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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 08-11-2010, 04:02 PM   #1
McSpeed
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M54B30 ATI Super Damper DIY

Hi Guys,
Let me know if anything needs clarification.

Tools that I got for this:

1. Mitutoyo .0001" 1-2" outside micrometer & Mitutoyo 1" gage blocks
2. Factory special tools for pulling stock BMW damper
3. ATI's installer/puller kit w/ the thread adapter they made
4. Custom fabbed pulley holder for final 300ft-lb crank bolt torquing
5. 22mm 3/4" drive socket for crank bolt
6. The 8mm hex driver and the T60 torx driver for relieving the belt tensioners
7. 5/16" 12 point socket for removing the AC pulley from the Super Damper
8. Monster 3/4" drive torque wrench: http://jmtest.com/pages/productdetail.asp?ID=222
9. Antiseize and grease.
10. 1/2" drive (or larger) breaker bar and ~4' pipe for more leverage

Phase 1: Crank Snout Measurement
(EDIT: The crank snout is the very end of the crank nearest to the radiator. It sticks out from the engine a little so the vibration damper (aka crank pulley) can be pressed onto it. You never see the crank snout until the vibration damper is pulled off. The diameter measurement ATI wants is the outside diameter of this part of the crank so they know how much they should hone out the Super Damper's hub to achieve the proper fit.)

EDIT #2: First remove your airbox and intake hood (mine were already long gone).

a. Raise the front of the car onto jack stands. I jacked from the center point in the front and placed jackstands under the plastic pads. Put the car in neutral so the crank can be turned with a wrench as needed.

b. Remove the fan/shroud so you can access the pulleys: First unplug the two sets of wires attached to it, tuck the wires off the the side. Unscrew the philips on the left. Pop the plastic rivet on the right. Pull up the assembly and set aside.



c. Mark direction of each belt with a sharpie so they can be put back the same way.

d. Use a T60 torx driver on a ratchet to de-tension the AC belt as you slip it off.

e. Use the 8mm hex driver on a ratchet to detension the serpentine belt as you slip it off.

f. Insert the the factory holding tool into the front of the vibration damper and rotate it to lock it in place. Orient it so that it's hitting the floor. I used slate slabs to brace at a good angle:





g. Now we get the crank bolt off. It's torqued to a healthy 300ft-lbs. Take a 1/2"drive (or 3/4" ideally) breaker bar with a 22mm socket and position it for a counter clockwise pull. I slipped a pipe onto the handle for more leverage. Unthread it from he crank with a ratchet or your hand and set it aside.









h. Pull the vibration damper off. Mine slipped off easily. If yours doesn't you can use the factory puller tool which is pretty self explanatory when you see it [not pictured]. Below is my stock damper:





i. Use the micrometer to measure the crank snout diameter every which way until you have a consistent reading. First learn how to read it. Here's a write up about a similar model: http://www.wikihow.com/Use-and-Read-...ide-Micrometer. Then train yourself with the micrometer: clamp the included one inch gage block and feel how much twist force results in reading of 1.0000". Also check out this youtube video:

.



j. Give ATI your reading and they'll tailor hone your hub for an interference fit of .0008" - .0011". I'd say leave your car up in the air until your Super Damper comes in after a few days.

Phase 2: Super Damper Installation

a. Unbolt the AC pulley from the Super Damper. The 3 bolts are tightened to 30ft-lbs and they presented a removal challenge because I didn't want to mar the surface of the Super Damper with a clamp.. The bolts on mine were bumped off with an impact wrench by the shop that made the special tool.

b. Mark your woodruff keyway on the super damper hub. You need to be able to see it to make sure you're lined up when you press on the SuperDamper. I tried a sharpie first but decided it was too imprecise, so I cut a rectangle out of some Avery sticky label paper to the exact size of the keyway and just stuck it on temporarily. Then loosely put your crank bolt back in and, after putting the car into neutral, use it plus a wrench to rotate the crank clockwise so that the woodruff key ends up around the 5'oclock position if you're looking at the car head on. Then take the crank bolt out. This will give you the best view when you have to line up the woodruff key from under the car. In case you're wondering, below is a post install pic that shows what the woodruff key/keyway is - the thing that sticks out of the crank that slides into a groove in the damper hub. The purpose of it is to lock the damper in place on the crank while still allowing them to be disassembled [somewhat] easily.



c. Apply antiseize to the crank snout. You can see it here hiding below the big top pulley of the water pump.



d. Screw the thread adapter into the crank snout. It is made out of an OEM crank bolt that ATI machined some threads into so their installation tool will screw onto it. Anyway, get the adapter's threads into the crank but keep it very loose.



e. Grease the threads of the installation tool. I used spray-on white lithium grease.



f. Put the damper on the tool and screw the three 12 point bolts/washers on to the push plate.

g. Screw the tool/damper assembly onto the thread adapter. There isn't much clearance for this because of the radiator. Again, get the threads in but keep this set up very loose.

h. Get the Super Damper up to the snout using your hands to stabilize the installation tool while you turn the press nut. After that you need some fairly large crescent wrenches.

i. Line up the woodruff key on the snout with the keyway on the damper hub. The easiest view is under the car. When I took this picture I'd already removed the sticker I used as a guide and obscured the key & keyway but at least you can see the view angle and the sharpie marks that indicate the keyway as they disapper under the fron toil seal.



j. Hold the end of the installation tool in place with one wrench as you turn the large nut with the other. This becomes more difficult the farther you get due the interference fit. Every few turns check the keyway alignment.. Once it's on all the way you won't be able to turn the nut anymore. If you try too hard you'll seize the tool in place like I did and have to use a pipe extension on a wrench to back off the nut.



k. Uncrew the press plate from the damper and back it off as far as possible.

l. Blindly insert some object (I used a big allen wrench) into the front of the Super Damper hub where the thread adapter is to prevent it from turning as you unscrew the installation tool from the thread adapter. You'll have to do this by feel because you can't see it. Be thankful that you left these things loose. Get the installation tool out of there first, leaving the thread adapter for the moment, or else you won't be able to clear the radiator.

m. Unscrew the thread adapter and put the crank bolt in its place. Hand screw it as far as it will go. Then use a small wrench as far as you can go. I say small wrench but I really mean a 1/2" drive ratchet. After using the big torque wrench I see things differently.

n. Install the holding tool, torquing the three 12 point screws pretty tight - I didn't go all the way to 30ft-lbs. I used slate slabs to acheive a good height to brace with.





o. Set the mammoth torque wrench to 300ft-lbs and snap on the 22mm socket.





p. Torque it down. Remember - the torque wrench isn't accurate unless you hear the click during the movement of a pull. When I did it, the click finally happened without the bolt moving at all on that pull so I moved the slate slabs to the other side, reversed the holding tool orientation, backed off the bolt a little with the extended breaker bar, rearranged the holder again, then retorqued and got a good moving click. When you're done unbolt the holding tool.



q. Reinstall the AC pulley with 3 new* 12 point screws/washers using blue loctite. Torque them to 30ft-lbs. (*I ordered a second set of screws & washers so I didn't have to reuse the same ones I (ab)used for install duties.)

r. Reinstall your belts, noting the original direction of each.

s. Reinstall the fan with its plastic rivet, long screw and plugs.

t. Make sure the engine bay is clear of tools and rags and then you're done! Except for the jackstands! And cleanup! Awesome!

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Turbo Driveability Video

Horsepower vs. Torque

Last edited by McSpeed; 10-01-2010 at 09:57 PM.
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Old 08-11-2010, 04:20 PM   #2
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I'm just a little lost. What is the crank snout? Is it the outer diameter of that silver ring inside the crank?
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Old 08-11-2010, 04:28 PM   #3
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Excellent work!
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Old 08-11-2010, 04:40 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighBoostin330 View Post
I'm just a little lost. What is the crank snout? Is it the outer diameter of that silver ring inside the crank?
Good question. Updated!

Quote:
Originally Posted by aggieE46 View Post
Excellent work!
Thanks man!
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Turbo Driveability Video

Horsepower vs. Torque

Last edited by McSpeed; 08-11-2010 at 10:58 PM.
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Old 08-11-2010, 05:16 PM   #5
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Yep!

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I'm just a little lost. What is the crank snout? Is it the outer diameter of that silver ring inside the crank?
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Old 08-11-2010, 05:32 PM   #6
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great info here
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Old 08-15-2010, 07:22 PM   #7
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Very nice writeup
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:15 AM   #8
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Thanks guys - now updated with more pics!
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Old 08-17-2010, 01:10 AM   #9
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Sounds like a huge PIA! Great write up!
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Old 10-01-2010, 08:50 PM   #10
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Now that I've committed to getting the ATI damper, I looked at thsi very carefully. Seems pretty straight forward, just need a few special tools.

I need to measure my snout, put the OEM damper back on, and then wait a couple of weeks until the ATI damper will arrive. Do I need to replace any parts to put the OEM damper back on?
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:06 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Now that I've committed to getting the ATI damper, I looked at thsi very carefully. Seems pretty straight forward, just need a few special tools.

I need to measure my snout, put the OEM damper back on, and then wait a couple of weeks until the ATI damper will arrive. Do I need to replace any parts to put the OEM damper back on?
Nope - you'd just put the damper back on, torque the crank bolt, and put the belts back in place.

btw the torque wrench rental place I dealt with offers rental for a month which might work out better given your 2 week overseas shipping delay. That is, assuming they'll send it overseas.
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Horsepower vs. Torque
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:20 PM   #12
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Excusse my ignorance on the subject, but whats the benefit in changing the damper?
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:25 PM   #13
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excellent write up. is this the result of the group buy? I didnt konw if that ever happened or not. Hows it feel?
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:40 PM   #14
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Excusse my ignorance on the subject, but whats the benefit in changing the damper?
There're a few links here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=765627

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excellent write up. is this the result of the group buy? I didnt konw if that ever happened or not. Hows it feel?
The group buy is taxiing to the runway.
It feels way smoother from 4K up When I first put it in I was kind of disoriented shifting because I'd learned to use the increase in engine harshness around 6K as a shift cue -so I'd have to keep looking at the tach or sometimes I'd hit the rev limiter.
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Horsepower vs. Torque
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Old 12-30-2010, 08:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
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The group buy is taxiing to the runway.
Actually, there is a blizzard so we are all on the tarmac, stuck in the plane for the last 30 days. Should take off on Monday.

This is a what if. What if I start pressing the damper on and I line up the woodruff key incorrectly? Will it be a total PIA to remove the damper and try again? Can I adjust the damper to line up after I start pressing it on? Or am I totally focked and I should just do it right the first time?
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:13 PM   #16
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Awesome job! I should look into this.
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:20 PM   #17
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McSpeed,

To remove the OEM damper, besides the special Baum crank pulley removal tools (I'm using a toolset from Koch Tool), is there other special tools required? I'll probably be removing mine to do the snout measurement this weekend.
I understand the ATI damper will require the ATI removal/install tool (which I'll be buying separately along with the groupbuy purchase). Correct?
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:20 PM   #18
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Awesome job! I should look into this.
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:38 PM   #19
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Awesome job! I should look into this.
Should jump on the GB end this Monday.

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Old 12-30-2010, 09:44 PM   #20
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Awesome job! I should look into this.
Should jump on the GB end this Monday.

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