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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 04-12-2010, 09:03 PM   #1
///Orient3
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NA BUILD --- Assembly to Start Up

Here are some of the parts:

Drivetrain

Clutch Disc: Sachs E34 M5
Pressure Plate: Sachs E36 M3
Flywheel: JB Racing E36 M3 lightweight (10 lbs)

Valvetrain

Intake Valves: +1 mm Supertech
Exhaust Valves: +1 mm Supertech
Valve Springs: Supertech double valve springs
Seats/Retainers: Supertech Titanium
Camshafts: Schrick 264/248
Vanos: Beisan Systems vanos seals and rattle kit
Chains: Iwis Racing

Pistons & Rods

Pistons: CP Pistons 11.3:1 compression Ratio, 84.5mm
Rods: Eagle Forged H-Beam
Crank: B30 crankshaft
Head Studs: Raceware
Main Studs: Raceware

Intake

Manifold: B30 w/ throttle body & injectors
Intake: Custom w/ Conforti heat shield

Exhaust

Headers: Custom
Exhaust: Custom, 2.5 inch piping to two Magnaflow mufflers w/ quad tips

Cooling

Hoses: Stett silicone radiator hoses, Fragola Performance
Oil Cooler: Earl's Temp-a-cure 13 row, filter housing tapped w/ AN fittings

Gauges

Oil Temp: Stack 52MM electronic
Oil Pressure: Stack 52MM electronic
Coolant Temp: Stack 52MM electronic

Machine Work

Porting: intake and exhaust ports port and polish, valve job
Boring: 84.5mm bore and hone
Balancing: crankshaft, pistons, rods, flywheel, clutch
+ Misc.

On to the assembly:

I spent most of the weekend celebrating my birthday with family and friends, but I did get some things done.

Workspace


Main caps and bearings, along with test fitted Raceware studs under the oil pump (turned down on a lathe to deal with clearance issues)


Crankshaft and main stud installation








11.3:1 CP pistons






Piston Installation




That is it for now. Everything has gone smoothly so far: the main studs are all holding torque, the pistons went in effortlessly, and the crank turns freely. More is on the way as I make progress.
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Old 04-12-2010, 09:42 PM   #2
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Your exhaust and cam choices are questionable, but otherwise good luck.
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Old 04-12-2010, 09:44 PM   #3
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Your exhaust and cam choices are questionable, but otherwise good luck.
I'm curious why you think this?
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Old 04-12-2010, 10:19 PM   #4
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I'm curious why you think this?
The first part I'm going on fact: You need a cross over in the exhaust: true duals are terrible, I've posted on this MANY time already. The second is merely an opinion. I would have went with high performance Shrick cams, especially if I was upgrading the valve-train. Most of the time, running stiffer springs on cams made for stock just leads to more wear.
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Old 04-12-2010, 10:37 PM   #5
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The first part I'm going on fact: You need a cross over in the exhaust: true duals are terrible, I've posted on this MANY time already. The second is merely an opinion. I would have went with high performance Shrick cams, especially if I was upgrading the valve-train. Most of the time, running stiffer springs on cams made for stock just leads to more wear.
Something like this;


You couldn't have known, because it isn't listed, but there are far, far more parts involved in this build than this small list.

As far as the springs go, Supertech makes three different sets of springs that can be used on the M54, and these were chosen specifically for 264/248s. I can always swap out cams in the future, and Supertech has informed me what the effective range for these springs are as far as cams go. That being said, 264/248s are my starting point, and I never track my car, so we'll see where my cam exploits take me in the future.
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:19 AM   #6
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Looks great so far. What's your ETA to crank it up?
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:28 AM   #7
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awesome keep it up, hey that's what she said
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:42 AM   #8
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One day, I too would like to have the time and $ to build an engine from the bare block up Happy building!
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Old 04-13-2010, 08:42 AM   #9
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Great thread
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:34 AM   #10
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Looks great so far. What's your ETA to crank it up?
Thanks. I'd give you one, but it seems like I'm wrong on every deadline I've set for this build. I have been making a lot of progress, I pressed the main seals this morning, and drilled out the windage tray with a uni-bit for the main studs last night. I should be able to move on to the cylinder head tonight after the gym. The only parts I am waiting on are the Beisan stuff.
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:37 AM   #11
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One day, I too would like to have the time and $ to build an engine from the bare block up Happy building!
A lot of it is about effort...for several years, I didn't even buy an intake for the car, because I knew it wouldn't be what I was looking for. I took all that money I didn't spend on the engine then, and threw it all at the project at once now. It does get extremely expensive, though.
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:39 AM   #12
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Great thread
Thank you, sir, I try...
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Old 04-13-2010, 03:30 PM   #13
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New crank pulley perhaps?
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Old 04-13-2010, 03:40 PM   #14
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I wish we could get enough interest to have an off-the-shelf option.

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New crank pulley perhaps?
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Old 04-13-2010, 04:31 PM   #15
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I wish we could get enough interest to have an off-the-shelf option.
Yeah, not right now, I need my car back, but I will definitely be searching for options such as this as soon as I get it started up. My damper has been balanced with the entire rotating assembly, and it NEEDED it.
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Old 04-13-2010, 04:46 PM   #16
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My damper has been balanced with the entire rotating assembly, and it NEEDED it.
Yikes- what's the production date of the engine?
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Old 04-13-2010, 05:16 PM   #17
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Yikes- what's the production date of the engine?
1/03. Yikes isn't the correct word, because if you look at the balancing sheet, or were to take an m54 with even a couple thousand miles on it and go to actually balance it, you would realize that while they are within tolerance, they are certainly not zero balanced.

In addition, because the counterweights of a crankshaft are meant to offset the weight of the rods and pistons, everything changes when your rods and pistons change. The "NEEDED" it portion of the statement is made with the assumption that minor changes (a couple of grams here or there) can make a substantial difference. Also, production date wouldn't particularly matter. As a side note, my engine had ~ 55,000 miles on it when I pulled it.
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Old 04-13-2010, 05:40 PM   #18
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1/03. Yikes isn't the correct word, because if you look at the balancing sheet, or were to take an m54 with even a couple thousand miles on it and go to actually balance it, you would realize that while they are within tolerance, they are certainly not zero balanced.

In addition, because the counterweights of a crankshaft are meant to offset the weight of the rods and pistons, everything changes when your rods and pistons change. The "NEEDED" it portion of the statement is made with the assumption that minor changes (a couple of grams here or there) can make a substantial difference. Also, production date wouldn't particularly matter. As a side note, my engine had ~ 55,000 miles on it when I pulled it.
Ah - understood. There's a different part number for the vibration damper from 9/2002 onward and I was wondering if it's any improvement over the earlier part.
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Old 04-13-2010, 05:47 PM   #19
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You are missing something on your build list:

Multiple cases of beer.
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Old 04-13-2010, 05:53 PM   #20
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you are missing something on your build list:

Multiple cases of beer.
+1
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