fixture (includes (2) blocks (1) swivel lock and (1) flywheel locking pin 112-300) - (BMW TOOL# 11 3 240) Applicable: BMW Model M42, M44, M50, M52, M52TU motors [More Info] [view in catalog]

$159.60


TOL-LIS28100
Torque Angle Meter [More Info] [view in catalog]

$37.00




TOL-BMW3055
VANOS Cam Timing Master Kit w/ case - 5 Piece, Includes BMW3041, BMW3042, BMW3043, BMW3046, and BMW3047 [More Info] [view in catalog]

$352.80

Am I missing anything?? I am going to start looking around to see if there are any folks willing to lend these out on AST...
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Old 02-18-2011, 10:56 AM   #54
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A bit overkill with all the cooling stuff but if you got the cash for it, then why not. And why is the head gasket you have listed for a 525i? Just make sure you get all the right parts. Looks okay to me. I did forget to mention that for that oil seperator, the CCV hoses that go to it will more then likely need to be broken to be removed, and its a good idea to invest in replacing all of them so they wont give you a head ache later down the road. I hope you have a machine shop set up.
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Old 02-18-2011, 07:37 PM   #55
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I gave the dude at Pelican the exact VIN# for the car and this is the list he pulled together. I do see some other pieces of equipment with the 525i label too. I suppose when I'm getting closer to buying, I'll call in to confirm they are correct.
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Old 02-18-2011, 08:09 PM   #56
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So I've put a few more PMs out to folks on other forums in the hopes that I can find some of these tools to rent. We'll see.
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Old 02-19-2011, 12:51 AM   #57
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So I've put a few more PMs out to folks on other forums in the hopes that I can find some of these tools to rent. We'll see.
I may be a bit confused here, but isn't that what your buisness is about? Specialty tool rentals?
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Old 02-19-2011, 05:44 PM   #58
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I may be a bit confused here, but isn't that what your buisness is about? Specialty tool rentals?
Sort of... We provide a marketplace for peers to post up their tools for free and lend them to others for whatever amount they desire. The site provides an escrow-style service to protect both sides of the transaction to enable the borrowing/lending of specialty tools with less hassle and worrying about theft, damage, or misuse.

Most of the tools currently up on the site are tools that I personally own, plus a few others. As you can see, there are no tools for BMWs posted except for the rear differential bushing tool. As such, my goal is to find folks that have the tools and tell them about the site so they can post them up for others to borrow.
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Old 02-20-2011, 02:06 PM   #59
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Sort of... We provide a marketplace for peers to post up their tools for free and lend them to others for whatever amount they desire. The site provides an escrow-style service to protect both sides of the transaction to enable the borrowing/lending of specialty tools with less hassle and worrying about theft, damage, or misuse.

Most of the tools currently up on the site are tools that I personally own, plus a few others. As you can see, there are no tools for BMWs posted except for the rear differential bushing tool. As such, my goal is to find folks that have the tools and tell them about the site so they can post them up for others to borrow.
Hm, I see. Nice idea. Hope its working out.

Heres a guy renting them out.. Check to see if he has them available. http://ezflatscreen.com/carpages/bmw...oolrentals.php
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:06 AM   #60
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Yeah I contacted that guy a few times but he seems unresponsive. I'm gonna do about another week of searching before I bite the bullet.
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