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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 08-02-2010, 10:38 PM   #21
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Thanks!!! I'm really trying to perfect the art of wrapping (its so funny remembering the early sets as I experiemented and learned... still learning; always learning).... Wife likes it too; always knows where to find me..... In the garage wrapping. My RC Heli hobby has pretty much died (too bad cause it's a BLAST). gonna have to find time for it....

First time attempting something as complex as the centre consoles. My first attempt @ the ECU cover did not work as well as I'd hoped (but as well as expected considering the resin and clearcoat I was using @ the time). The resin set too quickly to do anything but simple parts. West System products are great and allow me the working time (90 - 110 minutes) to wrap more involved parts.

Here are some final pictures of the centre console and ECU cover now that the clear coat has dried and ready for installation. What appear to be imprefections on surface are reflections (no matter what angle I tried, there were reflections; guess it must be smooth )











As I said previously interior weave by e-brake is messed up in a funky (kinda like the randomness way), but I know what to do when I do a new centre console in the red/black kevlar and CF cloth that will be arriving this week. Going to wrap a complete interior set including centre console for my car..... guess I'm gonna have to find a home for my current set......

Going to give them tonight to fully harden and install tomorrow.
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:54 PM   #22
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Got the centre console installed last night. Had to wait till today to take pictures. Here they are:









Cloth arrived today (of course I was @ meeting so I missed delivery; picking up tomorrow)!! Can't wait to wrap set in red/black kevlar/cF cloth. Should add some nice contrast to interior. *rockout* *th-up*
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Old 08-06-2010, 09:54 AM   #23
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I think I've managed to get Redlinegoods (www.redlinegoods.com) to make a custom shift boot to match the new red CF interior I will be wrapping this weekend. If it looks as good as I suspect, I'm going to have to sell my current set next week!! anyone interested in a complete 9 piece set? includes all standard interior trim and centre console....
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Old 08-07-2010, 12:20 AM   #24
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Old 08-07-2010, 02:34 AM   #25
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PM sent....
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Old 08-09-2010, 12:43 PM   #26
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Red Kevlar/black CF wrapping update!!!

Well, as I mentioned earlier, was getting bored with my black CF set (wanted to make interior stand out).... and so I've started wrapping a set in red Kevlar/black CF cloth. Thought it would look good, but OMG!! it looks awesome!!

These pics have a base coat and first top coat of resin. Need to lightly sand next and then 1 to 2 more coats of resin before wet sanding (tomorrow night). Just did the 4 pieces intially, but now convinced I'm doing the door trim and centre console too!!

Thoughts?









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Old 08-09-2010, 02:17 PM   #27
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how much for just the shifter trim?
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Old 08-09-2010, 09:35 PM   #28
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looks great. when you are finished, are they all smooth to the touch or do you feel ripples/waves?
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Old 08-09-2010, 11:48 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRBOVNM View Post
looks great. when you are finished, are they all smooth to the touch or do you feel ripples/waves?
They're smooth. The wavey feeling is gone after 2nd or 3rd resin. The goal is to get it smooth before clear coat and clear gives it UV protection, additional protection from scratches and additional depth.

I've actually been playing with just applying a single base coat and that's it! The cloth has to be layed perfectly, but it looks really interesting. Could just leave "as is" or possibly minimal clear just to protect but retain textures.....

Something I want to explore further....
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:27 PM   #30
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A quick update.

Well, on the way to perfection you're constantly trying to improve and that requires investments in equipment. TOday I made one of those investments. I just installed a 3-stage air purification system for my air compressor (had one before, but this one filters down to 0.01 micron) and is designed specifically for automotive painting applications. Should eliminate all contamination in clear coat. first stage is particulate (dirt, dust, etc) and water removal; stage 2 is oil separation and the 3rd stage is a carbon filter to clean and dry the air. Over $700 for the set.

Here are the specifications:

Air output: .003ppm of .01 micron. ISO class 1, HEPA grade, Grade "D" instrument grade



Is it perfect; not yet; is it going to be; VERY SHORTLY!!

I'm making the investments; let's see if they pay-off.
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Last edited by Nachos23; 09-02-2010 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 09-16-2010, 03:51 PM   #31
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Bill For the Fuucking Win Any body Who is interested in purchasing a trim from him Dont hesitate and say SalM Reccomended you and heres another thread for this

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=791445
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Old 09-16-2010, 06:56 PM   #32
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Not knocking your thread, I think this looks really neat.

But, West System doesn't stick to plastic and will eventually split from the original pieces (just bend one and it will pop). You'd be better off making a plug from the original trim, and fabricating all new pieces (you're 90% there already).

Just add a foam core wherever possible in the console for rigidity. Use regular mat for the underside to save $$.

Also, this method (if you made a good mold) would provide a flawless finish with minor wetsanding.

I also suggest using varnish to finish the carbon instead of clear coat, this will provide a similar finish and protect against UV.

Last edited by Turd Furgasun; 09-16-2010 at 07:07 PM.
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Old 09-17-2010, 05:00 AM   #33
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This is awesome!!! I may have to try this. Looks like it will take some practice though
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Old 09-17-2010, 07:44 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turd Furgasun View Post
Not knocking your thread, I think this looks really neat.

But, West System doesn't stick to plastic and will eventually split from the original pieces (just bend one and it will pop). You'd be better off making a plug from the original trim, and fabricating all new pieces (you're 90% there already).

Just add a foam core wherever possible in the console for rigidity. Use regular mat for the underside to save $$.

Also, this method (if you made a good mold) would provide a flawless finish with minor wetsanding.

I also suggest using varnish to finish the carbon instead of clear coat, this will provide a similar finish and protect against UV.
Hey. Thanks for the advice. Actually the West System does work quite well for our application (spent an hour on the phone with their engineers before going to theri products). Had a couple of early pieces separate; but what I found and it was based on their recommendations; is that if you properly wet out the fabric and use a roller to apply to properly wet out the fabric + remove the excess resin, then it sticks quite well. Been looking @ moulds, but then you're talking vacuum bagging which an additional expense and i in my plans for the winter. In the last 2 months, replaced my paint gun, added air filtration (as pictured above) and most recently a new 60 gallon compressor producing 18.5cfm @ 100psi (wiring in today).... so need to make some more $$$$ before considering additional cost of vacuum bagging; unless this can be achieved without vacuum bagging (or an inexpensive way to vacuum bag).....

When the above method is used for base coat of resin and other tricks they mentioned and some I've developed myself, there is barely any sanding to be done. Light dry sanding between coats and light wet sanding before clear coating.

Curious in regards to the varnish vs. clear coat. The BASF clear coat I'm using has UV protection (as does the West 207 special hardner I'm using. Are there other benefits to the varnish?


Quote:
Originally Posted by NISZILA View Post
This is awesome!!! I may have to try this. Looks like it will take some practice though
"some practice" is an understatement. I've invested literally hundreds of hours researching techniques (and developing some of my own based on what I've seen) and products (they are a critical component). Having wrapping in excess of 150 parts now, I'm getting to the point that I would consider the quality Commercial or better.
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Old 09-17-2010, 07:47 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turd Furgasun View Post
Not knocking your thread, I think this looks really neat.

But, West System doesn't stick to plastic and will eventually split from the original pieces (just bend one and it will pop). You'd be better off making a plug from the original trim, and fabricating all new pieces (you're 90% there already).

Just add a foam core wherever possible in the console for rigidity. Use regular mat for the underside to save $$.

Also, this method (if you made a good mold) would provide a flawless finish with minor wetsanding.

I also suggest using varnish to finish the carbon instead of clear coat, this will provide a similar finish and protect against UV.
Just noticed you're in Oakville. I'm in Brampton. We should hook-up and discuss (if you want to help). I'll come down your way if need be, or come up here and check out the setup and we can discuss vacuum bagging and moulds; and I'll make it up to you (free wrappig??)..... You can reach me @ wrapping@rogers.com.


Take care. Bill
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Old 09-17-2010, 08:14 AM   #36
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can't wait to get mine back.
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Old 09-17-2010, 08:32 AM   #37
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yours are sanded and painted black. After my coffee, going outside to sand black and begin wrapping. Will only clear coat AFTER new compressor wired-up. Need the constant head pressure for the clear. Having to stop every few seconds now to allow tank to re-pressurize before starting to paint again. PITA and must affect quality of clear. with 18.5cfm @ 100psi (I need 13cfm @ 43psi), I'll have ample head pressure to ensure consistent spraying. Will require less clear as coverage will be more consistent and less chance of the negative side-effects of too much clear (build-up on edges, runs, uneven, etc). The roller method I just started using a couple of weeks ago (on the M3 set I did) has a definite impact on the sanding and providing a flat surface that requires VERY little sanding and therefore significantly minimizes the chances of over-sanding and cutting the CF cloth underneath. When the cloth is "wavey" under the resin, the highpoints can cause "burns/missing cloth" when sanding. By using the roller method on my last 3 sets, I've found there is virtually no sanding required @ initial stages and I can lay 2-3 costs of resin before sanding @ all. This ensures the cf cloth underneith is NOT touched.

This is the method I'm using for your parts!!! My red kevlar set is now ready to be wet sanded (as are the other sets) and clear coated, but they're sitting to the side waiting for your parts to get to same point. Sunday will be a long clear coating day as I have 4 sets to complete. Yours, mine and 2 others.... LOL.... built a turn-table recently as well for painting. This way, no weird angles required to reach all areas of the parts. Built a separate drying area, so parts get painted and then moved to drying area to cure. Working too closely together, you get a chance of over-spray from one part hitting another; not good!.
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Old 09-17-2010, 08:42 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Nachos23 View Post
Just noticed you're in Oakville. I'm in Brampton. We should hook-up and discuss (if you want to help). I'll come down your way if need be, or come up here and check out the setup and we can discuss vacuum bagging and molds; and I'll make it up to you (free wrapping??)..... You can reach me @ wrapping@rogers.com.


Take care. Bill

yeah, may be a neat project once the boats are away.

You can start vacuum bagging for under $50. Just buy a cheap brake bleeding pump at Canadian tire (seriously, works great) , vapour barrier and sticky rubber/weather stripping to seal the edges. You need the mat which soaks up the excess epoxy. With the investment you've made so far, this will provide the biggest improvement to the final product and greatly reduce the final finish work.
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Old 09-17-2010, 09:10 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turd Furgasun View Post
yeah, may be a neat project once the boats are away.

You can start vacuum bagging for under $50. Just buy a cheap brake bleeding pump at Canadian tire (seriously, works great) , vapour barrier and sticky rubber/weather stripping to seal the edges. You need the mat which soaks up the excess epoxy. With the investment you've made so far, this will provide the biggest improvement to the final product and greatly reduce the final finish work.
Definitely in for it..... Read similar threads about getting into bagging inexpensively and been definitely considering.... too many questions still.... like cure time; all I can see is "until it's cured" does that mean the 10 -15 hrs normal curing time/part?? That would take forever with sets of 8 pieces. Or does the vacuum process reduce that time significantly?

I would need to setup a multple bagging system to handle 8 piece sets and do it productively.....

I also read where glad garbage bags (the 100% polyurethane ones) work great as a bagging material because the resin won't attach to polyurethane. Where to get the mat? Also, read about charcoal filters to clean return air of any last resin to ensure it doesn't get into pump. Guess, I need to spend some more time experimenting. Have the perfect part to try on. The ECU cover from an e46. Lots of ridges and angles. always a PITA to wrap!
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Old 09-17-2010, 06:07 PM   #40
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