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E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here. |
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#21 |
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TiAgXi - great input. thanks
mvrk10256 - thanks. I appreciate it. I'll do the rear shock mounts as well. I inquired with a couple of manufacturers and got additional input to my decision making. Since I need to keep the orig ride height due to traveling in snow and the liklihood I'll have to chain up on Siskiyou Pass. It appears the Bilstein HD may be my best choice and a good value too. Thanks to those who took the time to give quality input. Hope to do the same for you one day soon.
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#22 | |
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Check the link below. Just thought I pass this on. I am in the market for Stock type suspension and stock feel. http://www.bmwmercedesparts.com/part...?siteid=215771 |
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#23 |
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If you care about ride quality Bilsteins are a mistake. Please post your results once you get it installed.
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#24 |
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Based on the info I posted above what would you recommend? You'll be competing with two very reputable manufacturer's reps who steered me away from their product to Bilsteins based on my needs. This should be interesting...
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#25 | |
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Not sure if anybody mentioned but Sachs are OEM also. I would be interested in getting feedback which ever route you go. |
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#26 | |
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OP, Trust me on this. I just went through Bilsteins and ended up getting direct OE replacements. I am much happier. Billys are not great for the rough NYC roads and I found them to be too stiff on rough roads. On the highway, they are absolutely incredible. Tight and zero roll. I loved how they road, but I really ddint like driving around the NYC boroughs with them. If I were you, I would buy direct SACHS damper replacements and get some new springs as well. You will also need new mounts, spring pads, bump stops, dust boots, reinforcement plates for front and rear, new bolts and nuts. |
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#27 |
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Bilsteins HD are about $450-$500 depending on the vendor. I'll post what I go with. Also, for what it's worth, the BMW dealer will install the whole kit for $425 and recommends a 4 wheel alignment for another $199. Since I don't have the luxury of time this seems reasonable but I'm going to check with my most trusted indy shop for comparison. The dealer also offered to put the car up on the rack and have me accompany their mechanic to do an inspection of the shocks, springs, etc. so I only order shocks & struts if the springs are fine. No charge for the inspection
![]() Before you dealer haters reply...I'm sure there is an indy shop that would only charge me $300 + $150 for the job but I'm more comfortable with the dealer because if anything goes wrong I believe they will make it right sooner than 'most' indy shops. Just my $.02
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#28 | |
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When they do the inspection, pay close attention to your rear springs. Mine were broken. It seems very common with the e46, in fact, there is a TSB on it. Last edited by OrientBlau; 11-01-2010 at 11:11 PM. |
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#29 | |
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Install front struts, strut mounts, springs - $440 Install rear shocks, shock mounts, springs - $330 4 wheel alignment - $200 As for the ride, it got stiffer, but that may be because the shocks are not 95,000 miles old. It's still not harsh over bumps, but there is noticeably less body roll on highway entrance and exit ramps. The decrease in wheel gap brings the car to standard non-XI height. It's by no means "slammed" but it doesn't look like its on stilts anymore. When I had the work done, I also had the front control arm bushings and rear trailing arm bushings replaced. It was expensive (another $500) but they were nearly rotted out.
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2003 BMW 325xi
2010 BMW M3 Sedan ![]() Last edited by LittleChrist12; 11-02-2010 at 10:15 AM. |
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#30 |
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Thanks gents for the input.
Orientblau - I hear you regarding crappy roads. Fortunately in OR we have really good roads (somewhere OR was rated as best roads in the country). I'm not concerned about borough roads. I think I'd have the good highway experience you have but in town too. According to the two manufacturer reps they said the only reason to replace the springs is if broken or you want a different spring (progressive, shorter, etc.) I will use new mounts on the rears and for a few bucks extra new nuts & bolts. The inspection will reveal if I need new boots or stops. LittleChrist12 - As you probably know, and I learned from this homework process, the sport shocks are shorter but have the same rebound & damping characteristics as the HD shocks. Sounds like you have an enjoyable ride with the new set up. I already replaced my control arm bushings and the remainder of my front end is good. I would easily decide to go with the Bilstein sport set up with Eibach springs but can't risk not being able to chain up on the passes. Could you easily install cable style chains with the clearance you have now?
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#31 | ||
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Quote:
Here is a quote from earlier in this thread:Quote:
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#32 | |
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New nuts and bolts for most applications is a must and a crusade of mine! EDIT: Yeah, Bilsteins will suit you well if you have smooth roads. They're not practical for me as I only drive in the city or on city highways (both of which are horrible), 90% of the time. Its rare the car goes on long highway trips. Last edited by OrientBlau; 11-02-2010 at 09:06 AM. |
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#33 | |
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So for ~$380 you could've had an indy do the work, instead of $970. I can understand wanting to have the dealer fix certain things, but shocks and struts are very basic and really any shop could handle it, even if they dont work much on BMWs. As far as wheel alignments, Ive had them done by the dealer and twice it was not done well. This is a grunt job and the low guy ends up doing it. If you go somewhere where they specialize in suspension and wheel alignments you mihgt just findthey do a better job. I sure did and will never take it to BMW again for a $200 alignment. Thats just robbery. |
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#34 | |
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#35 | |
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Labor would take maybe 2 hours (probably less) and @$75 a shop hour, thats $150 or less on labor. ~$320 for parts and labor, out the door. Fanatics need to avoid the dealer as much as possible. They are performing highway robbery. Buy from site sponsors, ask questions (or read up on DIYs) so youre at a minimum, knowledgeable about the installation process and wont get jerked around. GoingNuts likes to call it the Jiggery Pokery. I find that term hilarious! |
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#36 |
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If you are mechanically inclined at all, you may want to consider replacing your own rear shocks. Besides removing a couple of trunk trim panels it is really only a couple nuts on the top and a bolt on the bottom and the rear shocks will literally fall out. The biggest pitfall people encounter is not re-using the cupped washer at the top and bottom of the rear mount. Don't integrate the washer and the piston from the rear shock will blow through the mount in a matter of days or weeks (depending on driving conditions). If you need help then a Bentley manual should be able to walk you through the job. There may have even been posts on this site with nice photos, I have not looked.
I liked my factory ride height so I did not change springs when I did my shocks. I chose Bilstein for my car an exercise in brand loyalty. I have used them on other vehicles over the years and have always had good luck with them. I would say they are a little stiffer than the factory struts, but the factory suspension also had 100k on it. Sorry, no quantitive notation of change over stock but at risk of rebuke, I love them! |
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#37 | |
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and Bilstein HD is definitely stiffer than Sachs(OEM). Installing new front struts requires patience and time, which you claim you don't have, because of the springs. But the rear shocks are really really easy. It will probably take you an hour or two and there isn't much, if anything at all, that will go wrong during the installation. Make sure you have a vice grip ready when tightening the nuts on top because a shock will spin. That will save you some money... oh I installed Sachs for mine and they are exactly OEM ride feel. |
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#38 |
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Why not coilovers for that kind of cost? If you're willing to spend over $1000 on parts, wouldn't coilovers be the best option? I've heard they maintain the soft ride. Not so?
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#39 |
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I just replaced my suspension, the comprehensive way, and here is the order list:
OEM BMW Parts: 07119900402, 33521136283, 33531094518, 33531136385, 33526772864, 33531136395, 33521092362, 31356778832, 31336752735, 31331091867, 31331096664, 31311139453, 31336752832, 31316769731 2x of each, and 6x of the last part (strut nuts). Vendor Website Eibach: 2089.140 Vendor Website Koni: 8741-1481RSPORT 8741-1481LSPORT 8040-1343SPORT Vendor Website There is all the part numbers and links for all the shocks, springs, bearings, strut mounts, spring pads, shock bumpers, dust covers, bolts and replacement strut nuts you will need for a comprehensive suspension replacement. My total parts cost: $1160.47.
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Last edited by Dreamliner330; 11-02-2010 at 07:39 PM. |
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#40 |
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Sorry Dreamliner330...I guess I got wrapped up with all the rhetoric. Good input and appreciated.
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