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Great Plains & Rocky Mountains
Have you seen another BMW while driving around in your area? Maybe you can find their car in the E46Fanatics Garage!
CO IA KS MO MT ND NE SD WY

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Old 07-11-2011, 10:22 AM   #10261
PerkM3
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I love how when mention something few listen, but when someone else posts it it's magic.

Case in point, from your post above Andy: "So many folks use a swaybar as a primary suspension set-up component and not as the fine tuning element it is meant to be."

How many times have I said this exact thing.

As far as the track goes, no they do not refund. This is why we always wait till the last day to register. They will cancel it and if they do you will just get a credit towards the next time.
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:49 AM   #10262
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Well a credit is better than flat out losing money.
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:15 PM   #10263
PerkM3
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Well a credit is better than flat out losing money.
Yeah you wont loose any money. Next time wait until the day before so you know for sure what the weather is going to be like.
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Old 07-11-2011, 01:34 PM   #10264
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when will they call it?
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Old 07-11-2011, 02:36 PM   #10265
PerkM3
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when will they call it?
Day of or before.
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Old 07-11-2011, 08:07 PM   #10266
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Are you Guys tracking the 13th?
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Ebay Headers
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clears all around
weighted shift knob
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Old 07-11-2011, 08:22 PM   #10267
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Im planning on it
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Old 07-11-2011, 09:47 PM   #10268
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Originally Posted by Obioban View Post
This mod SIGNIFICANTLY increases you light output when you go to high beams. If you're running non stock xenon bulbs (6000k and up) it will also help you regain your lost wet light.

Note (important): If you're going to do this, disable DRLs or your DRLs will become high beams. If you want the safety of DRLs use my always on fog DIY to make them function as DRLs (http://homepage.mac.com/ianlindvig/drf.htm).

Another note: I don't know if the diodes are necessary. I do know that the light control module is extremely easy to screw up so I kept them with a better safe than sorry mentality

Also, there are two ways you can do this install: (1) under the hood (easy but you then have wire taps exposed to the elements) or behind the dash (much harder to find all the wires but all your taps won't see water). See note at end

For this you will need:
Project box
Rectifier diodes (may not be necessary but better safe than sorry
Barrier strip (if using diodes)
2 trigger (5 pin) automotive relay (2x if don't want idiot light on dash)
misc electronic connections, etc



1) Hollow out project box



2) Test fit to make sure everything will fit...



3) Attach diodes to barrier strip (note that you want to do this so you can run wires through without making contact with the other diodes or terminals. The way show below is probably your best bet. If you're skipping the diodes then just ignore this step and the barrier strip completely. The triggers are what are gong to be going to be going through the diodes to prevent any backflow into the triggers.



4)
The relay will have the following going into it:
Power from battery
Ground
Trigger 1: original halogen wire (to keep flash to pass feature)
Trigger 2: Tap from xenon shutter
Power out (two wires, one for each headlight)

Your cable lengths will vary depending on where you're going to tap the wires. If under hood you must leave enough length to run wires to headlights (with one power cable longer to get to the drivers side headlight. If running under the dash (safer but much more work) one wire must be about 4.5 feet long to go to the driver's foot well area.



5) Connect triggers to barrier strip....



6) Connect from car trigger wires to barrier strip (or relay if you're skipping the diodes
7) place in project box.




8) Seal project box, admire it's neatness



9) No pictures because this part can be done many ways. You must find your own wires. Here's the basics:

Color codes:
a) The right halogen power is white with a blue stripe
b) the left halogen power wire is white with a green stripe
c) the xenon shutter is yellow with a red stripe (but be careful, trace the wire as other wires share this color code

Process:
a) Cut one of the headlight wires. Take the end going to the bulb and connect it to your relays power out
b) Tap the other end of the stock headlight wire to one of your relays triggers. This keeps you flash to pass feature
c) Cut the other headlight wire. Connect the end going to the bulb to your relays other power out
d) To disable an idiot light on your dash, connect the other end of the cut wire to a second (otherwise pointless) relay (which, of course, you must ground as well)
e) Tap, but don't cut, the xenon shutter and take the tap to the other trigger on your relay
f) Use the positive batter terminal under the hood to get power for your relay
g) Ground relay
h) Hide everything away

10) enjoy twice the nightly light (which is hard to photograph):





Credit: all me
kewl
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Old 07-12-2011, 01:54 PM   #10269
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^That would be helpful.

Dude, weather.com is full of sht. They've said its supposed to T-storm a few day already this past week and it hasn't. And now they say today, tomorrow and the next day is supposed to T-storm. I doubt it will.
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Old 07-12-2011, 02:24 PM   #10270
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^That would be helpful.

Dude, weather.com is full of sht. They've said its supposed to T-storm a few day already this past week and it hasn't. And now they say today, tomorrow and the next day is supposed to T-storm. I doubt it will.




www.noaa.gov

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick...1&lon=-94.6852
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Old 07-12-2011, 03:30 PM   #10271
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Originally Posted by CokMinusTheS54 View Post
^That would be helpful.

Dude, weather.com is full of sht. They've said its supposed to T-storm a few day already this past week and it hasn't. And now they say today, tomorrow and the next day is supposed to T-storm. I doubt it will.
As hot as it's been even if it rains the track will be dry shortly after it stops. Just remember, after the rain the track looses grip because all the rubber left on the track will be washed off.
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Old 07-12-2011, 03:36 PM   #10272
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Just lost about 100 lbs in the car the past few days. I've got all the carpet out, thinned the wiring harness a bit (still have some left), and pulled the moon roof. Should have the CF moonroof panel this week or next and the car goes off to have the new oem bumper painted next week. Lots to do and so little time.

Still need to remove all the sound deadening and un-wanted brakets that used to hold stuff in place. Haven't decided on weather I'll remove the AC or not, may make that move when I get a trailor. I can only imagine driving to the track with no AC. My overall goal is to have a car aorund 3k lbs with a full tank and me in the car. That means ultimately I have to lose around 300 lbs. I think 200 is doable but I don't know about 300. I need to get a chromoly cage built the mild steel one I have now weighs 72 lbs, not light.
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Old 07-12-2011, 03:36 PM   #10273
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Triple Post..........................I'm bored.
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Old 07-12-2011, 08:12 PM   #10274
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Ya I haven't registered yet. I'm holding off til the last minute to, I don't want to be late though and have to pay the $125.. I'll be checking those radarz
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Old 07-12-2011, 09:04 PM   #10275
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Triple Post..........................I'm bored.
Dude, I don't even use my AC.
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Old 07-12-2011, 09:11 PM   #10276
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do our thermomders go over 105?
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Old 07-12-2011, 09:33 PM   #10277
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yes, i have a picture from last year of 110, no joke
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Old 07-12-2011, 09:54 PM   #10278
CokMinusTheS54
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Just started monsooning in Lawrence :/
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Old 07-12-2011, 10:02 PM   #10279
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Just registered. NOW STOP RAINING!
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Old 07-12-2011, 10:31 PM   #10280
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my car has said 105 three days straight
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