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Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 08-17-2010, 02:38 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackcat559 View Post
You fellas racing the M54; did you use the M54 Motorsport oil pump?
mrshelley is the only one running it I know of; it has served him well on several cars
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Old 05-23-2011, 03:56 PM   #82
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After the first oil pump nut failure on my M54 (described above) we had the nut welded on, replaced the rod bearings, new oil pump, etc. So then 3 autocross events later the oil pump driveshaft sheered in half. Lovely. My wife made an entire lap at Texas Motor Speedway (road course) with zero oil pressure, so you can imagine how fubar the engine is.



Took the car to STETT again and he pulled the bottom end apart for a look and maybe just "more bearings" again - it wasn't good. Rod bearings spun, oil pan full of copper, everything is fried. Please, learn from my stupid mistakes (two dead M54 engines) and never rev your M54 above 6000 RPMs with the stock balancer and unsecured oil pump nut! Listen to the experts on this forum - they were right.

I let the blue car sit for 6 months, ignoring it completely, even thought about putting an LS1 in it. Then we found another 2001 330Ci chassis with no drivetrain to use for an LS1 swap mule. It needs a little work but it should make for a clean, quick, affordable and reliable track car when we're done.



So then the blue 330 was sitting there and I had to think - do we "fix it to keep" or "sell it?". I thought about this at length, with lots of input from fellow racers, and we've decided to keep the blue 2001 E46 330Ci and run it in NASA TTD (its classed/prepped well for this class and regularly set track records there). My wife can use it to run TT in, instead of running our 2011 Mustang GT in TTB (which we're going to use in autocrossing only, to focus on one set of class rules instead of two).



We pulled all the decals off the blue car, put the radio and stock steering wheel back in (makes for a nicer street car), and are prepping it for a replacement motor, then bodywork and finally a repaint in the original blue. It can still be street legal and be quick enough for TTD, as the car needed a little more weight for the class. We'll probably run it on 255/35/18 Hoosier R6s, or 285s if we want a little more stick (it has 285s now). This time we're adding the VAC oil pump drive kit and a better balancer. The motor is supposed to arrive today.

You guys' advice here + our lousy experiences with this motor and its very obvious limitations (balancer, oil pump nut/drive, high RPM harmonics) have taught me some lessons, and the RPM limit will be dropped back down to 6000 rpm when its up and running again. So... this ATI balancer looks nice, what are the results after this Group Buy's round of installs?

Thanks,
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Old 05-23-2011, 04:01 PM   #83
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We're still waiting for them... They dampers are done, but we're waiting on the install tools to be machined. I'll come by with it when it's done. You can take my heavy girl around the block and see what you think.

What else can you do to her and keep her in her class?
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Old 05-23-2011, 04:29 PM   #84
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Terry, if you keep the rev limit low (say around 6k or so) the Vac pump shaft might keep you in business but it's been known to fail for others (see pei330ci's thread here). For my own car (which I've got too much invested in not to splurge on a proper oil pump fix), I've spoken with Greg about getting the 4 bolt pump documented in the thread I just linked.

So, looks like you picked up AdamBath's old coupe from Stett for the LS1 conversion? Yeah, it will need just a little bit of work. What are your plans for the rear subframe area? Will this car be fully caged or will you at least be installing some form of rear subframe mount reinforcement after you repair the existing damage? With LS1 torque levels, you're going to have to do something. I've repaired mine twice now and I've only got a twin screwed M54. First repair involved welding a small crack that I caught early and then adding the Turner reinforcement kit. A little over a year later, I had nearly ripped out the entire left rear Turner plate. Had Stett repair and heavily reinforce the rear by welding in some thick sheet metal all the way across the rear of the car so as to tie the left and right rear mounting points together and distribute the subframe loads across the entire width of the car (unlike the localized reinforcement of the Turner kit). Maybe this will hold long enough for me to start having engine problems....
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Old 05-23-2011, 06:26 PM   #85
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Thanks for the experiences/tips on the oil pump drive. We're going to keep the revs low for a good long while - this 211 whp lump doesn't make any power above 6000 anyway. We were just using the higher revs to avoid 2nd to 3rd gear shifts on some autocross courses, but we see where that got us. That's what fooled me - 7500 rpm redline has worked for 6+ years with the stock balancer on the S52 motor in our E36 M3, but its a lot more tolerant of revs than the M54 I guess.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TxZHP04 View Post
So, looks like you picked up AdamBath's old coupe from Stett for the LS1 conversion? Yeah, it will need just a little bit of work. What are your plans for the rear subframe area? Will this car be fully caged or will you at least be installing some form of rear subframe mount reinforcement after you repair the existing damage?
Yea, that's the car. It needs some work, that's for sure. The rear subframe has ripped completely away from the trunk floor in one corner, but we knew that before I bought it, and its not something I'm terribly afraid of.



When I bought the car it was in pieces (almost completely disassembled) and extremely dirty (it had been sitting for quite a while outside) but we've cleaned it up and put the interior/dash back together, and even rounded up a few missing pieces. Its almost all there now. It is going to need a lot of repair work and reinforcement out back; the entire trunk floor replacement kit (BMW sells it for this reason) + some reinforcement plates + potentially a "small rear cage section" tying into the pick-up points, like these two E36 cages built by Dallas Performance:



I am trying to avoid a full perimeter cage on this car, if it is in fact going to see even light street duty. I've driven fully caged cars a handful of times on the street and have the lumps on my noggin to show for it. Not a safe proposition without a helmet. So we might just do an elaborate 4-point with subframe tie-ins. Still up in the air.

Right now this white car is mostly just being used as "a rolling mock-up car" to help us develop the LSx V8 + T56 swap kit. After I have the mounts + crossmember + headers designed we'll go back and fix the rear subframe and trunk issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TxZHP04 View Post
With LS1 torque levels, you're going to have to do something. I've repaired mine twice now and I've only got a twin screwed M54. First repair involved welding a small crack that I caught early and then adding the Turner reinforcement kit. A little over a year later, I had nearly ripped out the entire left rear Turner plate. Had Stett repair and heavily reinforce the rear by welding in some thick sheet metal all the way across the rear of the car so as to tie the left and right rear mounting points together and distribute the subframe loads across the entire width of the car (unlike the localized reinforcement of the Turner kit). Maybe this will hold long enough for me to start having engine problems....
Agreed. It needs some reinforcement. We've been very lucky on the blue car, and its something we keep an eye on carefully. We had the entire subframe out to add poly chassis mounts and it was virgin - hadn't cracked open yet.



Due to the input from many racers about the chances of rear diff mount/trunk floor failure on the E30 chassis, we preemptively reinforced our E30 LS1 chassis back there. Cut out most of the trunk floor/spare tire well and welded in a hefty 2" x 2" steel tube between the frame rails (with spreader plates), tied it into the dual-eared E36 diff mount, then triangulated them. I don't think it needs to be this drastic on the E46, but we'll do something "more than necessary" to keep this "glass-like" rear trunk structure tied together.

Sorry to crap-up this thread with so many off-topic details, guys. I've got my E46 build thread on 4 forums already: SCCAForums, BimmerForums, Corner-Carvers, and on Vorshlag. Feel free to pop into any of those and make more suggestions. I do appreciate all of the advice, even if I didn't listen to some of it when it was given.

Cheers,
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Old 05-23-2011, 07:36 PM   #86
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Cool.
Fwiw I am loving the ATI Damper. The revs are liquid right up to 6800.
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Old 05-23-2011, 08:00 PM   #87
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Yeah, yeah... rub it in. Still waiting.

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Cool.
Fwiw I am loving the ATI Damper. The revs are liquid right up to 6800.
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Old 05-23-2011, 11:08 PM   #88
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Yeah, yeah... rub it in. Still waiting.
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Old 05-26-2011, 01:09 AM   #89
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Hey everybody, it's been a while since I have posted but I wanted to add a bit to this. I had been chasing a vibration that would only occur upon shifting near 6k, this vibration would only occur as the motor was unloaded and for split second. This was actually my main reason for investing in this ATI damper. So imagine my frustration when it was still there after installing the damper, now I will agree with McSpeed that the engine is sooooo much smoother at high RPMs.

I must add that I installed Schrick camshafts a while before I noticed this buzzing vibration I mentioned above. I had also done the Beisen Vanos rebuild with the camshaft upgrade. So in search of this vibration I had noticed that the newer BMW and MINI engines were coming with these alternator clutch pulleys to let the alternator unload during sudden decel. So I actually found a pulley that fit my alternator (there is a thread somewhere around), did that fix the vibration....NO!

Well, so I have this damn buzzing feeling when I shift at redline....still. As time goes on I begin to hear a slight Vanos gear rattle, I call the Beisen dude (who is very smart and a great guy to talk to.) and he tells me of added stress the lumpy Schrick cams have on the relative lightweight M54 Vanos system. So I decide to replace the helix gears and helix cups of the vanos, and upon tearing the motor apart I find the timing chain tensioner is smashed on the nose of it. This is where is gets good. I replaced the tensioner with a factory new tensioner piston when I replaced the camshafts, which at this point had only been about 2500 miles and it already looked like hell.

I know I need to take some pictures and do a write up on it, but I found that a S52 and S54 timing chain tensioner are the same part and that it fits ours M54 engines. When you look a M54 and a S54 tensioner side by side it's hard to see how the M54 one works in the first damn place. It has an oil feed hole smaller then the oil discharge hole the lubes the timing chain rail. How do you build up any pressure when your losing it faster then you can fill it, so it was just rattling back in forth as the cam lobes were just slapping the chain around. The S54 tensioner still has and oiling hole for the timing chain rail, but it is smaller then the piston fill hole. I checked the installed depth of an S54 against my engine and they were within .010" of each other. If you have Schrick cams I HIGHLY recommend installing the S54 timing chain tensoiner! After installing that tensioner I can no honestly say this thing is smooth all the way up to redline.

Some bits of knowledge are good to learn, but man did I learn that one the hard way!
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Old 05-26-2011, 01:32 AM   #90
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Originally Posted by F1004fun View Post
Hey everybody, it's been a while since I have posted but I wanted to add a bit to this. I had been chasing a vibration that would only occur upon shifting near 6k, this vibration would only occur as the motor was unloaded and for split second. This was actually my main reason for investing in this ATI damper. So imagine my frustration when it was still there after installing the damper, now I will agree with McSpeed that the engine is sooooo much smoother at high RPMs.

I must add that I installed Schrick camshafts a while before I noticed this buzzing vibration I mentioned above. I had also done the Beisen Vanos rebuild with the camshaft upgrade. So in search of this vibration I had noticed that the newer BMW and MINI engines were coming with these alternator clutch pulleys to let the alternator unload during sudden decel. So I actually found a pulley that fit my alternator (there is a thread somewhere around), did that fix the vibration....NO!

Well, so I have this damn buzzing feeling when I shift at redline....still. As time goes on I begin to hear a slight Vanos gear rattle, I call the Beisen dude (who is very smart and a great guy to talk to.) and he tells me of added stress the lumpy Schrick cams have on the relative lightweight M54 Vanos system. So I decide to replace the helix gears and helix cups of the vanos, and upon tearing the motor apart I find the timing chain tensioner is smashed on the nose of it. This is where is gets good. I replaced the tensioner with a factory new tensioner piston when I replaced the camshafts, which at this point had only been about 2500 miles and it already looked like hell.

I know I need to take some pictures and do a write up on it, but I found that a S52 and S54 timing chain tensioner are the same part and that it fits ours M54 engines. When you look a M54 and a S54 tensioner side by side it's hard to see how the M54 one works in the first damn place. It has an oil feed hole smaller then the oil discharge hole the lubes the timing chain rail. How do you build up any pressure when your losing it faster then you can fill it, so it was just rattling back in forth as the cam lobes were just slapping the chain around. The S54 tensioner still has and oiling hole for the timing chain rail, but it is smaller then the piston fill hole. I checked the installed depth of an S54 against my engine and they were within .010" of each other. If you have Schrick cams I HIGHLY recommend installing the S54 timing chain tensoiner! After installing that tensioner I can no honestly say this thing is smooth all the way up to redline.

Some bits of knowledge are good to learn, but man did I learn that one the hard way!
Great Post !

My motor is apart, I have Schrick cams, please post up part numbers and or a link.


Thanks, Rob
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Old 05-26-2011, 12:50 PM   #91
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Interesting info on the tensioner. Assuming we're talking about the lower tensioner?

So your noise was more of a buzzing type vibration? I get more of a slapping type noise under similar conditions (car's been doing this for almost 100k miles now), wonder if it might be the same cause. I've always suspected that it was something associated with the dual mass flywheel. I'll be swapping my exhaust cam soon, might have to give the S54 tensioner a try.
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Old 05-26-2011, 01:07 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by F1004fun View Post
Hey everybody, it's been a while since I have posted but I wanted to add a bit to this. I had been chasing a vibration that would only occur upon shifting near 6k, this vibration would only occur as the motor was unloaded and for split second. This was actually my main reason for investing in this ATI damper. So imagine my frustration when it was still there after installing the damper, now I will agree with McSpeed that the engine is sooooo much smoother at high RPMs.

I must add that I installed Schrick camshafts a while before I noticed this buzzing vibration I mentioned above. I had also done the Beisen Vanos rebuild with the camshaft upgrade. So in search of this vibration I had noticed that the newer BMW and MINI engines were coming with these alternator clutch pulleys to let the alternator unload during sudden decel. So I actually found a pulley that fit my alternator (there is a thread somewhere around), did that fix the vibration....NO!

Well, so I have this damn buzzing feeling when I shift at redline....still. As time goes on I begin to hear a slight Vanos gear rattle, I call the Beisen dude (who is very smart and a great guy to talk to.) and he tells me of added stress the lumpy Schrick cams have on the relative lightweight M54 Vanos system. So I decide to replace the helix gears and helix cups of the vanos, and upon tearing the motor apart I find the timing chain tensioner is smashed on the nose of it. This is where is gets good. I replaced the tensioner with a factory new tensioner piston when I replaced the camshafts, which at this point had only been about 2500 miles and it already looked like hell.

I know I need to take some pictures and do a write up on it, but I found that a S52 and S54 timing chain tensioner are the same part and that it fits ours M54 engines. When you look a M54 and a S54 tensioner side by side it's hard to see how the M54 one works in the first damn place. It has an oil feed hole smaller then the oil discharge hole the lubes the timing chain rail. How do you build up any pressure when your losing it faster then you can fill it, so it was just rattling back in forth as the cam lobes were just slapping the chain around. The S54 tensioner still has and oiling hole for the timing chain rail, but it is smaller then the piston fill hole. I checked the installed depth of an S54 against my engine and they were within .010" of each other. If you have Schrick cams I HIGHLY recommend installing the S54 timing chain tensoiner! After installing that tensioner I can no honestly say this thing is smooth all the way up to redline.

Some bits of knowledge are good to learn, but man did I learn that one the hard way!
DIY with some pictures would be great appreciated!
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Old 05-26-2011, 01:44 PM   #93
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He did a DIY for the alternator pulley. Just search for threads started by him. Pretty interesting.

Oh, and I'll definitely put this to use one of these days. Thanks for the good info.
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Old 05-26-2011, 03:15 PM   #94
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Thanks for the info F1004fun very helpful again, - what profile Schricks do you have?

I installed my 248/256 about 5k miles ago and have not noticed any additional vibrations at 6k but will add the tensioner as a preventative measure.

The only issue I had was the Vanos rattle appearing after a short while but the anti rattle kit took care of that.
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Old 06-02-2011, 10:18 PM   #95
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The Schrick cams I have installed are the 264 degree 10.5mm lift intake and 248 degree 10mm lift exhaust. I don't plan on supercharging my engine but I would like to have VAC port mine, I like N/A engines.
The part number for the S52/S54 tensioner is #11317838675. I apologize for not doing write ups, it's just when I actually get time to work on my car I don't take any pictures
I snagged a pic off the web of a S54 tensioner and I took a couple pics of my M54 tensioner. It's hard to see in the pictures but the two are night and day in actual function. The S54 tensioner has a check ball in the feed port to help dampen fluctuations and it's hard to compress by hand, it looks very complicated and very German. All of these technical features means it must be better then a fricken aluminum cup and a wobbly spring that make up the M54 tensioner. Right?
The pic on the left is literally all that make up the M54 tensioner, the next over is a side shot with the oil feed port if you can find it. Next over is the nose the rides on the chain rail with it's discharge port, followed last by the S54 tensioner.
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Old 06-03-2011, 02:11 AM   #96
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Originally Posted by F1004fun View Post
The Schrick cams I have installed are the 264 degree 10.5mm lift intake and 248 degree 10mm lift exhaust. I don't plan on supercharging my engine but I would like to have VAC port mine, I like N/A engines.
The part number for the S52/S54 tensioner is #11317838675. I apologize for not doing write ups, it's just when I actually get time to work on my car I don't take any pictures
I snagged a pic off the web of a S54 tensioner and I took a couple pics of my M54 tensioner. It's hard to see in the pictures but the two are night and day in actual function. The S54 tensioner has a check ball in the feed port to help dampen fluctuations and it's hard to compress by hand, it looks very complicated and very German. All of these technical features means it must be better then a fricken aluminum cup and a wobbly spring that make up the M54 tensioner. Right?
The pic on the left is literally all that make up the M54 tensioner, the next over is a side shot with the oil feed port if you can find it. Next over is the nose the rides on the chain rail with it's discharge port, followed last by the S54 tensioner.
Great info, thanks
Another thing to upgrade!
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Old 06-05-2011, 06:51 PM   #97
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Nice Read...Man where have I been....
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Old 06-06-2011, 01:07 AM   #98
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So how does one get ahold of an ATI Damper? I checked their website, but with no luck.
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Old 06-06-2011, 06:22 AM   #99
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Old 06-13-2011, 01:19 PM   #100
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Everything still running smooth with the S54 tensioner?

EDIT: any chance of something like this happening? http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...90&postcount=6
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