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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 10-14-2010, 11:31 AM   #241
OrientBlau
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Understand that BMW does things by the book and ensures that certain perfunctory steps are taken. That is why they list things like disconnecting a battery for an AI swap. They are tailored for the dealer and are more inclusive than necessary. It also ensures that the dealer is making any necessary DME updates and charging the customer accordingly. Using common sense, why would a strut bar require any flashing or coding. How would the computer know you have a strut brace on and how would it compensate, anyhow.
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Old 10-14-2010, 11:50 AM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanneba View Post
The last page of the instructions says:

7. Concluding work and coding
This retrofit system does not require coding.
Connect the battery
Conduct a brief test
Thanks man! They must be using a template for that... I have a couple more questions if I may. I am OK with cutting plastic, cables, and insulation. But for the life of me, I cannot figure out how would you connect positive terminal bracket after swapping everything 180 degrees. The cable is coming from the right (all relative to you when you stand in front of an engine compartment) - see my picture, and after swapping in the diagram it is conveniently coming from the left... DO I just put the cable on top on top of the rubber stripping? It does not seem to be extendable...

Another question: to pull up the cover of positive terminal bracket (per instruction), it seems to me that I need to peel the rubber stripping of the metal partition - it seems glued.

And the last one. 35 Nm is 26 ft-lb
http://www.thetoolhut.com/Torque-Con...sh-Metric.html
Whereas the instructions on putting M3 strut bar says 18 ft-lb:
http://www.bmw330ci.net/projects/strutbar.php (step 8). WHich one is true?
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:21 PM   #243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serge_ua View Post
Thanks man! They must be using a template for that... I have a couple more questions if I may. I am OK with cutting plastic, cables, and insulation. But for the life of me, I cannot figure out how would you connect positive terminal bracket after swapping everything 180 degrees. The cable is coming from the right (all relative to you when you stand in front of an engine compartment) - see my picture, and after swapping in the diagram it is conveniently coming from the left... DO I just put the cable on top on top of the rubber stripping? It does not seem to be extendable...

Another question: to pull up the cover of positive terminal bracket (per instruction), it seems to me that I need to peel the rubber stripping of the metal partition - it seems glued.

And the last one. 35 Nm is 26 ft-lb
http://www.thetoolhut.com/Torque-Con...sh-Metric.html
Whereas the instructions on putting M3 strut bar says 18 ft-lb:
http://www.bmw330ci.net/projects/strutbar.php (step 8). WHich one is true?
It is lightly glued, just pull it off it will come off don't worry, and it goes back on easily too. Just whatever you do don't forget to retool the flux capasitor that's connected to the doohicky in line with bmw specs
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:26 PM   #244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serge_ua View Post
Thanks man! They must be using a template for that... I have a couple more questions if I may. I am OK with cutting plastic, cables, and insulation. But for the life of me, I cannot figure out how would you connect positive terminal bracket after swapping everything 180 degrees. The cable is coming from the right (all relative to you when you stand in front of an engine compartment) - see my picture, and after swapping in the diagram it is conveniently coming from the left... DO I just put the cable on top on top of the rubber stripping? It does not seem to be extendable...

Another question: to pull up the cover of positive terminal bracket (per instruction), it seems to me that I need to peel the rubber stripping of the metal partition - it seems glued.

And the last one. 35 Nm is 26 ft-lb
http://www.thetoolhut.com/Torque-Con...sh-Metric.html
Whereas the instructions on putting M3 strut bar says 18 ft-lb:
http://www.bmw330ci.net/projects/strutbar.php (step 8). WHich one is true?

I've pulled off those rubber seals on top of the partitions many times. Its fine. Just pull up and push back down. No need to even use glue.

The battery terminal box is flipped and you switch the cables. You have one on each end which attach to the box. There are two battery connections in the box. You reverse them.
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:40 PM   #245
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No intakes left ugh! I guess Afe route it is
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:57 PM   #246
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^ You check with other suppliers?; bmwmercedesparts.com, getbmwparts.com
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:59 PM   #247
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Originally Posted by Jmanscotch View Post
^ You check with other suppliers?; bmwmercedesparts.com, getbmwparts.com

I wonder if dealer sponsors like Faulkner and Tischer get first dibs or priority on the inventory of BMW parts.
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Old 10-14-2010, 01:02 PM   #248
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Originally Posted by 3KGT325XI View Post
No intakes left ugh! I guess Afe route it is
who said there is none left !!!!!!!



I STILL HAVE THEM !!!!!!
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Old 10-14-2010, 01:02 PM   #249
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Originally Posted by OrientBlau View Post
I wonder if dealer sponsors like Faulkner and Tischer get first dibs or priority on the inventory of BMW parts.
What do you mean?
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Old 10-14-2010, 01:10 PM   #250
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Originally Posted by Patrick- BMWPartsSource View Post
What do you mean?
I imagine that you guys (dealers) get priority from the warehouse or supplier for BMW parts. Like if a third party vendor needed a part and there was only one left, it might go to BMW instead of the 3rd party retailer. I could be wrong. Just something I would surmise.
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Old 10-14-2010, 01:16 PM   #251
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Patrick, I can't find the CF strut brace on your website. What is it listed under?
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Old 10-14-2010, 01:17 PM   #252
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Originally Posted by serge_ua View Post
Thanks man! They must be using a template for that... I have a couple more questions if I may. I am OK with cutting plastic, cables, and insulation. But for the life of me, I cannot figure out how would you connect positive terminal bracket after swapping everything 180 degrees. The cable is coming from the right (all relative to you when you stand in front of an engine compartment) - see my picture, and after swapping in the diagram it is conveniently coming from the left... DO I just put the cable on top on top of the rubber stripping? It does not seem to be extendable...

Another question: to pull up the cover of positive terminal bracket (per instruction), it seems to me that I need to peel the rubber stripping of the metal partition - it seems glued.

And the last one. 35 Nm is 26 ft-lb
http://www.thetoolhut.com/Torque-Con...sh-Metric.html
Whereas the instructions on putting M3 strut bar says 18 ft-lb:
http://www.bmw330ci.net/projects/strutbar.php (step 8). WHich one is true?
here are my before and after pic's took me about 30min easier then i thought but i did have to borrow a dremel from a friend
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Old 10-14-2010, 01:26 PM   #253
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Patrick, I can't find the CF strut brace on your website. What is it listed under?
Shoot me a email and i will just do it over the phone !! pcasey@bmwpartssource.com
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Old 10-14-2010, 01:32 PM   #254
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here are my before and after pic's took me about 30min easier then i thought but i did have to borrow a dremel from a friend
OrientBlau, tanzi, Mulatto325 - thanks a bunch guys!!! Looks like I can do it after all Just ordered the CF strut brace from Patrick - can't wait to get it!
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Old 10-14-2010, 01:38 PM   #255
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Originally Posted by serge_ua View Post
OrientBlau, tanzi, Mulatto325 - thanks a bunch guys!!! Looks like I can do it after all Just ordered the CF strut brace from Patrick - can't wait to get it!
You know, I'm often intimidated initially by various DIYs, but once you get in there and begin working, the bark really is worse than the bite. Its usually much easier than one thinks, especially when its your first time. After doing a few small jobs, you build confidence and can tackle more complex repairs more easily and confidently. When it all comes down to it, the DIY work isnt difficlut, but it is time consuming and kills your back.

Just read as many DIYs as you can and ask questions. Having a Benltey manual or a TIS CD ($10 on ebay) helps. My approach is that I look DIYs over until I can visualize every step in my mind. This way, I literally just open the hood and start wrenching without any instructions. Its all been burned into my memory, the steps and torque values, etc.
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Old 10-14-2010, 01:52 PM   #256
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Did anyone order a spare air filter for the Intake?

I was wondering if it comes installed on the plastic piece. Seems like that would account for the extra price.
I took the air filter out of the plastic and it looked like a standard BMW E46 air filter. The plastic part just seems to hold it in a circular shape and connect it to the top of the air box.
I didn't actually measure the filter part, should have compared it, I'll do that when I replace it next time.

I was just thinking maybe you could put an AFe Pro 5R filter in the Performance Air Intake.......
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Old 10-14-2010, 02:17 PM   #257
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I JUST called my buddy at my local bmw dealer and his computer system is showing 342 of the 325i intakes in NA
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Old 10-14-2010, 02:25 PM   #258
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I JUST called my buddy at my local bmw dealer and his computer system is showing 342 of the 325i intakes in NA
Wow, that's not a lot.
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Old 10-14-2010, 02:49 PM   #259
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Not really but other smaller disstribution centers will have some too. I think there are plenty to go around
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Old 10-14-2010, 03:34 PM   #260
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I think even if they were all picked up you would still have a VERY hard time trying to find someone else with a matching setup, even if the figure was 1,000... although it sounds like a lot on paper, in reality that's nothing compared to the millions of enthusiasts out there and the even larger amount of BMW owners in the US alone. Unless of course you meet someone else from this thread/site.
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