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DIY: Do It Yourself
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Old 12-03-2014, 12:06 AM   #1
AdaRi
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M54 Intake Manifold/ Coolant Hard Lines DIY

Well one or both of my coolant hard lines went out and I looked far and wide for a written DIY on this forum and multiple other to no avail.

I then decided that I would write my FIRST DIY for this job!!

This DIY takes about 5-8 hours to complete depending on skill level.
I would say it rates anywhere from a 7-8 on difficulty.

During this job, if you need to replace CCV system or any coolant lines, power steering lines, ICV, Throttle Body, DISA Valve, Intake boots etc. DO IT NOW!!
It is well worth it to go ahead and replace any of these parts while you are completing this job.

******I highly recommend changing the CCV system, all other coolant lines and Intake Boots on this job******

I will list all parts and tools SPECIFICALLY for this job only. All other parts can be found on other DIY's

Parts needed:

11 53 7 502 525 - Coolant Outlet Pipe (L shaped)
11 53 1 705 210 - Coolant Inlet Pipe (Straight)
11 61 1 436 631 - Intake Manifold Gasket
11 61 1 716 174 - Throttle body Gasket
11 61 1 437 453 - Idle Control Valve Grommet
Throttle body cleaner spray
engine cleaner/ degreaser
BMW coolant
shop towels



Tools Needed:

Flashlight
Magnet
Mirror
1/4" and 3/8" drive ratchets
Various extensions and other universal adapters
6, 10, 11, 13, 16 and 19mm sockets
T30 and T40 torx sockets
6mm flex nut driver
Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
Picks
Wire cutters
Pliers
compressed air/ ShopVac





Let's get started



1. Jack the car up on stands. Make sure your work space is safe and you have an open area for all of the parts you will be taking off.

2. Drain all of the coolant out through the expansion tank, radiator and the engine drain plug. This plug is located on the passenger side of the engine underneath the CATs.

When re-installing the tightening torque is:
Coolant drain plug to cylinder block
25 Nm (18 ft-lb)

[IMG][/IMG]

3. While draining go ahead and disconnect the battery and remove the following parts
intake duct
air box/ filter
MAF sensor and upper intake boot
micro filter housing assembly ( 4 T40 torx screws)
engine covers (2 10mm bolts and 2 10mm nuts)

4. After all of those are completed remove the DISA valve connector and DISA valve itself (2 T40 torx screws)
[IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

5. Remove the intake bellows. There are 2 clamps facing downward. (6mm screws for the clamps) If you are lucky they are not and it will be easier to get them with a screwdriver.
[IMG][/IMG]

If you need more room for this step you can remove the vacuum line next to it from the clamp. You will have to pry the clamp open.
[IMG][/IMG]

6. Remove the electrical box harness (2 nuts and 1 bolt all 10mm)
[IMG][/IMG]

7. Unplug the ICV and Throttle connectors.
[IMG][/IMG]

8. Unscrew the bolt holding the dipstick guide tube for more room (13mm)
[IMG][/IMG]

9. Remove the ICV (2 T40 torx screws) ****PULL HARD****
[IMG][/IMG]

10. Remove the Throttle Body (4 10mm bolts)
[IMG][/IMG]

11. Remove the vacuum line from the brake booster. The weather stripping will need to be taken off for this.
[IMG][/IMG]

12. Remove the bottom hose connecting to the CCV.
[IMG][/IMG]

13. Remove the Intake Manifold bottom bracket bolt. (16mm)
[IMG][/IMG]

14. Remove the connector to the purge valve.
[IMG][/IMG]

15. Remove the fuel line from the rear side of the Intake Manifold. This is very hard to get to and requires a push on while pulling method to release the mechanism. Just like the Power steering lines connecting to the front mount.
[IMG][/IMG]

16. Remove the CCV hose connected to the crank.
[IMG][/IMG]

17. Disconnect the battery line (19mm). This will be fed through the Intake Manifold while taking it off and will be fed back through while re-installing.
[IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

18. Remove the wires for the O2 sensors out of the way. "Hidden" zip ties might be holding these lines down on the back of the engine.
[IMG][/IMG]

19. Disconnect the vanos electrical connector.
[IMG][/IMG]

20. Unclip the fuel injector harness clips. One side of this clip MUST sit in the open slot on the side of the attachment in order to remove. *****BE VERY CAREFUL***** I highly recommend a magnet in case one pops off.
After you have uclipped, proceed to disconnect the fuel injector harness and move out of the way.
[IMG][/IMG]

21. Clean side of engine block that the Intake Manifold connects to with compressed air or a ShopVac. You DO NOT want any debris to fall inside of the Intake Manifold ports.

22. Remove the intake manifold bolts (there are 9 11mm bolts) the pattern is 1-1-2-1-2-1-1 front to back.
[IMG][/IMG]

23. Remove the Intake Manifold. (Have pliers ready)

When re-installing the tightening torque is:
Intake manifold to cylinder head
M7: 15 Nm (11 ft-lb)
M8: 22 Nm (16 ft-lb)

While removing, the coolant temp switch (wire located at the back portion of the fuel injector harness) will get hung up on the fuel line located on the back of the intake manifold. You can disconnect this or simply unwrap it from underneath the fuel line.

Also, there is another connector underneath the Intake Manifold (located underneath the rear 2 bolt pattern) that is connected to the Intake Manifold bottom bracket. You will need to get pliers and squeeze the clamp and push it through the bracket to remove.
[IMG][/IMG]

24. After removing the intake manifold, clean around each port with a shop towel and inspect each port for any debris. Remove any debris that you find.

25. Replace the Intake Manifold gaskets and any other parts such as the CCV system, coolant lines etc. at this point.
[IMG][/IMG]




Now on to the Coolant Inlet and Outlet Hard Lines. *****These lines are known to corrode and get stuck in the block***** you will have to pry the excess out with a screwdriver. Be careful not to break any tool inside these holes.


26. Loosen the banjo bolt (19mm) on the vanos line to have some wiggle room for removing the hard lines.

When re-installing the tightening torque is:
Oil line to VANOS unit (banjo bolt)
32 Nm (24 ft-lb)

[IMG][/IMG]

27. Remove the Inlet Hard Line (top) and remove the coolant line on adjacent side. (10mm nut and 13mm bolt)
[IMG][/IMG]

28. Remove the Outlet Hard Line (bottom "L" shaped) and remove the coolant line on adjacent side. (2 13mm bolts)
[IMG][/IMG]



NOW IT IS CLEANING TIME!!!!!

29. Use your engine cleaner/ degreaser to clean as much and everything that you can! Everyone loves a FRESH AS F#!& engine!

Before:
[IMG][/IMG]


After:
[IMG][/IMG]

30. Clean the inside of your ICV and Throttle body with the throttle body cleaner. get them as shiny as possible and you will notice a much improved throttle response once everything is re-installed.




To put back on, just go in reverse!!

Tightening torques:

Intake manifold to cylinder head
M7: 15 Nm (11 ft-lb)
M8: 22 Nm (16 ft-lb)

Coolant drain plug to cylinder block
25 Nm (18 ft-lb)

Oil line to VANOS unit (banjo bolt)
32 Nm (24 ft-lb)



Make sure everything is clean!!!

Over 200k miles and the engine bay is still FRESH AS F#!&
[IMG][/IMG]



CONGRATULATIONS!!!! You have now completed this WHOLE job!!!!


If you have any questions or anything to add feel free to comment and I will be sure to answer and/or add anything.

Go easy on me. This is my first DIY........ I hope you all enjoy!!
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Intake manifold/ Coolant Hard Line DIY

Last edited by AdaRi; 12-03-2014 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 12-03-2014, 01:06 AM   #2
SilberVogel
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Pictures are worth a thousand words and always love seeing a DIY full of them. Nice job! As you mentioned, perfect opportunity to tackle a lot of other areas with this one.

Might also want to add some torque specs to the steps; here's a few from the Bentley.

Tightening torques:

Intake manifold to cylinder head
M7: 15 Nm (11 ft-lb)
M8: 22 Nm (16 ft-lb)

Coolant drain plug to cylinder block
25 Nm (18 ft-lb)

Oil line to VANOS unit (banjo bolt)
32 Nm (24 ft-lb)
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Last edited by SilberVogel; 12-03-2014 at 01:10 AM.
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Old 12-03-2014, 01:17 AM   #3
AdaRi
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Added! I love pics in DIY's as well so I figured I would add some on every step!

Thanks for the feedback SilberVogel!
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Old 03-15-2015, 03:43 PM   #4
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1-10 whats the degree of difficulty and duration on this. I've replaced my CCV and hoses before, tackled the ICV and TB Gasket while I was there. I'm considering replacing my OFHG soon now that that the weather ha changed, and am tempted to get at the Manifold Gaskets in the same day. I also want to examine the condition on the Jet Pump's hose while I'm underneath.
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Last edited by Delineation; 03-15-2015 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 03-15-2015, 04:07 PM   #5
AdaRi
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I would rate it as a 7-8 difficulty. You can get it done in 4-8 hours depending on your skill level and if you are only replacing the hard coolant hoses with the respectful gaskets. Personally I worked about 5 hours per day for 3 days straight. The first day I removed all parts and thoroughly cleaned them. The second day I literally degreased and cleaned the entire engine bay and all components. I was a little OCD on that lol. The third day I put everything back together (the easy part) and wrote the DIY.
I did not have all of the tools necessary for the job when I started so that played into how long it took me as well. Plus I replaced the more than just the hard lines and manifold gasket.
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Old 04-22-2015, 11:15 PM   #6
AdaRi
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Bumping this thread for anyone else who is going through this same problem.

Easy sign of these hard lines failing is coolant in the drivers side waffle of your engine block.
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Old 04-22-2015, 11:17 PM   #7
AdaRi
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Picture reference for leak http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1059106
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Old 07-28-2015, 06:31 PM   #8
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Awesome job! The pictures and tag lines are great resources. One of the best DIY's i have seen. Now can you do a DIY session on engine removal and installation in your spare time this weekend!
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Old 09-18-2015, 01:57 PM   #9
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Thanks for the awesome diy. I am in the process of doing a bunch of overhaul on my project 330I that I recently picked up. I was originally planning on just replacing the upper and lower coolant hoses along with exp tank, thermostat and WP. But when I saw how the upper and lower coolant hoses are stuck(heat gun did not help, so had to cut them off) and now decided to change all the above + the hard coolant lines and heater/water lines along with the Radiator. I had the intake manifold off to replace the sec air pump parts and also the starter. All in all in just turned out to a huge project..

Anyways, quick question for you, I tried to remove the hard lines few min ago and they were pretty stuck in there and when I tried to wiggle the lines, I broke them at the tip.. I had to use a combination of silicone lube/WD 40, flat head, a pick tool and pliers to get the rest of it. I broke them in to pieces while trying to remove them and wondering if there is a chance some of it could have fallen inside? Any thoughts and consequences if it fell in there? Also, how did you clean the inside surfaces before installing the new lines? I think I am seeing a little bit of the rubber seal residue in there...

Again, a huge thanks.. This is my first big project. I've done oil changes before, but nothing this big... This weekend is going to be a busy week, Husker BMW just sent me a pile of parts and I am getting ready to install them..
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Old 09-21-2015, 10:16 PM   #10
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The same exact thing happened to me. I ended up taking the water pump off for the front part of the hoses and removing any debris. I actually had a L shaped screwdriver break on me while i was getting it out and i thought it fell in the block......LOL
Luckily it did not so when i removed the water pump I was able to retrieve it. As for any consequences, I did not notice any and I am sure there were very small pieces of debris in there. The only thing I could think of that could happen is a possible clog in the future. This would definitely happen over a long amount of time though. I would recommend doing an entire coolant flush. So drain out all of the coolant from the expansion tank, radiator and engine block. After that pour distilled water in for a flush. You can start the car with just the distilled water but ONLY if everything is put back together. after you run the car for a short moment drain everything out again. You can repeat that process until you feel comfortable.
I cleaned the inside surfaces with a microfiber cloth. Just scrubbed the gunk off for a minute and it looked good as new. I would not advise the rubber seal. This can make it even more complicated for future work. The dual o ring seal is more than enough. If you have already used it, there will be no harm.
Congratulations on your first big project and all the parts from Husker! They can seem scary but they are actually quite a bit of fun and a great learning process.

Sorry for the late response BTW.


~AdaRi
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Old 09-22-2015, 11:44 PM   #11
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Thanks AdaRi. I actually used steel wool 0000 to scrub of the old rubber/pipe material. It definitely removed some Aluminium from both of the inlets. Also, I used a pcik/flat head and made light gentle taps to break the stuck pipe. That actually put some fine scratches that I could feel using my finger nail. So I did not want to take a chance and hence used some gasket sealer. I hope I don't have to go in there for another 100K.. So I am not worried about the gasket material until that point

Also, in the inlet where the L shaped pipe goes in, did you notice a semi circle lip/ridge towards the end of the inlet? When I put my finger in there to clean, I noticed a semi circle ridge and was wondering if I broke the full circle? I did not see any metal particles when I removed the waterpump except for some light shavings because of me using steel wool..
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Old 09-23-2015, 12:19 AM   #12
AdaRi
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Lol yeah that gasket sealer actually helped then! Honestly those pipes should hold over 150k so no worries on working on it for a while. The semi circle is supposed to be there. You would have to use a huge amount of pressure to chip that off.
I hope everything went well for you! I tried to make the DIY as informative as possible!
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Old 01-22-2016, 12:28 PM   #13
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I know I posted these somewhere else but wanted I'm desperate to figure out wtf is going on with my car.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...9&postcount=40

Anyone seen this before?
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Old 01-22-2016, 05:17 PM   #14
latitude39
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That's new to me.

There is no pipe coming OUT of the cylinder head, which is supposed to feed the heater valve. Does this car have heat?

Is this an M56 engine? A photo from the top would tell me.



Quote:
Originally Posted by kidrobot_ View Post
I know I posted these somewhere else but wanted I'm desperate to figure out wtf is going on with my car.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...9&postcount=40

Anyone seen this before?
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:54 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by latitude39 View Post
That's new to me.

There is no pipe coming OUT of the cylinder head, which is supposed to feed the heater valve. Does this car have heat?

Is this an M56 engine? A photo from the top would tell me.
I believe I've figured it out. It's a hose from the E60 series. I'm still confused on how this happened, esp considering those blue zip ties are still there which I believe are from the factory.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...2&postcount=46
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Old 01-23-2016, 08:08 AM   #16
latitude39
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Nice diagram.

It looks like someone got creative in using E60 plumbing on an E46. Good thing you're in a warm place and didn't need the heat.
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Old 10-08-2016, 11:25 AM   #17
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awesome thread

just wanted to comment on this so maybe I can find it later. we are about to do this job on my 2001 BMW that we just bought because the coolant line was brutally slayed in the back of the engine by someone who did not know how to fix the coolant issue. I am going to be replacing everything we can afford to replace so we never have to do this again. my husband and I are doing this job ourselves...he is a mechanic and has worked on everything from big rigs to my old Volvo and everything in between. this is our first bmw...so we are doing all the research ahead of time so we don't make any mistakes. I will definitely be using this as a guide along with the videos we have watched...
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Old 10-08-2016, 12:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankeebmwgirl View Post
just wanted to comment on this so maybe I can find it later. we are about to do this job on my 2001 BMW that we just bought because the coolant line was brutally slayed in the back of the engine by someone who did not know how to fix the coolant issue. I am going to be replacing everything we can afford to replace so we never have to do this again. my husband and I are doing this job ourselves...he is a mechanic and has worked on everything from big rigs to my old Volvo and everything in between. this is our first bmw...so we are doing all the research ahead of time so we don't make any mistakes. I will definitely be using this as a guide along with the videos we have watched...
It's actually very easy to remove the manifold and all other components on the driver's side of the engine.....except for the stater.

You can also clean the manifold while you're at it. I soaked it in blue Dawn, inside a cheap plastic storage bin from Target for about 30 mins. The water turned dirty almost immediately. Use a plastic bristle brush to agitate the dirty areas, also get inside where you can. Rinse it thoroughly, then use a compressor later to blow it out. Now, if you decide to do this, you'll also want to replace a bunch of o-rings on various parts of it.

Chances are the 2 hard coolant lines will be corroded, on the ends which connect to the block. Mine were badly corroded/melted. I didn't take pics before I threw them out but you can find plenty of people with the same issue on here.

If you're having trouble pulling the lines from the block: gently rock the lines from side to side. Do not try and rip them out hard. You don't want the end parts falling into the block. After you pull the lines, check the ends to see if anything broke off. Be very careful and use a small pick to pry the pieces out. You don't want that falling into the block.
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Old 10-08-2016, 12:57 PM   #19
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What we have discovered is that someone broke the plastic coupler from the coolant hose that goes to the back of the engine and we think the plastic part that used to be on the end of the hose is still in the hole in the back....so that's why we are going to do this and fix it properly.
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Old 10-14-2016, 02:07 PM   #20
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In my case the ends of both the water and heater inlet pipes (probably original and 13 years old) broke off inside the engine block. The ends were stuck in really well with their double O-rings, and I had to pry them out in pieces with a pick. Did this because I was slowly losing coolant and didn't see any other obvious leaks, but I did find a possible radiator end tank leak recently with some dried coolant residue on the bottom left of the radiator beneath the expansion tank. Need to see now if I keep losing coolant. If yes, will probably replace radiator. If still losing coolant after that, I will need to suspect a head gasket failure.
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