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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 12-04-2010, 06:26 PM   #61
bigjae1976
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Yeah, I am kind of PO'd. My car will probably be down for 2 more weeks. Won't cry over spilled milk. Maybe UUC can express mail the bolts and an alignment tool.

This is not the first bolt from a UUC product that has backed out. One from my BBK bolts backed out even though I properly torqued it. The directions specifically state to loctite the bolts which hold the bracket to the hub and then NOT to loctite the bolts which hold the caliper to the bracket. Luckily I was around the corner from my house. So now I loctite all of the bolts and hope I never have to take off the caliper.

Last edited by bigjae1976; 12-04-2010 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 12-05-2010, 02:26 AM   #62
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Throwout bearing question...should it be snug against the guide shaft or should it have a little bit of looseness to it?

Finally snapped some pics...

Is my flywheel OK? And should I resurface? The groove is very shallow, basically rubbed the blue off. There are a couple of minor gashes around the bolt holes.



Here is the pressure plate...looks OK???



Clutch disc...again, looks OK




You can see where the bolt rubbed the inner part of the pressure plate. Again, VERY minor scoring.



Here is the flywheel before I cleaned it up




Bellhousing


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Old 12-05-2010, 09:27 AM   #63
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Then throw out bearing was snug when tested on my guideshaft.

Any pics of your rear main seal?
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Old 12-05-2010, 10:10 AM   #64
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Nope. There was nothing visually obvious that it was leaking but it is the original seal. Not sure whatelse could have spewed oil everywhere.
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Old 12-05-2010, 10:17 AM   #65
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Does the clutch disc have oil on it? I think that's grounds for dismissal, but maybe the UUC Performance Organic(?) can get away with it because it's impregnated with metal.

I think you'd check for blue hotspots on the flywheel (to decide whether the surface is viable) and, if it's viable, resurface if you're replacing the clutch disc.

My old guide tube/throwout bearing with 80K miles on it had a little looseness to the fit. The new one was more snug. Not critical to replace but I'd say do it if you end up putting a new clutch in.
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Old 12-05-2010, 05:22 PM   #66
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there was oil on the clutch disc and flywheel. The disc looks good. The flywheel looks fine except for the scoring.
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Old 12-05-2010, 09:54 PM   #67
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there was oil on the clutch disc and flywheel. The disc looks good. The flywheel looks fine except for the scoring.
TIS says to get rid of a stock clutch disc if it gets grease on it- if it's a UUC clutch I'd ask UUC what they think. If the flywheel's scoring isn't on the friction surface it shouldn't matter - unless it's uneven enough to affect the balance
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Old 12-06-2010, 01:40 AM   #68
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Can't I just degrease the clutch disc? I've got to call UUC tonight anyway for some bolts.
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Old 12-06-2010, 05:23 AM   #69
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Can't I just degrease the clutch disc? I've got to call UUC tonight anyway for some bolts.
TIS says "Important! Always replace plates fouled by e.g. by oil, cleaning agent."

Seems like rubbing alcohol or something might just degrease and magically evaporate though...


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One of the flywheel bolts was completely backed out. 6 were loose and 1 was tight. The backed out bolt was lodged between the pressure plate and flywheel which scored the inner metal part of the clutch....This is not the first bolt from a UUC product that has backed out...
btw I'd blame this one on harmonics, rather than UUC
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:03 AM   #70
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I've done an automatic transmission on jackstands =) it was quite a military press to say the least!

I can't believe 6 bolts were loose and one backed out! This is the reason why I'm so hesitant to even have someone at the stealership work on my car. I just believe no cares about your car more than you do. One of my good friends works at an Audi dealership and you'd be surprised at some of the morons they let work at a dealer. Just like when people just 'toe and go' when giving you an alignment because a full alignment takes too long.

Did you find out if it was the Rear main seal leaking oil?
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:04 AM   #71
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TIS says "Important! Always replace plates fouled by e.g. by oil, cleaning agent."

Seems like rubbing alcohol or something might just degrease and magically evaporate though...




btw I'd blame this one on harmonics, rather than UUC
Wouldn't some thread locker have prevented the bolts from backing out?
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:27 AM   #72
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Did you find out if it was the Rear main seal leaking oil?
I'm pretty sure the oil came through the hole left by the escaped bolt.

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Wouldn't some thread locker have prevented the bolts from backing out?
One of the signs of a crank harmonic issue is flywheel bolts backing out - loctite or no. It's mentioned here: http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampers/101/index.htm
[EDIT: although I think it's only really a concern, flywheelboltwise, in extreme circumstances: worn out/inadequate harmonic damper used in a high power & sustained 6K+ rpm situation e.g. tracking/racing]
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:31 AM   #73
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Just got off the phone from Rob at UUC....learned a couple of things.

1. UUC flywheels for 330ci 6 speeds use the same OEM bolts as listed on Real OEM.

2. Bought a new clutch disk, oil apparently ruins the friction surface.

3. MUST loctite the bolts. My shop did not since there was no white reside at the end of the bolts.

4. If you have a 6sp alignment tool. KEEP IT! Apparently UUC is out of stock and these are hard to find. You can use a shifter to align everything...weird!
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:56 AM   #74
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4. If you have a 6sp alignment tool. KEEP IT! Apparently UUC is out of stock and these are hard to find. You can use a shifter to align everything...weird!
Yeah I ran into the same thing - I used the Lisle 61750 instead
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Old 12-06-2010, 11:05 AM   #75
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link???
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Old 12-06-2010, 11:06 AM   #76
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link???
www.google.com
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Old 12-06-2010, 11:10 AM   #77
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Just got off the phone from Rob at UUC....learned a couple of things.
How do you find the UUC 6 speed flywheel and Performance organic clutch (apart from this issue .)

Worthwhile upgrade and any downsides? (chatter) - not found any reviews on the net for it yet.

Thanks
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:12 PM   #78
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How do you find the UUC 6 speed flywheel and Performance organic clutch (apart from this issue .)

Worthwhile upgrade and any downsides? (chatter) - not found any reviews on the net for it yet.

Thanks
It is a worthwhile upgrade. Can't tell if there is chatter, I think there is. I had vorshlag red engine mounts installed at the same as the clutch. So its hard to tell if its increase NVH or gear chatter.

The clutch is more on/off than OEM. It took me awhile to get used to it since I drove 89k miles on the OEM clutch. You can definitely notice a much more immediate throttle response.

Make sure you use loctite
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Old 12-07-2010, 05:02 AM   #79
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I just went through a lot of the same that you did, lightweight fw from bimmerworld, exploded the slave twice, did the clutch job entirely twice now I have a large moan on deceleration around 4k that is really troubling me like perhaps the FW bolts are coming out. Or is it driveline related???

Doing a clutch twice and facing having to do it a third time is really getting old.
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Old 12-07-2010, 05:09 AM   #80
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I just went through a lot of the same that you did, lightweight fw from bimmerworld, exploded the slave twice, did the clutch job entirely twice now I have a large moan on deceleration around 4k that is really troubling me like perhaps the FW bolts are coming out. Or is it driveline related???

Doing a clutch twice and facing having to do it a third time is really getting old.
Which is the exact reason why I went ahead and ordered a new disc. Those BMW tuners really know how to get you!
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