M54B30 harmonics and ATI dampers

Originally Posted by Jackcat559

so that looks exactly like the stock tensioner in an M54. How does it differ from the M version again?

The diameter of the inlet and outlet oil holes is different.

Originally Posted by PEI330Ci

I've followed your lead, and ordered the S54 tensioner. When it arrived, I found that the spring loaded cartridge was sticking when you tried to compress it by hand. It was like there was something not machined properly, and something was binding on something internally. I ended up sending it back to BMW for a replacement....which I'm still waiting on.

Just a heads up: If you do order this part, check that it compresses smoothly by hand.

BTW....it cost me $300 in Canada for this thing.

Out of engine operation does not equal installed operation. In my E39 my tensioner filled with oil to keep it sliding smoothly. It should be the same for these.

I just found out that the E83 X3 3.0i has the same M54B30 engine but that it uses a different HB.

X3 - 11237513862




330 - 11231438995


Different part numbers. I'm not sure if they have differences. Any thoughts?

Doesn't appear to be unique to the X3. Courtesy realoem:

Part Cross-reference
RealOEM.com Home
Part 11237513862 (Vibration damper) was found on the following vehicles:

E39: Details on E39
E39 525i Touring
E39 525i Sedan
E39 530i Sedan


E46: Details on E46
E46 320i Sedan
E46 325Ci Coupe
E46 325Ci Convertible
E46 325i Sedan
E46 325i Touring
E46 325xi Touring
E46 325xi Sedan
E46 330Ci Convertible
E46 330Ci Coupe
E46 330i Sedan
E46 330xi Sedan


E53: Details on E53
E53 X5 3.0i SUV


E60: Details on E60
E60 525i Sedan
E60 530i Sedan


E83: Details on E83
E83 X3 2.5i SUV
E83 X3 3.0i SUV


E85: Details on E85
E85 Z4 2.5i Roadster
E85 Z4 3.0i Roadster

So is the installation of the S54 tensioner as simple as torquing it to spec? Do the oil holes need to be aligned any particular way? Seems like the inner tensioner piece may spin a bit within the cylinder as it's torqued down so I'm assuming there are no alignment concerns.

BTW, the tensioner I received also has the same sticky point when compressed about 25-30%. I'm starting to think that it's simply an inherent part of the design.

So, with an ATI Damper installed what are the chances of the oil pump nut coming off or the oil pump shearing in relation to the stock damper?

Originally Posted by MasterC17

So, with an ATI Damper installed what are the chances of the oil pump nut coming off or the oil pump shearing in relation to the stock damper?

Perhaps less than stock? At this point you're not likely to get anything more than conjecture as there simply isn't any long term data to prove anything one way or the other. I think that most who have ever run an ATI damper on an M54 have posted in this forum and I don't think any of those same people have ever had any issues with their oil pump with the stock damper (except Adam whose current build is still in progress I believe).

Originally Posted by TxZHP04

Perhaps less than stock? At this point you're not likely to get anything more than conjecture as there simply isn't any long term data to prove anything one way or the other. I think that most who have ever run an ATI damper on an M54 have posted in this forum and I don't think any of those same people have ever had any issues with their oil pump with the stock damper (except Adam whose current build is still in progress I believe).

And although Adam had issues with the Vac pump on his old car with the bigger ATI damper, the redline was like 8000+ IIRC, which I'm pretty sure is a whole different ballgame. And he was running a very light flywheel which doesn't help....

Hmm, thanks for the responses. The question now is do I run the car until the opn comes off or the oil pump shears, or do I invest in the ATI Damper. I always make sure I shift ~6000 so who knows if it will even come off.

If you're shifting at 6k, you're not very likely to ever have oil pump issues. If you're spending significant time hanging out above 6k rpm or making even brief bursts above 7k then you might worry.

Now, before the question gets lost... can someone comment on my tensioner install question above?

Originally Posted by MasterC17

So, with an ATI Damper installed what are the chances of the oil pump nut coming off or the oil pump shearing in relation to the stock damper?

As one of the G.B. "10" & talks with ATI, I'd say extremely low.

Originally Posted by MasterC17

Hmm, thanks for the responses. The question now is do I run the car until the opn comes off or the oil pump shears, or do I invest in the ATI Damper. I always make sure I shift ~6000 so who knows if it will even come off.

You don't want to "run the car until the opn comes off", the costs for this are just to high. Invest in the ATI damper, & while your under there go the extra big step & wire tie the OPN on. This combo will probably let your motor go the distance.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by Rob43

As one of the G.B. "10" & talks with ATI, I'd say extremely low.



You don't want to "run the car until the opn comes off", the costs for this are just to high. Invest in the ATI damper, & while your under there go the extra big step & wire tie the OPN on. This combo will probably let your motor go the distance.

Good luck.

I figure with an ATI Damper, VAC Baffle, and VAC Oil Pump Update along with the oil cooler I'm building I should be all set

Yes, that sounds good. When installing the VAC OP kit, I'd still drill & wire tie the OPN.

Then if it were me, I'd buy a Shark Injector & enjoy 7000 RPM as often as you like. I'm serious.

Originally Posted by TxZHP04

So is the installation of the S54 tensioner as simple as torquing it to spec? Do the oil holes need to be aligned any particular way? Seems like the inner tensioner piece may spin a bit within the cylinder as it's torqued down so I'm assuming there are no alignment concerns.

BTW, the tensioner I received also has the same sticky point when compressed about 25-30%. I'm starting to think that it's simply an inherent part of the design.

Yep, it's as easy as that. The only tensioners that need to be aligned are the S14 and S50 ones. You have to compress it a little by hand to get the first couple of threads to catch, then torque it.

Originally Posted by F1004fun

Yep, it's as easy as that. The only tensioners that need to be aligned are the S14 and S50 ones. You have to compress it a little by hand to get the first couple of threads to catch, then torque it.

Thanks for the confirmation!

Got the S54 tensioner in this morning. Working around the A/C lines proved to be a bit tricky but I finally managed. Also, it does take a bit of force to compress the tensioner enough to get the threads to catch and this made me very paranoid about the possibility of cross-threading it. I didn't have any problems but I figured it was worth a reminder to folks to be careful. Once the threads catch, you should be able to easily thread the cylinder in the rest of the way by hand even though it's under tension. If it doesn't thread in freely, back it out and start over.

The engine made nothing but good noises this morning on a cold start after the tensioner install. I didn't notice any of the timing chain "ringing" that I've noticed since the exhaust cam upgrade. Haven't been out driving yet though so remains to be seen if I notice and other difference.

Originally Posted by TxZHP04

Got the S54 tensioner in this morning. Working around the A/C lines proved to be a bit tricky but I finally managed. Also, it does take a bit of force to compress the tensioner enough to get the threads to catch and this made me very paranoid about the possibility of cross-threading it. I didn't have any problems but I figured it was worth a reminder to folks to be careful. Once the threads catch, you should be able to easily thread the cylinder in the rest of the way by hand even though it's under tension. If it doesn't thread in freely, back it out and start over.

The engine made nothing but good noises this morning on a cold start after the tensioner install. I didn't notice any of the timing chain "ringing" that I've noticed since the exhaust cam upgrade. Haven't been out driving yet though so remains to be seen if I notice and other difference.

Very good, very cool.

Thanks for the review, Darren! It's definitely on my short list.

Originally Posted by TxZHP04

Got the S54 tensioner in this morning. Working around the A/C lines proved to be a bit tricky but I finally managed. Also, it does take a bit of force to compress the tensioner enough to get the threads to catch and this made me very paranoid about the possibility of cross-threading it. I didn't have any problems but I figured it was worth a reminder to folks to be careful. Once the threads catch, you should be able to easily thread the cylinder in the rest of the way by hand even though it's under tension. If it doesn't thread in freely, back it out and start over.

The engine made nothing but good noises this morning on a cold start after the tensioner install. I didn't notice any of the timing chain "ringing" that I've noticed since the exhaust cam upgrade. Haven't been out driving yet though so remains to be seen if I notice and other difference.

ordering two of the chain tensioners - another $300 down....

See, that's what you get for having 2

Originally Posted by 330i ZHP

ordering two of the chain tensioners - another $300 down....