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Old 04-30-2010, 09:44 PM   #241
Breyton-BMW
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^Cranks are not FSA carbon but that Fox fork is about $380 and those Hayes brakes about $150 already. That Mavic wheelset is also $$$. I also see Easton seatpost and stem so I presume handlebars are Easton as well. Nice components overall. Time to muddy that bike, Ara. Lol!
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Old 04-30-2010, 10:19 PM   #242
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^Cranks are not FSA carbon but that Fox fork is about $380 and those Hayes brakes about $150 already. That Mavic wheelset is also $$$. I also see Easton seatpost and stem so I presume handlebars are Easton as well. Nice components overall. Time to muddy that bike, Ara. Lol!
not disagreeing with you- I said the bike has nice components. However, I would never drop $2k on a hardtail, unless it was carbon (the carbon's are a bit more expensive though). I would much rather get a full suspension bike, with lower-quality components (like an entry level stumpy fsr comp). Half the fun is upgrading your components as you get better with components that are better suited to you.

Anyway, its a nice bike no doubt, congrats!
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Old 04-30-2010, 10:48 PM   #243
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how do you guys like the sram shifters? I'm looking at the trek fuel ex 5, but I'm not a fan of sram shifters at all. the whole thumb-thumb shifting is terrible to to me. The sram shifters alone make me want to pay the extra for the ex 6 instead.

If I can price out the parts I want for cheap on ebay, it might be worthwhile to pickup the ex5 and upgrade it myself
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Old 04-30-2010, 11:12 PM   #244
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I just upgraded to SRAM from Shimano because I prefer the feel...most of the people I ride with run SRAM as well.....I've personally always liked them over Shimano
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Old 04-30-2010, 11:20 PM   #245
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Yea, the brakes are absolute garbage on it as well. I haven't changed them yet, but I definitely will. I have juicy 5's on my mt bike, and it is literally night and day. I will probably go that route when its time for brakes.


ARA- did you really spend $2k on a hardtail? I see it has good components (i see xt rear derailleur, fsa carbon crank, etc), but I don't see that thing being worth $2k. For $500 more, you could have gotten a decent fs bike that would ride much better than that one (of course wouldn't have that level of components, but similar).
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not disagreeing with you- I said the bike has nice components. However, I would never drop $2k on a hardtail, unless it was carbon (the carbon's are a bit more expensive though). I would much rather get a full suspension bike, with lower-quality components (like an entry level stumpy fsr comp). Half the fun is upgrading your components as you get better with components that are better suited to you.

Anyway, its a nice bike no doubt, congrats!
There's nothing wrong with spending that on a quality hardtail 29er. As a beginner, he needs to worry more about getting on the trail and riding than adjusting all his suspension components. Yes, he will get it set up by the LBS, but a FS is more long term maintenance as well.

I think a hardtail 29er is a great solution for a first bike. It gives you the terrain capabilities of a low-travel 26er with a sturdy frame that can be ridden for several seasons. It has a sage selection of components as well.
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Old 04-30-2010, 11:42 PM   #246
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what's everyones opinion on low-normal? I think it's the best thing ever, but I dont think it's very popular. I had a full XT setup on the old bike and I couldnt find any faults in it. The transitions between gears (up or down) was always so smooth.
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Old 05-01-2010, 04:08 AM   #247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pimpn04coupe View Post
not disagreeing with you- I said the bike has nice components. However, I would never drop $2k on a hardtail, unless it was carbon (the carbon's are a bit more expensive though). I would much rather get a full suspension bike, with lower-quality components (like an entry level stumpy fsr comp). Half the fun is upgrading your components as you get better with components that are better suited to you.

Anyway, its a nice bike no doubt, congrats!
Yeah it is a nice bike. Maybe he can do it the other way around. Those parts would not look out of place in a hi-end full suspension 29er. He can retain the parts if ever he gets tired of the hardtail and he decides to go full suspension.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerk_circus View Post
what's everyones opinion on low-normal? I think it's the best thing ever, but I dont think it's very popular. I had a full XT setup on the old bike and I couldnt find any faults in it. The transitions between gears (up or down) was always so smooth.
The technology used in components gets trickled down to the lower models over the years. Sometimes i don't feel any difference among the mid to high model ranges. Maybe only in the weight and the bling factor.


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I just upgraded to SRAM from Shimano because I prefer the feel...most of the people I ride with run SRAM as well.....I've personally always liked them over Shimano

I agree 100%. To each his own though. I see people a few posts above who think Sram is trash. If you stick with the X9 and above, you're okay.The plastic shifter of the lower end components easily break. Also Sram seems to be the ones always bringing out new technology. For 2010 they brought out the XX which Shimano is hurrying to come out with their own version of. For 2011, the XX technology already trickled down to the X0, X9 and X7 which is only 2 front chainrings ang 10 speed cog. Much cleaner 20 speed drivetrain but with the same range gearing as the old 27 speed. I think it's time for me to upgrade some parts. Lol!
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Old 05-01-2010, 08:34 AM   #248
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There's nothing wrong with spending that on a quality hardtail 29er. As a beginner, he needs to worry more about getting on the trail and riding than adjusting all his suspension components. Yes, he will get it set up by the LBS, but a FS is more long term maintenance as well.

I think a hardtail 29er is a great solution for a first bike. It gives you the terrain capabilities of a low-travel 26er with a sturdy frame that can be ridden for several seasons. It has a sage selection of components as well.

This is not true, and a very big misconception of 29ers...the bigger wheel has a lot of upsides, but it does NOT replace a rear shock on rough terrain....a 29er hardtail is still a hardtail (I've owned half a dozen of them. I've also ridden a few FS 29ers and 26ers...big difference)

Also, we're not disputing that a 29er hardtail is a great first bike, just not at that price. components don't really matter much at this point
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Old 05-01-2010, 11:33 AM   #249
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i put a solid 3 weeks into finding and researching a bike, my original budget was 1000$ then nothing was available, i said I'd move up to 1500-1700$ nothing available. I didn't really have a choice, i didn't want to lose valuable riding time, our construction project hasn't started so my mornings are free, therefore i have time to ride for the next few months in the mornings. paying 2000$ wasn't a big stretch, if i was a minimum wage earning person, then that's a different story.

Also don't forget bikes from different brands, i.e: specialized have a price discrepancy of up to 600$ for the same bike, except in US much cheaper. So if we apply that logic, this bike would be a 1400$ bike approximately. I really haven't been this excited for a purchase in a long time.

Sometime in the next few days i will go pickup some basic stuff for the bike. multi tool, backpack, pump and some padded shorts. Then when the soreness wears off and I've done a few weeks of road, i will transition to off roading lightly and i cannot wait.
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Old 05-01-2010, 11:47 AM   #250
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^ Don't forget a good quality helmet, gloves and shoes.
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Old 05-01-2010, 11:52 AM   #251
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any advice on shoes?

i have size 13 feet and they get very hot, so i need something breathable with an arch for support (flat feet). Are those bike shoes awkward to walk around in, or do they feel normal?

Gloves, i'm gonna try and get half finger gloves for light off road, but on road i doubt i'll use gloves. what do you think?

Helmet, no idea, just gonna try them on and see

my bike comes with crank brothers eggbeaters.

what type of shoes/cleats fit on those?

and the most noobish question of all.

How do my shifters work? i know you shouldn't use front derailler under load, but rear you can. But what about the 2 levers for each derailler, what and how to use them, where can i read about this?
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Old 05-01-2010, 01:06 PM   #252
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Kinda cloudy in miami today, was hoping for sunshine and do a 40km ride again. Settled for 25 km and picked up some padded shorts ad my LBS

Probably gonna do 40 km tomorrow.

Btw i noticed that when i put some torque (or what you wanna call it) on the pedals it makes a cranking sound from the chain or somewhere in that area, only when i apply more torque than for cruising. is that normal?
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Old 05-01-2010, 01:14 PM   #253
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Kinda cloudy in miami today, was hoping for sunshine and do a 40km ride again. Settled for 25 km and picked up some padded shorts ad my LBS

Probably gonna do 40 km tomorrow.

Btw i noticed that when i put some torque (or what you wanna call it) on the pedals it makes a cranking sound from the chain or somewhere in that area, only when i apply more torque than for cruising. is that normal?
can't help you with the chain noise.

i'm not sure if i asked this before, what kind of cyclometer of you using? and did the padded shorts really help or i might as well change the saddle?
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Old 05-01-2010, 01:16 PM   #254
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can't help you with the chain noise.

i'm not sure if i asked this before, what kind of cyclometer of you using? and did the padded shorts really help or i might as well change the saddle?
cycle computer? I just bought a cheap one at walmart for $10, shows distance, odo and the normal stuff, dont need anything else.

Dunno about the padded shorts, my but still got sore after the ride today, but i know you gotta develop some "hard skin" back there before it really helps anyway.
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Old 05-01-2010, 03:11 PM   #255
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i put a solid 3 weeks into finding and researching a bike, my original budget was 1000$ then nothing was available, i said I'd move up to 1500-1700$ nothing available. I didn't really have a choice, i didn't want to lose valuable riding time, our construction project hasn't started so my mornings are free, therefore i have time to ride for the next few months in the mornings. paying 2000$ wasn't a big stretch, if i was a minimum wage earning person, then that's a different story.

Also don't forget bikes from different brands, i.e: specialized have a price discrepancy of up to 600$ for the same bike, except in US much cheaper. So if we apply that logic, this bike would be a 1400$ bike approximately. I really haven't been this excited for a purchase in a long time.

Sometime in the next few days i will go pickup some basic stuff for the bike. multi tool, backpack, pump and some padded shorts. Then when the soreness wears off and I've done a few weeks of road, i will transition to off roading lightly and i cannot wait.
my post wasn't really directed at you, I understand yours is a special circumstance due to lack of availability....just responding to 330CK and making a general statement on first time bikes in general

Shoes and gloves are going to depend on you, just try out a few and go with whatever feels good. Sidis are a pretty popular brand but they tend to run narrow so make sure you get them in a Wide if you end up going that route. I personally have owned Specialized, Shimano and Bontrager shoes.....all good brands. There are a few more I can't think of now.

Since you have really big feet the store will probably have to order you a pair (unless you get really lucky)

Some of the higher end shoes will have stiffer soles for better energy transfer while pedaling....this will however make them really hard to walk on. It's really up to you...as a new rider, you might opt for the softer pair for now, again comfort and fit is your goal here

All MTB shoes should fit egg beaters, the store will carry the cleats

Helmets are also based on fit, the big difference with the higher end helmets is weight and ventilation. The more you pay, the lighter the helmet and the cooler your head will be.

I personally prefer full finger gloves, better protection for the entire hand in the event of a crash, plus I don't have to worry about sweaty grips

I also recommend getting a Camelback

Just play with the shifters till you figure them out.....really hard to conceptualize without messing with them. Generally one makes it harder to pedal and one makes it softer. click around till you find the right combination

And while you're picking up stuff, don't forget the book I recommended!


great information in the links below

http://adventure.howstuffworks.com/o...ivities/biking

http://adventure.howstuffworks.com/o...ntain-bike.htm
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Old 05-01-2010, 03:21 PM   #256
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Kinda cloudy in miami today, was hoping for sunshine and do a 40km ride again. Settled for 25 km and picked up some padded shorts ad my LBS

Probably gonna do 40 km tomorrow.

Btw i noticed that when i put some torque (or what you wanna call it) on the pedals it makes a cranking sound from the chain or somewhere in that area, only when i apply more torque than for cruising. is that normal?

If it only happens when you apply torque, you might have a loose Bottom bracket....or it may even have dirt in it (ridden in the rain or large body of water lately?)

Creaks are hard to diagnose over the web though, I've had at least 2 different creaks that I thought were bb related, but turned out to be 1) Sand in the seatpost 2) Loose quick release on front tire

Maybe have the bike shop check it out...also make sure you buy some chain lube while you're in the store and have them show you how to lube your chain.

This needs to be done every few rides or so and will extend the life of your chain, plus make your drive train smoother and quieter
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Old 05-01-2010, 03:24 PM   #257
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If it only happens when you apply torque, you might have a loose Bottom bracket....or it may even have dirt in it (ridden in the rain or large body of water lately?)

Creaks are hard to diagnose over the web though, I've had at least 2 different creaks that I thought were bb related, but turned out to be 1) Sand in the seatpost 2) Loose quick release on front tire

Maybe have the bike shop check it out...also make sure you buy some chain lube while you're in the store and have them show you how to lube your chain.

This needs to be done every few rides or so and will extend the life of your chain, plus make your drive train smoother and quieter
Yeah only when i apply torque, havent ridden in dirt or water at all and as you know bike is brand new. ill have them check it out the next time, good tip with the lupe, ive done about 100 miles so far so maybe its time
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Old 05-01-2010, 06:58 PM   #258
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This is not true, and a very big misconception of 29ers...the bigger wheel has a lot of upsides, but it does NOT replace a rear shock on rough terrain....a 29er hardtail is still a hardtail (I've owned half a dozen of them. I've also ridden a few FS 29ers and 26ers...big difference)

Also, we're not disputing that a 29er hardtail is a great first bike, just not at that price. components don't really matter much at this point
No - you misunderstood. I said it gives you similar capabilities to ride various terrain. As in, a 29 inch wheeled bike will roll smoothly over a succession of exposed tree roots. A 26 inch wheeled full-suspension bike will roll similarly over the same grouping of tree roots. I never said it replaces the shock absorption associated with a full suspension bicycle.


I see nothing wrong with that price. The components do matter. That's like saying the gearbox in your first car doesn't matter. He got quality components that will be able to stand up to a lot of abuse.

I think buying the best bike one can afford isn't a bad decision. It's how you go about learning and bettering yourself at the sport that poses bigger possibilities for bad decisions.
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Old 05-01-2010, 07:54 PM   #259
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No - you misunderstood. I said it gives you similar capabilities to ride various terrain. As in, a 29 inch wheeled bike will roll smoothly over a succession of exposed tree roots. A 26 inch wheeled full-suspension bike will roll similarly over the same grouping of tree roots. I never said it replaces the shock absorption associated with a full suspension bicycle.


I see nothing wrong with that price. The components do matter. That's like saying the gearbox in your first car doesn't matter. He got quality components that will be able to stand up to a lot of abuse.

I think buying the best bike one can afford isn't a bad decision. It's how you go about learning and bettering yourself at the sport that poses bigger possibilities for bad decisions.
Going back to your reply to me, you are misunderstanding what I was saying. I didn't say buying the best bike one can afford is bad. I did the same thing. I also didn't say anything bad about the bike he bought- i pointed out multiple times it has great components. My entire point was dropping 2k ON A HARDTAIL is stupid because that price range is so close to the fs bikes, which are 10000x better for mt biking in my opinion. I rode my friend's ht a few times and the feel was night and day compared to my fs.
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Old 05-01-2010, 07:57 PM   #260
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btw- for the sram fans, I have a few derailleur and shifter combos sitting around. I upgraded to shimano xt on both bikes, and the sram stuff saw like a month of use on each bike. I have sram x5 shifters/x7 rear der. and x7 shifters/x9 rear derailleur. Personally, I prefer the index & thumb shifting that shimano gear provides. It always felt more natural to me, and the xt system is super smooth. Come to think of it, the sram stuff was really smooth too, and I can definitely see why many prefer sram.
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