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Great Plains & Rocky Mountains
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:35 AM   #12001
Rubenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgremillion09 View Post
Sorry can't see sigs on the bimmerapp, didn't know you knew what he had. Anyone wanna play around with some 10k tuning software?
I have no idea what 10k tuning software is, but I do I do!
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:57 AM   #12002
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i'm not going to pretend to be an expert in chassis setup by any means, so this is just my personal opinion of it. i've been around racing since ~2001, did DE stuff for a couple years and started racing myself in 2003. i build my own cars, have helped build a handful of others, crewed for multiple drivers at the SCCA Runoffs, crewed for a team that won the 12hrs of Summit Point last year, and myself finished 4th in the 2010 SCCA ARRC Sprint race in ITA, and won the 2010 SCCA ARRC Enduro. I have probably around 6 race wins, and another 6 or so podium finishes the last 2 years i raced (didn't do any racing this year). so anyway...

total tire grip is does have a component of "weight" or downward force involved sure.....but it's not like if you took a 2500lb car and added 200lbs over the LF tire it would necessarily turn right better than it would at 2500lbs.

think about this.....if you're picking up the RF wheel on a right turn, that's not ideal, that's not what you want. and since the the total weight of the car is essentially static, all you're doing is moving that weight around depending on what you're doing. so to get that RF wheel back on the ground you're probably going to essentially transfer weight from either the LF or LR depending on what adjustment you make to get that tire back on the ground and providing you with some extra grip you didn't have before.

pretty much any race car can get to 50/50 crossweights, which is you're basic starting point. after that you start trying to get all 4 corners at equal weights as well and you can make slight wedge adjustments based on which direction the track goes and balance.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:30 AM   #12003
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Phew, glad I dont have to worry about turning when I start racing the stang!! lol
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:19 AM   #12004
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I have no idea what 10k tuning software is, but I do I do!
I'll send it to you once I get it. Internet needs to be turned on at the apartment first.
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:23 AM   #12005
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What is it?
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:35 PM   #12006
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I replaced the CCV and I'm still having issues...

I am down to coil packs, fuel injectors, 02 sensors now...
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:41 PM   #12007
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well, the coils are easy to test for complete failure, but not for partial failure.

SEAFOAM is cheaper than new injectors
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Old 09-27-2011, 01:22 PM   #12008
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well, the coils are easy to test for complete failure, but not for partial failure.

SEAFOAM is cheaper than new injectors
I don't have an air leak, the way the engine acts is extremely predictable and only miss-fires a couple times each drive. The way the rpms drop and then go back up where they should be is my main issue... I removed everything but the intake manifold for the ccv and didn't see any cracks for air leaks. I think it may be a fuel delivery problem now because one of my fuel injectors tick very loud and I had issues getting my car to start after the fuel filter replacement. I had to try and start my car about 30 times until it started.

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Old 09-27-2011, 01:34 PM   #12009
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Here is someone with the same problem I am having only with a different car. Turns out it was spark plugs for this guy, I replaced mine and still have issues. I am thinking it's the coil packs now.

"My manual 1997 SL2 with 190k miles has started to dip RPMs below idle, down to as low as 400 any time pressure is released from the gas pedal, bounces back up to 1000-1100 RPM before dropping back down to normal idle at 800 RPM."

"In slowing down when approaching an intersection, I will push in the clutch in anticipation of stopping. If I was at higher than cruising RPMs when the clutch is engaged, the RPMs will drop to around 600 and then rev back up to 1000+ before settling down. Then, when I am at idle (sitting at stop light), the idle seems to be right at 810-830. After 10 seconds or so, I will feel the engine ever so slightly shudder. Nothing major, but I've been watching the tach drop to around 780 or so, and then it pops right back to 810-830.)"
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Old 09-27-2011, 02:46 PM   #12010
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That's not an engine issue that you are having, its a transmission issue.

If it doesn't happen in neutral then its not engine related.
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:21 PM   #12011
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That's not an engine issue that you are having, its a transmission issue.

If it doesn't happen in neutral then its not engine related.
Maybe but sometimes these issues only occur when the car is under load. I had some issues with my spark plugs and the car would idle and run fine in neutral but once under load I would have all kinds of rpm issues.

I have no idea what it could be though. Sounds like Ryan needs to take it to Kendall and have him figure it out once and for all. I'm good at fixing, not diagnosing.
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:23 PM   #12012
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That's not an engine issue that you are having, its a transmission issue.

If it doesn't happen in neutral then its not engine related.
Okay Andy, why am I having missfires and preperation mixture on bank 1 and 2 if it's transmission problems? The car shifts smooth everytime and is always in the right gear and downshifts smooth too. I never drive the car in neutral but the rpms do dip sometimes when I rev it in neutral.
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:24 PM   #12013
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I have no idea what it could be though. Sounds like Ryan needs to take it to Kendall and have him figure it out once and for all.
shameless plug for the shop?

But really.... getting the car hooked up to a BMW computer and see whats going on might not be a bad idea. My Peak only reads so much.
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:26 PM   #12014
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shameless plug for the shop?

But really.... getting the car hooked up to a BMW computer and see whats going on might not be a bad idea. My Peak only reads so much.
LOL, just reppin.

I agree with you though. A GT1 or MODUS will tell you a ton more then a Peake tool.
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:50 PM   #12015
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crikey...

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Old 09-27-2011, 04:01 PM   #12016
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^

thats "real" torque steer
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:10 PM   #12017
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That's not an engine issue that you are having, its a transmission issue.

If it doesn't happen in neutral then its not engine related.
false.

Sounds nothing like any transmission problem i've ever heard of. Especially when dealing with a manual trans.
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:22 PM   #12018
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false.

Sounds nothing like any transmission problem i've ever heard of. Especially when dealing with a manual trans.
its an auto thats running hot for some reason. Have him show you next time you see his car (friday?)
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:33 PM   #12019
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its an auto thats running hot for some reason. Have him show you next time you see his car (friday?)
Oops, I misread his buddy's problem as being his own. Seen him mention clutch pedal and assumed it was manual. My bad...
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:40 PM   #12020
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How tight do front endlinks have to be? Is there a torque spec or is it just "tight enough"

Though I'd check.... apparently somebody before me didnt take the time
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