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Great Plains & Rocky Mountains
Have you seen another BMW while driving around in your area? Maybe you can find their car in the E46Fanatics Garage!
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:54 AM   #17221
Rubenk
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Only a couple solutions I see, none of which are pretty.

Drill/cut/grind the old stud out, weld a new bolt/nut on there and then bolt the assembly back on. Except you'd probably want to do it the same way to both sides so you have identical spacing.

Cut that section out, weld new bolt from the inside, then weld that section back in. Grind it all smooth and throw a coat of paint on and it would look nearly factory.

Depending on the load placed on that stud, you could grind it down, drill small hole and place a rivet right there.
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:57 AM   #17222
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Pics or I wont get it. The driveshafts i'm familiar to have a flat flange that bolts onto the rearend.



Nice!! My digital gauges are setup for those as well, but thats a different story.
Kyle, please take a picture of the end packed full of grease for Ruben.

As for the bolt/stud problem, you can pay a mobile welder 50 bucks to come out and weld a new stud on.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:26 AM   #17223
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Guage cluster is coming along. This is how it will stay for a few weeks until I can get the rest of the gauges and sensors installed. I thought about painting it now but I forsee some work in getting all the gauges to line up the same. I very happy with how it is turning out.

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Old 04-17-2013, 01:05 PM   #17224
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Well it was bothering me enough that I ran home over lunch and checked to see exactly how much thread I have left from the stud. It seems that I could get a nylon nut and use that rather than the washer/nut combo that is originally used. I know having a welder tack a new stud in would probably be best, but damn it I cant justify paying someone $50 for 2 minutes worth of work. Plus I know in 40-50k miles Im gonna have to replace the CSB.


....always the small crap that screws everything up... pun intended :|
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Old 04-18-2013, 02:21 PM   #17225
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I just got back from emissions testing and the car passed. I will have her registered tomorrow.
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Old 04-18-2013, 02:27 PM   #17226
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I just got back from emissions testing and the car passed. I will have her registered tomorrow.
Does it have stock headers right now?
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Old 04-18-2013, 03:27 PM   #17227
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Does it have stock headers right now?
When I bought it the car had SuperSprint V2 stepped hears, SuperSprint section one, SuperSprint resonated section 2, and SuperSprint race exhaust. I sold the SS section one and got a euro section one with cats.
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Old 04-18-2013, 03:32 PM   #17228
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When I bought it the car had SuperSprint V2 stepped hears, SuperSprint section one, SuperSprint resonated section 2, and SuperSprint race exhaust. I sold the SS section one and got a euro section one with cats.
Oh lawd


I'm kind of impressed to hear that the cats after the headers passed. CO probably has a pretty lax sniffer though.

Some day I'll have a baller exhaust. I think brakes and dampers have to come first though.

I need new rotors. I think it would be easier to get dampers if I didnt get PFC direct drives
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Old 04-18-2013, 04:53 PM   #17229
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When I bought it the car had SuperSprint V2 stepped hears, SuperSprint section one, SuperSprint resonated section 2, and SuperSprint race exhaust. I sold the SS section one and got a euro section one with cats.
So what you're saying is my car is now louder than Brad's car

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Oh lawd


I'm kind of impressed to hear that the cats after the headers passed. CO probably has a pretty lax sniffer though.

Some day I'll have a baller exhaust. I think brakes and dampers have to come first though.

I need new rotors. I think it would be easier to get dampers if I didnt get PFC direct drives
Let me know when you go with new rotors... I have to do the same by mid/late summer. Maybe we can get a deal or something...
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Old 04-18-2013, 04:57 PM   #17230
PerkM3
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Oh lawd


I'm kind of impressed to hear that the cats after the headers passed. CO probably has a pretty lax sniffer though.

Some day I'll have a baller exhaust. I think brakes and dampers have to come first though.

I need new rotors. I think it would be easier to get dampers if I didnt get PFC direct drives
DUDE!!!! You don't understand all the baller parts this car has on it. You'll have to check out my journal on M3forum.

I was nervous as hell about the test because I had never done one before seeing how Kansas could care less about that stuff. That and I was running race gas which someone told me may affect my esmissions. All was good though.

If you're thinking about PFC DD rotors hold on a bit. They are getting ready to release a CSL/ZCP sized rotor kit. They would be the exact same as the DD's just bigger.
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Old 04-18-2013, 04:57 PM   #17231
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So what you're saying is my car is now louder than Brad's car



Let me know when you go with new rotors... I have to do the same by mid/late summer. Maybe we can get a deal or something...
Yeah, between the resonator and cats it's really quite.
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:16 PM   #17232
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DUDE!!!! You don't understand all the baller parts this car has on it. You'll have to check out my journal on M3forum.

I was nervous as hell about the test because I had never done one before seeing how Kansas could care less about that stuff. That and I was running race gas which someone told me may affect my esmissions. All was good though.

If you're thinking about PFC DD rotors hold on a bit. They are getting ready to release a CSL/ZCP sized rotor kit. They would be the exact same as the DD's just bigger.
I need new rotors before I go out on the track, mine are below spec and very sketchy. The DD's are on backorder at bimmerworld right now and that's all I've figured out so far. I could just get oem blanks but it will take me 5 years to need new rotors. I don't think I'm going to r-comps any time soon so idk how much braking will be an issue. I think I'd rather have MCS dampers and blanks...
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:36 PM   #17233
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I need new rotors before I go out on the track, mine are below spec and very sketchy. The DD's are on backorder at bimmerworld right now and that's all I've figured out so far. I could just get oem blanks but it will take me 5 years to need new rotors. I don't think I'm going to r-comps any time soon so idk how much braking will be an issue. I think I'd rather have MCS dampers and blanks...
MCS dampers and blanks would be good. Remember though, don't go to crazy on spring rates. The higher the rates the stickier the rubber you need. With stiff spring rates you will overwork a street tire.

I know racing brake sells a good two piece rotor that people have been talking about.
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:44 PM   #17234
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I plan on continuing to run your old 530/670ish rates. Unfortunately this is just firm enough that I think it will take custom valving to make them work nicely with any street/non-high end damper.

I'll look into those rotors this weekend.
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:50 PM   #17235
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My dad's torque wrench is for sale at harbor freight for $12.99. I think I just decided on a "fathers day" present.
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:51 PM   #17236
PerkM3
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I plan on continuing to run your old 530/670ish rates. Unfortunately this is just firm enough that I think it will take custom valving to make them work nicely with any street/non-high end damper.

I'll look into those rotors this weekend.
Those rates should be a good mix. I'm talking more 800-1200 lbs.

BimmerWorld can get you some MCS dampers that are roughly valved for a spring rate window. A lot of guys do this so they can change springs for different tracks.
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:54 PM   #17237
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My car's limits are already way over my head, I see no reason to raise them. I just want it to work properly. My KW shocks dont like my racing springs... and it shows on the street. Ryan's car rode really nice even though his springs are like 50% more stiff than mine because his dampers were custom valved for it and set a full soft both compression and rebound.
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:58 PM   #17238
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For those of you who still live in KC, this is about what my car feels like taking the 75th street entry onto I35/ 69 from the east

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Old 04-18-2013, 06:07 PM   #17239
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My car's limits are already way over my head, I see no reason to raise them. I just want it to work properly. My KW shocks dont like my racing springs... and it shows on the street. Ryan's car rode really nice even though his springs are like 50% more stiff than mine because his dampers were custom valved for it and set a full soft both compression and rebound.
Yes sir.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:33 PM   #17240
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I also think running really high rates will hurt your low speed (street) grip... which would negate the supposed purpose of my car.
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