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Great Plains & Rocky Mountains
Have you seen another BMW while driving around in your area? Maybe you can find their car in the E46Fanatics Garage!
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:07 AM   #14441
Rubenk
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I'm looking at houses for rent, any good leads? Must have a garage, 2 bedroom min, and not break the bank. Dont need anything super fancy, just safe area where I wont get mugged, lol.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:14 AM   #14442
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Originally Posted by Rubenk View Post
I'm looking at houses for rent, any good leads? Must have a garage, 2 bedroom min, and not break the bank. Dont need anything super fancy, just safe area where I wont get mugged, lol.
Do you need close to work, close to things to do? That will help determine an area.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:22 AM   #14443
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Do you need close to work, close to things to do? That will help determine an area.
I halfway want both. Found some in the roeland park area which would be kinda cool, then found some out in pleasant hill and think being out of the city would be nice too.

If its within 35minute drive of the bannister federal complex, then i'll consider it.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:59 AM   #14444
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This seems legit enough for me. I dont need no excitement or anything. http://kansascity.craigslist.org/apa/2895918726.html
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:28 PM   #14445
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Andy, that's Enkei set is beautiful
19 or 18 wheels?

PerkM3, you do need a bigger garage, lol
you have too many toys

Cosmos M3, I love that super print header of yours
Thanks. they're 19s. they came with the car but I don't think ill ever change them. I really like them.
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:41 PM   #14446
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it's rare for me to see a blue m3 with Rpf1 wheels
I want the same set
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Old 03-13-2012, 03:09 PM   #14447
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Damn the new F30 335 Cant wait to see what the new M3 will look like...

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Old 03-13-2012, 03:35 PM   #14448
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I'm not a big fan of the F30.

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Originally Posted by ZkansasZ View Post
it's rare for me to see a blue m3 with Rpf1 wheels
I want the same set
They only come in a really staggered size. so unless you want to run 4 rears, you'll be running 19x8.5 front and 19x10 rear. Offsets are really agressive too. I'm running a lot of rear camber to compensate.

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Found em, luckily Andy hasnt gotten any retarded comments on his videos, lol.
Not many atleast. I haven't done a very good job promoting the videos, but the ones on the track aren't very good anyway so whatever.

Brad Needs to figure out how to upload his own stuff.

Last edited by Andy2108; 03-13-2012 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 03-13-2012, 04:03 PM   #14449
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So I took the M3 out yesterday to see what the new brakes and tires were like. The brakes are insane, very impressive. But it seemed that I had a bit of an issue with stability. The front shocks were set at full soft, and I though maybe that was part of the issue. A Mr. Perkins confirmed my suspicions, so I set the front to mostly stiff, and the rear to just over half stiff.

Went out again. The car was much more stable, and braked even harder since its a little warmer today.
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:10 PM   #14450
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Originally Posted by Andy2108 View Post
So I took the M3 out yesterday to see what the new brakes and tires were like. The brakes are insane, very impressive. But it seemed that I had a bit of an issue with stability. The front shocks were set at full soft, and I though maybe that was part of the issue. A Mr. Perkins confirmed my suspicions, so I set the front to mostly stiff, and the rear to just over half stiff.

Went out again. The car was much more stable, and braked even harder since its a little warmer today.
I have a feeling you have a lot to do setup wise but youre getting there. I think you still need to adjust you camber and possibly your sways, I can't remember what you had those at.
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:21 PM   #14451
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Yeah, I've been thinking about all that. I feel alot better now knowing that my tires and brakes are solid though.

Sways - set in the middle up front, IIRC. and I don't even know what in the rear. I need to install my new rear endlinks so maybe I'll take a look at those then.

Camber - running -2 in the rear all the time, I know that much. I need to get some front plates ordered. I don't think I'm going to go for new springs yet.

Toe - I gotta get some negative toe in for my street setup. The tram lining is really bad...

I want to get some of those quick-fit harnesses ordered. Fan will go in sometime next week. I think I'm also going to skip the Bimmerworld tune, unless my dyno comes out being really off. $600 is alot of money for something that I may not need and can always do later.

Last edited by Andy2108; 03-13-2012 at 05:22 PM.
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:31 AM   #14452
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So I'm working on finalizing my alignment settings. (I realize I'm over simplifying things)

For the street setup, how much negative toe should I run? I don't want to burn through tires...

Kevin was running -3/16" rear. The Bentley service manual specifies 022'... but I have no idea how to relate these two numbers.

For the front I figure just align it to 0 toe at 3.5, so when I pull the camber back out to -2 or -1.5 the toe comes in.
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:39 AM   #14453
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anyone need a 330?

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/2876033065.html
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:23 AM   #14454
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Originally Posted by Andy2108 View Post
Yeah, I've been thinking about all that. I feel alot better now knowing that my tires and brakes are solid though.

Sways - set in the middle up front, IIRC. and I don't even know what in the rear. I need to install my new rear endlinks so maybe I'll take a look at those then.

I'm not sure what sways you have or how much adjustment they have but you will want the fronts stiffer than the rear as a common rule.

Camber - running -2 in the rear all the time, I know that much. I need to get some front plates ordered. I don't think I'm going to go for new springs yet.

Another general rule for the M3 is that you want to run atleast 1 degree more negative camber up front than in the rear. This doesn't really matter as much for street driving but will make a big difference on the track. So -2 in the rear means you should be around -3 up front. Now there is a point of to much (for the rear), I would never go over -3 in the rear. I plan to run -3.8 front and -2.5 rear and use my pyrometer to adjust it from there. Without a pyrometer the best chance you have at finding the right amount of camber is by the tire wear eye test.

Toe - I gotta get some negative toe in for my street setup. The tram lining is really bad...

I want to get some of those quick-fit harnesses ordered. Fan will go in sometime next week. I think I'm also going to skip the Bimmerworld tune, unless my dyno comes out being really off. $600 is alot of money for something that I may not need and can always do later.

Yeah I would for sure dyno and see where your AFR's are, if they are good then it's not like you "need" the extra power.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy2108 View Post
So I'm working on finalizing my alignment settings. (I realize I'm over simplifying things)

For the street setup, how much negative toe should I run? I don't want to burn through tires...

Kevin was running -3/16" rear. The Bentley service manual specifies 022'... but I have no idea how to relate these two numbers.

Come on now you can't translate inches into degrees, minutes, and seconds? I thought you wanted to be an engineer, lol. You should be able to find a conversion tool online that will do it for you.

For the front I figure just align it to 0 toe at 3.5, so when I pull the camber back out to -2 or -1.5 the toe comes in.

You want toe out front not toe in. What you want to do is align at 0 toe at street camber then it will toe out when you go to -3.5 for the track. I know you want to add toe for tramlining but you either have good street tire wear and tramlining or bad wear and not tramlining. If you have toe at you street camber setting it will more than triple at your track camber setting which will scrub of speed and rubber. As far as overall toe settings I can't remember what I did but Kendal should have both Kevin and my alignment. I set mine at what James recommended.
You're on the right track though, half of it is just knowing what you have so you can make changes from there. Make sure to get a little note pad and put your settings in it. Then make notes of how the car feels and handles. If you make changes, not them, and what changes they made to the car in terms of feel.
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:39 AM   #14455
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Another general rule for the M3 is that you want to run atleast 1 degree more negative camber up front than in the rear. This doesn't really matter as much for street driving but will make a big difference on the track. So -2 in the rear means you should be around -3 up front. Now there is a point of to much (for the rear), I would never go over -3 in the rear. I plan to run -3.8 front and -2.5 rear and use my pyrometer to adjust it from there. Without a pyrometer the best chance you have at finding the right amount of camber is by the tire wear eye test.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PerkM3 View Post
You're on the right track though, half of it is just knowing what you have so you can make changes from there. Make sure to get a little note pad and put your settings in it. Then make notes of how the car feels and handles. If you make changes, not them, and what changes they made to the car in terms of feel.

How the heck do you use a pyrometer for suspension changes? Ive only ever seen them used for EGTs...
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:04 AM   #14456
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How the heck do you use a pyrometer for suspension changes? Ive only ever seen them used for EGTs...
A tire pyrometer, should have mentioned that. You measure the temperature of the tire about 2mm. below the tires surface at the inside edge, middle, and outside outside edge. You then take the average of the outer and inner and if it equals the middle temp then you know that you have the ideal camber setting. If the outside is hotter then you need more camber if the inside is hotter than you need less. Pretty common sense on that latter of that.

A cars handleing is all about the tires, kinda obvious because that's what's contacting the road. Therefore you need to make sure that you have the the whole tire contacting the ground as much as you can. The ideal setup is obviously the average though because some turns may require less camber and some need more. So you set the car up on a best case basis.

So thus a tire pyrometer is almost the most important suspension tool. You can make all the sway bar, shock, tire pressure, etc. changes you want put if you aren't using all the tire then you aren't getting all the performance that you can.

Make sense.
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:49 AM   #14457
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Originally Posted by PerkM3 View Post
A tire pyrometer, should have mentioned that. You measure the temperature of the tire about 2mm. below the tires surface at the inside edge, middle, and outside outside edge. You then take the average of the outer and inner and if it equals the middle temp then you know that you have the ideal camber setting. If the outside is hotter then you need more camber if the inside is hotter than you need less. Pretty common sense on that latter of that.

A cars handleing is all about the tires, kinda obvious because that's what's contacting the road. Therefore you need to make sure that you have the the whole tire contacting the ground as much as you can. The ideal setup is obviously the average though because some turns may require less camber and some need more. So you set the car up on a best case basis.

So thus a tire pyrometer is almost the most important suspension tool. You can make all the sway bar, shock, tire pressure, etc. changes you want put if you aren't using all the tire then you aren't getting all the performance that you can.

Make sense.
I suspected it was to measure tire heat, thanks for the info!

Should get a sweet FLIR setup to live monitor tire heat!
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Old 03-14-2012, 09:23 AM   #14458
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I suspected it was to measure tire heat, thanks for the info!

Should get a sweet FLIR setup to live monitor tire heat!
Wouldn't really help because tire heat changes with tire grip and tire grip changes with tire life which changes as a session/race goes along. Plus that kind of stuff is illegal in most race classes. That's why most race cars (big time anyways) have live adjustable sway bars because as the tires grip falls off the handling characteristics of the car changes so they adjust the sways in car during a race to counter that and keep the car balanced.
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Old 03-14-2012, 09:50 AM   #14459
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Originally Posted by PerkM3 View Post
Wouldn't really help because tire heat changes with tire grip and tire grip changes with tire life which changes as a session/race goes along. Plus that kind of stuff is illegal in most race classes. That's why most race cars (big time anyways) have live adjustable sway bars because as the tires grip falls off the handling characteristics of the car changes so they adjust the sways in car during a race to counter that and keep the car balanced.
Yea, but FLIR stuff is just too cool!
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Old 03-14-2012, 01:31 PM   #14460
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Im bored out of my mind. I've been in the same meeting for two days.
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