DLS for E46 Coupe: advice needed!

Planning a high quality sound system for my 328Ci. Been thinking about getting a complete DLS system (with BMW Business CD player cause it fits so nicely and I've got it already anyway). Got already A5 amplifier but the others not.. Just a few questions:

1. what size tweeters will fit the E46 Coupe stock places (next to the door handle)?. DLS UR1 has 62mm diameter and UP1C 60mm so I guess they are too large? So do I have to go with the "basic" T20s (50mm diam)?

2. Is the stock mid-bass holder in front door enough deep for Magnesium series MS5 5.25" speakers (mounting depth 58mm)?

3. I will put a MW10 subfoower for the 3rd channel. How/where in the trunk would you install it so that one will be possible to hear the bass good?

4. The max power consumption of the A5 amplifier ís 90A, should I change my battery to sth bigger?

5. The battery is at the back so the power cord to amplifier will be max 1.5m long. Do you think I need a capacitor?

All comments and installation pictures welcome!!

as far as a know you need a capacitor if you have more then 1000 watts. I dont think its a sience but it recommended above and around 1000 watts.

You dont need another battery as long as you play with the motor running.

a capacitor needs to be very close to the battery. Remember that

what, r u kidding me??? capacitor needs to be just before the amplifier, that is the whole point since long power cables have large voltage loss and impedance. But as I hinted, my power cable will be very short so is capacitor really needed?

So.. anyone here really knows some i.c.e. stuff to help me out?

I don't claim to REALLY kow ICE but can answer some of your questions....

1 : The DLS UR1's fit if you utilise the mid range location and not the tweeter. WHen you drop the door card and remove the original driver housing you'll see that the factory fit is a small super tweeter and a cone midrange unit. The mid range is around 60mm diameter and the DLS tweeters you suggest will be easy to drop in there. The UR1's would be a good choice for their smoothness but they tend to perform better when on axis and the door location is not ideal for such a unit. Would suggest either looking to fabricate a kick housing for them or A pillars, though my trial and error with A pillar use in the E46 has not provided any good results.

2 : Yes - you can squeeze a 160mm driver in there up to 65mm depth, though this is very close to touching door surface and doesnt allow for any sound proofing on the back of door card or steel door skin. May be able to get a deeper unit than that though I'd doubt much room to spare.

3: Depends on the enclosure, sealed firing from either the left or the right side across the trunk can work well, though the trunks on these vehicles are well sealed from the interior and venting the sound into the cabin is a chore. Do a search for more info on this topic.

4 : Doubt you'll need a larger battery - if you play mainly with the engine running then it's the alternator which will be supplying most of the current requirement. Again though, unless you're going to sit listening to sine waves at full tilt all day, then you'll not be pulling 90A. Probably nearer to 30A at fairly generous listening levels on normal program material. The MW10 is a 4ohm unit as far as I'm aware and so will not be challenging the amp to supply too much in the way of current.

5 : No. The DLS Ultimate amps have a fairly helathy power supply and as a result wouldn't benefit from an external cap - imo unless a multi amp design were being used then you'll be fine off the factory battery and alt. Then again, caps are very subjective anyway but I wouldn't recommend considering one unless you can identify a requirement after installation and set up.

Cheers for the comprehensive reply - a lot of help =)