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Great Plains & Rocky Mountains
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Old 07-16-2012, 09:36 AM   #15801
PerkM3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy2108 View Post
I've never heard of KH Automotive. I go to AutoTech, off of shawnee mission parkway. Both my m3 and 330 hesitated under load... around when the vanos was adjusting alot. I think its just normal. If you want to try some things to help it then plugs / coil packs probably aren't a bad idea, nice and easy/cheap to do. At least better than an exhaust cam position sensor or vanos seals. If they are a shop that deals with bmw's regularly then I wouldnt be surprised if they just considered it an understanding that if "inspection II" was on the invoice, then the whole everything was done. Inspection II is technically Inspection I + some other stuff, IIRC. Things like the belts and the cabin air filter are supposed to be included. I would just give them a call to confirm that everything was done. Oh, and also, unless your car is at 100,000 miles, bmw doesn't call for a transmission fluid change. They consider it a "lifetime" fluid... Might want to look into that one.
+1, to what Andy said. Inspection II should include plugs. Below is what inspection II should cover, from BMW.

Undercarige

Change oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating temperature.
Use only Castrol TWS Motorsport SAE 10W-60 Synthetic oil, or Castrol Formula RS 10W-60 Synthetic oil, BMW p/n 07 51 0 009 420.

Check transmission for leaks.

Check rear axle for leaks.

Half shafts: Check for leaks at flexible boots.

Visually check fuel tank, lines and connections for leaks.

Check condition, positioning, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.

Check power steering system for leaks. Check p/s fluid level; add fluid if necessary.

Check overall thickness of rear disc brake pads using special tool. Record results. If replacement is necessary*:
Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs. Check thickness of parking brake linings only when replacing rear pads. Record results.

Remove and install front disc brake pads, check overall thickness.
Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs.

Check brake and clutch system connections and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.

Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc.

Check parking brake actuation. Adjust if necessary.

Check all tire pressures (including spare - except M3, M5, Z8 and Alpina). Correct if necessary. Check condition of tires (outer surfaces [left/right]), tread wear and pattern; in case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if requested.*
Note:If requested rotate all four road wheels as instructed and rebalance.*

Replace M-Mobility System sealant cartridge every 3 years.

Inspect entire body according to terms of rust perforation limited warranty (must be performed at least every two years).

Replace transmission fluid.

Replace differential oil.



Engine Compartment

Read out diagnostic system.

Check and adjust valves.

Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
Note: Coolant must be replaced every 4 years (time interval begins from vehicle's production date).

Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir. Add fluid if required.

Replace brake fluid every 2 years (timing interval begins from vehicle's production date).*

Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.

Check air conditioner operation.

Replace microfilter.
Note: reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions.

Reset Service Indicator.

Replace intake air cleaner element.
Note: Reduce replace interval in dusty operating conditions.

Replace spark plugs.



Body/Electrical Equipment

Check battery state-of-charge, and charge if required.*

Check lighting system, i.e., headlights, foglights, parking, back-up, license-plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated make-up mirrors, luggage compartment lights.

Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.

Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.

Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.

Check wipers and washer system(s);wiper blades, washer jet positions.

Check condition and function of safety belts.

Recharge or replace batteries for remote controls in all vehicle master keys.

Check central locking/double lock.

Check operation of all latches.

Check heater/air conditioner blower fan, rear window defogger.

Check rear view mirrors.

Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn covers, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations or accessories.

Activate automatic roll-over protection system (if equipped) via diagnostic link.
Note:First remove hardtop/lower top (325Cic and 330Cic only).
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:15 AM   #15802
Rubenk
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My BMW needs alot of **** to be back in top shape.

Coolant flush
Trans drain/fill
Diff drain/fill
Flex-disc/guibo
Diff/subframe bushings
brake pads/rotors
brake flush
clutch/flywheel
exhaust replace

interior:
sunroof cover slides
couple of speakers
new shift knob
alarm housing thing
new window tint

Exterior:
new fogs
roof antenna repair
bumper repaint
wheels refinished
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:59 PM   #15803
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does this sound like vanos problem to you guys?


im paranoid atm...
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Old 07-16-2012, 07:25 PM   #15804
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Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZkansasZ View Post
does this sound like vanos problem to you guys?


im paranoid atm...
Cant tell for sure without hearing it in person but from the video it sure doesnt sound normal.
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Old 07-17-2012, 01:09 AM   #15805
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Originally Posted by ZkansasZ View Post
does this sound like vanos problem to you guys?


im paranoid atm...
Can you describe the sound that your hearing?
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:16 AM   #15806
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It's like marble in a can sound(just like what they said about cam bolts problem)
but I might be too paranoid that I steered my way into thinking that...

Recored another sound from cold start this morning
from 1:35 you can hear the noise in the background more clearly.
I drove to work, popped the hood: nothing but engine sound...


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Old 07-17-2012, 11:34 AM   #15807
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How good are you mechanically? I replaced my hub bolts and hub when I did a valve adjustment after I found that my hub tabs had sheered. It's not a tough job but you have to be very meticulous and you need the right tools. Youíll need torque wrench with angle adapters and a cam timing tool and cam shaft lock (see below). If youíre interested shoot me a pm and I can give you a call and give you a better idea of how itís done.

Angle adapters:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/21...h_Adaptor.html

Cam timing tool (you can rent this):
http://drvanos.com/index.php?option=...&id=5&Itemid=6

Cam shaft lock (I have one I can mail you):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Cranksha...8b012d&vxp=mtr
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:47 AM   #15808
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I am not competent to do this job I can assure ya

I watch youtube video clips many time on this
I am scared of messing up that timing also...
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:07 PM   #15809
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Originally Posted by ZkansasZ View Post
I am not competent to do this job I can assure ya

I watch youtube video clips many time on this
I am scared of messing up that timing also...
The timing is easy as pie if you re-install the vanos correctly (which I have the TIS for). If you put the lock in top dead center (TDC) and the cam timing tool on it can only go one way.
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Old 07-17-2012, 02:31 PM   #15810
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you are talking to a banker here...


Sometimes my wife asks why I am on the car sites more than my job related site lol
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:42 PM   #15811
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Originally Posted by ZkansasZ View Post
you are talking to a banker here...


Sometimes my wife asks why I am on the car sites more than my job related site lol
LOL. If I spent as much time working as I do on car forums I would be CEO of Black & Veatch.
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:09 PM   #15812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy2108 View Post
I've never heard of KH Automotive. I go to AutoTech, off of shawnee mission parkway. Both my m3 and 330 hesitated under load... around when the vanos was adjusting alot. I think its just normal. If you want to try some things to help it then plugs / coil packs probably aren't a bad idea, nice and easy/cheap to do. At least better than an exhaust cam position sensor or vanos seals. If they are a shop that deals with bmw's regularly then I wouldnt be surprised if they just considered it an understanding that if "inspection II" was on the invoice, then the whole everything was done. Inspection II is technically Inspection I + some other stuff, IIRC. Things like the belts and the cabin air filter are supposed to be included. I would just give them a call to confirm that everything was done. Oh, and also, unless your car is at 100,000 miles, bmw doesn't call for a transmission fluid change. They consider it a "lifetime" fluid... Might want to look into that one.
what are you talking about? There shouldn't be any hesitation anywhere...Neither my M3 or 330I do this. You might have some problem there....
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Old 07-18-2012, 07:40 AM   #15813
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i agree calling KH is probably a good idea....but if they weren't the most reputable shop i figured i'd just get a response like "nope, if it's not listed we didn't do it, bring it in immediately and for the low price of $300 we'll replace all the plugs for you!"

i feel like it's getting worse, power delivery just doesn't feel right between 2k and 3.5k.

oh...and keep an eye out for anyone looking to sell some VMR V710 / VM3 / ARC8 / Sportline 18'' locally. i'd be interested.
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Old 07-18-2012, 09:24 AM   #15814
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i agree calling KH is probably a good idea....but if they weren't the most reputable shop i figured i'd just get a response like "nope, if it's not listed we didn't do it, bring it in immediately and for the low price of $300 we'll replace all the plugs for you!"

i feel like it's getting worse, power delivery just doesn't feel right between 2k and 3.5k.

oh...and keep an eye out for anyone looking to sell some VMR V710 / VM3 / ARC8 / Sportline 18'' locally. i'd be interested.
If you're just wanting to do coils and plugs to see if it helps then I would just do it yourself. There are some really good DIY's out there on the web (M3forum especially), it shouldn't take you more than an hour to do both.

When it comes to the M3 I wouldn't trust anyone but Kendal, owner of AutoTech. I know I'm biased because he sponsors me but he really seems to be the front runner when it comes to this car. Not only did he used to be a master tech at Baron but he really does care and try to help us local enthusiests any way he can.
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:12 AM   #15815
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Originally Posted by PerkM3 View Post
If you're just wanting to do coils and plugs to see if it helps then I would just do it yourself. There are some really good DIY's out there on the web (M3forum especially), it shouldn't take you more than an hour to do both.

When it comes to the M3 I wouldn't trust anyone but Kendal, owner of AutoTech. I know I'm biased because he sponsors me but he really seems to be the front runner when it comes to this car. Not only did he used to be a master tech at Baron but he really does care and try to help us local enthusiests any way he can.
I completely agree with ya. Even on my lowly 323 he has answered plenty of questions and always been nice to talk to on the phone. He has done a bit of work on the car and the service and prices were alway spot on.
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Old 07-18-2012, 02:14 PM   #15816
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Just a little update since last news was I was selling the car. I've talked the my lady into holding off until this winter for us to make a final decision on selling the car. The main reason she thought it would be best to sell was because the time and the money that I spent on it. Iíve agreed to spend less time working on it and since Iím away from all my car friends I will spend hardly any time going to meets. Iíve also agreed to spend less money, which is easy since the car is pretty much done for what I need. My plan now is to pick up a set of super cheap street tires and run those on one set of wheels then run the slicks (300-400 a set) on the other set. Iíve arranged one track day this September with a owners rep for the project Iím working on. This way I can still drive the car on the street and to/from the track and still have that sticky rubber on the track. Hopefully with me cutting back a bit she will chill out and quit *****ing so much about me never being around. Cutting back in the end will be better than selling the car.

Now on to the fun part. The last two weeks the job sites power has been down so Iíve been reading a ton. I picked up the Carroll Smith series about chassis and suspension tuning earlier this year but hadnít really had a chance to dive into them. After getting some reading in Iíve been contacting a number of shops and reputable tuners to find out some of their secrets. Now Iím ready to take the car to a whole new level. Iíll be working with both the splitter and wing angle as well as the ride heights and spring rates (springs are cheap). Iím then gonna get the car corner balanced so I can really ring all there is out of this car. Then it will be off to High Plains Raceway this September.
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Old 07-18-2012, 02:14 PM   #15817
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Sorry for the essay style post.
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Old 07-18-2012, 03:10 PM   #15818
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It's been kinda slow at work today so I've been searching for some of Turner Motorsports old Grand-AM e46 M3 videos. Just watch these guys ringing the necks of these cars.



I know this is an e92 but it really shows the difference between DE driving and driving a car at the absolute limit. If you know anything about GT driving then you know Bill Auberlen is one of the best. Look at how he stabs at the gas and brake pedals to help rotate the car quickly then rolls back on the throttle.



Another two of the best GT drivers. Joey Hand who is now driving DTM and ALMS and Andy Lally. Great battle.



One more, e46 vs. e92
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Old 07-18-2012, 03:27 PM   #15819
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Glad you worked out keeping the car! Hopefully things go smoothly with it from here on out.

Cool videos, pretty neat to see the guy's footwork in the 2nd video.

I've wondered what it would be like if you had gas/brake as paddles on the steering wheel and a shifter at your feet. It would have to be a sequential patter box or something so you didnt have to worry about pattern. And a fully electronic fly-by-wire throttle and brake setup, but I just wonder how it would change the dynamics of racing. You wouldnt have any heel-toe to worry about or anything like that. Hmmm
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Old 07-18-2012, 03:41 PM   #15820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubenk View Post
Glad you worked out keeping the car! Hopefully things go smoothly with it from here on out.

Cool videos, pretty neat to see the guy's footwork in the 2nd video.

I've wondered what it would be like if you had gas/brake as paddles on the steering wheel and a shifter at your feet. It would have to be a sequential patter box or something so you didnt have to worry about pattern. And a fully electronic fly-by-wire throttle and brake setup, but I just wonder how it would change the dynamics of racing. You wouldnt have any heel-toe to worry about or anything like that. Hmmm
Yeah hopefully it works out.

That footwork video just proves the differnce between what some people think of as good (overly smooth, brake, then easy on the gas), there are so many ways to control a car other than the steering wheel.

I talked to a couple guys about heel toe specifically and they both said that heel toe doesn't really make you faster it is just better on the drivetrain. If you can learn to work the clutch pedal with enough finess as to not upset the balance of the car then saving the drive train is the only plus from what I've been told. It's not like if you heel toe one lap and then don't the next your lap time will be 1 second faster than without it.
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