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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 09-23-2010, 06:58 AM   #101
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On a scale of 1 to 10...how hard is this DIY?
I haven't done a 10 yet but it's like uh...not bad...because most of the time you're working right above the front of the engine...like you're replacing an air filter or something...there's no tricky jack work or blind ratcheting with 4 feet of extensions...it's just a little cramped when you're getting at the crank snout because of the water pump pulley and the radiator clearance. It's not like this:





However it could be made more difficult if you want to replace your front oil seal while you're at it. That seal seems to last forever but it is right there once you have the crank pulley off
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:08 AM   #102
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Originally Posted by aggieE46 View Post
If you can at least measure your snout and then install when you get back, maybe you, Terry, and I can install together on a weekend (and split the deposit).
I come back around mid Apr 11...do you wanna wait?

What's involved in measuring the snout? What's a typical measurement about? I have a micrometer here which measures upto 1".
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:10 AM   #103
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Originally Posted by McSpeed View Post
I haven't done a 10 yet but it's like uh...not bad...because most of the time you're working right above the front of the engine...like you're replacing an air filter or something...there's no tricky jack work or blind ratcheting with 4 feet of extensions...it's just a little cramped when you're getting at the crank snout because of the water pump pulley and the radiator clearance. It's not like this:





However it could be made more difficult if you want to replace your front oil seal while you're at it. That seal seems to last forever but it is right there once you have the crank pulley off
Yeah, as long as it is pretty basic, I might be able to pull off a snout measurement here. I guess I really wanted to ask how risky is this? I don't want to mess something up which requires a skilled professional to fix. The Korean mechanics here are total hacks and will NOT touch my car...not even wash it. The car has to run for me to ship it back to the US.
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:18 AM   #104
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With the baby coming, I'll probably have to. I'll be lucky just to get the thing paid for and sitting on my shelf. I just hope mine hold out. I have a spare, but it has the wrong number for the A/C belt.

I think the snout is over an inch. Might need to get a slightly bigger micrometer.

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I come back around mid Apr 11...do you wanna wait?

What's involved in measuring the snout? What's a typical measurement about? I have a micrometer here which measures upto 1".
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:19 AM   #105
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I come back around mid Apr 11...do you wanna wait?

What's involved in measuring the snout? What's a typical measurement about? I have a micrometer here which measures upto 1".
you need the crank pulley off and a 1"-2" outside micrometer that can resolve to .0001"

However, if lots of people are reporting the same crank snout diameter you could just guess yours based on that. I have the sense that there's enough variation with our cranks to make the mic step worthwhile though.
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:32 AM   #106
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Yeah, as long as it is pretty basic, I might be able to pull off a snout measurement here. I guess I really wanted to ask how risky is this? I don't want to mess something up which requires a skilled professional to fix. The Korean mechanics here are total hacks and will NOT touch my car...not even wash it. The car has to run for me to ship it back to the US.
Assuming you'd have all the special tools & measured the snout, things should be straightforward. You do want to make sure the woodruff key is lined up with the keyway at several points during the final pressing. Adam's pictorial made it seem a lot scarier than it is, at least in part because his thread adapter wasn't quite arrow straight. Also, AFAIK he wasn't using a damper holding tool for the final torquing, which would make me uncomfortable.

Edit: To just get the measurement it's easier because the stock damper will probably just slide back on by hand - no pressing. And the stock holding tool just locks in without any screws even. The main drawback for splitting up the measurement and install phases is the cost of tool rentals + shipping.
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Last edited by McSpeed; 09-23-2010 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 09-23-2010, 03:25 PM   #107
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btw anyone who wants to rent my tool package for this:
The cost is $50 plus shipping.
I brought the box to the shipper and it's like $35 to Virginia and $55 to California for reference.
$600 deposit until it comes back in good condition.
Brady and Julio get first dibs if they want.
Can I rent just the damper install tool, for a smaller deposit and $50+shipping? I already removed the OEM damper, so I don't need the OEM removal tools.
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Old 09-23-2010, 03:51 PM   #108
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Can I rent just the damper install tool, for a smaller deposit and $50+shipping? I already removed the OEM damper, so I don't need the OEM removal tools.
Sure, that's smart for shipping. Lemme know what you want out of the list and the deposit will correspond.
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Old 09-23-2010, 03:53 PM   #109
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I got him to drop the price down to $550. That's $200 off. Not too bad.
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Old 09-23-2010, 03:54 PM   #110
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1. aggieE46 - confirmed
2. bluejeansonfire - confirmed
3. HighBoostin330 - confirmed
4. Zerosum - confirmed

5. fishforlife
6. gte869h
7. Fair - confirmed
8. trippinbimmer - confirmed

9.
10.
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Old 09-23-2010, 03:55 PM   #111
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Sure, that's smart for shipping. Lemme know what you want out of the list and the deposit will correspond.
cool

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I got him to drop the price down to $550. That's $200 off. Not too bad.
damn it
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Old 09-24-2010, 08:39 AM   #112
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2. bluejeansonfire - confirmed
3. HighBoostin330 - confirmed
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5. trippinbimmer - confirmed

6. gte869h
7. Fair - confirmed
8.
9.
10.
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:48 PM   #113
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I got him to drop the price down to $550. That's $200 off. Not too bad.
That's pretty damn good for the damper!
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Old 09-24-2010, 02:20 PM   #114
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Yeah, we need to get at least 9 going on this. I'd love to lock in this price!
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Old 09-27-2010, 04:39 PM   #115
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Any chance this would work for a s52 since they use the same crankshaft?
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Old 09-27-2010, 04:43 PM   #116
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Possibly. Check the part number on RealOEM.

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Any chance this would work for a s52 since they use the same crankshaft?
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Old 09-27-2010, 04:49 PM   #117
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looks like, no joy ghost rider


http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/11231438995/
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Old 09-27-2010, 08:20 PM   #118
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looks like, no joy ghost rider


http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/11231438995/
Oddly enough, RealOEM shows the same part number for the crankshaft...

E36 M3: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...47&hg=11&fg=20

E46 330: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...47&hg=11&fg=20
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Old 09-27-2010, 09:31 PM   #119
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Any chance this would work for a s52 since they use the same crankshaft?
I'm pretty sure they'd make one if you sent them a stock damper as a model. I shipped them one I picked up from a junkyard. Give ATI a call and ask for Ricky. Not sure if it'd count toward the group buy, though.
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Old 09-27-2010, 11:00 PM   #120
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hmm, i might need to look into this.
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