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Old 07-19-2010, 11:46 AM   #1
tapori2010
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2001 330 CI water leak

I have a small leak in my car. it is not the waterpump.

i don't know how to explain but when you open the hood, its right next to the cap where you put the antifreeze in.

so when i press the gas pedal, i see it Squirting out of that black hole next to it.

Please suggest how i can fix that, or should i fill it up with glue? let me know if you need more info
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Old 07-19-2010, 12:53 PM   #2
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You'll either have to explain better or send photo?

I'm not sure if you mean a bleeder screw or the PS reservoir.

If the latter, then it's a black lid you unscrew and you see fluid pulsing out of it...that'd be PS fluid and probably coz your fluid is either high, messed up, or both. Search "Turkey Baster and PS fluid" and you'll find thread on this. Also there's a gasket underneath that often goes bad...a $2 part.

If not this, and is the cooling system bleeder screw...1/2" in diameter or so...on the hose end that attached to Expansion Tank and radiator.

Also, first post, right? Welcome!

Any abbreviations or things you're not getting...search...read basic threads above...read lots of diys and hope you enjoy the place!

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Old 07-19-2010, 01:23 PM   #3
tapori2010
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It's a black lid .. when i am putting antifreeze in my car, i see bubbles coming out of it, and when hit the gas pedal, it squirts out of that black lid. Please look at the picture with red arrow and tell me if that helps. how do i change that? can i put a new one or fix this? buy it at autozone?


Last edited by tapori2010; 07-19-2010 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 07-19-2010, 01:51 PM   #4
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That's the bleeder screw, and if it's leaking, first thing you need to do is remove and inspect...actually, first try screwing it down. If it goes down, then you know the leak was just coz it was loose, but you should still remove and inspect.

Buy a new one if needed...and it may well be needed, at dealer, or online from one of our sponsors who sell oe parts.

When engine is cool...and don't start it if it is, check coolant level in ET...remember to lubricate cap and filler neck with coolant...fill to between min and max.

You're going to need to spend a lot more time reading around here, though, if you don't know what a bleeder screw is...search 'bleeding cooling system' and if you have any issues beyond this with cooling, I'd say go full bore, replace everything, and forget about it for 5 years.

Level of coolant in ET is critical...careful with that...only check level and monitor differences in a.m., much easier to see changes when the temp is always the same.

HTH

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Old 07-19-2010, 03:22 PM   #5
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Thanks! It seems to have a small hole in there. Please look at the photo. Also how do i remove it? i tried the straight screw driver, there is nothing inside this screw that will turn.
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Old 07-19-2010, 03:35 PM   #6
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Thanks! It seems to have a small hole in there. Please look at the photo. Also how do i remove it? i tried the straight screw driver, there is nothing inside this screw that will turn.
It's supposed to have a small hole, but if it's broken then a variety of things will do, depending on your skills and tools.

There was a thread very recently...last 2-3 weeks on this...and I'm sure I posted in it, so if you search for me and bleeder screw and broken, you might find it.

BTW, don't ever do what I say right away without making sure someone confirms...coz I don't want to be responsible if your car blows up coz I forgot something...just trying to help.

Search any of the million diys on cooling systems, and you'll see what it should look like...and if you can, heat up screwdriver and stick it into remnant bleeder screw to remove...without melting the side threads...that or just replace upper therm hose...all of $30 or so and $20 for coolant if you don't have any...mix 50/50 with distilled water.

Anyway, search broken bleed screw and/or me, you'll find stuff out that will come in handy.

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Old 07-19-2010, 05:17 PM   #7
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okay i just found this screw lying around, and i tried to fit and tighten it, but it wont. what should i do at this point? buy an upper therm hose or just this piece? i want to fix it easily. Please suggest.

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Old 07-19-2010, 05:30 PM   #8
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that's the top of the bleeder screw...though I can't see the bottom...if it threads into the hole all the way in, go for it, but I thought you had a broken piece of it in the hose. If so, you have to get that out first...melt screwdriver and make yourself a slot in that remaining piece. Hold it still in there until the plastic hardens...don't rush...then turn very gently counterclockwise...the normal way to loosen a screw. It needs to be replaced.

Also, please read up cooling diys so you know how to properly bleed...and know the torque values of some of the things you'll be playing around with.

Bleeder screw is plastic...not monster tight...same with ET cap...and many other caps...check torque settings to get an idea if you're not yet familiar with what tight feels like.

HTH

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Old 07-19-2010, 05:30 PM   #9
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Also, how careful do we have to be to fix this? anything might blow? if i just buy this new screw and simply tighten it and pour coolent, is it that simple? i read about taking the air out etcs...
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Old 07-19-2010, 05:34 PM   #10
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maybe the problem is that screw was unscrewed ? i didnt see broken peice in the hose...
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Old 07-19-2010, 05:43 PM   #11
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initially, to start off with, i didn't have the top of the bleeder screw. maybe thats the reason the water was squirting out? now i cannot get the top to tighten...
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Old 07-19-2010, 05:50 PM   #12
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initially, to start off with, i didn't have the top of the bleeder screw. maybe thats the reason the water was squirting out? now i cannot get the top to tighten...
That's why coolant is leaking, your bleeder screw is broken, remove old piece carefully, replace bleeder screw...and search for me and bleeding cooling system or something like that...I know my instructions are right...but find me writing at least twice in case I forgot something...maybe listen to some of my friends here too!

You NEED to properly have system bled and to the right level...do not drive the car as it is now...or at least not far at all...and if it overheats...the gauge goes above dead center...pull over...stop car, put on heater to full if you need a few feet to get over safely, that might buy you an extra second of not needing $2500 in repairs or a new engine. Cooling systems are very useful things!

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Old 07-19-2010, 05:54 PM   #13
tapori2010
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bleeder screw is broken meaning the top? since it won't tighten or the bleeder screw when you remove this top.
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Old 07-19-2010, 05:58 PM   #14
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Either the bleed screw is broken or you haven't screwed it in properly. You must keep turning it until it hit a stop. So long as you can turn it, you haven't hit the stop.
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Old 07-19-2010, 06:07 PM   #15
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Either the bleed screw is broken or you haven't screwed it in properly. You must keep turning it until it hit a stop. So long as you can turn it, you haven't hit the stop.
Look more closely at the photo...it's the top of bleeder screw only. It's pouring out coz the screw is cracked off and only the bleeder hole slit is open.

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Old 07-19-2010, 07:39 PM   #16
tapori2010
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well, the screw was broken, half of the screw was inside thats why it will never tighten up. what i did was, i just bought the complete hose and replaced it i will put some coolent now in a little bit, i need to go buy some. hopefully i will be back on the road once again. i will keep you guys posted. thanks for all the help and so quick responses!
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Old 07-19-2010, 08:16 PM   #17
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gotta read up on cooling diys first.
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:24 AM   #18
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Thanks guys for all the help! I just replaced the hose and the problem was fixed right away !
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:36 AM   #19
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i got a brass bleeder screw its amazing, and shiny
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:45 AM   #20
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... ill just get in here before somebody says it because i know its coming. i DONT strip the upper radiator hose because i have a metal screw. i simply dont overtighten it..
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