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Old 10-17-2010, 03:47 PM   #1
Fr3nch
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Took apart ICV, TB, MAF, and DISA...now which ones should I replace.

Just bought my first bimmer (2002 325xi) and have been fixing one thing at a time. I am trying to fix a throttle response/slight loss of power issue so I took off my ICV TB MAF and DISA for inspection. Now I need to know what it normal for these parts and what isn't. The TB was spotless so I know that is ok. I broke one of the hot film wires in the MAF just by spraying it, so that is getting replaced.

The two possible problem areas:
The DISA has a bunch of smelly, gritty oil on it, and there is also a bunch of gritty oil in the DISA hole. Is this a symptom of another problem? Maybe bad CCV components? I have read about a pin in the DISA that falls off and into one of the cylinders if your not careful. Where is this pin and what does it look like?

As soon as I took off the ICV I smelled ozone (the hot electronics smell) which probably isn't good considering the car has been off for 3 days. The inlet of the ICV was a little dirty, which has me stumped because my TB was spotless (they share the same intake boot). The outlet of the ICV was covered in this thick oil-like residue, but it didn't smell like engine oil. (The black stuff on my fingers). The valve itself still turns freely.

So what should I do next?


FYI: the MAF on some 2.5L m54s is the same as the MAF on a 2000 Hyundai sonata 2.5L, same OEM manufacturer and everything. The part sold as a hyundai is half the price as the same thing sold as BMW.
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Last edited by Fr3nch; 10-17-2010 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 10-17-2010, 03:51 PM   #2
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Subscribed. This is next on my list. DISA, ICV, upper/lower boots.


What was the condition of your lower boots. Any tears?
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Old 10-17-2010, 04:10 PM   #3
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Subscribed. This is next on my list. DISA, ICV, upper/lower boots.


What was the condition of your lower boots. Any tears?
Everything was still air tight, but the lower boot is starting to break down. The part that goes into the ICV was the worst, I am thinking that is what the dirt in the inlet side of the ICV was. I have also noticed that the soft rubber on all of my vacuum lines needs to be replaced. So far I have done the small diameter tubes going into my fuel filter, secondary air control valve, and the lower boot.

When you get around to doing yours let me know how everything looks. I am anxious to see if anyone has found anything different.
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Old 10-17-2010, 04:13 PM   #4
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Your ICV looks to be very dirty, that why I asked. Many find that the small branch off the lower boot is cracked. I already have the boots and all new clamps, as Ive heard the small tube clamp is a PITA to get off, so I will just cut it and install a new one.
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Old 10-17-2010, 04:19 PM   #5
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The two possible problem areas: I have read about a pin in the DISA that falls off and into one of the cylinders if your not careful. Where is this pin and what does it look like?
The pin everyone is worried about, holds the flapper. It is the length-wise metal pin that the DISA flap rotates around. Somewhow, it detaches and can enter the intake.
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Old 10-17-2010, 04:41 PM   #6
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OP, by any chance you have an AM air filter that's oiled? That might lead to decay of boot and cause the gunking up you saw. I had that in my main sap hose, which I attributed (maybe falsely) to my vcg being bad and oil laden vapors getting sucked through it.

Anyway, the only thing that seemed weird is that ozone smell you had...not sure about that. Might have been just that rubber gunk getting heated.

Anyway, if it was me, I think I'd do what I already did...replace all the rubber behind stuff...the TB gasket, icv grommet, and disa o-ring (if you have one).

The disa is supposed to be pretty firm,,.as in not flopping around...and I believe there is a pin at top and bottom of the paddle. If the paddle is loose or unconnected, then I wouldn't try the epoxy fix...some have had disa parts lost inside engine...NG at all!

I think you should put things back together and see what you get...then, if issue is still there, you can consider replacing icv...but if you cleaned it well and hear a good resonant 'click' when turning icv...prolly good enough to try at least. I used over a can of parts cleaner for icv...maybe two cans, as I did not want to go in again...so sprayed, swirled, dumped, sprayed again...from every angle I could think of.

Also I cleaned all electrical contacts both sides with plastic safe elect. cleaner...couldn't hurt. The only other thing I did was add a small (half pea sized) drop of rtv around the grommet that goes into the upper intake boot...it felt old and dried up, but was otherwise solid...but wanted to stop any air getting sucked in.

I also shot some lube up my throttle cable too (you prolly don't have one), but did remove tb and also clean the hell out of it.

Sorry to hear about the MAF, but you're lucky if the hyundai maf works on your car ...it doesn't, I know, on later models...and you know now, I guess, to treat maf gently and not touch anything to it...just spray.

HTH and let us know the results after reassembly.

Doug
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Old 10-17-2010, 04:43 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by OrientBlau View Post
Your ICV looks to be very dirty, that why I asked. Many find that the small branch off the lower boot is cracked. I already have the boots and all new clamps, as Ive heard the small tube clamp is a PITA to get off, so I will just cut it and install a new one.
But most do get it off, Orient. I just loosened it a turn or two with socket from beneath, and then after a couple of turns, spun the whole thing upright to where I could get to it better...but still replaced it with new...just coz.
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Old 10-17-2010, 04:58 PM   #8
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But most do get it off, Orient. I just loosened it a turn or two with socket from beneath, and then after a couple of turns, spun the whole thing upright to where I could get to it better...but still replaced it with new...just coz.
Doug, you know I too, wouldn't have it any other way!
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Old 10-17-2010, 05:48 PM   #9
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The pin on the DISA is located in the middle of the arch that holds the flap.

It is impossible for it to fall into the motor when the disa is bolted to the manifold as the pin sits firmly against the inside of the "DISA hole" in the mani.

Check the flap on the disa if you can move it on its axis a little bit then its going out if you can rotate it easily then its gone and needs replacement.
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Old 10-17-2010, 07:48 PM   #10
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I think you should put things back together and see what you get...then, if issue is still there, you can consider replacing icv...but if you cleaned it well and hear a good resonant 'click' when turning icv...prolly good enough to try at least. I used over a can of parts cleaner for icv...maybe two cans, as I did not want to go in again...so sprayed, swirled, dumped, sprayed again...from every angle I could think of.
I'd like to know what kind of cleaner you used on the ICV. I was just going to use Throttle Body cleaner. And also, what do you mean by a resonant click. I have never trouble shot a modern BMW engine before and don't know a lot of specifics about them.

Since the TB on my car is one of the cleanest things I've ever seen, I was not going to mess with it, especially since it is going to be really hard to get at.
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:05 PM   #11
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I'd like to know what kind of cleaner you used on the ICV. I was just going to use Throttle Body cleaner. And also, what do you mean by a resonant click. I have never trouble shot a modern BMW engine before and don't know a lot of specifics about them.

Since the TB on my car is one of the cleanest things I've ever seen, I was not going to mess with it, especially since it is going to be really hard to get at.
TB cleaner prolly would work, but I used brake/parts cleaner.

What I meant by the resonant click is that when you turn the icv around (it's out of car for cleaning, right?)...you'll hear the valve click. When it's dirty, it's a dull click...like a thud, coz it's hitting a build up of gunk. When clean, it's a snappy, bright click. I just kept on cleaning and cleaning mine until I couldn't hear any difference at all in the click...and then a little bit more.

I'm not sure what's inside, but it sounds like a large ball bearing inside there...and you'll hear when it's moving freely and closing firmly...I think.

But, if you're at the icv, then the tb is four screws away from being out...plus messing around with whatever connection you have to yours...I've got the cable...don't think you do.

But, if it's clean...that's good.

When I did mine at whatever mileage...maybe 170K or so (forget, maybe later), I had to push myself a little to remove it and replace the rubber behind...coz that's the kind of guy I am! It was a little more time, another $10...but I figured I was right there anyway...

Also, truth be told, I'd prepped for my trip to TB for many months...and went through the 'oh, no, oh no' phase for many weeks until finally one thing after another started coalescing somewhat. That's one of the reasons why I've preached here often...read until you're confused and ready to kill yourself...then you'll be ready to diy!

If you read a diy and think anything is going to be easy...read more...and that will make it easier. Just saying!

Doug
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Old 10-18-2010, 12:33 PM   #12
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I thought I had a vacuum leak, so I took all that stuff out two weeks ago. It's not tough. I'd changed the intake boot a month ago and doing that by lamp was a PITA the first time. But two weeks ago, the intake boot came off within 5 minutes. Seriously, it's simple once you figure out how to orient the screwdriver, and use a socket instead of a flathead on the clamps.

This last time, the toughest thing for me was figuring how to get the TB off. I didn't see the mount bolt, so I was trying to figure out how to get the whole wiring harness off.

DISA - looked like yours. I could turn it, but it took a lot of effort. I notice it doesn't make noise anyway. I sprayed it with brake cleaner, but the gunk didn't come off. I sprayed with deep creep then put RTV sealant all around the gasket. I let this dry 12 hours.

ICV - As dirty as yours. I sprayed brake cleaner liberally, and swabbed a finger rag in the openings. Sprayed deep creep.

TB - Mine was clean on the side facing the intake boot, but dirty on the other side. It's some brown residue, but brake cleaner has no effect on it. I kinda went through all my other cleaners and didn't feel like making a trip for TB cleaner. So I just sprays deep creep and wiped the surfaces of the butterfly as best as I could. I didn't replace the gasket or anything.

The first start it sputtered and coughed like when I seafoamed/deep creeped the car over the summer. It idles smoother now, but I still have a rough idle on cold starts. I've had a exhaust CPS code, so I assume my problem is on that side. I have a CPS to put in when I do my VCG and vanos seals. I hope that fixes it.

My car idles smoother and also responds better to the throttle. I have my performance intake arriving Wednesday, so I will order a TB gasket and get some more cleaners to do the job thoroughly. I just wonder if I can get the ICV out without removing the DISA. The RTV sealant made the seal really tight, and I didn't want to loosen it. PEACE.
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Old 10-28-2010, 12:28 PM   #13
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Here is an update. I got a ton of gunk out of the ICV and the backside of the tb was also really dirty, even though the front side was perfectly clean. The engine idles better and had better throttle response for about a day. Now the throttle response is back to normal. The whole thing wasnt that bad. The hose clamps on the tb were a major pain in the ass. Use a 6mm socket. its impossible to get on/off with a screw driver. The hyundai maf seems to work fine. At least it did for 10 days, now my fuel pump won't come on. Don't think its a related issue though.
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Old 10-28-2010, 01:19 PM   #14
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Here is an update. I got a ton of gunk out of the ICV and the backside of the tb was also really dirty, even though the front side was perfectly clean. The engine idles better and had better throttle response for about a day. Now the throttle response is back to normal. The whole thing wasnt that bad. The hose clamps on the tb were a major pain in the ass. Use a 6mm socket. its impossible to get on/off with a screw driver. The hyundai maf seems to work fine. At least it did for 10 days, now my fuel pump won't come on. Don't think its a related issue though.

Did you take out the TB to clean the backside, or can it be done easily, while still in?
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:17 PM   #15
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Did you take out the TB to clean the backside, or can it be done easily, while still in?
You have to take it out unless you want to spray a bunch of cleaner into your engine (don't do it). Its only 4 bolts and its pretty easy to get to them. You don't have to take off the wiring harness that is next to it like the bently manual says (at least on the throttle body w/o the cable) just the connector that hooks up to the tb. Probably a good idea to replace the gasket behind the tb as well.
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:30 PM   #16
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You have to take it out unless you want to spray a bunch of cleaner into your engine (don't do it). Its only 4 bolts and its pretty easy to get to them. You don't have to take off the wiring harness that is next to it like the bently manual says (at least on the throttle body w/o the cable) just the connector that hooks up to the tb. Probably a good idea to replace the gasket behind the tb as well.
Thanks. The boots, DISA, ICV and TB is my next DIY project. I'll be sure to get a gasket if I do remove the TB.
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