* What did you do to/for your E46 today? *

Originally Posted by tock172

Have you compared these results with a multi-meter?

I did back when I was hardwiring it. I don't remember the outcome. I don't think it was too far off though. Maybe I'll check this weekend if I get bored enough.

i'm selling mine
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...1#post14886414

after 2 weeks my Beisan VANOS seals arrived



called a reputable Indie shop to get my VCG's done again and the VANOS seals

hoping to get in next Friday

Changed out my dead oil soaked DISA valve, upgraded my 2.3LTR fuel injectors to 3.0LTR fuel injectors and got a DYNO tune to make the 3.0LTR crankshaft, Shark CAI, Shark Injector and SuperSprint run in complete harmony for my Sally-Sue. I'm finally almost done!

Well this was yesterday, bought three power steering hoses to go along with my rebuilt steering rack. Bought a new bumper shock for the front right. An oil filter and OFGH. Now gotta wait for these things to ship and install them.

Originally Posted by Zchild

Changed out my dead oil soaked DISA valve, upgraded my 2.3LTR fuel injectors to 3.0LTR fuel injectors and got a DYNO tune to make the 3.0LTR crankshaft, Shark CAI, Shark Injector and SuperSprint run in complete harmony for my Sally-Sue. I'm finally almost done!

Did you upgrade the rail?

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Euro tray with aux cable hidden inside. I love the clean look.

next mod is this routed behind the euro tray.
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330...pter/ES194567/

Got an estimate for some work I really don't want to do myself, but I think I will end up doing it now given what they would charge me. It kind of feels nice knowing how much money I can save myself after asking for these prices.

THE TRANS SERVICE WOULD RUN $746.48 PLUS TAX AND SHOP FEE
THE TIE ROD ASSEMBLYS WOULD RUN $524.36 PLUS TAX AND SHOP FEE
4 WHEEL ALIGHNMENT $99.98 PLUS TAX AND SHOP FEE
THE DRIVE SHAFT FLEX DISC WOULD RUN $436.25 PLUS TAX AND SHOP FEE
THE P/S FLUSH WOULD RUN $183.73 PLUS TAX AND SHOP FEE
IF YOU DID ALL THE REPAIRS THE TOTAL WITH TAX AND SHOP FEE WOULD RUN $2,218.35

I'd spend about $500 on parts if I DIY. I already have the tierods and boots. I need a new jack since my current one just isn't cutting it, but I will save plenty to justify a new one. Anyone have recommendations on a jack that is relatively portable for DIY? I would love that Harbor freight 2 ton low profile, but it weighs over 90 lbs.

I'm considering this: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-68051.html with an ECS jack pad adapter

I would definitely stay away from hb jacks. If you're saving so much money why not get a quality jack and no put yourself in danger.

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Originally Posted by darksideracer69

I would definitely stay away from hb jacks. If you're saving so much money why not get a quality jack and no put yourself in danger.

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How would a jack put me in danger? You don't get under a car with any jack. Worst thing that happens is a oil leak that drops the car back down while I'm lifting it. As long as it works for my occassional use it is fine.

Originally Posted by WDE46

How would a jack put me in danger? You don't get under a car with any jack. Worst thing that happens is a oil leak that drops the car back down while I'm lifting it. As long as it works for my occassional use it is fine.

I agree, my jack has a slow leak, but it still allows me time to get jack stands under my car. NO ONE should get under a car that's only supported by a floor jack

Anyway, I already paid for it and got some 3 ton jack stands. Now I have 4 so I can do my transmission service in the future. I think this is what I was missing. I always had to perform tricks with my other cheap ass jack to get it to work right. With the ECS pad and this jack I think I can get the car up on stands in less than 10 minutes.

First i hugged my bby lmao.....Cold started(Love that sound of exhaust) and installed my clear smoked turning signals

I replaced my cabin air filter and pulled out an old, oily K & N intake air filter. Both new filters are Mann OEM. Yay!

Originally Posted by WDE46

How would a jack put me in danger? You don't get under a car with any jack. Worst thing that happens is a oil leak that drops the car back down while I'm lifting it. As long as it works for my occassional use it is fine.

I've used a HB jack. They're fine going up, it's the coming down that's an issue. They don't seem to have any control with regards to how quickly they lower.

I have the Arcan 3.5 ton low profile jack. Not exactly portable though. It weighs over 100 lbs I love it and its a great jack for the money

Installed clear corners and new lenses on the trunk.

Installed Koni STR on the rear. Fronts tomorrow (tweaked my knee somehow this morning).

Originally Posted by Teraxx

I replaced my cabin air filter and pulled out an old, oily K & N intake air filter. Both new filters are Mann OEM. Yay!

Do you have the cone or stock filter housing?

Originally Posted by briangl92

I've used a HB jack. They're fine going up, it's the coming down that's an issue. They don't seem to have any control with regards to how quickly they lower.

I have the Arcan 3.5 ton low profile jack. Not exactly portable though. It weighs over 100 lbs I love it and its a great jack for the money

I've got a good touch with tools so I think I'll manage. Anyway, I would buy a more expensive and higher quality low profile jack, but I can't transport that in my car to where I work on it. I need something I can fit in the trunk with my tools, jack stands, and whatever parts I'm changing that day. I would like to move into a small house with a garage in the future. Then I could have a nice heavy low profile jack. The 2 ton aluminum one from HF is the best thing I could find that is still portable and won't break my bank. I'm gonna review it for the forums after I use it.

Just bought the piezo buzzer 108Db 10.99$ at my local RadioShack to do alarm mod tonight and code it Monday with jake and have working alarm minus tilt or motion sensor