New Brake Set-Up, Tell Me What You Guys Think

I'm going to be ordering brakes and just wanted to share what's on the wishlist, tell me what you guys think about the set up

Going to be used on the street and eventually Autocross when I attend sometime this summer. I'm not too concerned about the money, just looking for a good set-up/with nice looks.

-BMW Performance Cross Drilled Front Rotors (Floating)
-Turner Motorsport Rear Cross Drilled Rotors
-Performance Friction Z Pads or Stoptech Pads... not sure yet?
-SS Brake Lines
-Motul Brake Fluid
-Paint Calipers Black

Cross drilled rotors are crap. Ask anyone who is no stranger to the track. It's completely wasteful because not only do they not offer any added benefits but will eventually crack under high stress.

Originally Posted by nk_zhp

Cross drilled rotors are crap. Ask anyone who is no stranger to the track. It's completely wasteful because not only do they not offer any added benefits but will eventually crack under high stress.

Personally I dont buy that whole crack bs. If it's a crappy company that makes it yes. But not Brembo or BMW. I understand it will not be that beneficial, but the reason is I like the look of cross drill and the BMW ones are floating which makes them 3 lbs lighter EACH.

Not trying to argue, I just feel that everyone jumps on the bandwagon with what ever they hear everyone else saying. There's a reason why BMW and Porsche race cars use cross drilled. I know my brakes will be nothing near a BBK, but I feel it wont hurt.

I've read a lot about that though, but with the rotors I'm leaning a bit more toward looks

Originally Posted by secono330ci

I'm going to be ordering brakes and just wanted to share what's on the wishlist, tell me what you guys think about the set up

Going to be used on the street and eventually Autocross when I attend sometime this summer. I'm not too concerned about the money, just looking for a good set-up/with nice looks.

-BMW Performance Cross Drilled Front Rotors (Floating)
-Turner Motorsport Rear Cross Drilled Rotors
-Performance Friction Z Pads or Stoptech Pads... not sure yet?
-SS Brake Lines
-Motul Brake Fluid
-Paint Calipers Black

Looks like a Good List. Both are Great Pads...

-Anthony@BimmerBrakes

^That's what I'm thinking, I would like to order from you since I could also get the brake fluid and lines aswell. So I may just go the stoptech route..

I have the UUC kit with the M3 euro rotors which are a 2pc floating design. They are have some stress cracks around the holes after 8 days of track usage and 25k miles.

I don't think your brakes will see a lot of heat on an autocross so I think you'll be OK.

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

I have the UUC kit with the M3 euro rotors which are a 2pc floating design. They are have some stress cracks around the holes after 8 days of track usage and 25k miles.

I don't think your brakes will see a lot of heat on an autocross so I think you'll be OK.

I just dont understand why most BBK's use drilled rotors if they crack so easily. BBK's put much more stress on the rotor than any normal set up.

You could always think about the PFC direct drive rotors... fully floating, dimpled, but not cross drilled, and you can replace only the rings when they need it. Front hats are aluminum, rear are steel, and you keep your parking brake. Only downside (besides cost) is that you are somewhat limited in rear pad choices, but the PFC Z pads and the PFC 97/01/06 race pads are great anyway.

^From what I can see they're only available for m3's

Originally Posted by nk_zhp

Cross drilled rotors are crap. Ask anyone who is no stranger to the track. It's completely wasteful because not only do they not offer any added benefits but will eventually crack under high stress.

Cross drilled rotors definitely reduce the surface area of the rotor by quite a bit. I'd go slotted. You get the aftermarket look with a much smaller fraction of surface area removed.

Originally Posted by secono330ci

I just dont understand why most BBK's use drilled rotors if they crack so easily. BBK's put much more stress on the rotor than any normal set up.

It's because BBKs employ actual full floating rotors. The aluminum hats are usually separate from the rotors. This helps with dealing with heat and therefore cross drilled pattern can be used without as much fear.

The rotors that you speak of are 1-piece rotors that feature a solid hat that is one with the rotors. These do not have the same luxury that the two piece rotors have due to its rigid solid hub that can either warp or crack under high levels of stressful braking.

So that's the reason why BBKs feature those nice looking drilled rotors!

^Yup that I understand, I was just suprised to hear that even the Euro m3 rotors that have a floating design still crack according to BigJae. Anyways at least I dont have to worry as much since the BMW performance front rotors are floating (one main reason I'm getting them). The rears arent a big concern since the fronts do most of the braking.

Originally Posted by nk_zhp

Cross drilled rotors are crap. Ask anyone who is no stranger to the track. It's completely wasteful because not only do they not offer any added benefits but will eventually crack under high stress.

Really? then why does AP Racing, and Brembo make them and every top race series in every format, except F1 and MotoGP with thier top dollar, none drilled, none slotted, carbon rotors.

Dont make blanket statements like that... please, those that dont know may believe your BS.

Originally Posted by nk_zhp

Cross drilled rotors are crap. Ask anyone who is no stranger to the track. It's completely wasteful because not only do they not offer any added benefits but will eventually crack under high stress.

The only thing full of holes is the above post! The OP didn't say anything about tracking -- and, no, autocross doesn't count. For autocross, cross-drilled rotors will provide the distinct advantage of more initial bite as there is less surface area (pads heat up quicker) and more leading edges from the holes. This has been documented in SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) peer-reviewed papers and felt by professional drivers around the world. The other thing we do to increase bite for short sessions is to cut additional slots in the pad with a hacksaw, usually gaining another 2 leading edges.

So, while I would never recommend them for serious track use, there are benefits to using high-quality cross-drilled rotors -- not the "crap" you appear to be referring to.

Chris

There's an article in this months Roundel in which StopTech themselves say that drilled rotors will crack sooner than slotted rotors.

It doesn't mean that there aren't benefits, but if you track your car often be prepared to change your rotors more often.

^Very Useful info! Thanks guys

Originally Posted by ModBargains II

It's because BBKs employ actual full floating rotors. The aluminum hats are usually separate from the rotors. This helps with dealing with heat and therefore cross drilled pattern can be used without as much fear.

The rotors that you speak of are 1-piece rotors that feature a solid hat that is one with the rotors. These do not have the same luxury that the two piece rotors have due to its rigid solid hub that can either warp or crack under high levels of stressful braking.

I don't think a 2pc floating design has anything to do with the cracking. The OEM M3 euro rotors are drilled AND floating - 2 pc just like the Brembos.

Nothing wrong with drilled rotors, you will probably be replacing them more often.

FYI, the 330's and M3s have the same diameter rotor (325mm) but the M3 rotors are thicker. If you can find a thinner pad profile then I don't see a reason why you can't use the PFC direct drive rotors with 330 brakes.

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

I don't think a 2pc floating design has anything to do with the cracking. The OEM M3 euro rotors are drilled AND floating - 2 pc just like the Brembos.

Nothing wrong with drilled rotors, you will probably be replacing them more often.

FYI, the 330's and M3s have the same diameter rotor (325mm) but the M3 rotors are thicker. If you can find a thinner pad profile then I don't see a reason why you can't use the PFC direct drive rotors with 330 brakes.

EOM Euro rotors have the holes cast in (probably the same for Brembo and AP Racing, etc)... different than drilling (which is what the el-cheapos do). Holes do create stress risers though, which can promote cracking.

If the 330 uses the same diameter, just pick up a set of used M3 calipers and carriers (can be had for cheap off of someone who installed a BBK) and job done.

Originally Posted by snortdavis

EOM Euro rotors have the holes cast in (probably the same for Brembo and AP Racing, etc)... different than drilling (which is what the el-cheapos do). Holes do create stress risers though, which can promote cracking.

This is an Internet myth. They are certainly not "cast-in", nor are any other drilled rotors on the market anywhere. It may have been tried a time or two as an experiment, but no production rotors are made this way.

Drilling has certain advantage for street and high-performance driving, but even the better ones are not suitable for extended use over 1300°F. The only place one can get and keep rotors up to that temp is on a track. You just can't get there by autocrossing. Below 1300°F, a better quality drilled rotor done by a company with a lot of experience will not crack prematurely under normal use.

Chris

Originally Posted by snortdavis

EOM Euro rotors have the holes cast in (probably the same for Brembo and AP Racing, etc)... different than drilling (which is what the el-cheapos do). Holes do create stress risers though, which can promote cracking.

If the 330 uses the same diameter, just pick up a set of used M3 calipers and carriers (can be had for cheap off of someone who installed a BBK) and job done.

Well, that's kind of pointless of 330's to upgrade to M3 brakes.