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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 03-14-2013, 08:33 PM   #17021
Mango
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Originally Posted by ///MPR77 View Post
Nice, I have a source (part-out) for a replacement cartridge with the glass for $60. (88k miles)

Going to replace mine next week.
Let me know if you need help.
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:42 PM   #17022
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Vanos seals... Attachment 495605
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Old 03-14-2013, 10:41 PM   #17023
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\


holy creativity batman
thats an awesome idea
i always just used a pry bar and my body weight
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:29 PM   #17024
trentcdrums
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holy creativity batman
thats an awesome idea
i always just used a pry bar and my body weight
I Saud the same thing when I saw a DIY on YouTube!!
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:49 PM   #17025
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Originally Posted by Super Sheep View Post





Installed Bilstein struts and shocks and H&R Springs
Very nice. we have the same setup. can you post a pic of your car as it sits now?

BTW, not sure i'd trust that method of separating the trail arm. you're loading the delicate sheet metal in a very small area and you risk popping spot welds. i'm probably over thinking it but given the known problems with that part of the car, i'd be very careful
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:59 PM   #17026
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I tried to get my e46 into the garage to install my dssr. Well I had to move my e30 out. Got it stuck in my yard. It was super muddy and I didn't expect it. Only way to get it out now is to tow it. And that can't happen till it gets dry. UGHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
The body is almost laying on the ground because of how deep it dug in. I didn't even spin the tires barely. It just sunk. Front tire too
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:10 AM   #17027
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2x4 and a little know how will get that out. Easy stuff
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:13 AM   #17028
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2x4 and a little know how will get that out. Easy stuff
Tried it. Whatever I use just sinks into the mud. I'm very good with the reverse to 1st to reverse rocking as well as feathering the clutch. It won't come out.

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Old 03-15-2013, 02:50 AM   #17029
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did the retrofit obc stalk for my 323i, finished wiring up my sub box as well, somewhat painted as well. looks like arse but better than primer
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Old 03-15-2013, 04:07 AM   #17030
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Originally Posted by Mango View Post
Very nice. we have the same setup. can you post a pic of your car as it sits now?

BTW, not sure i'd trust that method of separating the trail arm. you're loading the delicate sheet metal in a very small area and you risk popping spot welds. i'm probably over thinking it but given the known problems with that part of the car, i'd be very careful


Yeah, I didn't think about that, I check that area today and no dent or any visible issue. As far as I can tell, what is happening as you pry one side open, is the other side is getting compressed as the rear sway bar is still attached so you got to make sure your car is jacked up high enough so there is room for it to move freely. I would be more concerned with damaging the sway bar or axle as I do it see hitting against the axle if you pry too far. Of course you should install the spring asap and not procrastate and leave it pryed open like that for a extended period of time.

Anyways the springs are finally settling to the proper height. I do notice some clanking if I go over a bump too hard. The sound is diminishing as the spring is settling in. So maybe that's normal? Or do I need to retorque it again? Can anyone answer this?

Also here are some pics.

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Old 03-15-2013, 07:44 AM   #17031
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I installed angel eyes and xenon lights on my E46 (M43B19), the car shows that drivers site doesnot light untill i turn the angel ligts on. is this normal and what should I do? I am a new one here and sorry for posting in this topic, I couldn't find the right topic
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:51 AM   #17032
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Washed it and got all that salt off!
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Old 03-15-2013, 09:13 AM   #17033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mango View Post
It's easy. i'll quickly summarize it for you:

Clay car. Use soapy water w/ bucket (dish washing soap is fine as we want to strip any waxes on the surface from previous wax jobs) Move clay back and forth over paint until it feels smooth. Do one full panel at a time. Fold and stretch clay repeatedly to get fresh clay on the surface. Keep surface you are claying nice and slippery with soapy water.

Rinse car. dry.

Then apply two thin even coats of wax. let dry between coats.

you are done.


if you have bad swirls, etc., you'll need corrective action before you apply the wax. in other words, you'll need to polish by machine or by hand.
How do I get out dog scratches like this?
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Old 03-15-2013, 09:40 AM   #17034
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Everything is almost fixed and upgrading appearance!

'04 330xi 131k TiAg

From ECSTuning I just ordered my steering shaft double U-joint (steering wheel gets hung up when turning), front wheel bearing (only $65 of Genuine BMW!!), Pure yellow fog light bulbs.

From Khoalty I also ordered the matte black kidney grilles and their 6000k D2S bulbs.

Needless to say, I'm pretty excited to get it all in the mail and on my ride. Also going to fix my broken F-connector on my intake lines and replace my lower intake boot either tonight or tomorrow morning.

Also going to be blacking out window trim and wheels, and hopefully doing a black roof (probably Shadowline vinyl) in the near future.
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Old 03-15-2013, 09:44 AM   #17035
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Originally Posted by peytonracer4 View Post
I tried to get my e46 into the garage to install my dssr. Well I had to move my e30 out. Got it stuck in my yard. It was super muddy and I didn't expect it. Only way to get it out now is to tow it. And that can't happen till it gets dry. UGHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
The body is almost laying on the ground because of how deep it dug in. I didn't even spin the tires barely. It just sunk. Front tire too
You need gravel or some friends who aren't weak.
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Old 03-15-2013, 09:46 AM   #17036
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How do I get out dog scratches like this?
You need to use a yellow buffing pad and some cutting compount and an orbital buffer. You can fix that for $300 in tools assuming it's not below the clear coat.

Check out detailedimage.com

That's where I bought all my equipment and learned how to correct my paint. You can get out some pretty serious scratches with the right combo of pads and cutting compounds. I would actually email the owner of that site with that picture and ask him what he recommends. He'll help you out. Return the favor by buying from him.

Last edited by WDE46; 03-15-2013 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:42 AM   #17037
Mango
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Originally Posted by Super Sheep View Post
Yeah, I didn't think about that, I check that area today and no dent or any visible issue. As far as I can tell, what is happening as you pry one side open, is the other side is getting compressed as the rear sway bar is still attached so you got to make sure your car is jacked up high enough so there is room for it to move freely. I would be more concerned with damaging the sway bar or axle as I do it see hitting against the axle if you pry too far. Of course you should install the spring asap and not procrastate and leave it pryed open like that for a extended period of time.

Anyways the springs are finally settling to the proper height. I do notice some clanking if I go over a bump too hard. The sound is diminishing as the spring is settling in. So maybe that's normal? Or do I need to retorque it again? Can anyone answer this?

Also here are some pics.

Are you satisfied with your rear height? Looks slightly jacked up. More on this later depending on your answer...

As far as your noise. not normal. Let me ask you two things:

1) Did you tighten the top rear shock nuts after the car was resting on the ground? I also recommend slightly loosening and retorquing the rear lower shock bolt with the weight of the car on it. Don't remove the bolt just loosen and retorque. What torque did you use for the lower shock bolt?

2) Did you tighten your front sway end links? Like really tighten? they need to be super tight. Re-check
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:44 AM   #17038
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Thanks

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Old 03-15-2013, 11:32 AM   #17039
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Originally Posted by WDE46 View Post
You need to use a yellow buffing pad and some cutting compount and an orbital buffer. You can fix that for $300 in tools assuming it's not below the clear coat.

Check out detailedimage.com

That's where I bought all my equipment and learned how to correct my paint. You can get out some pretty serious scratches with the right combo of pads and cutting compounds. I would actually email the owner of that site with that picture and ask him what he recommends. He'll help you out. Return the favor by buying from him.
Thanks

"Came here expecting rape van, left disappointed."
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:54 AM   #17040
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Got half way through installing a new leather arm rest cover, got too lazy to drive to home depot and buy contact cement
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