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Old 03-20-2012, 08:17 AM   #161
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Great write up. Could anyone sum up to how much $ can that run you? I currently have auto @ 65k and am wondering, if i see it starts going out, would an auto-manual swap be cheaper than new auto tranny? Thanks.
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:44 PM   #162
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Interesting thread! i've carried out the same conversion last year on my 2003 330ci after the auto box failed!

i have had the same issues with programming and still need to finish it off correctly, although no lights showing and everything works except cruise cut off! only used progman (genuine) so far, need to have another night on it after seeing your results!

To get my reverse mirror tilt function to work i needed to add an additional wire, from connector X428(above fuse box) to PIN 7 of X11176 on the KOMBI, the description for PIN 7 is Reverse, manual transmission, shift to +.

with the KOMBI correctly programmed to manual this allows it to send a signal via K-BUS from what i could work out to operate the mirror tilt, also my PDC started working when i did this! hope this helps!!

btw X428 has several outputs already going to rear view mirrors/boot lights etc but on my car it had 2 spare outputs which allowed me to use a terminal crimped onto the new cable to fed to pin 7 of the KOMBI

btw my car is RHD as i'm across the pond in the UK.
This is the one last piece that is the holy grail of automatic to manual conversions, the one thing that almost no one seemed to get working... Until now!!! I can confirm without question that this is the solution for mirror dip on auto->manual conversions. Pin 7 of connector X11176 on the instrument cluster needs to be connected to X428, the Blue/Yellow wire buss connection above the fuse block in the glove box. After tracing all the wiring in the WDS, I ran test wires today to make certain the connection worked. I'll order all the right parts and the correct wire before I permanently wire this in but IT WORKS!!!

I'll post the parts list once I have the connectors and wire.
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:17 PM   #163
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Glad it worked out! still hoping to finish the programming on mine sometime in the near future!
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:19 PM   #164
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Wow, great info! Thanks, guys!
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:52 PM   #165
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BTW, if I am reading this correctly: http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/svg...7162.svg?m=e46
you need to wire one of the pin of the reverse light switch to pin 3 of connector X6021 and another one to 12V. No?
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:49 PM   #166
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The manual transmission cars out of the factory had the reverse switch connected directly to X6021-pin 3. The automatic on the other hand has a relay socket X6325-pin 2, connected to X6021-pin 3. It really is very clean and easy to just connect both wires from the reverse switch on the tranny into the relay socket in the ECU box. You are still connecting to X6021-pin 3 but without much trouble or splicing

The fourth picture down in this link is a visual of the connection, followed by an explanation of what is being done. It works perfectly.

As for getting the reverse mirror dip to work, you must run a wire from X11176-pin 7 (instrument cluster) to the buss block X428 in the fuse area. For reference X428 is connected to X6021-pin 3 and X6325-pin 2 (the relay socket).
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:05 AM   #167
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I see. So, you are saying that in auto cars that X11176-pin 7 is not already connected to the X428? I just can't find the diagram that shows this fact, according the diagram (http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/svg...7162.svg?m=e46) it is already connected.... What am I missing?
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:40 AM   #168
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Yes, in a nutshell.

Pull your cluster (battery disconnected to be safe). It's super easy. Only two T15 screws up on a lip extending at the top of the cluster. Pull the cluster out, pull the two connectors off. On the left connector (white) pull the black 18-pin terminal out of the white shell and trace pin-7. My bet is that pin-7 is not populated. Most likely, since you don't have PDC either you'll only see 4 wires in X11176.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:21 AM   #169
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Will do!
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Old 04-12-2012, 12:49 PM   #170
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I see. So, you are saying that in auto cars that X11176-pin 7 is not already connected to the X428? I just can't find the diagram that shows this fact, according the diagram (http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/svg...7162.svg?m=e46) it is already connected.... What am I missing?
it's a little confusing that wiring diagram as it does show that link between X428 and X11176-pin 7, but it also shows the supply can come from both the auto reverse relay and manual reverse switch.
Which is why i checked the pin out descriptions for X11176 and pin -7 is described as Reverse, manual transmission, shift to +.

as TitaniumCranium said its a nice quick job to pop the cluster out to check out pin-7.
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:46 PM   #171
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Greetings! I have a 2001 325Ci and this is my first post. I'm grateful that I found this thread. I drove my car 1,300 miles to my brother's BMW repair shop in Phoenix to do this swap. Message me if you want information about his shop in Phoenix, and I'd be happy to refer you. Here is what I learned.

1) Flange. The 325 auto has a 3.46 differential, so the 6-speed swap is geared well for this setup. However, it has a 4-bolt flange and the replacement 330 driveshaft requires a 6-bolt flange. Be sure to add the flange to your parts list if you are converting a 325.

2) Radiator. The only difference between an manual and auto radiator is the mounting plate. We removed the auto transmission cooling attachment to the radiator and swapped the plate, which cost around $50. Use realOEM.com to confirm -- I think the part number is 17111436250. (EDIT -- see two posts below from Nervous about the radiator adjusting screw that you'll also need. I forgot to list that here.)

3) Shifter. We were planning on using a B&M performance shifter but it didn't fit right. We used a Z4 shifter instead because the shop had a spare. It works without any problems, although it isn't centered in the box. I may swap this out for a ZHP shifter in the future.

4) Flywheel. The stock dual-mass flywheel is pretty heavy, but we decided to use it because finding a used flywheel was cheaper. Plus, most of the performance flywheels are noisy.

5) Mileage. My mileage with the manual tranny improved from 29mpg at 80mph to 32mpg at 80mph, even with the 3.46 differential. In town I improved from 17mpg to 24mpg.

I'll share my experience in programming in the next post.

Last edited by zachdog; 04-29-2012 at 12:56 PM.
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:47 PM   #172
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Here's what I learned about the wiring and programming. TitaniumCranium has several excellent posts on this. See post #18, 19, 20, 21, 22, and 23. Don't be intimidated by the wiring -- if you can wire a car stereo you can wire your new tranny.

The reverse light wiring wasn't too difficult. See posts #128 and #133 for the right part, as found by TitaniumCranium. Our shop had the right plug in the parts bin, but you can also make one. We used some black electrical tape to seal things up nicely. See post #24 for pics. TitaniumCranium really made this easy for all of us with his excellent pics and write up! Sweet props!

The programming took several hours. My brother's shop has access to Progman and a GT1, but this is more than he's programmed before, so we learned together. HUGE thanks go to TitaniumCranium for responding to my message with an email and a phone call. He saved me $$$ so I wouldn't need to visit the dealer to reprogram my car. Here's the instructions that I followed. Of course, I'm not liable for anything that you do to your car if something goes wrong -- I'm just sharing my experience as a benefit to others here!

1) If your car was built before 9/01 you will need to reprogram your car using an SA code. Later cars use a VO code (vehicle order). My instructions are only for cars that need an SA code. Before you start you'll need to download a program called "BMW Decoder," which will work on PC/Windows only. Many members on this forum probably have access to this program and can point you in the right direction.

2) Plug in your GT1 and open Progman.

3) Start a session and choose "5 series" and "E34." This starts the older version of Progman.

4) Next choose E46. This sounded confusing to me (selecting E46 from within the E34 area) but it will make sense when you do this.

5) Select Option 3 (I think, or it may be called ZCS coding - I'm typing this from memory), then choose KOMBI as the module to code.

6) Confirm that your VIN is correct and note your car's SA code that is shown in Progman.

7) Fire up your "BMW Decoder" PC/Windows program on another computer and input your SA code that you see on the Progman screen. Deselect option 205 "automatic transmission" in the BMW Decoder program and confirm that all the other options are correct. I needed to recheck "cruise control" for some reason. Then decode this as your new SA code.

8) Type your new SA code into Progman. It will have a few different numbers but it should otherwise be very similar to the original code.

9) After the cycle completes in Progman, the gear indicator light should disappear from the dash. A few warning lights will remain, so you have another step to clear those lights.

10) OPTIONAL. At this point I unplugged the battery and reconnected it after about 5 minutes. I cleared as many codes as I could with DIS and then resumed with the next step. This is where I needed help.

11) Go back into Progman, select 5 series, E35, then E46, just like before.

12) Select the "programming" option rather than ZCS or KOMBI. I'm typing this from memory, so please bear with me if this isn't exactly correct.

13) Select program DME. You don't need to input any new codes here to reprogram the DME. If you are on the right screen it will ask for your mileage and it will tell you that you can only reprogram the DME 15 more times (or something like that). I was intimidated but this was the right programming option.

14) If all your warning lights didn't disappear you could try that last step again or clear the codes with DIS. Everything should work except the reverse mirror dip.

15) OPTIONAL. I also completely re-encoded the KOMBI codes in Progman before I reprogrammed the DME, but I don't think it's necessary. Open Progman, then go to 3 series (not 5), then E46 (not E34), and re-encode from there. See post #134 for TitaniumCranium's experience with this step.

16) OPTIONAL. I also found another thread that recoded the EWS from within the programming section in the older version of Progman and also recoded the ASC/DSC and GKE or ZKE sections. I don't believe this is necessary, but this is a very tenuous reprogramming process, so I include it here for information.

THANKS AGAIN to TitaniumCranium and the other great posts on this thread. I love my manual transmission. My 325 is amazingly fast, and I no longer have 330 envy!

AND SWEET PROPS to my brother's BMW shop in Phoenix. I'd be happy to refer anybody there. Send me a private message and I'll point you in the right direction.

Last edited by zachdog; 04-28-2012 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 04-29-2012, 12:32 AM   #173
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2) Radiator. The only difference between an manual and auto radiator is the mounting plate. We removed the auto transmission cooling attachment to the radiator and swapped the plate, which cost around $50. Use realOEM.com to confirm -- I think the part number is 17111436250.
Not only this. There is another different part - Radiator adjusting screw
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...45&hg=17&fg=05

Manual rad has part #2, auto has part #3
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:10 AM   #174
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Hi

Just did the swap from a ZF to a 5 speed on my E46 323Ci EURO

Wired up the 3-pin clutch switch (my used pedal set didnt come with a clutch module) and the car wont start. Any tips? Will it help to just buy/install a clutch module? I have cruise control.

A local guy said i just need the clutch switch and have to get the DME and EWS re-programmed in order to get the car to start. Is this true?
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:37 AM   #175
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omg, such an amazing thread!
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:53 AM   #176
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Hi

Just did the swap from a ZF to a 5 speed on my E46 323Ci EURO

Wired up the 3-pin clutch switch (my used pedal set didnt come with a clutch module) and the car wont start. Any tips? Will it help to just buy/install a clutch module? I have cruise control.

A local guy said i just need the clutch switch and have to get the DME and EWS re-programmed in order to get the car to start. Is this true?
By saying 'car wont start' you mean what exactly? Does starter work but engine still do not start or starter also is silent?
Anyway, no reprogramming is required for starter to try to start the engine (at least for my 2001 330ci). Have you disconnected the TCU (transmission control unit) or it is still connected in place?
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:46 PM   #177
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By saying 'car wont start' you mean what exactly? Does starter work but engine still do not start or starter also is silent?
Anyway, no reprogramming is required for starter to try to start the engine (at least for my 2001 330ci). Have you disconnected the TCU (transmission control unit) or it is still connected in place?
Everything is silent. No starter, no starter relay, nothing... The TCU is still in place
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:58 PM   #178
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Well... Then something is wrong with wiring. My 2001 330ci engaged the starter right after I wired the clutch module (however, I used the 4 wire contactless module, not the 3-wire switch...)
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Old 05-03-2012, 04:28 PM   #179
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The obligatory disclaimer Sadly, in our lawsuit happy world I am forced to do this so you may skip past this but it still applies.
Is this actually true? Someone can be held liable for posting words on the internet?
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Old 05-03-2012, 08:00 PM   #180
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Everything is silent. No starter, no starter relay, nothing... The TCU is still in place
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Well... Then something is wrong with wiring. My 2001 330ci engaged the starter right after I wired the clutch module (however, I used the 4 wire contactless module, not the 3-wire switch...)
///Norway - please give me the production date or your car, RHD or LHD, and I'll do a little research.

The four wire module that Nervous mentions has a wire that goes to the EWS module. Without that wire the car won't start on MS43 ECU's, but I suspect your wiring and ECU may be different.

When I put mine together I started the car and drove it without doing any programming so I'm fairly certain that isn't your issue.

Once you recode the cluster and reprogram the ECU you will have to realign the EWS module against the ECU's new programming. For now just leave the TCU plugged in. This way the anti-lock brakes will continue to work correctly.
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