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Old 08-17-2016, 09:30 PM   #1
WDE46
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M54 Block Table

Starting a thread to document the build so I don't spam recent purchases...

Block as purchased after power washing at a coin-op car wash



Block masked and primed with Rustoleum Self Etching Primer



Block sprayed with Rustoleum gloss black enamel after about 1-1.5 hrs primer drying



Block paint cured and masking removed. Painted BMW with white paint pen.



My concept for the table top mounting



Simple and straight forward mounting made from 1x1" bar stock. Utilizes the M10 head bolt threaded holes. 80mm aluminum discs will be glued to the glass with clear epoxy.



Aluminum discs are M8 threaded. So I will put a stubby M8 socket head cap screw into the bottom. That will slot into a 33/64" hole in the 1x1" bar stock. At the bottom of the hole I will epoxy a NdFeB magnet that should provide decent force to hold the table top down. This makes the top removable very fast. Then the frame has conveniently formed handles to lift the block with.



Total weight will be about 85 lbs.

If this turns out well, I plan to make a crankshaft side table from an M54 crankshaft.
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Last edited by WDE46; 08-23-2016 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 08-17-2016, 09:32 PM   #2
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Nice cleaning job on the block!
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Old 08-17-2016, 10:02 PM   #3
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You should make the 4 circular mounts that the glass will rest on..... wait for it.... pistons.

You're welcome.
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Old 08-17-2016, 10:07 PM   #4
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I think it would be to find a way to etch an exploded view of a cylinder head into the glass table top in a way that you can still see the block, but it's also possible to visualize how the long block would look.

Block looks great so far.
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Old 08-17-2016, 10:54 PM   #5
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Instead of gluing the aluminum disks to the glass why don't you just use double sided suction cups or the likes between the disks and glass instead? The glass can be easily removed. Also, if the glass happens to break then you can just swap another piece on without having to remake the aluminum disks for the new piece.

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Old 08-17-2016, 11:12 PM   #6
WDE46
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You should make the 4 circular mounts that the glass will rest on..... wait for it.... pistons.

You're welcome.
I've definitely considered it. One of the reasons I have decide against it was cost. Just searching on eBay, a set of pistons for the M54 is ~$150. I would be a very nice touch. I could possible do it in the future as a mod. I bet I can knock off the discs without breaking the glass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xcelratr View Post
I think it would be to find a way to etch an exploded view of a cylinder head into the glass table top in a way that you can still see the block, but it's also possible to visualize how the long block would look.

Block looks great so far.
I would like to do something like that. I'm having a hard time finding custom etching sites that actually do what I need. Any help here would be appreciated. I think I will definitely at least make a clear printout that details the engine specs. Think of something like a museum placard.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MorganFreeman View Post
Instead of gluing the aluminum disks to the glass why don't you just use double sided suction cups or the likes between the disks and glass instead? The glass can be easily removed. Also, if the glass happens to break then you can just swap another piece on without having to remake the aluminum disks for the new piece.

I want to preserve the aesthetic of the discs. They were made on a CNC lathe so they have this nice CD type look without the color spectrum. I'm not sure if the surface will accept suction. I will probably wait a while before using the epoxy so I can think of other ideas.



Keep the ideas coming.
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Last edited by WDE46; 08-17-2016 at 11:13 PM.
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Old 08-17-2016, 11:43 PM   #7
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Maybe a clear sheet of 1/8" silicone that you can cut out exact circles that match the discs? Preserve the aesthetic, provide grip and vibration dampening when you throttle up.
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Old 08-18-2016, 12:04 AM   #8
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Hmmm...if you want to preserve the looks of the disks then maybe you can try to find or make 4 aluminum rings with an inner diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the disks. Glue the rings to the glass which would then encompasses the disks once you lay the glass on top of the disks.




Mpower has a good point with using silicone to dampen vibration so you don't get the clank sound if the fitment is off. Maybe you can try silicone rings or aluminum?

Did you try testing how the clear epoxy would look once you lay it on top of the disks? Wouldn't it alter the look of the disks somehow?
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Old 08-18-2016, 12:11 AM   #9
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Looks nice. What did the gf say?
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Old 08-18-2016, 12:58 AM   #10
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you know how much its going to hurt if your foot accidentally kicks that.
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Old 08-18-2016, 09:55 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by bimmerfan08 View Post
Looks nice. What did the gf say?
Had to dump her for the table.

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Originally Posted by clk500 View Post
you know how much its going to hurt if your foot accidentally kicks that.
Yes, I may never walk again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MP0WER View Post
Maybe a clear sheet of 1/8" silicone that you can cut out exact circles that match the discs? Preserve the aesthetic, provide grip and vibration dampening when you throttle up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MorganFreeman View Post
Hmmm...if you want to preserve the looks of the disks then maybe you can try to find or make 4 aluminum rings with an inner diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the disks. Glue the rings to the glass which would then encompasses the disks once you lay the glass on top of the disks.




Mpower has a good point with using silicone to dampen vibration so you don't get the clank sound if the fitment is off. Maybe you can try silicone rings or aluminum?

Did you try testing how the clear epoxy would look once you lay it on top of the disks? Wouldn't it alter the look of the disks somehow?
The slip ring idea is cool. Hard part is finding rings that fit just right. That would not be a problem if the lathe at work wasn't a POS. I cannot wait until we get a new one. We have a bridgeport style mill, but it broke recently :-( There is also a surface grinder, but I don't really know how to use it confidently. I wouldn't want to blow up a grinding wheel.

Clear silicone may be a good alternative to gluing. It'd be a good stop-gap if I decide I want to do pistons.

I was going to use some LB Clear Epoxy, but I don't think that's going to cut it. Now I'm looking at a product called Nano 470. It's expensive but looks like it's incredibly strong and perfectly clear. I bought the glass from Dulles Glass and Mirror and they only recommend Nano 470.

Demo video is impressive.

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Last edited by WDE46; 08-18-2016 at 09:57 AM.
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Old 08-18-2016, 10:30 AM   #12
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Nice project.
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Old 08-18-2016, 10:35 AM   #13
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AWESOME

Since you are considering a crankshaft side table, how about a camshaft table lamp, with headlight bowls as the reflector? Maybe a driveshaft or halfshaft floor lamp?
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Old 08-18-2016, 10:39 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by WDE46 View Post
The slip ring idea is cool. Hard part is finding rings that fit just right. That would not be a problem if the lathe at work wasn't a POS. I cannot wait until we get a new one. We have a bridgeport style mill, but it broke recently :-( There is also a surface grinder, but I don't really know how to use it confidently. I wouldn't want to blow up a grinding wheel.

Clear silicone may be a good alternative to gluing. It'd be a good stop-gap if I decide I want to do pistons.

I was going to use some LB Clear Epoxy, but I don't think that's going to cut it. Now I'm looking at a product called Nano 470. It's expensive but looks like it's incredibly strong and perfectly clear. I bought the glass from Dulles Glass and Mirror and they only recommend Nano 470.
1.) Can you not just buy an aluminum tube of the right ID to match the discs and just cut discs off of it with a chop/band saw? No need to over complicate things...

2.) You don't need a surface grinder for a ring lol.

3.) I have a full set of pistons from a M50 motor. They're yours for the cost of shipping. Let me know. I don't plan on using them for my build, I'm going to do what you're currently planning on doing because I like that style.

4.) The crankshaft makes a sweet table lamp when paired with a brake rotor as a base.
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Old 08-18-2016, 10:55 AM   #15
WDE46
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1.) Can you not just buy an aluminum tube of the right ID to match the discs and just cut discs off of it with a chop/band saw? No need to over complicate things...

2.) You don't need a surface grinder for a ring lol.

3.) I have a full set of pistons from a M50 motor. They're yours for the cost of shipping. Let me know. I don't plan on using them for my build, I'm going to do what you're currently planning on doing because I like that style.

4.) The crankshaft makes a sweet table lamp when paired with a brake rotor as a base.
1. Possibly. I haven't looked. They're supposed to be 80 mm diameter, so I can check easyily on McMaster. Good idea though. We have a band saw that should be fairly easy to make decent cuts on. I can finish them on the belt sander.

EDIT: Just looked. Closest in Al is too far off on the OD. Closest in steel is such huge wall thickness that one foot of tube is $160.

2. A lot of this project is aesthetics. The surface grinder gives a really awesome surface finish and texture. Obviously it's not necessary, but it'd be a nice tool to use. Also, they make such a flat surface that the ring or disc or whatever I make would vacuum itself to the glass. You mount parts to the machine with a magnetic base, so aluminum is out if I went this route.

3. I may consider this. I need to figure out mounting on the frame, but pistons would be way cooler than discs.

4. Brake rotor is so obvious now. I couldn't think of what to use for a base. Seems like a top heavy lamp though, no?
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Old 08-18-2016, 10:58 AM   #16
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4. Brake rotor is so obvious now. I couldn't think of what to use for a base. Seems like a top heavy lamp though, no?
Get a bigger brake rotor lol. Either that or add some weight to the bottom to anchor it down. It has been done, I've seen photos of it so it must work somehow...
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Old 08-18-2016, 11:32 AM   #17
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In. I've been wanting to do this, but it's so freaking heavy.
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Old 08-18-2016, 12:02 PM   #18
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1. Possibly. I haven't looked. They're supposed to be 80 mm diameter, so I can check easyily on McMaster. Good idea though. We have a band saw that should be fairly easy to make decent cuts on. I can finish them on the belt sander.

EDIT: Just looked. Closest in Al is too far off on the OD. Closest in steel is such huge wall thickness that one foot of tube is $160.
Just a couple thoughts but what about shaving the 80mm disks down to a smaller diameter to make finding materials to create the slip rings easier? Does it need to be 80mm wide?

Or, what about creating a slip ring out of the existing 80mm disks?

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Old 08-18-2016, 12:26 PM   #19
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Can't shave the current discs down. They were lathed and the only grip surface is the OD. Once they're parted off you can't mount them again and machine the OD. It definitely doesn't have to be 80mm. I actually goofed a bit and 80mm didn't really register in my brain as over 3 inches in diameter. I was visualizing like a 2 inch disc at the time.
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Old 08-18-2016, 12:26 PM   #20
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...or just finding smaller disks? Looks like finding a 70mm disk would work fine with a 3in (76mm) ID rings that are available from mcmaster.
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