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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 12-30-2010, 10:53 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by AL330CI View Post
McSpeed,

To remove the OEM damper, besides the special Baum crank pulley removal tools (I'm using a toolset from Koch Tool), is there other special tools required? I'll probably be removing mine to do t
Besides the micrometer and damper holder, no. Unless you consider a long pipe to be a special tool.

Assuming you have a manual and don't need the fan clutch wrench.

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Old 12-30-2010, 11:38 PM   #22
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This is a what if. What if I start pressing the damper on and I line up the woodruff key incorrectly? Will it be a total PIA to remove the damper and try again? Can I adjust the damper to line up after I start pressing it on? Or am I totally focked and I should just do it right the first time?
I think it just has to line up well enough the first time - otherwise I'm pretty sure it'll suddenly get REALLY hard to press the damper on (up to the structural limits of the the woodruff key I guess lol). Also, the closer it gets to the woodruff key slot-in point, the harder it'll be to correct the alignment, thanks to the interference fit, IIRC. The antiseize helps a bit though. The press tool makes it easy to back off if you need to; the slot gives you a little fudge room, too- so it shouldn't be too dificult.
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Old 12-31-2010, 01:54 AM   #23
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I think it just has to line up well enough the first time - otherwise I'm pretty sure it'll suddenly get REALLY hard to press the damper on (up to the structural limits of the the woodruff key I guess lol). Also, the closer it gets to the woodruff key slot-in point, the harder it'll be to correct the alignment, thanks to the interference fit, IIRC. The antiseize helps a bit though. The press tool makes it easy to back off if you need to; the slot gives you a little fudge room, too- so it shouldn't be too dificult.
OK, thanks! So it is semi-idiot proof? I might survivie this DIY then. Can't be worse than the clutch.
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Old 12-31-2010, 02:48 AM   #24
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OK, thanks! So it is semi-idiot proof? I might survivie this DIY then. Can't be worse than the clutch.
If you're comfortable doing a DIY clutch install in the snow, this should feel about as easy as making pancakes
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Old 12-31-2010, 03:38 AM   #25
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If you're comfortable doing a DIY clutch install in the snow, this should feel about as easy as making pancakes
Frozen or homemade?
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Old 12-31-2010, 03:43 AM   #26
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Frozen or homemade?
Like from a mix where you add water
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Old 12-31-2010, 05:40 AM   #27
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I messed up stove top stuffing a couple of weeks ago...maybe I should pay to have this done.

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Old 12-31-2010, 01:02 PM   #28
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I messed up stove top stuffing a couple of weeks ago
that could've happened to anyone! try it again with air tools and we'll see
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Old 07-08-2011, 01:33 PM   #29
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Just reread. I have everything to do this except the big torque wrench....
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Old 07-08-2011, 02:19 PM   #30
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Just reread. I have everything to do this except the big torque wrench....
I honestly don't think it's a big deal: I just used a 2 ft long breaker bar on a 22mm impact socket and gave it a good yank.

On the OEM damper, the bolt was a critical part of the damper coupling. On the ATI piece, I honestly think you could leave the bolt off and the engine wouldn't know any better.

Up to you...but I won't be using a torque wrench on this. (I do religiously on pretty much every other bolt on the car though)
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Old 07-08-2011, 02:59 PM   #31
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Even better news.

I should be good to go, then. Just want to dyno the AA tune by itself, first. Woot!

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I honestly don't think it's a big deal: I just used a 2 ft long breaker bar on a 22mm impact socket and gave it a good yank.

On the OEM damper, the bolt was a critical part of the damper coupling. On the ATI piece, I honestly think you could leave the bolt off and the engine wouldn't know any better.

Up to you...but I won't be using a torque wrench on this. (I do religiously on pretty much every other bolt on the car though)
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Old 07-08-2011, 06:17 PM   #32
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Crap. My public admission to messing up stove top is being bumped to the top.

How long should this take an average person to do that has the right tools?
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Old 07-08-2011, 07:46 PM   #33
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Average??? I'm offended!

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Crap. My public admission to messing up stove top is being bumped to the top.

How long should this take an average person to do that has the right tools?
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:19 PM   #34
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Crap. My public admission to messing up stove top is being bumped to the top.

How long should this take an average person to do that has the right tools?
Stove Top takes maybe 15 minutes, no special tools required.
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:38 PM   #35
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Average??? I'm offended!
You're not average and I hope you'll be 2x as fast!

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Stove Top takes maybe 15 minutes, no special tools required.
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Old 07-09-2011, 01:04 AM   #36
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Average??? I'm offended!
Should have it done (Down) pack now
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Old 07-09-2011, 07:45 AM   #37
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Oh, now we're getting personal... wait, what?

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You're not average and I hope you'll be 2x as fast!
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Old 07-10-2011, 11:41 PM   #38
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Awesome write up, thank you.

Quick question, if anyone knows teh answer it'll be very good.

Why does ATI needs to be interference fitted as opposed to OEM which just slides in and out?

I know that -0.001 fit is not that much but why not just make it to slide in and out.

I thought came to my mind, we do alot of interference fits at work (Im a die maker btw) , we freeze whatever needs to be interference fitted and then slide it into whatever it should go into. This way we can fit a 3.0000 shaft into a 2.9985" hole, try doing that with a pulley , lol.

Anyway, you think its safe to freeze the damper ?
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:32 AM   #39
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Awesome write up, thank you.

Quick question, if anyone knows teh answer it'll be very good.

Why does ATI needs to be interference fitted as opposed to OEM which just slides in and out?

I know that -0.001 fit is not that much but why not just make it to slide in and out.

I thought came to my mind, we do alot of interference fits at work (Im a die maker btw) , we freeze whatever needs to be interference fitted and then slide it into whatever it should go into. This way we can fit a 3.0000 shaft into a 2.9985" hole, try doing that with a pulley , lol.

Anyway, you think its safe to freeze the damper ?
If the buna rubber damping material can take it I don't see why not. Maybe doublecheck with ATI first just in case. The superdamper is combination of an aluminum casing and a steel hub if thermal contraction properties matter.

The ATI's interference fit makes it so the damper becomes part of the crank and that directness helps it damp better; the full seating surface of the damper is engaged and there's no slop for the harmonics to hide in.

With the oem damper not being as tight and primarily relying on the bolt for attachment, it can end up just having a solid connection at the very end, so all the damping action gets done through less material. Also, the rest of the hub therefore sees some room for micro-wiggle, which leads to some distortion or wear of the hub, apparently, since everyone seems to say that their OEM damper slides off by hand.

I could be wrong but I don't think the OEM damper extraction tool would exist if the dampers were factory specced to slide off by hand...
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:05 AM   #40
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Interesting thought on the freezing. I've done that with solid aluminum bushings before. Definitely makes it easier.

That being said, I have the install tool to use

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Awesome write up, thank you.

Quick question, if anyone knows teh answer it'll be very good.

Why does ATI needs to be interference fitted as opposed to OEM which just slides in and out?

I know that -0.001 fit is not that much but why not just make it to slide in and out.

I thought came to my mind, we do alot of interference fits at work (Im a die maker btw) , we freeze whatever needs to be interference fitted and then slide it into whatever it should go into. This way we can fit a 3.0000 shaft into a 2.9985" hole, try doing that with a pulley , lol.

Anyway, you think its safe to freeze the damper ?
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