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Great Plains & Rocky Mountains
Have you seen another BMW while driving around in your area? Maybe you can find their car in the E46Fanatics Garage!
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Old 03-24-2011, 12:52 PM   #7221
PerkM3
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Originally Posted by xixixi View Post
i know nothing of track talk. i run metal masters with tms slotted.. with no abs... when you wanna stop you stop!!! if you got a heavy foot you hit ****
For street driving brakes are brakes but when you're are talking about 20 minutes of repeated highspeed braking from anywhere up to 120 to 20 that's when you can tell the difference. Heat is the problem, on the street you don't brake often enough for your brakes to heat up because in between stop lights your brakes have plenty of time to cool down before you have to apply them again.
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Old 03-24-2011, 12:57 PM   #7222
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I would be getting a CF one

Alright Brad, what should I get then?

I haven't looked into brakes as far as tracking really at all, give me a list of brake parts with brand name and I will buy it.

Oh and thanks for the purchase Jay
NP, I big time fvcked up not getting the rest from you guys!
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Old 03-24-2011, 12:59 PM   #7223
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Originally Posted by PerkM3 View Post
For street driving brakes are brakes but when you're are talking about 20 minutes of repeated highspeed braking from anywhere up to 120 to 20 that's when you can tell the difference. Heat is the problem, on the street you don't brake often enough for your brakes to heat up because in between stop lights your brakes have plenty of time to cool down before you have to apply them again.
When we were doing some runs on that back road my pad wear sensors started melting I know ryan/jacob/bigjake remember that ****... uhhh dude your wheel is smoking... wtf wtf! at any rate take those out before ya track it cause they gonna melt!
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:02 PM   #7224
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Originally Posted by ///Mspired View Post
I would be getting a CF one

Alright Brad, what should I get then?

I haven't looked into brakes as far as tracking really at all, give me a list of brake parts with brand name and I will buy it.
I don't want to tell you what to buy, I was just saying that there are plenty of places to look and gather info on what works and what doesn't. I started off with ss lines, motul 600 fluid, oem pads, and rotors.

I didn't really get any brake fad until my second session.

Then I changed to axxis street/light track pads. They blew and overheated after the first 10 minutes.

Then I went to CSL 2-piece rotors and Hawk HT-10 pads. These were great, never overheated and performend perfectly. The only reason I switched from Hawks to PFC's is becaues everywhere I read people were raving about them and my Hawks were all used up.

I then added brass guide pins and PFC-01's. These were far superior to the Hawks in every way but pad life.

Now I'm running ss lines, motul 660, brass guide pins, oem csl 2-piece rotors, pfc-06 pads, and custom brake ducting to direct fresh air to the back of the rotor.

What I'm trying to get at is its a system, and you may not be able to do everything at once. If that's the case and you can afford the best stuff right from the get go then go get a bbk. New rotors wont really do crap. Race pads will help but once you boil the stock fluid you will be out of luck. Race fluid and pads is good, but the oem lines are soft and mushy which will do the same to your pedal.

It's a system..........................ss lines and fluid should most definitly be done first, then add pads, then add rotors. Honestly rotors are rotors, they are just a piece of steel. The only benefit from a rotor is if you get 2-piece floating rotors which allow the rotor to float which will allow the pad to get a better contact patch. 2-piece rotors also ussually have alluminum hats instead of steel which cuts down on rotational mass.

If you have the money then I say do it all, but you will never need a bbk. Not unless you are doing enduro racing. I would get ss lines, fluid, and pads for sure. If your rotors are shot then you will have to get those to.
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:04 PM   #7225
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When we were doing some runs on that back road my pad wear sensors started melting I know ryan/jacob/bigjake remember that ****... uhhh dude your wheel is smoking... wtf wtf! at any rate take those out before ya track it cause they gonna melt!
I took those out so long ago, they are great for a person who knows nothing about their car and doesn't worry about maintenance. If you don't know that you brakes are worn then geeze.
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:07 PM   #7226
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Fluid, lines, pads it is. I just don't know if I need rotors or not. There is an apparent lip on the outside of the rotor an the rotors in front seem to have a brown line in the middle of the rotor.

^ oh sh1t!
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:19 PM   #7227
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Fluid, lines, pads it is. I just don't know if I need rotors or not. There is an apparent lip on the outside of the rotor an the rotors in front seem to have a brown line in the middle of the rotor.

^ oh sh1t!
Have someone Mic it for ya. I doubt they are out of spec. Another you might try at the track is pulling your abs and give that a go. I will never use ABS, none of my cars have had it. It will also disable your DSC as that works with the ABS system to apply the brakes to the slipping wheels. On the same note a lot of people will agree with that on your first time out. If you practice with abs/dsc then go without it. It will be like your first day all over again. This isn't a very popular answer and most will disagree. I works for me. ABS only allows you to steer the front of that car into w/e your going to hit. Without ABS you just lock up and hope for the best no steering needed
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:23 PM   #7228
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no way I would do an auto x or track time with the asc / dsc enabled. abs I'm not sure... but it does like to cut in early sometimes
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:24 PM   #7229
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Have someone Mic it for ya. I doubt they are out of spec. Another you might try at the track is pulling your abs and give that a go. I will never use ABS, none of my cars have had it. It will also disable your DSC as that works with the ABS system to apply the brakes to the slipping wheels. On the same note a lot of people will agree with that on your first time out. If you practice with abs/dsc then go without it. It will be like your first day all over again. This isn't a very popular answer and most will disagree. I works for me. ABS only allows you to steer the front of that car into w/e your going to hit. Without ABS you just lock up and hope for the best no steering needed
This is why it is not recomeneded for first time or DE drivers. That's the reason you see this on pretty much only race cars. Last thing you want to do is flat spot a new set of tires.
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:25 PM   #7230
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Fluid, lines, pads it is. I just don't know if I need rotors or not. There is an apparent lip on the outside of the rotor an the rotors in front seem to have a brown line in the middle of the rotor.

^ oh sh1t!
Jay is right, the only way for sure is to use a micrometer to check the thikness against spec.
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:30 PM   #7231
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This is why it is not recomeneded for first time or DE drivers. That's the reason you see this on pretty much only race cars. Last thing you want to do is flat spot a new set of tires.
I forget about the details. Yep def don't want to waste a couple hundred in tires! some hybrid pulls out in front of me i lock up slid a good 60 feet smoke engulfs this z4 vert behind me. guy pulls up gives me the finger and flys off i about died!
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:34 PM   #7232
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For some more

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=358357
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:34 PM   #7233
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What pads and what fluid should I run brad?

I must have that roundel

Last edited by ///Mspired; 03-24-2011 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:34 PM   #7234
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I'm from Kansas City....

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Hello folks! I'm just looking for all the "e46ers" in Kansas.... I feel so left out . I cant find anyone else that does these cars around Johnson County! Met a really cool guy awile back and will be meeting him next weekend you can find his thread here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...664&highlight= . Other than him the only other person I know Has a 325xi with cheap ass wheels and hes a total douche! HE EVEN KEYED MY CAR AND IS TELLING EVERYONE I COPIED HIS "CAR IDEAS" AND MODDED MY CAR WITH HIS IDEAS BEFORE HE DID! . So anyway calling all Kansas E46 Fanatics!
But i live in San Diego now. If you ever head west, look me up!
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:40 PM   #7235
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Lul
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:40 PM   #7236
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What pads and what fluid should I run brad?

I must have that roundel
motol 600 or howwever its spelled. its in brad's sig
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:41 PM   #7237
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But i live in San Diego now. If you ever head west, look me up!
7200 posts later, welcome to the kansas fanatics thread
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:43 PM   #7238
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What pads and what fluid should I run brad?

I must have that roundel
I like motul RBF which comes in 600 or 660 which stands for it's dry boiling point. The 600 is obivously cheaper.

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motol 600 or howwever its spelled. its in brad's sig
LOL, that sig is so old.
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:48 PM   #7239
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ss lines, motul rbf 660, pfc pads. Which pfc pads?
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:49 PM   #7240
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i use super blue. brand ATE... it's 536. www.ate-brakes.com
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