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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 05-26-2015, 10:12 PM   #1
ccericks
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Council Bluffs IA
Posts: 2
My Ride: 2002 325i 5 speed ma
help with rough idle, sluggish acceleration, misfire

I'm new to this forum but I've found such great advice here in the past that I needed to post some questions. I have a 2002 325i and about 2 weeks ago, upon start up, there was a very rough, cough, idle and sluggish acceleration. Felt like a vacuum leak or coil misfire. I looked under the hood and did find a bunch of holes and cracks in the lower intake boot, especially around the smaller diameter tube that goes into the engine. Replaced this lower boot and was hoping that would completely fix the problem. It fixed about 80% of the problem, but my check engine light remains. Codes read P0313 - misfire, P1619 - cooling system (thermostat), and P0102 - MAF, vacuum leak.
The symptoms that remain are a slightly rough idle. It is consistent and steady, very rhythmical. It doesn't sputter and die like I've read on some other posts. The acceleration is still sluggish, but not nearly as much as before, and only seems to be sluggish up to about 3000 RPM, after 3000 RPM it feels like it pulls better.
I should also mention that the car uses oil, so that I have to add at least 4-5 quarts between 3000-4000 mile oil changes
I've watched videos and read multiple posts. Where should I go next? I would like some direction rather than just pulling things out and guessing. DISA valve, CCV, ICV, thermostat, MAF????
Thank you for reading.
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Old 05-27-2015, 02:06 AM   #2
BiH55
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: DSm, IA
Posts: 32
My Ride: 2001 bmw 325i
your pcv crankcase vent valve might be bad or one of the hoses cracked
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Old 05-27-2015, 06:23 AM   #3
jfoj
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fairfax, VA USA
Posts: 14,503
My Ride: 330CiC, M5, X5
So there are a number of things that can cause problems.

Here is a summary of all things that covers all issues expect the P0102 which could be a bad MAF, loose female terminals in the MAF connector or even a broken wire inside the wiring harness between the MAF and the wiring box near the throttle body.

Based on you statements, I would be removing the DISA and inspecting it, but purchase a replacement O-ring before you do this from German Auto Solutions.

Thermostat needs to be replaced, but this is not the cause of the misfiring or sluggish acceleration.

Here is a bunch of info you need to read -

Get an OBDII smart phone/tablet App and interface, typically $30 or less.

Android - Touch Scan for $3.95 and ELM327 OBDII to Bluetooth interface.

iProduct - OBD Fusion for $9.95 and ELM327 OBDII to Wifi interface.

Read the 2 links below:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Need to see Freeze Frame info if the SES/CEL/MIL is on and Fuel Trim values at both warm idle and a steady highway cruise between 45-60 MPH.

Note, there may or may not be Lean Codes showing up. Lean Codes usually trigger at around 10% Fuel Trim values or higher. Keep in mind that sometimes these engines can have a Lean condition that does not or only intermittently triggers Lean Codes. This is why monitoring the Fuel Trims in real time is important. Ideal Fuel Trim values are typically in the 0% to +2.5/+3.0% range.

Read this thread - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1057387

Make ABSOLUTELY sure the O2 sensor wiring has not been mixed up, read these links:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...0&postcount=27

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...0&postcount=26

Read my "BMW 20 Questions" comments in this thread - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1059972

Check for or be aware of cracked valve covers and bad valve cover gaskets:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1021219

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...e=2&highlight=

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1053359

This information ASSUMES that spark plugs have been checked/replaced. If they have not been inspected, you also need to check for oil filled spark plug wells due to a leaking/cracked valve cover gasket.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...2&postcount=11

Search YouTube for Scotty Smoke Test. Do what Scotty does or build a tester from related video. Remove the oil fill cap and make sure the crankcase fills up with smoke, put the oil fill cap back on and check for leaks around the valve cover, oil fill cap, dipstick tube and CCV hoses. Cracked valve covers are pretty common on the E46 as it ages.

Note that the Scotty Smoke Test method is not so good for smaller air/vacuum leaks or fully filling the engine crankcase, for this you really need a smoke machine that can provide a solid and continuous low pressure smoke stream. So plan on building a smoke tester of you thing you will use if more than once or may have smaller and harder to find leaks.
__________________
Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:15 AM   #4
ccericks
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Council Bluffs IA
Posts: 2
My Ride: 2002 325i 5 speed ma
Thank you very much for all of the additional posts and information. I will start going through the list and checking things off one at a time. I did unplug the MAF while the car was running and didn't notice any change in the engine, but when I plugged it back in there was a quick slow down or lag in RPM's and then right back to it's normal rough idle. Is this normal when plugging in the MAF? Also, I notice the lack of power and sluggish acceleration definitely more in the lower RPM range or when slowly going up my driveway. Almost kind of chug-chug up the driveway. I've also noticed the last couple days, that it takes just a fraction longer of cranking the key in the morning to get it started. Fuel pump or fuel filter??
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:54 AM   #5
jfoj
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fairfax, VA USA
Posts: 14,503
My Ride: 330CiC, M5, X5
Plugging the MAF back in will cause the engine to drop in RPM briefly, this is normal.

Extended morning cranking can be a few things.

1. Low battery, low cranking Voltage.
2. Fuel pump residual pressure and priming issues.
3. Crank or intake cam sensor

I would follow them in the order above.

There is not an E46 on the road that could not benefit from a new fuel pump and filter IHMO.
__________________
Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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