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Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > E46 Convertible

E46 Convertible
The E46 vert forum. Talk about dropping your E46 top here.

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Old 02-25-2014, 01:53 PM   #21
gamefacenyc
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: LONGISLAND NEWYORK
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car is of the road in my garage so id figured this is the best time to fix it. top works manually/no leaks/motorpump has full oil in it and turns on when car battery is re connected but the car does nothing when the the top up/down buttons are pressed..
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Old 02-25-2014, 02:01 PM   #22
gamefacenyc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taylor192 View Post
Did you visibly check them? or electrically test them?

If you didn't electrically test them, go do it. Wires can break internally, or at different bends. The first bend above the drivers seat is the most common bend, yet not the only bend the wires break.

Alternatively get the codes get by a shop. A blinking light means a code is stored, it is unlikely to be a fuse. If you want to check fuses, the fuse panel has a guide indicating all the fuses for the top.
thanks on the help,
i visibly checked the whole car/ took the whole trunk panels and left rear panels off.

anyhow i forgot to mention that my rear defrost is not working {just here a click sound when pressed} and saw from the other ad that it could be one of the 3 electromag sensors? anyone has a pic of them/location?

Last edited by gamefacenyc; 02-25-2014 at 02:02 PM.
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Old 02-25-2014, 02:49 PM   #23
taylor192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefacenyc View Post
thanks on the help,
i visibly checked the whole car/ took the whole trunk panels and left rear panels off.

anyhow i forgot to mention that my rear defrost is not working {just here a click sound when pressed} and saw from the other ad that it could be one of the 3 electromag sensors? anyone has a pic of them/location?
Visibly checking is NOT enough. Perform the electrical troubleshooting in the sticky, or take it to a shop to get the codes read, or keep guessing at what the problem is and throw parts at it.

It "could" be anything. This is why you need to read the codes or do some electrical troubleshooting. Anything else is just a guess.
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:08 PM   #24
gamefacenyc
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yeah just replied back to you on the other post. thanks on the help
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Old 02-25-2014, 05:57 PM   #25
Kay D Boss
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My top does the same thing. 1800$ diagnosis at clear lake bmw and they couldn't figure it out. Good luck!

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
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Old 06-03-2014, 01:30 PM   #26
jgriffi1
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Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!! Had the same issue and found your DIY and fixed the problem in 15 minutes. The green wire had broken in mine. Spliced in a new wire and it's good as new (ha!).
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Old 06-11-2014, 04:22 PM   #27
ajullie2
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Thank you for this post. I've been trouble shooting my '04 330 hood for the last 2 evenings, it was opening normally and then stopping at the point the lid should have opened. I started looking thru for issues, checked hydraulic fluid level, checked latch mechanism (under rear seats) and could not find any issue. I tried to close the roof tonight and it wouldn't (where it would previously), I.e. the problem had got a little worse. It occurred to me that the battery level may have dropped and was now preventing full closing. I started the engine, blipped (get alternator kicked in) and roof would close. To my surprise, the damn thing would now fully open and close (with the engine running and alternator kicked in). I suspect battery is on the way out, and will look to replace. Voltage without alternator was around 12v, with alternator around 14v. This post was really useful. Thank you.
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Old 06-26-2014, 11:59 PM   #28
fletch00
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Spliced broken wire - SOLVED!!

Thanks so much ! This thread (and great pics) solved my issue:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=790169

I just did this repair in 1hr on my 2004 330Ci and the top is again fully functional.

Yesterday the top stopped closing - going about 3/4 of the way then stopping.

Funny story: While slicing open the black braided wire bundle and prying the bundle out of the fasteners on either side of the "pinch point" I managed to slice the tip of my finger - it was bleeding a good rate
But then I remembered the first aid kit in the trunk - so I manually lower the top one handed and wrap up the wound to continue.

I found one of the 4 smaller gauge wires completely severed and the others frayed with copper exposed! (now I know why it stopped 3/4 - exactly when those wires extend)
I use the (perfectly suited and SAFE surgical scissors from the first aid kit to snip the braiding to get ready to splice a 3 inch piece of wire scavenged from an old AC adapter into the severed wire and use the trimmed band-aids from the first aid kit to wrap all the repairs and frayed wires.

I manually fold the top down then start the car and press the close button - closed all the way - SUCCESS!

Thanks again!
Lesson for me: When trying amateur repairs the best tools may be found in a first aid kit !!

Last edited by fletch00; 06-27-2014 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 07-09-2014, 06:13 AM   #29
rsimon
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Just a THANK YOU!

Hey, reading your story and following the troubleshooting helped me to find this broken cable issue on my E46 325Ci! Thank you, and greetings from Hungary!
Robert
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Old 07-20-2014, 04:15 PM   #30
BimmerTex
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Same problem...

Thanks fmzip, Taylor, and others. Same symptoms as others...and reluctantly decided to check for wire issues. The braid looked fine, but...

I cut open the braid right at the exact same spot. To my delight I found the green/white wire cut all the way through. (will post a pic if I can) I'm not sure how it worked at all - must have been making minimal contact for some portion of the cycle.

Anyway, a nice splice with shrink tubing, and electrical tape and its works well again.

Thanks again...I never would have done this myself without the guidance and pics.
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Old 08-06-2014, 05:37 AM   #31
Thess
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Hello gents,

Last Sunday, for the first time I had issues with my soft top.
This is how far it would go: https://www.dropbox.com/s/dhabzq4zyd...2020.52.49.jpg
After few tries I managed to get to this point (back of the top raised a bit as well but not much): https://www.dropbox.com/s/2o9woo741d...2020.46.38.jpg
Here's my hydro pump: https://www.dropbox.com/s/mpoxtenszb...2020.58.27.jpg <--- question about that is, which circle marks the top up plug? Is it the red one?

I read the errors from CVM:
1. http://imageshack.com/f/f0gwciYsp
2. http://imageshack.com/f/p7asQwUHp

Wire harness at the critical point looks intact, should it be my next step to cut it and check inside?

The mechanism does make a sound like its struggling with the roof - and it takes longer than usual (even to raise it a lil' bit).

I have got Aral Vitamol fluid for the pump just in case...
I'm not sure how to manually lower the top...

Any advise?

Thanks!

Last edited by Thess; 08-06-2014 at 05:38 AM. Reason: pictures not displayed
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Old 08-06-2014, 12:05 PM   #32
taylor192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thess View Post
Hello gents,

Last Sunday, for the first time I had issues with my soft top.
This is how far it would go: https://www.dropbox.com/s/dhabzq4zyd...2020.52.49.jpg
After few tries I managed to get to this point (back of the top raised a bit as well but not much): https://www.dropbox.com/s/2o9woo741d...2020.46.38.jpg
Here's my hydro pump: https://www.dropbox.com/s/mpoxtenszb...2020.58.27.jpg <--- question about that is, which circle marks the top up plug? Is it the red one?

I read the errors from CVM:
1. http://imageshack.com/f/f0gwciYsp
2. http://imageshack.com/f/p7asQwUHp

Wire harness at the critical point looks intact, should it be my next step to cut it and check inside?

The mechanism does make a sound like its struggling with the roof - and it takes longer than usual (even to raise it a lil' bit).

I have got Aral Vitamol fluid for the pump just in case...
I'm not sure how to manually lower the top...

Any advise?

Thanks!
Your next step should be to read the electrical troubleshooting sticky in more detail.

Error 18 and 19 indicate a wire is broken. Follow the sticky to electrically test the CVM plug, you do NOT need to cut open wires to do this. Visual checking is NOT enough.

Your pump level looks fine, it should only be within the circle with the top fully open, and below the circle with the top closed.

RTFM to manipulate the soft top manually, or search this forum.
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Old 08-07-2014, 12:51 PM   #33
Thess
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Thanks taylor192.

Did as you suggested. Here's what I found.

After lowering the top manually, fluid level in hydraulic tank is in the middle of the circle - what means its alright.

Stripped rear left side of the car for CVM.

So all the pairs are showing continuity... But there's a problem with triplets.

I couldn't get any two of the triplets to show continuity - tried all the combinations.

Any suggestions for the next step?

Last edited by Thess; 08-07-2014 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 08-07-2014, 01:11 PM   #34
taylor192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thess View Post
Thanks taylor192.

...

Any suggestions for the next step?
Option 1: Keep poking around

Test continuity from the plug to the wire past the bend where the wires typically break. Start with the wires that are colour coded with the triplets you couldn't test.

If your leads are not long enough to test from plug to bend, get some wire to devise an extension.

Hopefully you are testing continuity with the roof in the bad position. You might get false positives with the roof in other positions.

Option 2: Brute force

Cut every wire before/after the "first bend" and splice in new wire. I couldn't be bothered with trying to trace which wire was broken, so I just spliced them all. You will want to solder and heatshrink the splices, there are too many wires to use butt connectors, they won't fit.

If one broke, likely others are not far behind. Consider it preventative maintenance.
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Last edited by taylor192; 08-07-2014 at 01:13 PM.
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