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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 04-01-2010, 05:25 PM   #1
keromin4151
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Angry Service Engine Code increased after Replacing Intake boot

Hey guys,

my first technical post! I spend all morning struggling with manifold intake boot because freaking o-ring so difficult to reach. Anyhow, I manage to replace the cracked intake boot and put back both MAF unit and filter unit.

I replaced the manifold intake air boot because my 330i was throwing p0171 and p0174. So, i search the forum and decide to pop the trunk and check for any vacuum leaks. Found it on a small arm that came off the intake boot. Ordered the part and replaced it.

I "accidently" turn the engine before putting the system back. I took the car to the autozone and now it is throwing P2227 (Baro Sensor Performance) and P0102 (Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low input).

The car itself feels whole lot better after cleaning the MAF with MAF cleaner and replacing the torn boot. But I am worried about additional code i got from autozone.

Any idea on what to do?

P.S. I don't think i damaged the MAF unit. it wasn't wiggling when i last checked after cleaning.

Many thanks in advance

As of 10th of April, the CD doesn't work either...BMW is so far unpleasant experience for me...

Last edited by keromin4151; 04-10-2010 at 04:40 PM. Reason: ADDITIONAL FAILURE!
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:42 AM   #2
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The two new codes might very well be a result of "accidentally" starting the engine before you had everything properly hooked up. Now that you have it back together, it may take a few starts before the codes clear, or you could ask AutoZone to reset the codes and see if they return.

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Old 04-03-2010, 06:58 PM   #3
keromin4151
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Thanks 325myAZ,

I guess it should be warmer at Arizona now that in NY the trees started budding leaves. I turned the car's ignition about five times since fix and made a 4 hour trip from Binghamton NY to NY long Island. The code still remains. I checked for any major leak because i didn't secure the intake boot correctly and i couldn't find such leakage. I checked for sensors that i displaced while changed the intake boot and couldn't find any leakage. The connector, which connects two intake boot, even though i didn't use any acid-free grease, seem to have been secured properly with O-rings

One of thing with post-fix that i noticed was that car now increases RPM whenever i step on a brake pedal. Second thing i noticed was that neutral RPM was about 450 lower than RPM when i stepped on a brake during stop (~1100 RPM). Last thing i noticed was that whenever i drive in the city for awhile, the car seem to rev RPM up and down (from 1000 RPM to 1300 RPM) constantly while i am stopping on a brake. It almost feels like it is going to stall except it doesn't. When i let go of the brake after putting hand brake up, the car decreases RPM and stays there very constantly at 550 RPM ish.

I don't know what is going on with the car but i don't hear noise that i heard from youtube videos concerning mal-functioning MAF unit.

I did make trip to Autozone at Binghamton and they said "we can't reset your Service engine soon" light because that would be a violation of federal regulation. BLah blah. So, i still have light on. I don't know anyone who has code reader.

Thank you for the response and I'll let you know if this light goes off after re-filling gas with injector cleaner by techron.

Thanks for welcoming me to the forum
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Old 04-04-2010, 05:36 AM   #4
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After replacing my air filter and cleaning the MAF my cars revs now bounce up and down while I am stationary as well. They bounce from ~500 to ~1100. Is there an idle control valve on these cars that needs to be adjusted as the air intake has changed?
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Old 04-05-2010, 04:19 PM   #5
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Dear Scott87,

I think you have the same issue as i have. This reving doesn't occur right away when you start the engine. You had to be driving little for the car to really shake when it reach 1100 rpm and then drop down to 900 to rev up again when you step on your break.
I am going to read more about ICV since there might be issue with that...I am approaching 85K miles and i think that might be the issue. I am going to read TIS and let you know what's up.
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Old 04-06-2010, 11:11 AM   #6
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Subscribed! I also have a 330i ZHP. Same thing. Usually has a rough start, drive for a bit, then at a stop the RPM's surge from 500-1100 and back over and over. The car can be in neutral or in gear.

Just got the car out of storage on the weekend and ran the codes with a Peake tool I picked up over the winter. Codes had been stored for a long while but multiple misfires, mixture prep banks 1+2, and idle speed implausible (air leakage). Put about 250km's on the car before the SES light came on again.

From what I've read I think I'll replace the intake boot as well as have a look at the ICV and DISA. The likely suspects. I've cleaned the MAF and replaced the fuel filter in the recent past with no improvement.
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Old 04-07-2010, 01:17 PM   #7
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Dear MacFady,

From what i think would have happen, i think when the vacuum pressure dropped significantly and we decided to ignore the service engine light on, the oil from somewhere got into the system and clogged up somewhere. The last sentence is still vague since i am still learning about engine. It is just a possibility since whenever the vacuum pressure drop on air intake manifold of my laboratory equipments, the floor pump creating the vacuum usually spurts out oil everywhere if not tighten perfectly.

For my case, i've seen oils droplet all around my engine area and that is why i am guess this idle issue is happening to me due to oil spill (Currently). I haven't had time to clean out the ICV unit since it is located behind DISA unit and is quite troublesome to get to...might as well get other intake boot, grease it up with acid-free grease and then really clean the DISA unit again. When i took the DISA unit out there were some carbon deposit on the opening...i don't think they would significantly change the air flow...though that need to be examined. During this sunday after trip to Woodbury Outlet on saturday (long trip needed to re-charge my key battery), I am thinking about cleaning ICV with some brake cleaner while i do this on sunday. I haven't decided which brake cleaner is safe to do this with.

Oh yeah, I parked my car on university parking lot and some a****** scratch my trunk emblem off. I was thinking about upgrading it to carbon fiber set...but that has to wait until i get this issue taken care of.

My parents are giving me hard time because i purchased Used BMW but i really wanted zhp of my own that i could service without worrying that i just f***ed up 45000 dollar car, ya know?

cleaning MAF sensor and getting rid of carbon deposit on DISA valve (carefully) didn't do anything to this idle issue. I'll let you know what's up. If anything, I am going to make a trip to my favorite mechanic (whom i purchase this car from) down at South Jersey and let ya know what he concludes. He is such a greasemonkey and he was rebuilding 8-series engine last time i saw him along with all the wiring (Looked hectic).
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Old 04-08-2010, 05:04 PM   #8
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Cleaned MAF sensor again...it seemed to ease the idle issue that occurs after driving for a while (i remain hopeful that i don't have to spend too much time fixing it). I guess it might have gotten dirty when i was changing out the intake boot? No clue. Still have 500 rpm jump followed by rough idle whenever i step on brake trying to get the gear in reverse when coming out of the parking space. Read some TIS articles...RPM should change depending on whether your battery state, whether AC is on or not blah blah...but it shouldn't jump 500 rpm...it listed +- 100 RPM.
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Old 04-08-2010, 05:15 PM   #9
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I had a similar issue on my old 318i (E36). I had a tear in my intake boot i didn't know about. When ever i hit the accelerator the slight rocking motion of the engine coupled with the bigger pressue difference opened up the tear and i would get massive cuts and surges of power. Like a learner driver 'kangarooing' down the road!!! It also did it if i braked hard, i assume some movement somewhere in the components made the tear leak more and bam engine went haywire again. Are you 100% sure all clips, hoses and connections are spot on? I fixed my leak with some tape over the tear for 1, super happy i was
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Old 04-09-2010, 07:38 PM   #10
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first things to check

1)check intake boots
2)DISA (u need to pull it out and check if its free spinning and also check the oring)
3)CCV (if the pipes/lines have a crack it will be vacuum leak, ALSO if u've done ccv DIY and u might have forgotten to put the cab on the breather valve
4)Check MAF sensor (for me this was the issue, maf would not read correctly above 50mph. NOTE: i've cleaned my MAF more than 10 times it didnt do jack!)
5)O-ring on dipstick tube needs to be checked as well

its EITHER vacuum leak OR bad MAF, best thing is have ur car smoke-checked and if u dont see any vacuum leak, then swap MAF with friends or something for a little bit and test if the codes come back if the codes do not come back then u know its ur MAF

and as far as misfire; check if u need to change ur plugs
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Old 04-10-2010, 04:54 PM   #11
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Haha, well I checked the intake boot numerous times, cleaned the MAF a handful, changed the plugs in the recent past, didn't do anything at all. I checked the DISA after reading a helpful thread on the site here and following this link



No, no ticking up front or over the DISA and pulling the plug made no change in anything. I was going to have a look at the ICV but decided to get a long mirror and flashlight and really have a thorough look at the lower boot. Low and behold look what I find.



I think I was expecting to see it mainly in the bends of the main boot, I wasn't really looking at this small part Hope this saves someone else some headaches. So easy to check just do it right the first time
Thanks for all the feedback xjunmoonx, you just summed up well what I had to gathered from numerous threads. If I'm still getting mixture codes I may find someone to swap MAF's for an afternoon, that's a good idea. BTW beautiful sedan.
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Old 04-12-2010, 04:49 PM   #12
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Thanks for reply xjunmoonx & MacFady,

1)I already check the intake boot - There was no tear anymore (since i replaced it with brand spanking new one) - no leak due to poor installation. Checked it like ten times.
2) Last time i was cleaning DISA, it wasn't free spinning. Plus, there is no rattling. It works again when you reconnect.
3) (I never did any work on ccv - nor did i checked for any diagrams yet. I'll let you know if i got a crack). CCV (if the pipes/lines have a crack it will be vacuum leak, ALSO if u've done ccv DIY and u might have forgotten to put the cab on the breather valve
4)I did clean MAF again but the rough idle issue is not felt during high speed. It is only in first gear idle that i noticed the RPM fluctuation.
5) (will check on) O-ring on dipstick tube needs to be checked as well.

Ordered Code Reader and should be arriving within week. Going to clear it to see which one comes back (I already drove more than 100 miles...I am assuming something is holding "SES" light to stay on). No luck at finding autozone guy who will clear the code during this time. Oh well.

Didn't have time to clean out the Idle control valve but did use Techron on last gas-fill....didn't do much on idle issue (guessing it is not clogged fuel injector).

Thanks guys.
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Old 04-14-2010, 01:42 PM   #13
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Might be Stupid question...after installing the intake boot, do i need to reset the SES light to off to restore it back to normal condition?
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Old 04-15-2010, 07:29 PM   #14
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I guess some smile is in the order...I followed the DIY for replacing the battery because the card won't lock and unlock...open the key to find that one of the metal strip that is holding the battery came loose. Soldered it up and now it works fine

Still haven't fix this darn issue with intake boot. it is coughing like grandma...waiting for code reader to arrive. Bimmertools apparently uses USPS...hmm...i still like how fast they shipped it out.

I'll keep you guys updated.
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Old 04-15-2010, 08:00 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by keromin4151 View Post
Still haven't fix this darn issue with intake boot. it is coughing like grandma...waiting for code reader to arrive. Bimmertools apparently uses USPS...hmm...i still like how fast they shipped it out.

I'll keep you guys updated.
Hi - thanks so much for the order. If yours was order 309, it shipped yesterday morning. Please let me know if the email I sent yesterday or the tracking information was not received in your inbox.

ken@bimmertools.com if you have any questions about the tool, the shipping/tracking information, or any of our other products.

Thanks again for the order and support!

Ken
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Old 04-15-2010, 08:05 PM   #16
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FYI - I just checked tracking for order 309, and it shows as delivered as of 12:28pm today. Please email me asap if you did not receive this shipment.
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:10 PM   #17
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Oh man...such a speedy reply. I wonder if bimmertools search their name tag every few hours through search function. All in all...I am just anxious. I am sure the shipment will come in ten days.

Mr Ken, I pm'ed you the correct order number
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:11 PM   #18
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Oh man...such a speedy reply. I wonder if bimmertools search their name tag every few hours through search function.



Replied to your PM.
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Old 04-16-2010, 04:04 PM   #19
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Jeez I guess there is problem still. I guess i have to sit down with bimmertool manual and look into what these code really corresponds to (I reset the SES light first thing when i got the code reader & it came back immediately after running single errand).

Definitely recommend getting bimmertools (i hope i don't sound like salesman), there customer service was too speedy (little bit intimidating )

I'll post what the code reader shows & we'll go from there. I'll post later in the day. Hope everyone took care of their issues.
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Old 04-16-2010, 06:59 PM   #20
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Yay after quick reset and re-reading the SES light, 4 codes is now down to c2783 (=> Hot film air mass meter (MAF sensor)). That's still bit expensive project. So, i am going to go search if there is any post relating to DIY fixing your own MAF sensor.

I'll let you guys know how that goes.
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