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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 12-22-2010, 09:34 PM   #21
vander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cideways View Post
xi_ter and all,
Car runs really well when it's running, but I think that the computer is compensating for a too lean or rich condition.

-Pat
You can also try cleaning your MAF sensor as this is a really simple and cheap thing to do that can sometimes clear up engine misfires. As I understand it, a clean MAF will ensure the engine is delivering the correct fuel to air mixture in your engine.
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Old 12-23-2010, 12:51 AM   #22
xi_ter
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Thanks for the information. I did try the procedure just as explained the first time with a cold engine (not driven in a day cold) and did not get much Seafoam in the line, nor did I get the white smoke. So letting it sit over night, I thought I would try again. After reading another post here, DMAX mentioned a clogged hose. So I removed the hose to check for any blockages or holes. When I removed it, liquid spilled out, but the hose was in good shape and not blocked. I put it back on and filled the tube with Seafoam. I started the car and I wish I had a picture of the white smoke that came out of the tail pipe -- it was unbelievable. I let is idle for about 10 minutes and the smoke eventually cleared. Then I went for a drive. Drove perfect for about half mile and started misfiring again.

I think that I will try this again tomorrow and also listen for the whining pump sound on cold start. ...
Congrats on the huge burnoff. I'd guess that the Seafoam needed to unblock the valve first. The second time, the SAP was able to blow Seafoam into the exhaust ports/ channels and burn off the carbon. It also says your SAP is working. 10 minutes of white smoke is a long burnoff, you'll have to use a few cans of Seafoam and allow time for the Seafoam to soak in before starting the car.
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Old 12-23-2010, 08:56 AM   #23
vander
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10 minutes of white smoke is a long burnoff
10 minutes isn't that long really, when I did mine there was smoke for a good 20 minutes at least
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Old 01-11-2011, 12:10 PM   #24
Cideways
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Oh and you should really look into finding a good trustworthy mechanic as you will pay a fortune at the dealer
Just wanted to close out my issue in case it may help someone else in future. I took Vander's suggestion above and after searching my regional area (mid-Atlantic) in this forum I found recommendations for RRT racing. I dropped off the car on Sunday night, picked it up Monday at noon and it's running like new. Bad #2 coil (misfire on #2, changed coil to #1 position and misfire followed coil)

Local dealer: $5,200 (rebuild the motor, then offered me $1,000 for the car when I said I couldn't afford that).
Total final repair cost: under $250.
"Finding a good trustworthy mechanic": priceless!

Thanks RRT, Vander and others for your advice...
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:36 PM   #25
bli1348
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HELP! Being a noob on diy, I am having difficulty in unplugging the hose from the pump!! I loosened the clamp, but couldn't move the hose an inch. Any tips in getting it off?
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Old 01-12-2011, 04:01 PM   #26
Cideways
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^ I would spray some PB blaster and or WD40 - just enough to get between the hose and plastic and clean it off once you get them apart. Maybe try to lightly pry with a flat head screw driver. It may take a while, as mine was difficult also. Just don't force it or you could break the plastic on the SAP.
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:26 PM   #27
Mc 007
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Originally Posted by xi_ter View Post
Great DIY for a non-working secondary air pump. Under the CPO warranty I had my Secondary Air pump replaced, but continued to throw CEL codes due to low secondary air flow.
If the pump is working, and making the leaf blower sound for 2 minutes after a cold start, use the secondary air pump to blow Seafoam into the exhaust ports and valves. This will clear the secondary air passages enough in the engine to allow the second O2 sensor to detect a higher secondary air flow.

The 540i engine is even more prone to the problem, but here's the general idea of what happens:
Photobucket

The carbon burn off using Seafoam on the secondary air system is huge and has kept the CEL off since I first started this cleaning.
Since the Seafoam can only be blown into the ports while the engine is cold this DIY must be performed as you first start the car in the morning.

Step 1: Remove the clamp from the hose between the secondary air pump and the valve to the engine



Step 2: Pour Seafoam into the hose. The hose will hold just over an ounce of Seafoam.



Step 3: Reconnect the hose and run the car 5 seconds so the air pump blows the Seafoam into the exhaust port.
Repeat this fill and restart 3 more times only running the engine 5 seconds so the secondary air pump runs for the 3 fills.



Then let the engine sit 15 minutes and warm up the car. There will be significant amounts of Seafoam carbon burnoff in the form of white smoke. The carbon burnoff will clean exhaust areas in the path to the O2 sensors that measure secondary air flow.
this solvents are ok for this work?
http://www.automagic.biz/solvents.htm
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:55 PM   #28
Pimpwerx
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How much of a vacuum should there be on the hose going from the back of the engine to the valve? I want to see if my valve is broken or not, but I get a very weak vacuum on that line. I've changed all the hose all the way up to the little pump on the back of the engine using regular vacuum hose from Autozone. I can't get that pump off the back of the manifold to inspect it. Any thoughts? I'd rather not have to buy a valve. The pump works just fine. PEACE.
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:44 PM   #29
Little Dragon
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Going to be taking a look at my SAP this weekend. CEL throwing the codes.
Hopefully just have to replace a hose or something simple.
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Old 05-17-2011, 11:59 AM   #30
bli1348
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HELP! P0491 P0492 still! 200 mile after clearing the codes, replacing secondary pump/valve.... The indyshop lied to me that they can do diagnostics on SES and fix it, and now they said they don't know why computer still shows the codes after replacing...
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Old 07-13-2011, 03:51 PM   #31
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So, why don't more people delete the sap? Does it truly act just like an EGR setup? On my old 3000GT, I removed the EGR and saw mpg go up. You also have a much cleaner intake tract. I know you would throw a ses light, but still. Just curious.
Sweet, I might try it. To disable it would I just unplug it then? Or is there some process to go through?
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Old 10-03-2011, 12:06 PM   #32
Admit1
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Interesting, instead of suction coming from the check valve I have air being pushed back at me. I also don't have air being driven by my pump, so I am then assuming that the check valve is stuck open and then drove exhaust into my air pump therefore ruining my pump... sounds right...?
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:38 AM   #33
Mc 007
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is possible to clean the valve with a spray made for cleaning intake manifolds?
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Old 12-04-2011, 03:50 PM   #34
philyphill112
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Anyone know where I can get the Check valve and the hoses other than the Steelership?
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Old 01-12-2012, 12:18 PM   #35
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You could try ECS Tuning, BavAuto.com, AutoHausAZ, or Pelican Parts. Those are the 4 places I use to buy replacement BMW parts.
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Lowering my car's resale value one track day at a time...
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Old 04-29-2012, 09:38 PM   #36
Terran6
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Hello, I have a 2003 325i, my valve doesn't have a vacuum hose that opens it, I guess it's from the newer versions. I did the sea foam cleaning. I filled up the hose a the night before, in the morning just added more to it. It did a good 10-15 mins burnout. I guess the valve is fine, because held all of the fluid before i started for a night then the engine burned out. My pump is working too. Well, when I start the car the pump works for not more than 15 seconds, don't know if that's normal. What would you suggest to do? Thank you!
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Old 04-29-2012, 11:06 PM   #37
ryannel2003
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Thanks for the DIY! I noticed the other day while checking under the hood that the hose that connects the air pump to the check valve had a huge hole in it. I also noticed, like you, some dumbass broke off the plastic connectors causing my air pump to wiggle around as well. It's fine for now, but I have order a new hose. The dealership wanted $46 for one!!
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:50 AM   #38
skhalifeh
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IF this valve little hose is missing does it generate a check engine light?
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:53 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostedef1 View Post
Thanks I really needed this. Question Where does the little hose on the valve go to ? Its missing on mine

Is you Check engine light on?
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:36 PM   #40
knsaber
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Thank you guys for the write up, I was able to fix my code error 2 days before my inspection sticker expired and I just passed!

These were the steps I took:

1. Use Seafoam to clean the system, clear codes, but error code for Secondary Air came back.

2. Followed Bavuato's inspection instructions here http://www.bavauto.com/newsletter/20...newsletter.pdf and figured out the air pump was faulty but the valve still worked. I didn't feel like spending another $100+ on the valve so I just ordered a new SAP, hose and mounts. The rubber mountings were broken so I assume the vibration is what caused the pump to fail, as I could hear parts rattle inside when I shook it.

It's easy to take the assembly out (which I found out after taking everything apart). Just unbolt the three hex screws found in the back of this photo, you don't need to touch the screw in the foreground. It doesn't even require nuts to tighten so all you need is an extended ratchet head.



After swapping out the SAP and resetting the OBDII, this article was immensely helpful in resetting the drive cycle so all monitors would be ready for inspection. http://www.europeantransmissions.com...0Procedure.pdf

The only monitor that said Not Ready during inspection was the Evap system, but I still passed!
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