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Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > The Showroom

The Showroom
This is the place to show off your BMW to other members of the community. Post pictures and videos of your car and the modifications you have done to it. If you need a picture of something on a coupe, sedan, convertible or touring you will probably find it here!

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Old 11-07-2012, 10:59 PM   #381
tinkwithanr
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Picked up some more parts for her over the past week.

Euro Turn signals. These sit flush with the fender as opposed to the stock US-spec bits, which stick out pretty far to the side. They aren't brand new, but they will fit the patina of the rest of the trim nicely.






5-Lug Rear hubs and new rear brake rotors. These will round out the rest of the 5-lug swap (pared with the e12 front struts) and the rotors match the vented front ones that came on my struts.






Then I got a box of goodies from IE, including: Front and rear sway bars (2002 front, e30 rear), Posi-lock Camber and toe adjusters, New poly bushings for the front and rear suspension/subframes, and a lower oil pan baffle. These (plus the coilovers) will let me mock up all the suspension parts and make sure everything fits and works together.







I also got some work done on the itb manifold. In this first picture you can see the adapters I turned on the lathe to mate the stock 'i' manifold runners to the throttle bodies. They started as aluminum tubing 1.5" i.d. (~38mm) and 2.0" o.d. This will leave me plenty of material to help merge the ovalish shape of the runners to the circular shape of the throttle bodies. With all 6 made I tacked them in place on the manifold, 91mm apart.









If you look at the above picture, you can see how the 2" o.d. of the adapter is wider than the sides of the runners. In the picture below, you'll see that the inside of the runners are narrower than the i.d. of the adapter. In order to help these transition from one shape to the next I'll weld extra material to the outside of the runners. Then the inside can be ported out to the adapter diameter without worrying about making the walls to thin.






Here you can see the opposite runner with the adapter fully welded on. You can see all of the extra material welded on the sides to help build up the wall thickness. Also don't mind how ugly the welds look. The intake casting is full of contaminants, so no matter how clean the surface is as soon as I start my arc it just bring more crap to the surface. Aggravating to say the least.





Here is a close up of the adapters and the throttle bodies. You can see how the lip on the adapter mirrors the lip on the throttle body. This will let me use the stock rubber boots that BMW used on the bike to seal the intake tubes.





And here is the boot. I ordered 2 new boots (only 1 set of throttle bodies included them) and 6 more hose clamps that fit on each side of the rubber for a complete set. The rubbers have a step on the i.d. that grabs the lip on the throttle bodies and adapters that will help to seal and hold them in place.






Lastly, here you can see how the linkage works. The middle throttle bodies have the standard cable operated rotary linkage, but only one of them will need to be operated in that manner. To 'link' the rest of the throttle bodies to the cable operated one, the 'tabs' on the left sit in between the two adjusters on the right. Because the throttle bodies are 18mm further apart now, I just need to weld gusseted extensions onto the tabs (304 stainless) so that they will function as they used to. This will let me adjust the plate position of each throttle individually with respect to the others, and dial them in properly.






Thanks for looking.
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:50 AM   #382
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:37 PM   #383
tinkwithanr
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I decided to clean up the throttle bodies since they were pretty dirty when I got them. Can you guess which one is which??






5 more throttle later:





Here's a close up of the extensions I welded on the linkage tabs. Works great.






Then I worked on blending the modified intake manifold. This is how it looked when I started:






And after a couple minutes with a die grinder it changed to this:





And here is the same port with my spare gutted throttle body in place. I'm very happy with the overall taper and size, though I still need to fine tune a couple of areas. But I'm going to wait to finish them until I match the manifold to the head, which still needs to be ported as well.






And here they are bolted in place in the engine bay. The nice thing with this setup is it doesn't get in the way of the stock fuel rail, pressure regulator, and thermostat housing. My original S54 setup had some clearance issues:









Then I had to reposition the dipstick tube. If you look at the above pictures, you can see the stock position puts it right between the first and second cylinder ports. With my plans for a plenum this would definitely get in the way. Luckily my largest bead roller die was the perfect diameter to the dipstick tube, so I was able to avoid pinching the tube at the bends. After a few carefully placed bends this is what I ended up with.




This new position should sit right between the intake plenum and the upper radiator hose.






Thanks for looking!
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:44 AM   #384
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Old 11-10-2012, 02:13 AM   #385
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I was just going to bring up the dipstick, but then the next picture you fixed it! You're a friggin genius. I wish I had the time, effort and money to do a project of this magnitude. Keep up the good work!
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:19 PM   #386
tinkwithanr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serdar255 View Post
awesome
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418 View Post
I was just going to bring up the dipstick, but then the next picture you fixed it! You're a friggin genius. I wish I had the time, effort and money to do a project of this magnitude. Keep up the good work!
Yeah lol, I put the throttle bodies in place and went to take a pictures and the dipstick kept getting in the foreground. It annoyed me enough that I decided to fix it right then and there.
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:27 PM   #387
tinkwithanr
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Small update from today. Didn't have a lot of time to put into her but I managed to get the steering linkage figured out. I only have pictures of the 'finished' product (I use that term loosely), but I basically just took the stock E30 linkage from my parts car and shorted all the sections of it so that the universal joints were closer together. Then I shortened the stock steering column.







I also needed to notch the firewall a bit so that the angle between the sections was small enough that the universal joints wouldn't bind. The lower one was fine, but the upper joint was very close.






I also need to add another support bearing to the middle section of the linkage. In the stock setup, the steering column didn't have any universal joints, it just ran straight to the steering box. Because of that the stock '02 steering column only has one point of support for the shaft itself. But now with the extra joint in the linkage the shaft has a bit of play, which the extra support bearing will take care of.
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Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:44 PM   #388
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Quick Teaser:


This mod is not for the faint of heart.



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Old 11-12-2012, 09:24 PM   #389
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Old 11-16-2012, 03:18 PM   #390
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So as I alluded to earlier, I decided to deleted the stock pedal assembly and replace it with a Tilton floor mount assembly. There were a number of reasons I decided to do this. First, the itb setup meant that the stock brake booster wouldn't fit anymore. Likewise, with the G260 trans in place, the stock throttle linkage would be very close to the outer bell housing. By switching to the Tilton setup I am able to avoid those issues.

The pedals in question are are Tilton 72-603, which is a three pedal assembly. The brake pedal uses a balance bar, which lets you adjust the bias front to rear from the driver seat (with the optional cable adjuster). It also keeps the front and rear brakes on separate master cylinders, so if one of the circuits ended up getting damaged I will still have brakes to help bring the car to a stop.




If you look at the above picture, you'll notice that the pedal pads are also adjustable. There are 4 vertical positions and three horizontal, for a total of 12 per pedal. I am also thinking of machining a new gas pedal pad to help with heel-toe driving. I'll wait until I can try it out before going down that road though.






In the next picture you can see the throttle linkage assembly. The linkage, like the rest of the pedal assembly, is completely adjustable. This will allow me to dial in the throttle plate position relative to the gas pedal, avoiding a laggy or on-off feeling.






Of course the new pedal assembly isn't without it's issues. Mainly the fact that the driver side frame rail goes right through the same area, so it needs to be cut out and rerouted. Also the clutch master cylinder is much further off to the right than the old setup, so much so that it sticks into the driver side footwell. If it end up interfering with the steering at full lock I'll need to make up a simple linkage that moves the clutch master cylinder up and over, away from the wheel/tire. I'll wait to make that decision until the front suspension is back in though.



Here is the pedal assembly bolted in place:






Here you can see clutch cylinder, it sticks into the wheel well an inch or so.






And here you can see how much of the frame rail/firewall needed to be trimmed out. The frame rail will be remade with 1/8" or 3/16" steel boxed and welded flush much like the motor mounts, but out of the way of the brake and clutch cylinders.






I also picked up a new tool to help strip the old tar and POR-15 off the floor boards so I can make sure they are clean and rust free.





And the progress after ~15 seconds of grinding:





Then I got the steering column support bearing tacked in place. Ironically it fit in the stock location of the old column mount, it just needed to be angle downward slightly.










Then I took a break from work and took a few pictures with my other '02. Once I get Fiona finished I want to paint this one as a 'mini-me' and it in her glovebox or center console area lol.












Thanks for looking!
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Tinker Engineering - 2014

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all
Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep
Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history
Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:48 PM   #391
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Next up was to adapt my throttle cable to the pedal assembly. The throttle cable in question is a Lokar Stainless Steel bit. It's 4ft long, but can also be cut to length, so I just bought one that I knew would be a bit to long.






Here is the stock end of the throttle cable. Unfortunately the opening in the cable adapter is 3/16", and the pedal linkage is 1/4" wide. Also, the 'throat' of the adapter is very shallow, and so even if I widened it, it wouldn't allow the linkage to move through it's entire range of motion without binding.






And here is the end of the cable. It's got a crimped on bulb, so I can just slip off the old fitting and replace it with one that will work with the Tilton linkage.





So I started with a 0.75" rod of 304 stainless:






And 1 hour later ended up with this:





It's 1.5" long and turned down to 9/16 diameter. Then I machined 1/8" hole all the way through, followed by tapping it 1/4-28 thread 1" deep ending in a 3/16" diameter chamfer to match up with the bulb of the cable. It also has two flat spots milled onto it so it can be held with a 7/16" wrench.

Threaded end:






To install it first slide the cable through the end and sit the bulb at the bottom of the threaded section:







Then screw the heim joint into the threaded end and tighten the jam nut.






Lastly install the assembly onto the Tilton linkage.





With this end of the cable sorted out I just need to mount the outer shielding on the firewall and figure out the throttle body end of the cable.
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Tinker Engineering - 2014

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all
Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep
Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history
Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:25 PM   #392
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Had a busy Black Friday. Here's a small teaser of the payload.




Ti Lug Studs and Nuts. Cause nobody likes rusty nuts.
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Tinker Engineering - 2014

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all
Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep
Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history
Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:26 PM   #393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinkwithanr View Post
Had a busy Black Friday. Here's a small teaser of the payload.




Ti Lug Studs and Nuts. Cause nobody likes rusty nuts.
link please!
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:41 PM   #394
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Looking good!
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sometimes i'm into it and my one hand gets tired, i try switching, but then it's like someone with lou gehrig's trying to peel a carrot.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:10 PM   #395
tinkwithanr
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link please!
I bought them off a private seller on 2002faq. Not sure if he machined them or bought them from elsewhere. The quality is great though.

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Looking good!
Thanks!
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:21 PM   #396
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I love this thread so much!
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:33 PM   #397
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Here's the rest of what I picked up over the weekend.

New assortment of sockets. I've been using my old craftsman "121" piece set for the past 4 years, and finally decided it was time to upgrade. The main difference is a greater range of socket sizes for each drive size, as well as a whole lot more deep well sockets. The old set only had 1/4 and 3/8 drive DW, and only 10 total. This set has pretty much everything from 4-22mm in DW, 12 and 6 point. It also came with standard and metric ratcheting wrenches. Half off as well!





Next up I got the inserts for the front suspension. Koni 8611-1259 double adjustable's. I'm still working on getting the compression adjustment mods figured out on the strut itself, but it should do the job nicely. It also leaves plenty of room in the strut housing to shorten it.





Then I sorted out the rear suspension. I decided to go with QA1 Double Adjustable shocks with Eibach Springs. These have urethane bushings in each end, but if that ends up deflecting to much I can change them out for spherical bits easily.





They are also very easy to adjust, just reach under the car and turn the knobs.






Then I got all my AN fittings and hose for the fuel system and oil system, as well as the necessary wrenches to put them together. I still need to get the hard lines for the long runs under the car, but I should be able to get the engine bay lines run.





More fuel system goodies including a billet fuel rail, fuel filter and adjustable regulator:







Last but not least the new set of wheels came in. I already split them before I remembered to grab a couple of pictures, but they are Epsilon Meshes. Once I rebuild them to the right specs they should be 16x8 front and 16x9 rear with gold centers and polished lips. Kinda like a poor mans BBS E50.

Centers:





Lips:





For those that haven't seen them in good condition this is what they will look like when done:




Happy Holidays!
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Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:25 PM   #398
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OHHHHHH MYYYYYYY GODDDDDDD!!!! You sir are evil!
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:39 PM   #399
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:42 PM   #400
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You forgot this.....

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