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Old 04-22-2011, 04:20 PM   #81
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That's a helluva write-up.
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:47 PM   #82
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It could be that for a period of time before the four wire switch was introduced that one of the three wire switches was meant to signal the ECU and the other to signal the EWS, independently.
Apparently so. My car having an M56 engine with MS45.1 DME just adds to the comfusion.

I took the violet and brown wires from my "clutch pedal fully depressed" switch and wired them with power & ground and then connected the blue to the EWS.

Car started right up

My MS45.1 DME pinout shows pin 23 as unused, hopefully just because the M56 never came with a manual transmission. I'll hook the other switches output to pin 23 and hope the cruise control will work...
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Old 04-28-2011, 12:01 AM   #83
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Apparently so. My car having an M56 engine with MS45.1 DME just adds to the comfusion.

I took the violet and brown wires from my "clutch pedal fully depressed" switch and wired them with power & ground and then connected the blue to the EWS.

Car started right up

My MS45.1 DME pinout shows pin 23 as unused, hopefully just because the M56 never came with a manual transmission. I'll hook the other switches output to pin 23 and hope the cruise control will work...
Keep me posted on how that works. I'm curious.
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:43 PM   #84
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Took test drive this evening, without connecting clutch switch to DME. Drove fine, no unexpected problems. Cruise control works, just doesn't disengage when clutch pedal is depressed.

Not sure if I'm going to like the 3.46 ring&pinion. On surface streets it's great, 3000rpm at 60mph could get tiring.
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Old 04-29-2011, 12:26 AM   #85
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Took test drive this evening, without connecting clutch switch to DME. Drove fine, no unexpected problems. Cruise control works, just doesn't disengage when clutch pedal is depressed.

Not sure if I'm going to like the 3.46 ring&pinion. On surface streets it's great, 3000rpm at 60mph could get tiring.
Good work!

My stock diff is a 3.38. It's not far from the 3.46. I turn about 2300 RPM at 60 MPH. I'm thinking that the 3.15 would be nice. One thing for sure, off the line you're going to be quick.

Watch the cruise control. If you're going up hill and depress the clutch you may red-line the motor.

I don't know if you've seen this before... http://www.bokchoys.com/differential...calculator.htm It's a link to a gear ratio calculator for the E46's. Nice resource.
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Old 05-30-2011, 09:48 AM   #86
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Ok - Did you reprogram yourself or did you have someone do it for you? Regardless I am glad to hear that the mirror dip feature is working again. Eventually I'll get the programming all sorted out.

I've pulled feature option 205 (automatic transmission) from the KOMBI only to find that DIS didn't believe the VO (vehicle order number) was changed so the rest of the modules would not program correctly. Now I'm trying to configure and learn NCS Expert.

Unfortunately there is a world of difference between pre-2001/09 build date cars and post 2001/09. The previous DIY's for programming were pre 2001/09 which meant they had direct access to the SA number, which the rest of the modules see as a change so they will reprogram accordingly. Post 2001/09 cars have a VO and you can't directly change the VO from what I've found, which makes all of this a little more challenging because the rest of the modules don't think a thing has changed without the VO changing.
Hello - I have read through your excellent post a few times and have some questions. My car is a 323i Touring - build year 6/2000 (ZF Step Transmission).

1. Could you elaborate on the world of difference between the pre 2001/09 cars and the post 2001/09 cars - is the difference in the programming, wiring, etc..?

2. Do you leave the TCU installed in the car with the connectors still plugged into the TCU?

3. It appears like you left the Auto Trans wiring harness in place and made necessary connections to the ECU connectors. I am wondering if it would be practical to use an engine harness from a manual transmission donor car and then remove the auto transmission harness - did you consider this approach?

4. I have performed all kinds of engine, transmission and differential swaps with BMW's - but all have been e30's and E36's - these E46's are electronic wonders (nightmares). Did you have a hard time finding a dealership that would reprogram your ECU? This actually is my biggest fear with this whole project.

Thanks so much for your replies - I am sure I will have more questions as I start to collect my parts and do all my homework.
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Old 05-30-2011, 01:51 PM   #87
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Hello - I have read through your excellent post a few times and have some questions. My car is a 323i Touring - build year 6/2000 (ZF Step Transmission).

1. Could you elaborate on the world of difference between the pre 2001/09 cars and the post 2001/09 cars - is the difference in the programming, wiring, etc..?
You have the ZF which is different from Neils writeup in that he had a GM transmission. With a GM there are some "short-cuts" you can take when wiring. You don't have that option with the ZF conversions. You need to wire it correctly from the start or you won't be able to start the car. The model year difference is in the programming of the system. Pre model year 09/2001 uses the SA code which you enter and then all the features change with the SA code. On post model year 09/2001 cars they use the VO or vehicle order.

The difference is that with the SA code you have to obtain the current SA code from the cluster, remove the feature and load the new SA code into the cluster and the light control module. Then when you reference all of the other modules that need to be re-coded (DSC, body electronics, etc.) they align with the new SA code.

It's simliar with post 09/2001 cars, maybe a little easier because you're presented with a menu of features in the software and you just remove or add what you want by feature code. Theoretically you reference the other modules the same way as with the SA code, only in my experience the other modules don't perceive any change to the VO code so I'm having to dig a lot deeper into this.

I've got the transmission warning cog out (feature 205 removed), the cruise control still works, but I have a check engine light on, which is related to a bus fault with TCU.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikerob97
2. Do you leave the TCU installed in the car with the connectors still plugged into the TCU?
That isn't my first choice but until I get this sorted out correctly, I can't code the DSC module against the new VO with the TCU removed, so for now it's still in place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikerob97
3. It appears like you left the Auto Trans wiring harness in place and made necessary connections to the ECU connectors. I am wondering if it would be practical to use an engine harness from a manual transmission donor car and then remove the auto transmission harness - did you consider this approach?
I believe that would be substantially more work than you would gain benefit from. You're only adding one wire to the ECU wiring, and two wires from the reverse light switch, which aren't involved in the ECU wiring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikerob97
4. I have performed all kinds of engine, transmission and differential swaps with BMW's - but all have been e30's and E36's - these E46's are electronic wonders (nightmares). Did you have a hard time finding a dealership that would reprogram your ECU? This actually is my biggest fear with this whole project.

Thanks so much for your replies - I am sure I will have more questions as I start to collect my parts and do all my homework.
I have located independent shops that could recode this for me but they havn't done it before and can't insure that it would work any better than what I've done. So I'll continue to flog away at this.

I don't think you're going to have too much difficulty with this because others have successfully recoded their cars with pre 09/2001 ECU's. I think the unique circumstances I'm running into are because of the post 09/2001 ECU. I've run diagnostics that indicate there are other issues I'm dealing with that apparently aren't a problem with the pre 09/2001 cars.
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Old 06-19-2011, 06:30 PM   #88
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Wow this thread is fantastic! Regarding 5spd to 6spd conversion, is it a straight forward swap or will I need to recode to allow for the 6th gear?
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Old 06-19-2011, 06:56 PM   #89
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If you have a manual 5spd already there would be no need to recode anything in the car. That would be the easiest swap of all!

Be aware that you would need a different flywheel clutch combination because the pilot bearing on a 6spd is located in the flywheel, not in the output shaft of the motor.

Thanks BTW.
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:57 PM   #90
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and the 6spd drivershaft (and possibly a different input shaft on diff)
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:07 PM   #91
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I was aware of the pilot bearing. I plan to go the UUC route as well. So all I have to do is wait to gather the necessary funds and go to town Thanks for the quick reply guys.

Stu, can't wait to see your ZHP wagon at Bimmerfest!!
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:22 PM   #92
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say no to uuc
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:45 PM   #93
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Then besides OEM which flywheel would you suggest?
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:49 PM   #94
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i have heard of three local to DC folks that went with UUC and in each case the clutch failed causing MUCH damage to other components

I have clutchmasters in one car and south bend clutches custom clutch in the other car - but, unless you are putting out a lot more power - go with stock oem - you wont regret it

and most important - DO NOT USE LIGHTWEIGHT FLYWHEEL on daily driven car - it makes the trans rattle so loud (even with the mix of trans fluids) - it is embarrassing to know everyone around you can hear that LOUD rattle
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Old 06-19-2011, 10:47 PM   #95
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i have heard of three local to DC folks that went with UUC and in each case the clutch failed causing MUCH damage to other components

I have clutchmasters in one car and south bend clutches custom clutch in the other car - but, unless you are putting out a lot more power - go with stock oem - you wont regret it

and most important - DO NOT USE LIGHTWEIGHT FLYWHEEL on daily driven car - it makes the trans rattle so loud (even with the mix of trans fluids) - it is embarrassing to know everyone around you can hear that LOUD rattle
Stu,

RRT mentioned that they preffer JB racing flywheels but mentioned that if you do choose UUC to use an OEM/SACHS clutch disk not UUC's. A single mass flywheel between 21 and 25 pounds would be ideal for a daily driven car. Just to get rid of the dual mass system. What are your thoughts on that?

Also, instead of wiring the EWS module you can simply code it out of the Module through NCS expert in less then 5 minutes and without worrying about anything.

set

PARK/NEUTRAL_EINGANG
aktiv
nicht_aktiv

to nicht_aktiv in the EWS module.

I can start my car without pressing in the clutch now. I've found that line of code also works on e36's.



If you look at the diagram below and look at part number 12 (clutch switch)

There are two of those on my car (before they had the bottom clutch switch integrated into the clutch master cylinder)

I drove around without the top clutch switch and found that the engine wouldn't rev down fast enough when upshifting and had way less power and took more to get it to move.

Since our engines are DBW the DME uses that switch to know when to close the throttle plate abruptly for an upshift and also to change cam shaft timing for fuel savings while idle.

I also noticed the engine revs up quicker if you double clutch and hit the accelerator right when the top switch is activated. Where as I've found that if I don't double clutch the engine is more lethargic and I have to give it more gas. I hate DBW sometimes.

Interesting to see you guys haven't noticed the above or you may have just wired the car to (top switch is always depressed) but then your cruise control won't turn off when pressing in the clutch.

Hmmm, I shall change my DME to an automatic trans car to see what it does.
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Old 06-19-2011, 10:57 PM   #96
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i love the free'r revving of the ltwt - but the rattle is too much to deal with

i am looking forward to re-installing the dual-mass wheel when this clutch goes out
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Old 06-19-2011, 11:04 PM   #97
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i love the free'r revving of the ltwt - but the rattle is too much to deal with

i am looking forward to re-installing the dual-mass wheel when this clutch goes out
Can I help?
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Old 06-20-2011, 12:52 AM   #98
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i love the free'r revving of the ltwt - but the rattle is too much to deal with

i am looking forward to re-installing the dual-mass wheel when this clutch goes out
You're not the only one. While the immediate spin-up is nice there is a negative that I really hate, the fact that when you place it in 1st gear to pull away you have to conciously bump the rpms up or you'll kill the motor because there ins't enough inertia in the flywheel to start to move the car, at all. It will almost always die. DMF's aren't that touchy, there's a little forgiveness there.

Oh, and the rattle, don't get me started on the coffee can sitting on my motor that sounds like about 50 bolts covered in oil, jiggling around...
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Old 06-20-2011, 01:39 AM   #99
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and try to look like you know how to drive a clutch when you switch back and forth between the two types...
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:05 AM   #100
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Solid tips guys. So stay with the DMF from a M54B30. What are your thoughts on a SMF weighing about 20lbs?

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