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General E46 Forum
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Old 09-30-2010, 10:30 PM   #1
Tomkoby
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Smile My first experience diagnosing an e46

I hope someone can help. I just bought my first e46 AWD 5sp sedan and i'm mechanically inclined. I picked it up for a steal from a family member, but she came with baggage. Has a oscillation in the idle, stutter at 3k RPM(only in second gear!?!? Bank2sensor2...replaced sensor...Cleared code. Then I go to clean and re-apply oil to k&n filter...go to start the car, fires up settles at idle for maybe a second then dies. Try again...same thing....unplug MAF sensor...fires right up and runs fine. Idle still oscillates.Replaced MAF sensor...car dies after maybe a second at idle. Unplug MAF runs fine. It drives surprisingly well with it unplugged(except for the stutter at 3k in 2nd gear) The past couple days, it fires up for a second then dies even with new MAF unplugged.My guts telling me idle control motor. Any ideas???
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Old 09-30-2010, 10:33 PM   #2
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Oh...I forgot. I have got it to run with the MAF plugged in but as soon as the RPMs hit 2k or so, it sounds like she gasps for air and then dies
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:02 AM   #3
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Try removing oiled filter and replace with what the car's engineers planned for it...dry filter. Clean MAF, then check intake boot for cracks...often right off the idle control valve.

You might try spraying carb cleaner down around lower boot lightly to see if that causes change in idle...if so...cracked boot.

Hope I'm close to right...and hope this helps. (Of course, could be other things!)

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Old 10-01-2010, 07:10 AM   #4
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^+1 for the intake boot. If it is older than 4 years, just replace it and move on.

Also check the DISA and coils or spark plug boots as well.

Some of the coils were recalled, many of the spark plug boots crack and fail, however, I think they are part of the coil and cannot be purchased separately?

I prefer the cheapest spray brake cleaner to look for vacuum leaks rather than carb cleaner. Carb cleaner is a bit more harsh on paint than brake cleaner. Just make sure not go get any on your fenders or nicely painted surfaces.
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:17 AM   #5
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^+1 for the intake boot. If it is older than 4 years, just replace it and move on.

Also check the DISA and coils or spark plug boots as well.

Some of the coils were recalled, many of the spark plug boots crack and fail, however, I think they are part of the coil and cannot be purchased separately?

I prefer the cheapest spray brake cleaner to look for vacuum leaks rather than carb cleaner. Carb cleaner is a bit more harsh on paint than brake cleaner. Just make sure not go get any on your fenders or nicely painted surfaces.
Thanks, jf. You know, I've heard of guys cleaning engine by spraying water in...wonder if just a mist of water from spray bottle would be enough to pick up hiccup and thus diagnose intake leak...and it'd spare the paint too.

Anyway, sorry op, didn't mean to risk your paint! And, I'll also say that brake cleaner too will probably do something to paint...but if you're easy with it, shouldn't be much...though I think this water idea might just work too.

Also, boots on coils are replaceable...at least I know they are on mine...spark plug socket...

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...25&hg=12&fg=05
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Old 10-01-2010, 02:53 PM   #6
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sounds like a leak in the intake tract between maf and engine
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Old 10-01-2010, 03:02 PM   #7
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sounds like a leak in the intake tract between maf and engine
+1
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:16 PM   #8
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Intake boot is between MAF and intake!

This is a COMMON problem that many times gets overlooked.
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Old 10-03-2010, 10:39 PM   #9
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So you guys were right. Lower intake boot had slipped off intake. Fixed it, replaced with oem filter...plugged old maf in and sure enough, fired up and ran the best it has since i got it. Then it got up to full temp. Flutter at 3k RPM in 2nd gear and the idle oscillation came back. I double checked the hose clamp on the intake and it's fine. Then I threw a 1447 code. Appears to be evap canister of some sort(seems unrelated though). I started to push the car a little harder in 1st gear and picked up the same flutter, so it could be tied to torque at a certain speed since the hesitation happens at 5-6k rpm in first or 3k in 2nd...doesn't appear anywhere in the rest of the spectrum. Idles oscillation seems to be most prevalent when clutch pedal is engaged and at heavier braking which leads me to vacuum. Any ideas on either issue? Thanks for all the feedback.
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Old 10-04-2010, 03:32 PM   #10
Tomkoby
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So it definitely appears speed related. Between 25 and 30 mph there is a hesitation(like it's stuttering). In first gear it happens at 5500-6000 rpm and in 2nd right at 3000 rpm. I am lost on this one. Could it be something in the all wheel drive system? What's weird is it rarely does it when the car is cold, and sometimes even when it's up to temp, it will not do it (not as common)

Last edited by Tomkoby; 10-04-2010 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 10-04-2010, 04:10 PM   #11
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My thinking is fuel filter maybe...and I know on later cars there's a vac line to it, so that might be the code you got too.

You know how long it's been since other basic maintenance has been done? Miles on car? Plugs, fuel filter, would be the first (plugs go 100K, but not to say that can't get messed up before)...then little things like using Techron to clean out injectors (I use every few months)...but start making sure basics are done before you start swapping other parts based on internet guesses! Nothing personal whoever wants to add guesses like I just did!

Doug
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:01 PM   #12
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If the intake elbow is original, highly suggest replacing it. If you start driving the car hard, it is likely to fail soon anyway even if it is not currently leaking. These boots crack inside the accordion folds, usually in the bottom of the elbow as I recall and can be hard to see at times.

Any sort of air leak between the MAF and the intake makes the engine think it is under less load then it actually is, basically running lean, not adding enough fuel.

Suggest you consider my advice.
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