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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 09-11-2010, 01:38 PM   #1
TxZHP04
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Question driveshaft replacement

So I pulled my driveshaft today to replace a failing guibo that I believe has been causing some vibration under load. The rubber in the center support was starting to show signs of cracking so replaced that as well. As I was giving everything the once over before putting it back together, I noticed that the boot on the rear CV joint (mates to diff input flange) was torn in multiple places. The joint seems a little stiff to me but I'm not sure what's normal. I've heard that it's either not possible to replace this CV joint or that it's simply more economical to replace it due to the trouble of getting it properly balanced.

Am I correct in thinking that I need a new driveshaft or is it possible the boot can be replaced if the joint isn't damaged yet? Are there any quality options for remanufactured driveshafts? Somebody help me figure out what my options are.

Thx.
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Old 09-11-2010, 01:47 PM   #2
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http://www.acpt.com/driveshaft/index.html

CF driveshaft They've done an E46 M3 driveshaft ... Maybe they'll do a non-m?
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Old 09-11-2010, 01:58 PM   #3
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Thanks, not looking for anything exotic though... just a simple repair/replacement for the stock part.
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Old 09-11-2010, 02:16 PM   #4
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As long as you haven't lost much grease out of the joint, I'm sure you could just replace the boot. I tore a rear outer boot (brake line rubbed it and tore). Caught it before I lost too much, was able to just replace the boot/grease. Messy job
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Old 09-11-2010, 03:14 PM   #5
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Can't replace just the boot, it's molded into the CV joint. Advice from Autoscope was to replace the driveshaft which is consistent with what I've read/heard before. Would love another option but I think it's down to finding someone that's capable of rebuilds or just buying a new one through BMW. Faulkner is listing them for ~$650 and Tischer for about $685. Rick told me to expect about $600 for a rebuilt. I just hate it when an otherwise simple repair reveals a bigger problem.
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Old 09-11-2010, 04:55 PM   #6
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Weird - do the the tears look like they're from the boot getting pinched because the driveshaft was allowed to hang from the CV joint end?
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Old 09-11-2010, 05:24 PM   #7
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Hard to say what would have caused it.

I have updated info from another local tech who says replacing the CV joint should be doable and with no balance concerns. Now I just need to figure out how long the u-joints typically last. If they might go in 20-30k miles, I think I'd just assume go ahead and replace everything now.
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Old 09-13-2010, 09:48 AM   #8
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You can buy the rear CV joint (PN - 26117548392) and don't worry about the balance. This is what I'd do. I'd take off the rear CV joint and clean it up. Then I'd clean up the boot really well. Then I'd apply a nice coat of black RTV on the inside and outside of the boot. Repack the CV joint and put it back on.

That rear CV joint does not go through the amount of movement as a regular one does on an axle. It's not super critical that it needs to be 100% sealed. I bet the RTV on that boot will last you many years and save you the $188 that the CV joint retails for.

In conclusion, change out the flex disk, center support bearing, clean and reseal the rear CV joint. I bet that will be the last time you will be messing with the driveshaft.
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Old 09-13-2010, 02:15 PM   #9
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That thought had crossed my mind....

So how does the CV joint attach to the shaft? Presumably there is some sort of fastener hiding under the boot?
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Old 09-13-2010, 02:40 PM   #10
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There's a snap ring on the end (not on the boot side). After that, you'll have to hammer the CV joint off with a brass drift. Here's a breakdown of the parts:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...97&hg=26&fg=10
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Old 09-13-2010, 03:06 PM   #11
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So I guess that means the end cover (#20) just pops off to expose the snap ring?
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Old 09-14-2010, 09:23 AM   #12
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So I guess that means the end cover (#20) just pops off to expose the snap ring?
Yep
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Old 09-14-2010, 10:52 AM   #13
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Thanks! I'm much more willing to take something apart when I know how it's actually supposed to come apart.
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Old 09-14-2010, 02:16 PM   #14
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That CV joint is just like about what most German cars have had on axles since the 60's. I don't really understand why a 330 has a CV joint there as a 3.0l Z4 only has a U-Joint like in a 328, 325 or 323.
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Old 10-14-2010, 03:01 PM   #15
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Anyone happen to know which specific clamp tool is required for the drive shaft CV boot clamp, BMW part 26117542264? I've got some rear subframe mount issues to attend to (once again), but after that's squared away, I'll be replacing the CV joint.
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Old 10-14-2010, 03:56 PM   #16
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I have a 330i Drive shaft from a manual? Also a shop near my house can make/balance a drive shaft for you. I had to have them make me one for my awd to rwd swap. I can send you the Drive shaft for 150 shipped.
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Old 10-14-2010, 04:21 PM   #17
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I have a 330i Drive shaft from a manual? Also a shop near my house can make/balance a drive shaft for you. I had to have them make me one for my awd to rwd swap. I can send you the Drive shaft for 150 shipped.
Thanks for the offer but the replacement CV joint, clamp, and snap ring have already shipped.
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Old 10-14-2010, 04:55 PM   #18
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Thanks for the offer but the replacement CV joint, clamp, and snap ring have already shipped.
I'm gonna do this pretty soon as well - already got the parts. It looks like someone in here before me didn't know how to get the driveshaft off so they whaled the side of the flange section hard enough to bulge up the surface where torx screws go in. I hadn't noticed anything weird happening while driving but I figure I'll just replace the thing while the car's all apart anyway.
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Old 10-17-2010, 10:52 AM   #19
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I wasn't noticing progress with the hammer/drift method and I saw a dimple for a puller at the end of the shaft so I just pulled the CV with a 2/3 jaw puller from autozone. I used the extra puller arm mount for a very handy counter brace bar:



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Old 10-19-2010, 09:46 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by TxZHP04 View Post
Anyone happen to know which specific clamp tool is required for the drive shaft CV boot clamp, BMW part 26117542264? I've got some rear subframe mount issues to attend to (once again), but after that's squared away, I'll be replacing the CV joint.
I just wrapped up the CV replacement. Something that looks like this would work for a clamp wrench:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...F8&me=&seller=
Autozone had a similar one to loan. I tightened the clamp up with ~that^ and made the final pinch with a little set of craftsman cutter pliers (the one on top in the picture):
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=00945671000P
Note that the clamp that Faulkner sent me was not the same as the one that was on the car originally.

Unrelated, but in case it helps: the end cap (#20) gets pressed evenly & tightly back on by the diff flange so no need to drive it in. You'll probably want a new end cap, too - I couldn't get mine off intact.
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Last edited by McSpeed; 10-20-2010 at 05:53 AM.
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