E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > General E46 Forum

General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 11-04-2010, 10:48 PM   #1
justdru
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: VA
Posts: 45
My Ride: BMW 330ci
Rough idle, dying when slowing, no power, and sucking sound.

Sounds like the description for someone over the age of 80 doesn't it? Unfortunately, it's the bimmer. I'll try to explain the issues I'm having in chronological order from the time I crank the car to normal (you'll see - not so normal) operation.

On a cold start, the car idles extremely rough. It absolutely will not sit idle without dying. If I don't immediately put the car in reverse and/or keep my foot on the gas it will begin to bounce RPM's and die.

Once in motion, the car has very little power, and I can press the pedal down a decent distance without any result. However, suddenly, there will be what sounds like a sucking sound and a sudden surge in acceleration. This will repeat itself for about a mile - from little to no power when pressing the pedal to a sudden burst of the power that you would expect for the amount you've pressed the pedal.

After the car gets up to a decent temperature the issues largely stop. There are also no noticeable issues at speeds above 25 mph.

If I'm traveling along and come up to a red light, slowing to a stop, the car will sometimes die as I slow.

Once warmed up, if I'm sitting idle at a red light (or in the driveway cursing every breath) the RPM's will bounce like crazy. It doesn't always do this but probably 50% of the time.

When I say bounce I mean from 600 to 900, back to 600, down to about 200, back up to 900, and it will usually eventually fall to 0 and die.

Every so often when I start the car and get going it's as if there is almost no power at all. If I press the pedal to the floor I crawl along at a snail's pace. However, if I pump the pedal when this happens I accelerate. If this happens, I can pull over, turn off the car, wait about 10-15 seconds, crank it, and it's fine.

The other 10% of the time the car runs fine. Some days are better than others, of course, and those days you would never know anything is wrong.

I've got some videos that I'll try to post up shortly. I seriously appreciate any direction you guys can give!

[Edit]: I also forgot to add that often when the car has a really rough idle at a red light it has a very noticeable shake. It's not to the point of being violent but to the point that you definitely notice it.

For what it's worth - I had the intake boot replaced about a year ago. The angular piece that often cracks was a disaster so they replaced most of that section.

Last edited by justdru; 11-04-2010 at 10:56 PM.
justdru is offline   Reply With Quote
Ads by Google

Guests, get your FREE E46Fanatics.com membership to remove this ad.
Old 11-04-2010, 10:55 PM   #2
justdru
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: VA
Posts: 45
My Ride: BMW 330ci
First video:


This is a cold start-up in the morning. This is what happens if I do not either press the pedal and keep the car about 3,000rpms for a few minutes or immediately pull/back out and start moving. Again, this is about 90% of cold starts, and doesn't always happen.

Last edited by justdru; 11-04-2010 at 10:58 PM.
justdru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2010, 11:00 PM   #3
justdru
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: VA
Posts: 45
My Ride: BMW 330ci
Second Video:


As seen on the temperature gauge, this is at normal operating temperature. I'm parked in a parking lot for the duration of this video. You will see that the RPM's bounce erratically but the car does not die.
justdru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2010, 11:34 PM   #4
Gabbs
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 49
My Ride: 323i
According to my experience it has some of the problems that I got before with mine and I just change some sensors, spark plugs and hoses that made a difference in power. Some of the hoses were broken and the air escaped and that also cause to lose power. I changed the air flow sensor and now it runs better and gain its power back.
Gabbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2010, 12:06 AM   #5
justdru
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: VA
Posts: 45
My Ride: BMW 330ci
Thanks Gabbs. I'm considering inspecting the entire intake assembly very closely over the weekend. I'm hoping it's something simple.

Also, I should add that when my car does crank and I can't move forward with any substantial power the car is NOT in limp mode. All of the dash lights don't come on like you would expect in limp.

Again, when it does that, I can pump the gas repeatedly and accelerate.
justdru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2010, 01:53 AM   #6
mack89
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,334
My Ride: '02 TIAG 330i 5spd
sucking sound, rough idle = intake boots, take them out and see if there's any cracks or visible damages
stall = faulty MAF sensor. Check this link to test your MAF sensor
http://www.bmw-sport.net/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=34
__________________
mack89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2010, 06:10 AM   #7
dmax
Registered User
 
dmax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 22,827
My Ride: '99 328i 1.04646 mu
Search idle surging.

Cleaning maf always good idea as is thorough inspection with good led flashlight...of course.

Also, whenever I hear of erratic idling, as I had, I think of icv...and it can be cleaned. Depending on your skills...when you're there, other stuff is nice to do.

Search me and icv/maf/tb/rubber and think you might find one of the posts on my trip to TB...with lots of help from diys from the likes of SolidJake, Bimmersgarage, and countless other diys. I studied for months before going in...and collected parts for months too.

Oh, and for grins, check your sap hose(s)...and sucking might be many things, but any hoses on intake side will suck...including ccv. See if you can isolate sound with a garden hose in your ear as stethoscope...careful of moving parts!

HTH...oh, and confusing acronyms...plug them into search...you'll figure them out!

Doug
__________________


Performing at the Comedy Cove--595 Morris Ave. Springfield NJ reservations 973 376-3840

A recent set

dmax on the radio every Wednesday 7-9 p.m. NYC time. Call in! (661) 449-9340 watsonnwatson.com
dmax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2010, 07:40 AM   #8
ChiMaster
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 181
My Ride: 01 330ci, 14 Explore
You've got a large leak in the intake - Either the upper or lower throttle body boot is torn or loose.
__________________
2001 BMW 330ci
2011 Cooper S Clubman
2009 328 xDrive
ChiMaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2010, 02:19 PM   #9
justdru
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: VA
Posts: 45
My Ride: BMW 330ci
Checking into all of these things! Thanks for the priceless advice - it's been cold as hell here today (high in the 30's) so it's taking longer than normal to inspect.
justdru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2010, 07:12 PM   #10
Solidjake
Zero. Oil. Leaks.
 
Solidjake's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 22,309
My Ride: 2002 330i
Use my vid to get to your boots

Solidjake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2010, 12:57 PM   #11
justdru
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: VA
Posts: 45
My Ride: BMW 330ci
SolidJake, that's a bad ass video man. Thanks for that. I did as good as an inspection as I could yesterday in the snow and couldn't find any cracks in that lower boot hose - the one that connects next to the ICV and has the bend in it. I didn't expect there would be as I just had it replaced a short while ago.

Next weekend I'm going to pull out the entire intake assembly and inspect it closer as well as pull out the ICV and clean it. I'm also curious if the DISA could be causing some of my problems if it's not able to move freely. What did you use to clean the ICV with? Will any over the counter brake parts cleaner work well or is there something specific I should look for?

I'm at about 97k miles. Any other preventative stuff I should take care of while I'm at it?

In the past six months I've replaced the fuel filter and cabin air filters. I've owned the car since 46,000 and have not replaced the transmission fluid, spark plugs, or plug wiring. I will likely replace the plugs when I pass the 100k mile marker.
justdru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2010, 10:47 AM   #12
cdrshm
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 103
My Ride: 2001 BMW 330i
Send a message via AIM to cdrshm
Quote:
Originally Posted by justdru View Post
Sounds like the description for someone over the age of 80 doesn't it? Unfortunately, it's the bimmer. I'll try to explain the issues I'm having in chronological order from the time I crank the car to normal (you'll see - not so normal) operation.

On a cold start, the car idles extremely rough. It absolutely will not sit idle without dying. If I don't immediately put the car in reverse and/or keep my foot on the gas it will begin to bounce RPM's and die.

Once in motion, the car has very little power, and I can press the pedal down a decent distance without any result. However, suddenly, there will be what sounds like a sucking sound and a sudden surge in acceleration. This will repeat itself for about a mile - from little to no power when pressing the pedal to a sudden burst of the power that you would expect for the amount you've pressed the pedal.

After the car gets up to a decent temperature the issues largely stop. There are also no noticeable issues at speeds above 25 mph.

If I'm traveling along and come up to a red light, slowing to a stop, the car will sometimes die as I slow.

Once warmed up, if I'm sitting idle at a red light (or in the driveway cursing every breath) the RPM's will bounce like crazy. It doesn't always do this but probably 50% of the time.

When I say bounce I mean from 600 to 900, back to 600, down to about 200, back up to 900, and it will usually eventually fall to 0 and die.

Every so often when I start the car and get going it's as if there is almost no power at all. If I press the pedal to the floor I crawl along at a snail's pace. However, if I pump the pedal when this happens I accelerate. If this happens, I can pull over, turn off the car, wait about 10-15 seconds, crank it, and it's fine.

The other 10% of the time the car runs fine. Some days are better than others, of course, and those days you would never know anything is wrong.

I've got some videos that I'll try to post up shortly. I seriously appreciate any direction you guys can give!

[Edit]: I also forgot to add that often when the car has a really rough idle at a red light it has a very noticeable shake. It's not to the point of being violent but to the point that you definitely notice it.

For what it's worth - I had the intake boot replaced about a year ago. The angular piece that often cracks was a disaster so they replaced most of that section.
Hope im not thread jacking, but wanted to share some of my info:

I have been experiencing the same problem, minus the stalling, It has not stalled yet, but come close. The interesting part is that all summer the car ran great, even in 110F, now that the temperature has gotten cooler/colder it was an instant change. I have changed intake hoses, cleaned ICV and checked the DISA, and everything is good. Maybe MAF? My bro has a e46 also, does anyone see a problem with swapping MAF's? I have an 01 auto his is an 03 stick. I don't mind spending the money to replace the MAF if it will fix the problem! :-)

On the highway it runs like a champ, but as soon as i sit idle for about 2-3 min thats when it acts up.(but only in cold weather) If i shut down the car, and start back up, the problem is fixed....may not see it come back for a week, or maybe later that day... definitely not as consistent as yours seems to be.

Mine does seem to be related to outside air temperature...

But i feel you pain, I'm stumped and frustrated!

EDIT: Since cold weather is here, could it be vanos?

Last edited by cdrshm; 11-08-2010 at 12:59 PM. Reason: additional info
cdrshm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 10:33 PM   #13
justdru
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: VA
Posts: 45
My Ride: BMW 330ci
I've solved at least some of my problems. Three words: Lower Intake Boot.

I finally caught a break in the weather and pulled out the entire intake assembly. The middle intake section, the one that the MAF butts up with, was completely ripped apart in the corrugated area.

I ordered one from Tischer and gave it a healthy dose of duct and black tape for the time being. I just hope there hasn't been any permanent damage to the engine during the time it's been sucking up dust and God only knows what else.

So, after temporarily closing the gaping wound with tape the car is running fine. There's definitely still a small amount of air leaking through, as there's still a tiny bit of hesitation, but I'm no longer driving down the road lunging back and forth like I can't drive a stick.

Remaining Issue:


For about the first 30 seconds that the car is cranked and I'm in motion the low oil light stays on. After about 30 seconds and/or 50 yards of driving it turns off. This has been going on for months. I change the oil regularly and only use the best products. The intermittent light has persisted through oil changes as well.

Of course I've checked the oil level, both when the engine is warm and cold, and the level is fine. It's also only been about 400 miles since an oil change.

Oil level sensor possibly? Why would that be intermittent, though?
justdru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 10:38 PM   #14
justdru
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: VA
Posts: 45
My Ride: BMW 330ci
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdrshm View Post
Hope im not thread jacking, but wanted to share some of my info:

I have been experiencing the same problem, minus the stalling, It has not stalled yet, but come close. The interesting part is that all summer the car ran great, even in 110F, now that the temperature has gotten cooler/colder it was an instant change. I have changed intake hoses, cleaned ICV and checked the DISA, and everything is good. Maybe MAF? My bro has a e46 also, does anyone see a problem with swapping MAF's? I have an 01 auto his is an 03 stick. I don't mind spending the money to replace the MAF if it will fix the problem! :-)

On the highway it runs like a champ, but as soon as i sit idle for about 2-3 min thats when it acts up.(but only in cold weather) If i shut down the car, and start back up, the problem is fixed....may not see it come back for a week, or maybe later that day... definitely not as consistent as yours seems to be.

Mine does seem to be related to outside air temperature...

But i feel you pain, I'm stumped and frustrated!

EDIT: Since cold weather is here, could it be vanos?
This actually could go either way. Most people would immediately tell you "VANOS" because that's what it sounds like. However, the first time I had vacuum issues it was very similar to your situation. During the Summer of last year my car was noticeably running a little worse but nothing alarming - I literally thought I just needed a tune-up. I put it off until winter hit and the colder it got the worse my car ran. I posted up on here and almost everyone thought VANOS.

In reality, I just had a vacuum leak from a hole in the lowest part of my intake boot. I think a lot of people call that section the L Boot.

Truthfully, I can't imagine why this was the case. Rubber is an odd material, it actually expands when cooled and contracts when heated. At least if the intake tubing is considered rubber in a general sense. You would expect that when it got cold the rubber would expand and let less air in. It seemed to me like it was the exact opposite.

It won't take you more than a couple hours to pull apart your intake assembly and give it a thorough inspection. I suggest you do that first, as it's a simple (and free) way to begin, and move forward based on what you find.
justdru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2010, 08:30 AM   #15
cdrshm
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 103
My Ride: 2001 BMW 330i
Send a message via AIM to cdrshm
Quote:
Originally Posted by justdru View Post
This actually could go either way. Most people would immediately tell you "VANOS" because that's what it sounds like. However, the first time I had vacuum issues it was very similar to your situation. During the Summer of last year my car was noticeably running a little worse but nothing alarming - I literally thought I just needed a tune-up. I put it off until winter hit and the colder it got the worse my car ran. I posted up on here and almost everyone thought VANOS.

In reality, I just had a vacuum leak from a hole in the lowest part of my intake boot. I think a lot of people call that section the L Boot.

Truthfully, I can't imagine why this was the case. Rubber is an odd material, it actually expands when cooled and contracts when heated. At least if the intake tubing is considered rubber in a general sense. You would expect that when it got cold the rubber would expand and let less air in. It seemed to me like it was the exact opposite.

It won't take you more than a couple hours to pull apart your intake assembly and give it a thorough inspection. I suggest you do that first, as it's a simple (and free) way to begin, and move forward based on what you find.
Thanks justdru, I did replace the upper and lower boot, i never could get in place correctly. Not sure if how to explain that.... after i got everything together, i hooked up the stock air box, but couldn't quite get everything to line up correctly, so there is a (for lack of a better word) "kink" in the line. So I did order new uper and lower intake hoses and will give it another shot this weekend.... I have been getting the famous 0174 and 0171 codes... i also plan to check out this: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=773551

if anyone has any additional info let me know, i will update this post after my weekend
cdrshm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2010, 02:56 PM   #16
cdrshm
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 103
My Ride: 2001 BMW 330i
Send a message via AIM to cdrshm
Quote:
Originally Posted by justdru View Post
Remaining Issue:[/B]

For about the first 30 seconds that the car is cranked and I'm in motion the low oil light stays on. After about 30 seconds and/or 50 yards of driving it turns off. This has been going on for months. I change the oil regularly and only use the best products. The intermittent light has persisted through oil changes as well.

Of course I've checked the oil level, both when the engine is warm and cold, and the level is fine. It's also only been about 400 miles since an oil change.

Oil level sensor possibly? Why would that be intermittent, though?
Oh and i would definitally say oil sensor, mine would come on for no reason at all, and oil levels were fine, changed it out and problem solved.

Cdrshm
cdrshm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2010, 04:05 PM   #17
dmax
Registered User
 
dmax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 22,827
My Ride: '99 328i 1.04646 mu
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdrshm View Post
Thanks justdru, I did replace the upper and lower boot, i never could get in place correctly. Not sure if how to explain that.... after i got everything together, i hooked up the stock air box, but couldn't quite get everything to line up correctly, so there is a (for lack of a better word) "kink" in the line. So I did order new uper and lower intake hoses and will give it another shot this weekend.... I have been getting the famous 0174 and 0171 codes... i also plan to check out this: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=773551

if anyone has any additional info let me know, i will update this post after my weekend
The kink likely originates at the TB...that has to be lined up with the notch...and all the way in...as do all the connections...doublecheck the orientation of air box also...but don't know how you could be off with that?

Anyway, you've got a leak no doubt...and don't know that new parts will help...if they're brand new...shouldn't need new ones, I wouldn't think.

Press together at every junction...make sure MAF is on good...needs to be tight.

Handle maf like eggs.

D
__________________


Performing at the Comedy Cove--595 Morris Ave. Springfield NJ reservations 973 376-3840

A recent set

dmax on the radio every Wednesday 7-9 p.m. NYC time. Call in! (661) 449-9340 watsonnwatson.com
dmax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2010, 07:38 PM   #18
justdru
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: VA
Posts: 45
My Ride: BMW 330ci
I would add that you do have to be a little forceful with the pieces to get everything to go together just right. Don't be afraid - everything is fairly forgiving except for the small vacuum hoses and, of course, take extreme caution with the MAF.
justdru is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use